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Old 02-05-2013, 08:03 AM   #16
Gregster
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuber View Post
...Put the bike on the centerstand, start it, 2nd gear idle, brush off all the dirt and lube it with the gear oil....
That's dangerous advice there friend. I've got 30 years of chain experience myself and have heard some horror stories about guys getting their fingers sucked in with the bike idling. Bad idea in my opinion. I always lube by rotating the back wheel by hand with the bike shut off and in neutral.

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Old 02-05-2013, 08:14 AM   #17
Motomedic
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I'm with Gregster on the danger factor in using the engine power to rotate your chain, but I'll go a step further and say that's not only dangerous but incredibly stupid.

Too many people have lost digits to chains. Engine off in neutral is the only way.

Having said that, I'll also say that on my 6mo/25k mile odyssey around the States, I carried a small can of PJ1 black label, and used quality chains/sprockets. My lubing schedule was/is sporadic, from every day in the sandy stuff to almost never. I typically average around 15k miles on a chain on the 950.
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Old 02-05-2013, 09:07 AM   #18
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I went to school with a guy named Kenny K., he had a KZ200. It was up on the centerstand, idling in gear while he cleaned the chain with a rag. A KZ200 has no torque. His fingers stalled the engine. It took the fire department to get him out. This was in 78 or so. I don't recall if he lost fingers, or if they were just pointed in different directions after he did it. Kenny, are you reading this?

Back to chain durability and life. I've found that if you use the highest quality chain, you will have no issues. And to me, the highest quality (and most expensive) chain is the DID ZVM. I use them exclusively, my KTM has the nickel plated one, my Ducati has the gold one. And a steel, or steel over aluminum sprocket. And I use factory made or sold fronts. No issues. The Ducati went 20,000 plus miles, I happened to have a spare set so I replaced them. The KTM chain was getting kind of hinky at 10,000, I put the nickel DID on just for peace of mind.

I use WD40 to clean them off, some old wives tales about WD eating the orings seems to be false, I've never had a problem. What will kill that chain is dirt grinding things up. I'd suggest carrying WD and cleaning that sucker whenever it gets coated with grit. What else can you do? Don't use pressure washers on them, it will force water past the orings. Keep it as clean as you can, you should be good to go. As long as your points and Amal carburetors don't give you issues (inside joke, sort of.).
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Old 02-05-2013, 05:37 PM   #19
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And my reply was overlooked by everyone? No running bikes...
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:23 AM   #20
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That's good advice if you can't keep your fingers out of the moving parts.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:48 PM   #21
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Question

There is a sand specific spray available,but I do not know how good it is? Putoline I think
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:20 PM   #22
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I am building our mk2 extending chain guard for our SE as the factory guard is quite short, the tire throws everything straight down on the chain and forward to the engine, our mk1 guard was made of much shorter oil container, just today I located a bigger one which will be the better protector.

Rather hoping that stopping firing at lease the heavier clumps on to the chain may increase its life and reduce the likelihood of a countershaft seal failure too.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:21 AM   #23
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Good morning gents

To assist with keeping 1, heavier crap off the chain and 2, keep Mayas bum a bit cleaner from shit flicking off the chain I built a couple of covers.

Not quite BDCW or CJ's coul but it will hope slow stuff down a bit, the donor was a 20 L oil drum.

The donor



The front guard





In place, it bolts through the top guide wheel at the front and front the subframe bolts at the rear so does not swing with the wheel



The rear, will hopefully drop the amount of greasy clumps that seem to fire vertically onto the bottom of the top box, I got covered the other day when I took the top box off and spend a hour cleaning it with dish detergent



Pics aren't that great but it is hard to make this stuff look coul
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:40 AM   #24
pfdskipper
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Seems a bit much??

Your chain appears to be a bit on the messy end of the scale?? Are you running the clip style master-link for a specific reason??

Im no chain pro, just inquiring minds would like to know.
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Old 02-10-2013, 06:59 AM   #25
Two Moto Kiwis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfdskipper View Post
Your chain appears to be a bit on the messy end of the scale?? Are you running the clip style master-link for a specific reason??

Im no chain pro, just inquiring minds would like to know.
We had it lightly oiled and have been doing a number of backroads with lite powder bulldust here in Mexico, they are all clean again now.

We also found some sticky clumpy stuff that was half the reason for the extra cover, it was like snowball kinda stuff that grew.

Re the clip, we had to cut the chain down as the previous owner was running 16/52 so the chain was mile too long, not having the crimping gera we settled for teh clip, we have three spares.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:18 AM   #26
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Profi Drylube. http://www.profi-products.de/en/down...dl_english.pdf

Used it for several years and I think it is the best chain lube for offroad and dirt.
The dust doesn't stick and it is very easy to clean afterwards, and no mess.

T
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:28 PM   #27
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I use good hi tech lube after washing to keep the X rings happy but only after squirting the dirt off with water from the hose at household pressure.
when the Xrings are happy , the pins are happy

I avoid wd40 or simple green which could penetrate the x rings. Motor oil is going to do nothing but attract grit and work as cutting oil to speed wear but would be OK on a KLR or XRr . lubing a dirty X ring chain is just asking for premature wear

I vote for lube that goes on thin and coagulates thick to keep the X-rings happy but only after cleaning

when the sprocket starts to wear it s time to replace with a DID zvmx and stock sprockets
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:47 PM   #28
Two Moto Kiwis
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All good advice when you have a fixed abode, when on the road and in the likes of Mexico etc getting what you can to lube is good, cleaning and carrying cleaning stuff etc not so easy.

We are lucky enough to be at places now and then to clean etc but everything is done with minimal space etc.

Hopefully with the wheel not throwing stuff straight on the chain will help.
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