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Old 01-29-2015, 10:34 AM   #1
hotrdd OP
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How do I know if the valves should be done?

I need some advice on how far to take the 950 S maintenance. Since Iím up in Canada and everything is way more expensive Iím actually looking at getting all of my bits and pieces States side and then coming home to do all of the work. Right now we are still in the middle of winter so I have a few months to get the 950 sorted before the spring.

Here are some issues that I had with the bike the first year.
- Battery kept draining (So I threw in a new AGM battery)
- Sucker drinks a lot of fuel. Iím getting about 150 miles out of a tank before Iím searching for a gas station
- The bike keeps overheating and seeing as itís Alberta it hardly get into the 80Fís here. I tried to burp and flush the system at the end of the season but havenít got enough in town miles on it to see if itís going to start happening again. On the HWY it was always fine. Just sitting in traffic sucked.
- Both front and rear shocks could be reworked Ė but thatís out of my budget
- The clutch is always grinding when I go into first and just doesnít feel right. Not sure what I need to do here.

Work
- I plan on getting some bar risers, heated grips a new K&N air filter and Scottís oil filter. What else?
- How do I know if the valves should be done?
- While I have the oil and all of the coolant out of the bike what else should I check?
- Any other ďTo doĒ items I should throw on the list?
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Old 01-29-2015, 10:59 AM   #2
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I'm not a fan of either of those filters for the KTM. The paper filter is your best indicator of water pump seal failure. I have a K&N filters on my street bikes and they are okay but I'm not convinced they are appropriate for dual sport machines. If you have the fluids drained Checking valves isn't that bad. Pull the tanks, pull the carbs, lock the engine (I have CJDesigns tool for it) and see if they are in spec. A good shim kit is a couple hundred bucks and is nice to have around.
For risers I went with the Rox Risers and a CJDESIGNS cover plate. I have the KTM factory heated grips and they seem to work pretty damned good. Just my .02

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Old 01-29-2015, 11:22 AM   #3
hotrdd OP
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THANKS. Iím pretty good with my hands and have all the tools in my shop but for some reason the clutch and valves on the KTM or scaring me. I think itís just a case of doing them once and getting familiar with the process. I do the valves on my old bikes all the time. Now the clutch thatís a different issue. Not sure what is wrong there or what Iím looking for.
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Old 01-29-2015, 11:38 AM   #4
Lupin 3rd
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Currently working on mine. The hardest part about the valves is actually the amount of work necessary to get to them: tanks off, airbox off, sparkplugs out, and (possibly) radiator off.

Once that's done it's just like every other bike: rear cylinder at TDC, check clearances, turn engine for front cylinder at TDC, check clearances.
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Old 01-29-2015, 12:59 PM   #5
fast4d
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that's why I rid of the airbox the first chance I get. rottweiler or equiv foam type filter.

as for running hot you should get a thermo switch to switch on fans at 190F. you can get one for $25.

you also need to jack the front up high to do a proper cooling system bleeding.
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Old 01-29-2015, 03:20 PM   #6
Qwik
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Yup, proper burping requires about three stairs up
And I love my Rottweiler filter system.
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Old 01-29-2015, 03:40 PM   #7
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Cool Running:
I switched to Engine Ice, added a second fan and change the fan switch to the lower temperature switch. No more lighting up all the bars in LA traffic.
Burping is accomplished by removing the rear wheel when re-filling the radiator and rocking the bike down onto the swingarm. Plenty of lift, and by strapping the centerstand to the front so it can't fold it is stable. I think I also had the stand on 2x4's. Simple one man operation.

I went with the stock paper filter and a pre-filter. The pre-filter keeps the paper filter cleaner longer. Sure it's a bit more stuff to pull loose to get to the valves but that isn't that bad.
I prefer paper oil filters too. Just my preference.

Clutch:
Slave replaced with the Oberon or what ever it's called. Careful bleeding and you have a clutch that shifts.
That clutch orfice thing needs to be cleaned once in a while too. I have not done mine yet. Next service though.
My 990 running the Akro map and commuting on the freeway here at pretty high speeds most of the time gets me to around 180 miles before the light comes on. The light usually has about a gallon and a bit left. I get about 40 mpg.
the key word there is "about". Sometimes it is less and sometimes it is slightly more. I have ridden 240+ miles on a tank by the odometer. I put in 5.3 gallons on the centerstand. So it was pretty close to pushing. Once I have a RotoPax, I'll run it to sputter and know for sure.

The other thing to do is that waterpump shaft and seal and such I hear.
Pyndon has a thread that covers everything there is about a 950. I'd say take a day and read that. Time well spent.

Check the valves, then you have established your baseline for your maintenance schedule.
Loosening the radiator and pushing it forward a bit helps up front. There is a ton of stuff to take off, but at least it is worth the trouble.
Pyndon does through his bike and documents it all. It is very complete.

I'd do the suspension.
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:29 AM   #8
hotrdd OP
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Guess I forgot to mention that this is a 2005 KTM 950 S.
It looks like maybe I should add the water pump to my list as well if I am going to be in there anyway doing all of the other stuff. Unfortunately Iím on a limited budget when it comes to the bikes so some of the other items like suspension are going to have to wait.
As far as the overheating goes I have already put in a double fan and a new temperature switch and a bypass for then doesnít work. My next step will be to look at the water pump and then do a full burp on the system etc.
On my other older bikes the clutch is lubricated by the engine oil. Is that the same case for the KTM 950? I mean once I drain the engine oil is the clutch also drained?
Are there any PDF repair manuals around the site?
Lastly is anyone running heated grips and heated vest on a standard 2005 950 without issues? Will the charging system handle that?
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:45 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by hotrdd View Post
Guess I forgot to mention that this is a 2005 KTM 950 S.
It looks like maybe I should add the water pump to my list as well if I am going to be in there anyway doing all of the other stuff. Unfortunately Iím on a limited budget when it comes to the bikes so some of the other items like suspension are going to have to wait.
As far as the overheating goes I have already put in a double fan and a new temperature switch and a bypass for then doesnít work. My next step will be to look at the water pump and then do a full burp on the system etc.
On my other older bikes the clutch is lubricated by the engine oil. Is that the same case for the KTM 950? I mean once I drain the engine oil is the clutch also drained?
Are there any PDF repair manuals around the site?
Lastly is anyone running heated grips and heated vest on a standard 2005 950 without issues? Will the charging system handle that?
Burp the system and see if that solves your issue first. Then worry about the other stuff. And yes the engine and clutch share oil.
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:00 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Qwik View Post
Burp the system and see if that solves your issue first.
+1 Getting all the air out can be a little tricky. FWIW, removing the rear wheel and setting the bike on the swing arm to burp the system did not work well for me when I did a wp change in a campground. Gotta get that wheel at least a couple of feet off the deck.
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:02 AM   #11
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I literally rode the bike up to some stairs and stopped with the back wheel at street level and the front wheel five or six stairs up. Worked great (handrail helped me steady the bike when stopped)
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:07 AM   #12
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I literally rode the bike up to some stairs and stopped with the back wheel at street level and the front wheel five or six stairs up. Worked great (handrail helped me steady the bike when stopped)
Good solution.
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Old 01-30-2015, 10:43 AM   #13
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or fill it up normally, install cap, go for a ride and pop some wheelies, and refill to top of radiator after the ride:))
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:54 PM   #14
Buuurrrt
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You got it....

I am doing my valves now in my 950 SE and like an inmate said. It is mostly labor. Go to the 950 wisdom page and you will be walked right through all the steps. I found that my intake valves were all way out. I don't think they had ever been done, even thought the previous owner said the had. Guy was a snake. I had .235 shims in and had to go to the .215 shims. No big deal. The exhaust valves were ok....

As far as your heating issue. I had this problem and went through the whole system. It ended up being the thermostat. I guess it wasn't opening all the way and restricting coolant flow. Cheap fix and also easy to do. I think they go out after a few years. I will replace that first anytime I start to have heat issues.

Scotts oil filter.
I like the fact I have a scotts filter. The water pump seal presented itself on a ride and I figured it out and was able to finish the ride. A buddy had it happen with a paper filter and he ended up having to remove the filter all together just to get the bike home. thats always an option I guess.

This is all just my opinion. I am not the best wrench in the hood.
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:32 AM   #15
gefr
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Originally Posted by Buuurrrt View Post
I am doing my valves now in my 950 SE and like an inmate said. It is mostly labor. Go to the 950 wisdom page and you will be walked right through all the steps. I found that my intake valves were all way out. I don't think they had ever been done, even thought the previous owner said the had. Guy was a snake. I had .235 shims in and had to go to the .215 shims. No big deal. The exhaust valves were ok....
A good idea is replacing all M8 valve bridge screws that are quoted 18Nm torque, the bolts with the larger head. They are easily damaged at the alen recess.
Cheers.
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