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Old 07-04-2005, 06:15 PM   #46
das Rider
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Keep this in mind

If you go to the shop to fabricate a new set of pegs you don't have to move the peg closer to the shifter to lower it. The foot peg mount flanges are set at an angle to allow the foot peg to tilt up when the bike goes down in motion. If you just make a set of lower pegs that are longer, they will move closer to the shifter. This must be what most after market manufacturers are doing.

It doesn't have to be like that. Here is how to make a custom set of pegs for your size "fill-in-the-blank" boots. Remove the stock peg. Hold your MX boot up to the bike and put it where it needs to be to comfortably reach the shifter. Now measure or mark the location of the arch of the boot, if that is where you want to stand.

It will be lower and farther BACKWARDS from the stock position. Now make a set of pegs that fit in the stock mounts, still in between the OEM flanges, BUT make the bracket for the new peg transition to where the new foot platform needs to be.

I could draw what this new peg would look like. And, it would still be a simple two pieces of bent steel welded together like the OEM foot peg. It would still pivot like OEM in a fall. And, the foot platform could be made larger than OEM. Really not a hard job, certainly not rocket science.
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Old 07-04-2005, 06:57 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by das Rider
If you go to the shop to fabricate a new set of pegs you don't have to move the peg closer to the shifter to lower it. The foot peg mount flanges are set at an angle to allow the foot peg to tilt up when the bike goes down in motion. If you just make a set of lower pegs that are longer, they will move closer to the shifter. This must be what most after market manufacturers are doing.

It doesn't have to be like that. Here is how to make a custom set of pegs for your size "fill-in-the-blank" boots. Remove the stock peg. Hold your MX boot up to the bike and put it where it needs to be to comfortably reach the shifter. Now measure or mark the location of the arch of the boot, if that is where you want to stand.

It will be lower and farther BACKWARDS from the stock position. Now make a set of pegs that fit in the stock mounts, still in between the OEM flanges, BUT make the bracket for the new peg transition to where the new foot platform needs to be.

I could draw what this new peg would look like. And, it would still be a simple two pieces of bent steel welded together like the OEM foot peg. It would still pivot like OEM in a fall. And, the foot platform could be made larger than OEM. Really not a hard job, certainly not rocket science.
I am waiting for Tony to get back to me on a quote. I invision what you are saying.
It will be a 'fab" job or the fastway pegs.

Thanks for all the help.

Stosh
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Old 07-04-2005, 07:17 PM   #48
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Old 07-04-2005, 07:22 PM   #49
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another option

Use passenger pegs. Simple bolt to replace cotter pin, and a small bolt drilled throughpeg to act as a stop. Very clean look, and they lowered the effective peg height.





I now run FastWays, in the lower position, ordered from Ricardo rickybars@gmail.com
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Old 07-04-2005, 07:51 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew
Use passenger pegs. Simple bolt to replace cotter pin, and a small bolt drilled throughpeg to act as a stop. Very clean look, and they lowered the effective peg height.





I now run FastWays, in the lower position, ordered from Ricardo rickybars@gmail.com
Another great idea. How much lower?

Thanks for the help
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Old 07-05-2005, 09:14 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by das Rider
If you go to the shop to fabricate a new set of pegs you don't have to move the peg closer to the shifter to lower it. The foot peg mount flanges are set at an angle to allow the foot peg to tilt up when the bike goes down in motion. If you just make a set of lower pegs that are longer, they will move closer to the shifter. This must be what most after market manufacturers are doing.

It doesn't have to be like that. Here is how to make a custom set of pegs for your size "fill-in-the-blank" boots. Remove the stock peg. Hold your MX boot up to the bike and put it where it needs to be to comfortably reach the shifter. Now measure or mark the location of the arch of the boot, if that is where you want to stand.

It will be lower and farther BACKWARDS from the stock position. Now make a set of pegs that fit in the stock mounts, still in between the OEM flanges, BUT make the bracket for the new peg transition to where the new foot platform needs to be.

I could draw what this new peg would look like. And, it would still be a simple two pieces of bent steel welded together like the OEM foot peg. It would still pivot like OEM in a fall. And, the foot platform could be made larger than OEM. Really not a hard job, certainly not rocket science.
OK - this is the best route so far as I don't think the fastways will fit the touratech kit on the bike ( I could be wrong as usual ). A Picture would be great if you have time.

Thanks
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Old 07-05-2005, 11:38 PM   #52
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How best to send a graphic to you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stosh23
OK - this is the best route so far as I don't think the fastways will fit the touratech kit on the bike ( I could be wrong as usual ). A Picture would be great if you have time.

Thanks
OK, I went back out to my bike to look it over and came up with a super fast and easy fix that only requires making ONE part and it's a FLAT piece of steel. I have a 75k .pdf file to send you, made in Photoshop CS, if that matters. How should I get it to you? I can't get the graphic to show up here, but the link works, on my sysytem anyway.

You can cut the original pegs in two right between the foot platform and the mounting bracket. Then weld the two haves back together on an OFFSET plate. The plate can both drop and set the foot platform back any amount you want. It's a simple cut and weld opperation. The OFFSET plate is a simple shape, easy to cut and grind, I'd suggest 1/8"+ steel. After welding it could be hardened by using the oil quenching method.

You could also make a whole new set of pegs from scratch, but they would look basically the same and take a lot more time to build.

http://www.laceyphoto.com/BMWfootpegs.pdf
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Old 07-06-2005, 08:19 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by das Rider
OK, I went back out to my bike to look it over and came up with a super fast and easy fix that only requires making ONE part and it's a FLAT piece of steel. I have a 75k .pdf file to send you, made in Photoshop CS, if that matters. How should I get it to you? I can't get the graphic to show up here, but the link works, on my sysytem anyway.

You can cut the original pegs in two right between the foot platform and the mounting bracket. Then weld the two haves back together on an OFFSET plate. The plate can both drop and set the foot platform back any amount you want. It's a simple cut and weld opperation. The OFFSET plate is a simple shape, easy to cut and grind, I'd suggest 1/8"+ steel. After welding it could be hardened by using the oil quenching method.

You could also make a whole new set of pegs from scratch, but they would look basically the same and take a lot more time to build.

http://www.laceyphoto.com/BMWfootpegs.pdf
Absolutely excellent.

Thank you so much.
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Old 07-06-2005, 11:34 AM   #54
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boots

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stosh23
Alright,
I need to either lower the pegs or extend the shift lever to allow my M/X boots to fit under the lever.


Stosh
I just got some MX boots for use with my R1150GS Adventure. Had the same problem (shifter). I went on a ride this weekend with the boots and discovered if you use the little metal piece on the boots' sole, it shifts just fine. Took me a long time come to this solution, but it works fine. Try it. Shift with the sole, not the toe as you do normally. Good luck. We are not the only people to have this problem.
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Old 07-06-2005, 11:39 AM   #55
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solutions

seems some of these solutions (except mine, of course) would make the bike unridable without the MX boots. Is that a desirable solution. Just a thought. I had the same thoughts on mine. I like my solution better.
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Old 07-06-2005, 12:49 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the Luz
seems some of these solutions (except mine, of course) would make the bike unridable without the MX boots. Is that a desirable solution. Just a thought. I had the same thoughts on mine. I like my solution better.
You know Luz - No - I would like a solution for both road boots and M/X boots. I will try you method - and maybe a combinations of some of the other ideas. Seems moving the pegs for the passenger mounts gives a good fell for both.

Thanks for the help.

Stosh
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Old 07-06-2005, 03:15 PM   #57
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other people's solution

With these boots, it's impossible to ride the way we normally do (toe under shift lever).

I wonder how other people solve this problem? They can't always modify the shift lever.
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Old 07-06-2005, 03:32 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the Luz
I just got some MX boots for use with my R1150GS Adventure. Had the same problem (shifter). I went on a ride this weekend with the boots and discovered if you use the little metal piece on the boots' sole, it shifts just fine. Took me a long time come to this solution, but it works fine. Try it. Shift with the sole, not the toe as you do normally. Good luck. We are not the only people to have this problem.

That's what I do, only without the metal part. Although I think I'll try that, good idea.

I wnted to "train" my foot to shift with those big mamma boots so I wouldn't alter the otherwise ideal shifter peg set-up for my leather street boots.
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Old 07-06-2005, 05:50 PM   #59
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Lacey got your sketch, good call. Stosh, is this good for you? Quick and simple.
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Old 07-06-2005, 06:30 PM   #60
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Lacey got your sketch, good call. Stosh, is this good for you? Quick and simple.
It works - When can you cut and weld???
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