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Old 02-22-2013, 12:02 PM   #16
wsmc831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
Yesterday I cleaned my chain with kerosene and a toothbrush. Once I went over it a couple times I wiped it off with a rag, and then brushed it with motor oil, again wiping off the excess. I plan on brushing it with oil once a week depending on how wet it appears, or rigging up a manual luber I can use while riding before I drop the big bucks on an auto luber. The problem is that there are still some tight links. will the motor oil eventually loosen these up? Should I be using a different oil?

Again, thanks for all the input and looking for any further suggestions.

-Alex


Standard motor oil won't stick around for long. I guess I'm set in my ways, I clean my chains occasionally, spray on some Maxima chain wax that I've been using since about 94, and forget it. If I'm on a 2-4k mile trip, I'll give it a spray every other day or so, but auto oiler? Messy. When a chain gets tight spots, I replace it. Seems simple enough.
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:21 PM   #17
el queso
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+ 2 or 3 for Bel Ray chain lube. When it dries it leaves a white waxy residue that sand and dirt does not stick to.

Not sure what kind of bike you ride, but I'm partial to Dirt Tricks Ironman sprockets. The look spindly, but they are strong. Pair them up with a high quality chain (I guess z-ring is the new x-ring) and you're good to go.

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Old 02-22-2013, 01:21 PM   #18
nnamssorxela OP
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Thanks again guys. My main concern was if the tight links meant time for a new chain as I've heard mixed opinions. The last thing I want is for one of those links to get too brittle and bust.

I may still toy with an auto oiler. I like fact that it "flushes" any dirt off, but I'll see. For some reason I've never trusted the wax style lubes. Might try some bar and chain oil (chainsaw).
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:15 PM   #19
CycleDoc59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wsmc831 View Post
Standard motor oil won't stick around for long. I guess I'm set in my ways, I clean my chains occasionally, spray on some Maxima chain wax that I've been using since about 94, and forget it. If I'm on a 2-4k mile trip, I'll give it a spray every other day or so, but auto oiler? Messy. When a chain gets tight spots, I replace it. Seems simple enough.
WSCM831 nails it. Pretty much all you need in one short paragraph.
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:48 PM   #20
bradluke0
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Hi all ! After owning more than 25 bikes since the early 70's and spending a lot of time on chains I have come to 1 conclusion . I don't clean my chains anymore , I use a dry lube . It sprays on wet and completely dries , doesn't collect dirt so there is no grinding paste or black residue on the bike or sprockets . Sounds like this goes against the grain but I have other things to do than mess around cleaning and lubing .
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Old 02-22-2013, 03:10 PM   #21
thorning
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I ride a BMW F650 classic with 13500 miles. It is a year 2000 model and I ride only on road. The chain is original and I lube it well with ATF about every 500 miles. The chain has a couple of tight spots but it is still in usable condition. If you want a chain to last very long you will need to use a lube that does not hold dirt. even the best lubes will retain some dirt however. The rear sprocket of this model F650 is reversible and I turn it about every 2500 miles. The front cannot be reversed however. A chain in a dirty environment will not last very long no matter what you lube it with and you should not expect it to last very long. The front (smaller) sprocket is going to wear out faster so watch this one for excess wear.
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:06 PM   #22
Unstable Rider
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These guys (linky below) have "affordable" chains and chains+sprocket sets.

Just a thought. I get gold X ring chains +front and rear sprocket kits for the KLR for like $89.00

I order some extra master links and about twice a season I take the chain off and give it a decent scrub in a bath of kerosine. Once it no longer "blackens" my kero bath, I figure its clean. I hang it on fence to drip dry, reinstall and relube. But I use new master links when I do that. It does get some less fussy cleanings in between, but it seems to enjoy the major dunk, rinse and repeat procedure.

Related, it's tough to beat WD40 for cleaning chain lube mess off swing arms and stuff. Works great, price is right. I also keep some kerosine in a refillable spray bottle. Handy!

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:15 PM   #23
Flashmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thorning View Post
I ride a BMW F650 classic with 13500 miles. It is a year 2000 model and I ride only on road. The chain is original and I lube it well with ATF about every 500 miles. The chain has a couple of tight spots but it is still in usable condition. If you want a chain to last very long you will need to use a lube that does not hold dirt. even the best lubes will retain some dirt however. The rear sprocket of this model F650 is reversible and I turn it about every 2500 miles. The front cannot be reversed however. A chain in a dirty environment will not last very long no matter what you lube it with and you should not expect it to last very long. The front (smaller) sprocket is going to wear out faster so watch this one for excess wear.
No offense intended (and I truly mean that)...but,...you average 1038 miles per year and have experience enough on chain maintenance? That equates to 4 chain lubes per year. That's like 43 miles per week during a 6 month riding season. I do respect you for reversing your sprocket, though I think you do it too often.

I prefer the dry lubricants, goes on wet, and dries to a film. We all used to use DuPont Multi-use Dry...until over a year ago when they changed the formula. I changed to the DuPont Chain Saver, it's as close as you can get to what the original Multi-use formula once was. I don't ever clean a chain anymore. Spray on chain saver, run the wet chain through a rag (the solvent softens up the old layer) so old wax and dirt come off the chain...then spray on another coat and let it dry. I have not cleaned my last 3 chains (one per year) at about 20K miles each.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:35 PM   #24
ChromeSux
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I read this and have been doing it his way, so far so good, chain/sprockets have went 11,000 miles and still look great, i use the bike quite often off road too.
Go ahead guys and flame on, i suspect my chain and sprockets will go another 11,000 miles.

http://www.watt-man.com/uploads/WD40experiment.pdf
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:48 AM   #25
PeterW
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Just cleaning and chain lube about 20,000km.

A chain oiler loaded with ATF, around 60,000.

One of the other posters hit it, dirt and sticky lubes == grinding paste and will get the chain eventually. You do want something that will let grit fling off and ATF seems to be right in the sweet spot there.

Pete
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:01 AM   #26
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I'm trying out some sort of new Motul pasty white stuff. So far so good. Its weird that you spread it on the chain instead of spreading it. Less messy in the long run. I picked it up at the BMW dealer a while back when I was getting some parts for an R11RT that I have since sold. Of course it was shaft drive & the lube was for my Vee chain..
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:24 AM   #27
KingOfFleece
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www.webbikeworld.com Look under chains. All you'll ever need.
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Old 02-23-2013, 04:32 AM   #28
Laconic
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Originally Posted by Flashmo View Post
We all used to use DuPont Multi-use Dry...until over a year ago when they changed the formula.
You can still buy that stuff at the Lowe's where I live, I don't know if it's still in production or they just haven't run through their inventory. I keep the little squeeze bottles to take on trips and use the aerosol at home.

I clean my chain with diesel fuel and a brush maybe three times a year. I use the dry lube every 300 to 500 miles and make sure to keep plenty of slack in the chain (about a 1/2" more than the Wee owner's manual recommends). Riding 12-15k a year.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:20 PM   #29
Flashmo
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Originally Posted by Laconic View Post
You can still buy that stuff at the Lowe's where I live, I don't know if it's still in production or they just haven't run through their inventory. I keep the little squeeze bottles to take on trips and use the aerosol at home.

I clean my chain with diesel fuel and a brush maybe three times a year. I use the dry lube every 300 to 500 miles and make sure to keep plenty of slack in the chain (about a 1/2" more than the Wee owner's manual recommends). Riding 12-15k a year.
It's not the same stuff, sorry. The old stuff was labeled "dry, wax lubricant" on the front of every label. DuPont says the new formula is "semi-dry" though it is not on the label. It's decent, but not as good as it was.

Read through all this for more details.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=795627
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Old 02-24-2013, 04:01 AM   #30
Laconic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flashmo View Post
It's not the same stuff, sorry. The old stuff was labeled "dry, wax lubricant" on the front of every label. DuPont says the new formula is "semi-dry" though it is not on the label. It's decent, but not as good as it was.

Read through all this for more details.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=795627
You're right. I just went and looked at my stock; some of it is the old and some of it is the new but the labels appear the same at a glance.

I noticed the "new-old" formulation in the orange bottles is $1 more than it used to be.
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