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Old 02-25-2013, 01:40 PM   #16
KungPaoDog
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Latex gloves usually hold up pretty well to acetone, ethanol, OK but not great to MEK, whereas Nitrile are pretty good with most petroleum based stuff, especially oil and grease. DON'T TAKE MY WORD FOR ANY OF THAT. Get hurt on your own experiments, and other disclaimer stuff.

I still use Latex for home wrenching, since I try not to go elbow deep in grease, and an oil change shouldn't get enough oil on your hands to wreck latex gloves instantly.

Go cheap. You will tear through any disposable glove with something sharp, and they all get thrown away as soon as they are removed.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:39 PM   #17
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^^^ I dipped some "good brand" Latex and Nitrile into Acetone and both turned to mush within minutes.
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:22 PM   #18
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Stolen from here....


http://www.aps.anl.gov/Safety_and_Tr...selection.html

also contains chemical listing with glove type recommendation.

Yes nitrile is poor against acetone.






Glove Chart

TypeAdvantagesDisadvantagesUse Against
Natural rubberLow cost, good physical properties, dexterity Poor vs. oils, greases, organics. Frequently imported; may be poor quality Bases, alcohols, dilute water solutions; fair vs. aldehydes, ketones.
Natural rubber blends Low cost, dexterity, better chemical resistance than natural rubber vs. some chemicals Physical properties frequently inferior to natural rubber Same as natural rubber
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) Low cost, very good physical properties, medium cost, medium chemical resistance Plasticizers can be stripped; frequently imported may be poor quality Strong acids and bases, salts, other water solutions, alcohols
Neoprene Medium cost, medium chemical resistance, medium physical properties NA Oxidizing acids, anilines, phenol, glycol ethers
Nitrile Low cost, excellent physical properties, dexterity Poor vs. benzene, methylene chloride, trichloroethylene, many ketones Oils, greases, aliphatic chemicals, xylene, perchloroethylene, trichloroethane; fair vs. toluene
Butyl Speciality glove, polar organics Expensive, poor vs. hydrocarbons, chlorinated solvents Glycol ethers, ketones, esters
Polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) Specialty glove, resists a very broad range of organics, good physical properties Very expensive, water sensitive, poor vs. light alcohols Aliphatics, aromatics, chlorinated solvents, ketones (except acetone), esters, ethers
Fluoro- elastomer (Viton) ™ *Specialty glove, organic solvents Extremely expensive, poor physical properties, poor vs. some ketones, esters, amines Aromatics, chlorinated solvents, also aliphatics and alcohols
Norfoil (Silver Shield) Excellent chemical resistance Poor fit, easily punctures, poor grip, stiff Use for Hazmat work
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gsweave screwed with this post 02-25-2013 at 06:32 PM
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:34 PM   #19
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Glove Type and Chemical Use

*Limited service VG= Very Good G= Good F=FairP=Poor (not recommended)
ChemicalNeopreneNatural Latex
or Rubber
ButylNitrile Latex
*Acetaldehyde VG G VG G
Acetic acid VG VG VG VG
*Acetone G VG VG P
Ammonium hydroxide VG VG VG VG
*Amyl acetate F P F P
Aniline G F F P
*Benzaldehyde F F G G
*Benzene F F F P
Butyl acetate G F F P
Butyl alcohol VG VG VG VG
Carbon disulfide F F F F
*Carbon tetrachloride F P P G
Castor oil F P F VG
*Chlorobenzene F P F P
*Chloroform G P P P
Chloronaphthalene F P F F
Chromic Acid (50%) F P F F
Citric acid (10%) VG VG VG VG
Cyclohexanol G F G VG
*Dibutyl phthalate G P G G
Diesel fuel G P P VG
Diisobutyl ketone P F G P
Dimethylformamide F F G G
Dioctyl phthalate G P F VG
Dioxane VG G G G
Epoxy resins, dry VG VG VG VG
*Ethyl acetate G F G F
Ethyl alcohol VG VG VG VG
Ethyl ether VG G VG G
*Ethylene dichloride F P F P
Ethylene glycol VG VG VG VG
Formaldehyde VG VG VG VG

Chemical

Neoprene
Natural Latex
or Rubber

Butyl

Nitrile
Formic acid VG VG VG VG
Freon 11 G P F G
Freon 12 G P F G
Freon 21 G P F G
Freon 22 G P F G
*Furfural G G G G
Gasoline, leaded G P F VG
Gasoline, unleaded G P F VG
Glycerine VG VG VG VG
Hexane F P P G
Hydrochloric acid VG G G G
Hydrofluoric acid (48%) VG G G G
Hydrogen peroxide (30%) G G G G
Hydroquinone G G G F
Isooctane F P P VG
Isopropyl alcohol VG VG VG VG
Kerosene VG F F VG
Ketones G VG VG P
Lacquer thinners G F F P
Lactic acid (85%) VG VG VG VG
Lauric acid (36%) VG F VG VG
Lineoleic acid VG P F G
Linseed oil VG P F VG
Maleic acid VG VG VG VG
Methyl alcohol VG VG VG VG
Methylamine F F G G
Methyl bromide G F G F
*Methyl chloride P P P P
*Methyl ethyl ketone G G VG P
*Methyl isobutyl ketone F F VG P
Methyl methacrylate G G VG F
Monoethanolamine VG G VG VG
Morpholine VG VG VG G

Chemical

Neoprene
Natural Latex
or Rubber

Butyl

Nitrile
Naphthalene G F F G
Naphthas, aliphatic VG F F VG
Naphthas, aromatic G P P G
*Nitric acid G F F F
Nitromethane (95.5%) F P F F
Nitropropane (95.5%) F P F F
Octyl alcohol VG VG VG VG
Oleic acid VG F G VG
Oxalic acid VG VG VG VG
Palmitic acid VG VG VG VG
Perchloric acid (60%) VG F G G
Perchloroethylene F P P G
Petroleum distillates (naphtha) G P P VG
Phenol VG F G F
Phosphoric acid VG G VG VG
Potassium hydroxide VG VG VG VG
Propyl acetate G F G F
Propyl alcohol VG VG VG VG
Propyl alcohol (iso) VG VG VG VG
Sodium hydroxide VG VG VG VG
Styrene P P P F
Stryene (100%) P P P F
Sulfuric acid G G G G
Tannic acid (65%) VG VG VG VG
Tetrahydrofuran P F F F
*Toluene F P P F
Toluene diisocyanate F G G F
*Trichloroethylene F F P G
Triethanolamine VG G G VG
Tung oil VG P F VG
Turpentine G F F VG
*Xylene P P P F
*Limited service VG= Very Good G= Good F=FairP=Poor (not recommended)

Reviewed January 14, 2011



The Advanced Photon Source is an Office of Science User Facility operated for the U.S. Department of Energy Office of Science
by Argonne National Laboratory.
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:19 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kantuckid View Post
Still have the question on how well latex handles solvent-not paint stripper but lacquer thinner type stuff for limited exposure.
Find the MSDS for your product online and it will tell you which type of material your gloves should be made from.
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Old 02-26-2013, 05:44 AM   #21
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I "won" an ebay auction yesterday for a box/100 latex gloves for 99cents so I'll try them for a bit. My use is usually greasy stuff but some AB paint work. There are some bundles of 100 8 mil nitrile gloves there for a nice price too. Definitely the better place to shop gloves on the cheap.
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:57 AM   #22
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have the blue mid weights and the black heavy weights
(and some white doctor weight gloves for paint jobs of finicky carb work)

feels like
they tear only from a puncture
and it does not take more abuse to poke tru the thicker material
at least with me they last about the same

for abusive jobs, like changing tires, I found these to be great

close to indestructable
yet a lot more feel than 'real' work gloves
leather work gloves on my piano hands feel like cardboard boxes
these are very stretchy,
so they fit snug even on my hands
but allow for total freedom of movement
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:42 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiep View Post
have the blue mid weights and the black heavy weights
(and some white doctor weight gloves for paint jobs of finicky carb work)

feels like
they tear only from a puncture
and it does not take more abuse to poke tru the thicker material
at least with me they last about the same

for abusive jobs, like changing tires, I found these to be great

close to indestructable
yet a lot more feel than 'real' work gloves
leather work gloves on my piano hands feel like cardboard boxes
these are very stretchy,
so they fit snug even on my hands
but allow for total freedom of movement
+1

I found these to be great for 90% of the shop work I do. They're tough as hell, and give pretty good feel. I've even washed them when they've gotten a little grubby: just keep them on and wash your hands, then hang them to dry.
When I have a real oily/greasy job, I break out the trusty old blue nitriles.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:29 AM   #24
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Had been using the Blue Nitrile (sp?) in 5mm but they tore real easily. Have a box of the 8mm now and they've been almost indestructible compared to the 5mm. Only issue I have is my hands sweat like crazy when I wear either of them, oh well. I get them usually from Amazon. May jump up a size to see if that reduces the sweating. Wouldn't want to try the black, I like to know when my hands have grease/oil on them so I don't touch anything I don't want oil on.

Just picked up another pair of Mechanix gloves yesterday for the heavy duty stuff.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:36 AM   #25
H96669
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:29 AM   #26
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I use Kimberly-Clark blue nitrile gloves from costco for "light" messy work.
Nitrile dipped cotton knit gloves for heavier messy work (12 for $6 at Home Depot) and thin stretchy deer skin roper gloves for "drier" work. Tires, general wrenching, etc
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:26 PM   #27
gsweave
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Originally Posted by H96669 View Post




Have tried in years past a couple differant versions of this...

Works great against copper allergies and light dust, not much else.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:16 AM   #28
H96669
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Originally Posted by gsweave View Post
Have tried in years past a couple differant versions of this...

Works great against copper allergies and light dust, not much else.
I have some of the other versions, unlike that one only good with water soluble products. But the best thing is that they make your hands much easier to clean afterward. And a good thing I was playing at cleaning the expansion foam gun yesterday, not much point in wearing gloves the acetone eats them and then expansion foam residues makes Nitrile so sticky as to be unuseable.

Not perfect for sure them "gloves in a bottle" but think of them as a second barrier for when the Nitrile/Latex fail, they always do....!
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Old 03-02-2013, 03:03 PM   #29
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^I have a pair of butyl rubber "chemical" gloves I bought at the army surplus store for $10 that I use when I have to deal with acetone or other truly serious chemicals. Transfer through skin is not good.

They also are great for washing the car when it's cold (like today).
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Old 03-25-2013, 08:31 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by gspdbill View Post
Had been using the Blue Nitrile (sp?) in 5mm but they tore real easily. Have a box of the 8mm now and they've been almost indestructible compared to the 5mm. Only issue I have is my hands sweat like crazy when I wear either of them, oh well.
I have that same problem. That's one of the big advantages of the woven/nitrile coated gloves referenced above: since the back half of the glove is woven, they breathe... so zero sweaty hands.
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