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Old 02-24-2013, 06:42 PM   #91
rtwpaul OP
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Originally Posted by bmwktmbill View Post
Wow Guys,
This thread grew legs.

So much of the discussion of problems on this thread would be solved by trading the SXC for a 640 Adventure. In the bargain you get the big tank, a faring that is the best in the business, a cush wheel and a BST carb.

Slap on Touratech panniers and....

"Tonto, she's already ready to ride."

Just saying.
bill
if you walked in my place you'd see i enjoy the build process as much as the thousands of miles on the road, if i'm not doing one then i'm dreaming about the other.

for me i see adding some structure to the sub frame (i'd do the same on the 640A) tank change and some luggage racks, and i have a few irons in the fire for fairings,

in realistic terms a few days work and lots of people get to watch and throw in their 2 cents as i do it...sounds like fun to me
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:25 PM   #92
gunnerbuck
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Originally Posted by clintnz View Post
They did attach down at the pax peg mount also but were not really rigid enough to provide any support to the subframe:



They cracked at the front mounts once per side, & broke the long cap screws at the back twice, but this was over probably 70K+ km of loaded touring & a few crashes. I just got some 5/8" dia .049" wall 4130 tube to make the Mk2 versions out of & have been machining up some beefier mounting bushes. The new ones will be similar in layout but might be stiff enough to brace the back end a bit.



Cheers
Clint
Paul S has the same bike as you and also runs soft bags, Here is a pic of his made up racks, I'll see if I can find a closer photo:

I suggested he add a spreader brace which goes across the back and under the fender to add rigidity..


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Old 02-24-2013, 09:39 PM   #93
slackmeyer
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Originally Posted by rtwpaul View Post
if you walked in my place you'd see i enjoy the build process as much as the thousands of miles on the road, if i'm not doing one then i'm dreaming about the other.

for me i see adding some structure to the sub frame (i'd do the same on the 640A) tank change and some luggage racks, and i have a few irons in the fire for fairings,

in realistic terms a few days work and lots of people get to watch and throw in their 2 cents as i do it...sounds like fun to me
I think your way sounds fun. . . looks like you got a sxc with the BST carb, which is a good carb, but wise to carry some spares of the wear parts (slide, slide guide, emulsion tube, needle). Bill likes his fairing, but I see a lot of complaints about them too. . . I get no buffeting from my LC4-E without any fairing.
Oil capacity is the most difficult thing- I'd keep an eye out for a used 640 frame with title, but barring that, an oil cooler from a DR or XR-L (I think they had them?) would up the capacity a nice amount.

FWIW, I know you want maximum range, but with my 18L tank on my 640 i've had no trouble getting 225 miles while traveling (without quite turning on reserve, too). That's running 16/42 gearing, which is as high as I'm willing to go to retain dirt ability.
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Old 02-25-2013, 12:18 AM   #94
MORT666
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Hi PAUL nice to see your still traveling the world.No YAMAHA XT660Z then.kTM will do the same engine yes well.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:04 AM   #95
AdventureDave
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lights n pannier racks





Racks from Dalby moto in Queensland. Made for soft panniers too suit the 625. They move the bags a little further forward than normal racks to centralise the weight. they attach to the pillion peg bracket mount.

The lights are Baja Design dual 4" HID with mount. A little heavier than std but worth it for me to get good lighting.

Cheers

David
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:08 AM   #96
Kawidad
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Originally Posted by slackmeyer View Post
. . . looks like you got a sxc with the BST carb, which is a good carb, but wise to carry some spares of the wear parts (slide, slide guide, emulsion tube, needle).
It seems to me that a filter on the carb breather tube would prevent much of the premature wear on the carb parts. It appears to me that most of the wear is from dirt contamination.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:03 AM   #97
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by AdventureDave View Post

Racks from Dalby moto in Queensland. Made for soft panniers too suit the 625. They move the bags a little further forward than normal racks to centralise the weight. they attach to the pillion peg bracket mount.

The lights are Baja Design dual 4" HID with mount. A little heavier than std but worth it for me to get good lighting.
Cheers
David
Those look to be very nice racks for soft bags. One thing I haven't seen addressed here is WHY soft bags are "The Way" ... but I also see some riders attaching them to rather HD racks ... having the Racks take the full weight of bags. IMHO, this a mistake.

Look at Colebatch and others. They still carry their bags old school "Throw over" style, letting the SEAT take most of the weight. Done this way the racks and attach points don't have to be Super Strong. They are basically there to stabilize bags and keep them off the pipe and out of wheel.

I would still re-enforce the Sub frame as it's taking all the weight of both racks and bags, top duffel or whatever.

I see lots of guys using Thick, heavy duty, super strong racks designed to mount Hard Bags to. Why? The Aussie guys have this right. Relatively light racks are all that's required if using Throw Over style soft bags.

Using throw overs spreads the weight and adds built in "suspension" and damping from the seat foam. Win Win.

I've gone this way on my DR650 which has survived quite a bit of Baja Washboard in it's 50,000 miles. I did strip one of the attach points from vibes. No cracks, sub frame perfect despite hitting embedded rocks at 60 plus MPH.

HID 35W light kits would be my lighting choice. Cheap, expendable ... 3 times brighter that stock 55W, saves juice, Plug and play, fits into existing H-4. $12 replacement bulb. $25 for whole kit. 3 years and going on mine.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:13 AM   #98
Adv Grifter
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Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
It seems to me that a filter on the carb breather tube would prevent much of the premature wear on the carb parts. It appears to me that most of the wear is from dirt contamination.
Yes, helps to filter the breather, and certainly dirt in there speeds up wear, but according to BST expert Derek, (Motolab) its the rattling of the needle and slide that causes the worst of the wear on the BST.

I replaced my BST with a whole new Carb (bought low mileage one of Flea Market). Parts were more expensive than the $75 I paid for new Carb. Lots of DR guys sell of their BST's when they go to FCR or TM40 pumpers.

Wear takes a long time in any case, dirt or not. I swapped out the old Carb at 25,000 miles on my bike. What you notice is some hesitation off idle, bit of surging and very slight loss in MPG. These were my notes on my DR650 when I changed carbs.

The new Carb was better. No hesitation or surging. But I transferred my Dyno Jet Needle over from Old Carb. It seemed OK ... so it was the slide that showed wear. But a NEW needle every 20K or so miles would be the BEST, according to Derek.

Dirt DID get into the Carb on mine ... as I was stupid to use Pro Cycles suggested K&N filter on the breather Vent. Mistake. Use oiled foam there. No more dirt in Carb. Once sorted, it's a pretty decent Carb that if run lean enough, delivers over 50 MPH on my DR650 with very good power.
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:52 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post
Paul S has the same bike as you and also runs soft bags...
I suggested he add a spreader brace which goes across the back and under the fender to add rigidity..
I've started myself a thread on my new pannier rack build for everyone's info. I am trying to brace one side to the other but over the top with a beefier carrier rack mount. I run the bags a fair way forward so a brace out to the rear would be too long. That is another problem with most commercial racks - they have the bags high & way back to accomodate a passenger. If you are riding solo & plan to do some offroad they need to be low & forward.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
I see lots of guys using Thick, heavy duty, super strong racks designed to mount Hard Bags to. Why? The Aussie guys have this right. Relatively light racks are all that's required if using Throw Over style soft bags.

Using throw overs spreads the weight and adds built in "suspension" and damping from the seat foam. Win Win.
.
Dead right on having the subframe take the weight of the bags directly rather than the racks but I found having a strap over the seat to be a literal pain in the arse. Now for the front strap I have a piece of old seatbelt looped under the seat & hooks on the bags that attach to that. My girlfriend has the same setup on her WR:



Cheers
Clint
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:35 PM   #100
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. I am trying to brace one side to the other but over the top with a beefier carrier rack mount. I run the bags a fair way forward so a brace out to the rear would be too long. That is another problem with most commercial racks - they have the bags high & way back to accomodate a passenger. If you are riding solo & plan to do some offroad they need to be low & forward.






For off road riding I absolutely prefer to have my bags mounted rearward and somewhat raised whether running soft bags or hard luggage... A problem arises off road when the bags are too far forward and low which is clipping the back of your leg under the bag when paddling or dabbing over rough ground... This is worse with hard luggage as you can break a leg... With soft luggage it still smarts when you clip that calf muscle as usually the heavy hard items get stowed in the bottom of the bags and that is what slaps you before the bag shifts...

Sorry for the jabber on your thread Paul, hope to see some of your build pics soon...
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:55 PM   #101
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its all good...keep it coming i am firing emails back and forth with a few vendors so it will be a while but this is turning out to valuable information for me and hopefully for others who read it now and later down the road

on the soft bag debate, my 0.02...i use the wolfman bags and strap them together drop them over the seat and only then attach to the frame simply to stop outward bounce and forward travel, the seat take the weight not the rack, also mounted far enough back so not as to get in the way when you have an off...this positioning i think is personal preference depending on your riding style, but forward and down is a definite help



Quote:
Originally Posted by gunnerbuck View Post

Sorry for the jabber on your thread Paul, hope to see some of your build pics soon...
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:30 PM   #102
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Have you checked out DirtBagz? They make a rack for the LC4 for use with soft bags. I have a buddy that used them for several years of off and on road touring with nothing but good things to say.

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Old 02-25-2013, 09:40 PM   #103
slackmeyer
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The LC4 is using dirtbagz brackets with some bags I made in this picture: I found that the zippers on dirtbagz would get full of dirt and sand, and be difficult to open or close. I made some simple cordura rolltop bags that sling over the seat, and attach to the same points that the dirtbagz do (loops on front and a strap to the passenger pegs). They kept stuff dry and they held up, and with a drybag on the rack, they held stuff for 20 days of camping out riding up to alaska and back. One of the dirtbagz brackets was on the bike when I bought it, I made the other side to match, with thicker wall tubing. The original one cracked near whitehorse, and we had it repaired there.
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:02 PM   #104
rtwpaul OP
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Originally Posted by Sparrowhawk View Post
Have you checked out DirtBagz? They make a rack for the LC4 for use with soft bags. I have a buddy that used them for several years of off and on road touring with nothing but good things to say.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
as per the FAQ's on their website...

Q; Are the bags waterproof?
A; The bags are constructed of waterproof coated ballistic nylon. The bags have a zipper opening that is shielded with a storm flap. due to the zipper opening not being waterproof we do not claim the bags to be waterproof but Highly Water-Resistant. What that means is for light rain or stream crossing they work fine but prolonged medium to heavy rains will get the contents of the bags get wet.






i like to have dry things at the end of the day, especially if i have been riding in the rain and get into my tent i like a dry sleeping bag...but i'm just real picky like that





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Old 02-25-2013, 11:55 PM   #105
motolab
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Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Yes, helps to filter the breather, and certainly dirt in there speeds up wear, but according to BST expert Derek, (Motolab) its the rattling of the needle and slide that causes the worst of the wear on the BST.
Actually it's the up and down oscillation of the slide. Remember that the slide tries to rise every time the intake valve opens and fall back down every time the intake valve shuts. More slide lift damping reduces the amplitude of this oscillation and reduces wear. Dyno testing I've done on an '07 Adventure also shows that a single undrilled lift hole makes more power at all throttle openings than two. I therefore don't recommend drilling the lift holes, and certainly not on a bike that will see lots of miles in foreign lands where constantly inspecting and replacing the slide guide, emulsion tube, slide and/or needle is impractical.

But you must limit dirt ingress also. The two screens inside the black cartridge that KTM provides as a breather filter are indeed woefully inadequate. This can be remedied with a homemade foam insert (as covered in the BST bible thread). I get concerned about the lack of exposed area and possible clogging when dirty, so I recommend an oiled UNI instead.
Quote:
Wear takes a long time in any case, dirt or not.
I guess it depends on how you define "a long time". Slide guide, and therefore emulsion tube, slide and/or needle wear are chronic BST issues. If the slide guide is to be replaced soon enough so as to prevent emulsion tube, slide, and needle wear, that would have to happen at an interval I would call frequent. Drilling the slide halves the mileage you can get from the parts. Installing the single lift hole slide doubles it (at least).
Quote:
But I transferred my Dyno Jet Needle over from Old Carb. It seemed OK ... so it was the slide that showed wear.
More importantly, the emulsion tube wears more when you use a hard needle material such as stainless steel or titanium.
Quote:
But a NEW needle every 20K or so miles would be the BEST, according to Derek.
A new aluminum needle that is, and then subject to inspection.

Regards,

Derek
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