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Old 02-24-2013, 07:48 PM   #16
davebig
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Originally Posted by jeffygs View Post
I have yet to try a bike with the ceramic clutch. I have just heard they do not wear, I wonder if thats true for all the parts(PP and FW).

My GS has 82K on it now, I bought it used in 97 I think it had 30K on it, I have not changed the clutch, and I do not have any clutch issues, yet.

I do expect to do the steering mod.I have the steer rite on my GL and it made a hell of a difference. Car rim on the back also sounds good as I would like to run a car tire just for the wear issues.
I started with a gl1100 ural, I almost wish I had kept it also, not enough ground clearance. Twintwin helped me with a steering mod it works well and I think its a better option than a lower triple clamp change.In a little shameless self promo a welder buddy and I have done this twice and will be doing it for another inmate shortly http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786238
I changed out my clutch at 82 k it was fine but the bike was coming apart anyway, but I would do the 37/11 before I changed the clutch unless it was slipping, the ceramics are too much money.DB
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:16 AM   #17
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Yes I like the GL1100 combo. ground clearance is and issue. The other is the low power charging system of the old gold wings, 300 watts@ 2500 rpm is not enough for me when I travel,(heated jacket,heated grips, GPS, stereo, ipad charger, headlight,) not that Ive ever had a problem, its just always on my mind and I try not to use everything at once which can be tough in the mountians when its cold, and I would like more lighting. I already have the GS, I know it well, It runs great, and it deserves to on the road (as a tug)







Quote:
Originally Posted by davebig View Post
I started with a gl1100 ural, I almost wish I had kept it also, not enough ground clearance. Twintwin helped me with a steering mod it works well and I think its a better option than a lower triple clamp change.In a little shameless self promo a welder buddy and I have done this twice and will be doing it for another inmate shortly http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786238
I changed out my clutch at 82 k it was fine but the bike was coming apart anyway, but I would do the 37/11 before I changed the clutch unless it was slipping, the ceramics are too much money.DB
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:07 AM   #18
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Yes I like the GL1100 combo. ground clearance is and issue. The other is the low power charging system of the old gold wings, 300 watts@ 2500 rpm is not enough for me when I travel,(heated jacket,heated grips, GPS, stereo, ipad charger, headlight,) not that Ive ever had a problem, its just always on my mind and I try not to use everything at once which can be tough in the mountians when its cold, and I would like more lighting. I already have the GS, I know it well, It runs great, and it deserves to on the road (as a tug)
That stuff can be smoothed out I put a lrg optima battery in the Urals trunk, added Piaas to the front bumper and got a relay circuit from easternbeaver.com so that the headlight always got batttery voltage (much brighter) steel brake lines and drilled my rotors myself walla brakes as good as my BMW.It was an unfaired 83 with the cast wheels shoulda kept it as it was a fun learning machine, wasn't that wild about the OD 5th I needed to use it less.DB
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:15 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by jeffygs View Post
Yes I like the GL1100 combo. ground clearance is and issue. The other is the low power charging system of the old gold wings, 300 watts@ 2500 rpm is not enough for me when I travel,(heated jacket,heated grips, GPS, stereo, ipad charger, headlight,) not that Ive ever had a problem, its just always on my mind and I try not to use everything at once which can be tough in the mountians when its cold, and I would like more lighting. I already have the GS, I know it well, It runs great, and it deserves to on the road (as a tug)










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Old 02-25-2013, 06:52 PM   #20
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Ive been thinking about that mod for a year now, lots of opinions about the pulley on the cranks and the alt pulley, nobody seems to agree, poboys got a mod but Im not impressed, I would do this mod if I keep my GL instead of converting my GS






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Old 02-25-2013, 07:07 PM   #21
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I would like to hear more about this mod. did your battery run the piaas, until dead, then turn em off for recharge???? Did the battery give you enough juice to run all day with the lights on, 55 each piaaa, 55 headlight , heated gear 80, gps , radio, phone charger lets say 10, thats 250 watts on a 300 watt system not including a low or weak battery and system costs, am i wrong here?
I know the alt is constant output and excess is discharged but what if you hit the max because of the old system? is it a burn out, then a replacement


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That stuff can be smoothed out I put a lrg optima battery in the Urals trunk, added Piaas to the front bumper and got a relay circuit from easternbeaver.com so that the headlight always got batttery voltage (much brighter) steel brake lines and drilled my rotors myself walla brakes as good as my BMW.It was an unfaired 83 with the cast wheels shoulda kept it as it was a fun learning machine, wasn't that wild about the OD 5th I needed to use it less.DB
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:11 PM   #22
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Ive been thinking about that mod for a year now, lots of opinions about the pulley on the cranks and the alt pulley, nobody seems to agree, poboys got a mod but Im not impressed, I would do this mod if I keep my GL instead of converting my GS


Any specific concerns ?

The crank snout loading is not a problem.



Your call on the choice of tug. For mainly asphalt and forestry/Alcan Hwy style work I'd run the 'wing. My 'glide has more ground clearance under the bike than the bm' had.



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Old 02-25-2013, 07:27 PM   #23
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Hmmm

The auto alternator would be the best idea.I had a optima auto battery in the trunk, I only ran the Piaa's at night when needed, wiring the headlight through a relay and using the existing headlight wiring to turn the relays on and off makes for a very bright headlight.I usually maintain my motorcycles on battery maintainers year around. If I where going to travel long distances a 30 year old bike wouldn't be my first, but those old wings where a pretty bullet proof setup and parts are everywhere for them. Since I have an 1150gsa based rig now they are way different beasts.DB
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Old 02-25-2013, 07:29 PM   #24
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The concerns I have, rain and the back of the alternator and belt slippage, keeping the tension on the belt, cracking of the long arm mounts, bolting the pulley to the crank, keyed or not, rain entering the timing belt covers. Are you Sorry you asked?
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Any specific concerns ?

The crank snout loading is not a problem.



Your call on the choice of tug. For mainly asphalt and forestry/Alcan Hwy style work I'd run the 'wing. My 'glide has more ground clearance under the bike than the bm' had.



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Old 02-25-2013, 07:41 PM   #25
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The concerns I have, rain and the back of the alternator and belt slippage, keeping the tension on the belt, cracking of the long arm mounts, bolting the pulley to the crank, keyed or not, rain entering the timing belt covers. Are you Sorry you asked?

Sorry ? ... hell no


Rain , ask Whitlam ( bmeuro's old rig , R100gspd ) , not a problem. Belt housing can be sealed , depends on your choice of crank pulley offset.

Slippage , zero , zip , zilch if you use the correct belt for the pulleys that you choose.

Cracked mounts , proper preparation prevents piss poor performance ... build it right the first time

Tension , non issue ... next ?

Adaptation of drive pulley to crank , non issue if you stop and look at it. If in doubt consult local engineering shop. Simple job. Cat' , cummins , detroit plus numerous car manufacturers over the years employed the same stacking of crank pulleys bolted to the harmonic balancer ... bottom line , non issue.



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Old 02-26-2013, 03:29 AM   #26
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now Im glad I asked. I have a trip to Alaska this June and will be taking the GL/EML. maybe I can convert before I go
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Sorry ? ... hell no


Rain , ask Whitlam ( bmeuro's old rig , R100gspd ) , not a problem. Belt housing can be sealed , depends on your choice of crank pulley offset.

Slippage , zero , zip , zilch if you use the correct belt for the pulleys that you choose.

Cracked mounts , proper preparation prevents piss poor performance ... build it right the first time

Tension , non issue ... next ?

Adaptation of drive pulley to crank , non issue if you stop and look at it. If in doubt consult local engineering shop. Simple job. Cat' , cummins , detroit plus numerous car manufacturers over the years employed the same stacking of crank pulleys bolted to the harmonic balancer ... bottom line , non issue.



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Old 02-26-2013, 05:53 AM   #27
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If the GL/eml works good it maybe easier(cheaper) to improve than mounting chair on GS the poorboy set up seems like a great idea to me if your afraid of water in the belt covers drill some drains,and mount a car battery someplace. Get the Headlight relay setup http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring...ring_kits.html
Onward ans forward.DB
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