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Old 04-22-2013, 06:53 AM   #61
Two Moto Kiwis
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We will have our MW-R and precleaner fitted up in a couple of weeks so I will do milage checks to see the accurate LIVE test as we already have stats at various heights, humidities and temperatures.

Slackmeyer if you feel the pre cleaner is too restrictive you could always add the vented "doors" shown in the link.

http://www.racingairfilters.eu/data/...20%20%2002.jpg
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:42 PM   #62
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The Uni Pre filter certainly does restrict air flow somewhat. I have them on both my bikes and both required rejetting to run correctly. I CAN feel the difference between the snorkel and prefilter. Check the opening size of the stock snorkel against the bottom of the pre filter and the difference is obvious. Then factor in the oiled foam. Also a simple test can be done with a vacuum cleaner, length of clear tubing and a ping pong ball that shows the difference. The EFI bikes have enough tolerance that the prefilter may not require remapping. Carbed bikes need to be jetted/adjusted for the prefilter.
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Old 04-22-2013, 08:48 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Boatman View Post
The Uni Pre filter certainly does restrict air flow somewhat. I have them on both my bikes and both required rejetting to run correctly. I CAN feel the difference between the snorkel and prefilter. Check the opening size of the stock snorkel against the bottom of the pre filter and the difference is obvious. Then factor in the oiled foam. Also a simple test can be done with a vacuum cleaner, length of clear tubing and a ping pong ball that shows the difference. The EFI bikes have enough tolerance that the prefilter may not require remapping. Carbed bikes need to be jetted/adjusted for the prefilter.
I think another couple factors that you hinted at are: EFI bikes may be on the lean side from the factory at mid-throttle settings, the restriction may help that; the MAF sensor might do a better job at factoring in air restrictions than CV carbs; and the effect of more intake vacuum on a cv carb may compound the richness by helping to suck fuel out of the carbs a bit more, whereas a fuel injector does not notice this.

I would run the uni prefilter again if I was doing much dusty offroad in a group. My filters last quite a while when I mostly ride solo though.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:40 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by slackmeyer View Post
I think another couple factors that you hinted at are: EFI bikes may be on the lean side from the factory at mid-throttle settings, the restriction may help that; the MAF sensor might do a better job at factoring in air restrictions than CV carbs; and the effect of more intake vacuum on a cv carb may compound the richness by helping to suck fuel out of the carbs a bit more, whereas a fuel injector does not notice this.

I would run the uni prefilter again if I was doing much dusty offroad in a group. My filters last quite a while when I mostly ride solo though.

I still use the prefilters to extend the life of the OEM filters and that is the only reason. The vented door filters that were mentioned aren't an option for me either as I have had the SE in water numerous times where water would likely enter the doors. I was hoping the Uni replacement filter was going to be the one for me but Griz killed that when he mentioned that you have to squish the filter when installing the cover.
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Old 04-23-2013, 07:24 AM   #65
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Good to know regarding the Uni prefilter and the 950 carb bikes. Being I only have experience with my 990 FI bike, and Uni claiming that the prefilter won't effect air flow, I was finding it hard to believe.

Again, I can say for sure that with the Uni prefilter and my 990 FI bike it runs like a champ. Same power as before as well.

I have been told and have also found myself that the minimal amount the main Uni filter needs to be squished to get the airbox lid on does not alter performance of the filter or the bike. The only issue, if you can call it that, is that you get filter oil on the inside of the airbox lid.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:02 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by The Griz View Post
I have been told and have also found myself that the minimal amount the main Uni filter needs to be squished to get the airbox lid on does not alter performance of the filter or the bike. The only issue, if you can call it that, is that you get filter oil on the inside of the airbox lid.
I'm wondering if the squished portion of the filter (entire top?) has any airflow through it after being in contact with airbox lid? Seems like that would reduce the effective filter area and perhaps also airflow.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:14 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by DirtJack View Post
I'm wondering if the squished portion of the filter (entire top?) has any airflow through it after being in contact with airbox lid? Seems like that would reduce the effective filter area and perhaps also airflow.
The filth pattern on the filter after a few dusty rides will reveal if there is any issue with this, I believe.
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:36 AM   #68
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Well I can say so far that I'm not feeling any difference in power between the stock filter and stock snorkel and the Uni prefilter and Uni main filter that I'm running now. I'll look at the contact pattern on the airbox lid.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:25 PM   #69
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So I decided to pull off the airbox lid and see what's really going on in there with this Uni filter. Again, I was not feeling any change in performance in any aspect while running this filter.

Here's what I found on the inside of the airbox lid. Definitely a lot of contact happening between the filter and lid:



Then I looked down at the filter and went "#$%&*, that thing got squished!" It's so squished that the open cavity on the inside of the main filter element was definitely closed up:





The filter off the bike with the outside prefilter off:





EDIT: Got an email from Uni Aus. I may not have been seating the filter down far enough onto the trumpets. I'm going to check some things out and I'll report back.
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The Griz screwed with this post 04-27-2013 at 04:59 PM
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Old 04-27-2013, 01:43 PM   #70
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Is it not ment to be ridden vvithout the topbox, or completely vvithout the box?
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:01 PM   #71
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That is a bugga Griz as it looks the biz.

Our MW-R arrived in Antigua so will fit in two weeks time pics and all.

My concern for your filter would be wear from rubbing/vib with potential to hole.

Keep us updated.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:21 PM   #72
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I thought those filters were meant to be used without the airbox, and the flat panel versions were for use with the airbox?
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:29 PM   #73
The Griz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LocuL View Post
Is it not ment to be ridden vvithout the topbox, or completely vvithout the box?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uneasy Rider View Post
I thought those filters were meant to be used without the airbox, and the flat panel versions were for use with the airbox?
Nope, the NU 1426 KIT is meant to be run with the airbox on and closed up. It says so in the installation manual.
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Old 04-27-2013, 03:31 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis View Post
That is a bugga Griz as it looks the biz.

Our MW-R arrived in Antigua so will fit in two weeks time pics and all.

My concern for your filter would be wear from rubbing/vib with potential to hole.

Keep us updated.
Yeah, it's a bummer. I want to run an oiled foam air filter. However, I'm not worried about performance gains and refuse to pay $300 for a foam air filter, not to mention that I don't want to have to remap, remove the SAS, or remove the airbox. Do you have to remap with the MW-R?
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:02 PM   #75
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OK, so after talking to Uni I'm pretty sure I hadn't seated the filter down onto the intake trumpets far enough. This made the filter sit up too high:

Side view:


Bad drawing, I know. It should get the point across though.

The filter apparently should be seated all the way down onto the intake trumpets like so, so the lip of the trumpet sits inside the open cavity in the filter:



So, The filter isn't designed bad. I didn't install it right!
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