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Old 10-07-2011, 01:04 PM   #1891
Lortdadu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVhillbilly View Post
$2100

Hope mine stays together.
When I ride with folks that have not heard an LC4 run they always ask what is wrong with it

They can be a bit vocal even when they are running fine.
Yeah, the first time I showed my LC4 to my friends, they asked if the engine is supposed to be like that or will it die any minute.

If anyone is going to disassemble their tank cap anytime soon, could you take photo's of the assembly? When I got the tank, I had to break the lock to make a key for it, and I forgot how the vents are assembled into the cap... So now when I drive it, like every 2-4km it runs of out of fuel because it can't get the air back into the tank (that's why I have a second key on the tank now and open it every now and then lol).

Or does anyone know which way the valves inside the cap are supposed to go? It's getting annoying. Driving longer distances is impossible with that. I've taken it apart countless time and tried to clean all the air vents, but for some reason it doesn't want to cooperate.
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Old 10-07-2011, 01:26 PM   #1892
Sumi
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Originally Posted by Lortdadu View Post
Yeah, the first time I showed my LC4 to my friends, they asked if the engine is supposed to be like that or will it die any minute.
I don't need my friends for that:) I'm keeping asking this exactly same question from myself every time I ride it
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Old 10-07-2011, 05:39 PM   #1893
WVhillbilly
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Check the lines under the seat that go back the the carbon canister, if you still have it.
I pinched one of mine with the seat once and it did the same thing.
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Old 10-07-2011, 06:42 PM   #1894
mxchamp
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Bluhduh LC4 Problems

So was riding back home today and the bike was sounding fine. Stopped to check my messages on my phone and started her up again to keep going and wham I thought my exhaust fell off.

Stopped again and my exhaust was still there so I headed home (10 more miles) to check it there.

Got it home and found the problem:



#34 and #35 Between the exhaust outlets.

Anybody have a spare one of those? Can I still ride the bike? It's only very very loud!

And lastly how do you install that back in there??? I hope I don't have to remove the motor.

TIA
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Old 10-08-2011, 12:17 AM   #1895
Lortdadu
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Originally Posted by mxchamp View Post

#34 and #35 Between the exhaust outlets.

And lastly how do you install that back in there??? I hope I don't have to remove the motor.

TIA
You're going to have to remove the header's, and then the exhaust flanges. Put the little cap there, and put everything back on, not a big process.

Happened to me as well, it seems as if the pressure "vibrates" or moves that little cap there if it's not a tight fit and it get's eaten away a bit by bit...

And that's also where a rattling noise can come if it vibrates between the flanges.
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Old 10-09-2011, 01:03 PM   #1896
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lortdadu View Post
You're going to have to remove the header's, and then the exhaust flanges. Put the little cap there, and put everything back on, not a big process.

Happened to me as well, it seems as if the pressure "vibrates" or moves that little cap there if it's not a tight fit and it get's eaten away a bit by bit...

And that's also where a rattling noise can come if it vibrates between the flanges.
After my rebuild I put that cap back in with a dab of exhaust cement which seems to have held it in place with no rattles.

Cheers
Clint
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:32 AM   #1897
Aivasovsky
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Cold vs. Hot engine valve lash

I have checked and adjusted my valves. Thanks for the guide!
They were a bit tight.
Then i remembered that i ran the engine for a minute.
So it was a bit warm.
Does it make any problem?

How the valve lash change when the engine warm? (get looser or tighter)
How much it changes? (just curious)
Thanks!
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Old 10-10-2011, 01:45 AM   #1898
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I'm also planning a valve check, but I have a question:

How do you reseal the valve covers? Just reuse the old gasket? or put on a new one?

Thanks.
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Old 10-10-2011, 03:13 AM   #1899
Aivasovsky
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
I'm also planning a valve check, but I have a question:

How do you reseal the valve covers? Just reuse the old gasket? or put on a new one?

Thanks.
I opened them several times, cleaned the surfaces and used old gaskets without any problems.
Don't worry about it.
If you happen to damage the gasket you may use RTV gasket silicone or something similar.
You can cut a new one easily from a gasket sheet like here as well

Best wishes!
Kagan
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:05 AM   #1900
Sumi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aivasovsky View Post
I opened them several times, cleaned the surfaces and used old gaskets without any problems.
Don't worry about it.
If you happen to damage the gasket you may use RTV gasket silicone or something similar.
You can cut a new one easily from a gasket sheet like here as well

Best wishes!
Kagan
Thank you
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:28 AM   #1901
dirty_sanchez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumi View Post
Thank you
Sumi- I'll post up a link to the Loctite thread, but be warned, If you choose the wrong type of RTV the valve cover will leak. Additionally one of the by-products the acetoxy gas features is it's corrosivity to electrical components and ferrous metals.

RTV's which smell like vinegar do not withstand exposure to fuels, oils, ethylene glycols, etc. These are called acetoxy-cure or acetic acid cure RTV's. An example of this is most all types of cheap RTV. Red "High-Temp" RTV's such as Dow Corning 736 is also a corrosive RTV.

All RTV's are not created equal.

Don't use any vinegar-smelling RTV to seal up that valve inspection cover.

The debate has gone on for years as to what to use, but here's what I've done and my inspection covers don't leak a drop.

Remove each cover and make note of the raised metal bead in the center of the mating surface.

Sand the tiny ridge off by placing a sheet of fine grit sand paper lubricated by WD-40 or the like on a flat surface and work the inspection covers around on the sand paper until the ridge had been removed.

Clean both covers, place a thin bead of any of the Loctite Gasket Eliminators on the freshly lapped inspection covers and reinstal them.

You'll never have another leak.

If you think about it, by sanding off the ridge and NOT using archane cut gaskets we're dramatically increasing the amount of mating surface for the application. And off of the KTM assembly floor, the mating surface is pencil thin. The cut gasket takes a compression set and relaxes and a leak rears it's ugly head.

Here's a thread to read over if you like:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265016

Dirty
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:33 AM   #1902
Sumi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Sumi- I'll post up a link to the Loctite thread, but be warned, If you choose the wrong type of RTV the valve cover will leak. Additionally one of the by-products the acetoxy gas features is it's corrosivity to electrical components and ferrous metals.

RTV's which smell like vinegar do not withstand exposure to fuels, oils, ethylene glycols, etc. These are called acetoxy-cure or acetic acid cure RTV's. An example of this is most all types of cheap RTV. Red "High-Temp" RTV's such as Dow Corning 736 is also a corrosive RTV.

All RTV's are not created equal.

Don't use any vinegar-smelling RTV to seal up that valve inspection cover.

The debate has gone on for years as to what to use, but here's what I've done and my inspection covers don't leak a drop.

Remove each cover and make note of the raised metal bead in the center of the mating surface.

Sand the tiny ridge off by placing a sheet of fine grit sand paper lubricated by WD-40 or the like on a flat surface and work the inspection covers around on the sand paper until the ridge had been removed.

Clean both covers, place a thin bead of any of the Loctite Gasket Eliminators on the freshly lapped inspection covers and reinstal them.

You'll never have another leak.

If you think about it, by sanding off the ridge and NOT using archane cut gaskets we're dramatically increasing the amount of mating surface for the application. And off of the KTM assembly floor, the mating surface is pencil thin. The cut gasket takes a compression set and relaxes and a leak rears it's ugly head.

Here's a thread to read over if you like:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265016

Dirty
Thanks, If everything else fails (old gasket, new gasket), I'll give this is a shot!
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:04 PM   #1903
rz35027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirty_sanchez View Post
Sumi- I'll post up a link to the Loctite thread, but be warned, If you choose the wrong type of RTV the valve cover will leak. Additionally one of the by-products the acetoxy gas features is it's corrosivity to electrical components and ferrous metals.

RTV's which smell like vinegar do not withstand exposure to fuels, oils, ethylene glycols, etc. These are called acetoxy-cure or acetic acid cure RTV's. An example of this is most all types of cheap RTV. Red "High-Temp" RTV's such as Dow Corning 736 is also a corrosive RTV.

All RTV's are not created equal.

Don't use any vinegar-smelling RTV to seal up that valve inspection cover.

The debate has gone on for years as to what to use, but here's what I've done and my inspection covers don't leak a drop.

Remove each cover and make note of the raised metal bead in the center of the mating surface.

Sand the tiny ridge off by placing a sheet of fine grit sand paper lubricated by WD-40 or the like on a flat surface and work the inspection covers around on the sand paper until the ridge had been removed.

Clean both covers, place a thin bead of any of the Loctite Gasket Eliminators on the freshly lapped inspection covers and reinstal them.

You'll never have another leak.

If you think about it, by sanding off the ridge and NOT using archane cut gaskets we're dramatically increasing the amount of mating surface for the application. And off of the KTM assembly floor, the mating surface is pencil thin. The cut gasket takes a compression set and relaxes and a leak rears it's ugly head.

Here's a thread to read over if you like:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265016

Dirty
Nice...
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Old 10-10-2011, 07:57 PM   #1904
dirty_sanchez
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Originally Posted by rz35027 View Post
Nice...
Thanks, this is what I do for a living.

Such is the life of a Loctite guy.

Dirty
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:12 AM   #1905
bmwktmbill
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Dirty,
Last I sealed the top of the engine I used Red hi-temp RTV.

It worked OK, leaked a little.

What are you recommending for that these days?

Also on the road it might be necessary to reuse a base or head gasket if the engine has to come apart and fresh spares aren't available.

Can you recommend anything for reuseing these and if so does the torque spec stay the same?

Should the head be retorqued?
Should the engine top?

bill
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