KTM LC4 (640) Thread Index

[meat popsicle]

Originally Posted by mxchamp

I might be wrong here Tallbob, but keep both sides of pinch bolts loose, then torque the axle to the proper torque settings, then torque the pinch bolts.

Torquing the axle will align things up correctly, I can't remember on my old girl if there was a spacer or not on the opposite side of the speedo. It's been too long!

Try that, if that doesn't work, get a manual?!?

Zerodog (our local suspension expert) corrected me awhile back on this:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...76&postcount=6

[flying_low]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

Zerodog (our local suspension expert) corrected me awhile back on this:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...76&postcount=6

Gentlemen/Ladies (delete as necessary please)


I thank you. also the pic from Tallbob is basically what i was worried about.. but this confirms its all looking tip top.

Oh, one more quickie..

Trying to dismount rear wheel, and the axle on that felt really REALLY solidly fitted. Not like the front at all, which i understand due to the drive being on rear..

But i couldn't figure out if the axle needs to be tapped out from the opposite side..? is that even possible? is it norrmal for it to be tighter than a nun's.. umm.. habit? what is the best wat to get the axle out and therefore the wheel off? (Intention was actually to take off the caliper and give it a good cleaning)

Clearly this is the first time i have tried doing this (on a bike - worked a lot on Landrovers for years) so just don't want to go damage anything by being silly.

Grateful for any further pointers..Thanks!

Fly low and keep the wheels below you as much as possible!

[BajaRat]

Originally Posted by flying_low

Gentlemen/Ladies (delete as necessary please)


I thank you. also the pic from Tallbob is basically what i was worried about.. but this confirms its all looking tip top.

Oh, one more quickie..

Trying to dismount rear wheel, and the axle on that felt really REALLY solidly fitted. Not like the front at all, which i understand due to the drive being on rear..

But i couldn't figure out if the axle needs to be tapped out from the opposite side..? is that even possible? is it norrmal for it to be tighter than a nun's.. umm.. habit? what is the best wat to get the axle out and therefore the wheel off? (Intention was actually to take off the caliper and give it a good cleaning)

Clearly this is the first time i have tried doing this (on a bike - worked a lot on Landrovers for years) so just don't want to go damage anything by being silly.

Grateful for any further pointers..Thanks!

Fly low and keep the wheels below you as much as possible!

Just loosen the axle nut all the way.
Then put it back on the axle and run it in about two thread's worth.

Now you can hit the axle nut with your hand, boot, hammer......You get the idea.

That is the best way to do this especially out on the trail when you have to change a tube with limited tools.

[meat popsicle]

flying_low,

I always coat my axles with a bit of grease so when I need to pull the axles they come out really easily (tapping instead of pounding). If yours are sticky you might need to clean them and the forks/swingarm up to remove corrosion.

[jonnyw]

It definitely tough on the rear. That wheel assembly wieghs a ton compared to the front. See if you can find a axle pull for the rear. I just picked one up off Ebay used with axle and all for $15. I couldnt find one new listed for the 640 but they gotta be out there. If yours is a 03 or newer hte front pulls are easy to find. Get yourself a tub of waterproof grease and smear it on for the next time like Meat suggested.


edit: I just noticed you have Duke. So there may not have a pull for it. Since it has a ecentric cam.

[jonnyw]

Originally Posted by SikDMAX

Wow. That sucks. I guess MXChamp just spent $25 of mine. :(

After using his sweet ass puller he made. He will save you a grand in labor from your local dealer!

[flying_low]

Originally Posted by meat popsicle

flying_low,

I always coat my axles with a bit of grease so when I need to pull the axles they come out really easily (tapping instead of pounding). If yours are sticky you might need to clean them and the forks/swingarm up to remove corrosion.

Thanks! This sounds the most likely issue. know the bike was stored and used for a couple of years at sea level.. humid salty air.. i can see some of the fairing nuts are pretty oxidised.. so i'm sure this could be the issue.

Will report finding after i'm back with the beast the other side of the weekend.. have a good one wherever you are!
Thanks all!

[rallyelc4]

Originally Posted by mxchamp

I forgot about that! What an awesome deal!

After seeing your picture on your 525, makes me want to get studded tires on my 520. And a white helmet!

This is the best I can do for right now:



My cylinder is back from being replated after my piston and connecting rod took it out on the 640.

Soon I will be riding her again!

hi mate can i ask who did your cylinder and how much it cost?

[mxchamp]

The bike is at my local KTM dealer Motosports in Des Moines Iowa. My wife wouldn't let me tackle a job like this on my own so I took it to the guys down there.

I don't know all the exact details because I don't have the work order yet, Doug down there did mention that my cylinder was going to Alabama to get replated. I don't know the exact company but I can give them a call if you really want to know.

Replating was around $300 for shipping, the work, and sending it back. It does come in a nice fitted box and the new piston as well. It's a ProX piston. We found it on ebay for $100! I am sure it went with the cylinder so it could be fitted correctly.

Doug is a great guy and it's just a little KTM shop. He does everything himself. He's the owner, sale manager, and mechanic. He also sells Ducati and used to race MX and still races in the NESPA series? I hope that's right.

I have a jaw dropping $2200 bucks into this engine. We didn't think that the piston and cylinder were bad. That's what really is taking the longest and costing more. But she will have all new seals, gaskets, everything when we are done. Parts are expensive.

My cylinder looks great on the inside, but the outside is a different story. They dipped the cylinder in a caustic solution which really roughs up the aluminum. It took off most of my paint on the outside. Looks like crap! So we are going to rattle can some high temp black paint back onto her when we have her put back together.

Any other questions, just ask!

[cjm1219]

I hope someone can point me in the right direction.

I have a slight fuel leak on my "new to me" 2000 640 LC4e. I get a drip out of the carb drain hose once every 45-60 seconds, while not running.

I have done some digging. The petcock isn't sealing totally on the off position. slight seep that is going to the carb and then filling the bowl and running to the over flow and onto the ground. If I drain the carb bowl it takes 1.5 days to fill it and then go to the over flow.

Petcock leak, problem #1.

Problem #2. Float height too high, thus not sealing and running to overflow.

after reading a bunch of threads on setting the float height it sounds like the bike should not be running well if the float height isn't right. The bike runs great. I haven't checked the proper float height yet. I did however clean it out and look for any spec of dirt that might not be letting the fuel to be sealed off.

Any advice or links to threads that have covered this would be appreciated.

Thanks,

[SikDMAX]

I had a similar problem but worse, would drain the tank overnight. A thorough carb cleanly and it hasn't dripped one drop since!

[ChrisC]

Originally Posted by cjm1219

I

Problem #2. Float height too high, thus not sealing and running to overflow.

A float set too high will likely make for some running issues, but it shouldn't make the BST leak out it's overflow tube. I'd be looking at a leaky needle and seat issue. Then, once you've got that handled, reset the float height and you should be good to go...

[jonnyw]

Originally Posted by ChrisC

I'd be looking at a leaky needle and seat issue.

I wouldnt think the float would be it, probally just the seat. Nothing a new oring cant fix. I was told harbor frieght has a fuel safe oring kit that has alot of the sizes for the BST in it for $8 or so. Refer to the BST bible it has everything you will ever need to know in there. I would go thru the whole thing and do the mods if it hasnt been done already. And get you one fo those niffty adjustable needles. It all can be done for $40 or so.

[gunnerbuck]

I second what Chris C said, It's an older bike so it is very likely that the float needle is worn out...

[veetwo _tls]

anyone able to help me with this carb problem ?


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...8#post15199688