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Old 03-18-2013, 07:17 PM   #1
Capt. REDBEARD OP
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Location: buzzards bay
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Redbeard redux

I was just getting over a long drawn out affair with a Dakar; that in the end, no matter how much blood, sweat and dollars I poured into it, was not going to work out.

I swore to myself that this next time it was going to be different. I was going to take my time, find the exact right bike with all the maintenance done and factory fails worked out. I would buy a garage queen and try my damnedest to keep her that way.
No more tear downs and farkle fests.
No more rolling money pits.


I would put my money towards a quality bike.
Fill with gas. Ride the shit out of it. Repeat.

Then it happened.......................................... .

Quote:
Originally Posted by vashonz View Post
**SOLD**

FOR SALE:

I bought my 2004 KTM 950 Adventure when I moved to Washington State. I did the water pump when I bought it. That winter it stopped starting well in cold weather and I decided to re adjusts the valve shims, replace the battery and rebuild the carbs. I got in over my head, between (new) house, (new) baby, and busy job I never put the bike back together.

Everything is there, ADV workshop jet kit and prefilter, gobi bags, KTM top bag, ricks custom leather seat, heated grips, LOUD horn, skid plate, carbon protectors on the forks, crash bars and more, new super thick tire tubes.

I modified the mufflers, they should flow better and be slightly louder, air injection has been removed, SAS has been removed.

The Bad: Fork Seals need to be replaced, bike needs to be reassembled and gone over, if you know KTMs and have time and a place to work on them, this could be for you. I moved to New England and into an apartment, so the bike is in my storage unit, so I don't have the opportunity to work on it.

It rolls, can be put on a trailer, or in the back of a truck.

$CHEAP$, open to offers, Title in hand, Located in Hingham MA (02043) (Boston South Shore)

SON OF A BITCH!
less then an hour from home and I would be in that town the very next day with an empty truck.

"honey can you come to the ATM with?"


I met the seller at his storage unit. Looked here, poked there. Everything looked low mileage and fairly well taken care of. I roughly calculated what I could get in a part out - and made him an offer.

After searching for the title for a few hours and as many trips between house and storage unit, the deal was done.

as it rolled out of storage......



Having just moved into a new house myself last summer I have yet to set up any real dedicated work space. I do have a 1000 sqft barn out back - but I have yet to run electricity to it. Lucky me however, I also have a one carriage garage - and this does have electricity! unfortunately it also has a gravel floor, no work bench, no tool chest, nor anything except for beer that would aid in the resurrection of the mighty 950.



so the first night I get it home and just sort of take inventory.





if any of you FFs recognize anything let me know where it goes and what it does.
specifically the top bracket/bolt


here is everything that came with the bike. most of it I have a feeling will be in the flea market soon.




the plan, is to do whatever needs to be done in order to get this baby running for as little coin as possible (without being too KLR about it). then commute for one season - make sure it is what I want. then sink what should be my kids college fund and most of my 401k into it.

it is at this point in the program however, I feel I should bring to light the fact of which I have never turned a wrench on a 950.
not once have i even caught a peek up under a big orange dress.
I know not of this strange and foreign bike.


i do however have a good, steady supply of Narragansett beer, the ability to read shit posted on the internet, and a consistent track record of biting off more then I can chew.
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:27 PM   #2
Capt. REDBEARD OP
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an important note: from the seller's ad:

Quote:
bike needs to be reassembled and gone over
if you didn't read the ad carefully you might not have caught that. basically the bike was worked on, left sitting, then reassembled for the sole purpose of transporting it somewhere for proper reassembly. that means none of the wiring is connected, almost all fluid lines are disconnected, none of the throttle cables are hooked up, the carbs are not sync'd, the clutch slave and countershaft cover are flopping in the breeze, the damn axel bolts were barely hand tight.
basically, that means I am going to have to go into it as far as the PO did, and then work my way back out - manual in one hand and torque wrench in the other.

so with that in mind I am going to ask - and I am sure there will be no shortage of bench racers willing to jump in - if you see something that looks wrong please let me know. I am going to need some experienced eyes to double check my work.


off to it - last things first. let's start taking shit apart in a haphazardous fashion, whilst pretending I am going to remember where it goes when it is time to put it all back together....



i looked on the microfiche and it looks like the fuel pump is outside the tank. here - not so much. is the other petcock an inlet from the starboard tank?


a tube to nowhere?


the bike does look to be in damn good shape. in fact it is cleaner and overall in better condition then a "like new" 950 some dip-shit whistle-dick tried to sell me




de-canister'd/de-SAS'd


another den of mystery snakes...



plugs??......chime in here fellas



euro light?


previous owner said he was having trouble with the battery draining - so all non-OEM wiring was removed. it wasn't much and I was going to re-do it anyways b/c I am a little OCD like that. but it will mean no heated grips for the beginning of the season



next is the air box and carbs.
the air filter had some scorching on it from some indigestion. hopefully a re-jet will address that issue.


at this point I am getting jittery. I have owned the bike for several weeks and I haven't bought anything for it..............
so I make a purchase: oil and air filters.very sensible.
while being in the sensible mood that i was, i kept on being sensible and ordered the manual too.



even with the damn assembly instructions there seem like a lot of loose ends to figure out






is that red dead head OEM? it sure doesn't look it - but there is another in the wiring harness up under the dash.
red one - port side rear upper subframe

brown one - port side instrument cluster



a little corrosion on one of the cooling lines - shouldn't be an issue - but documented here for posterity


homebrew pipectomy - I have a sneaky suspicion this and the de-SASing are responsible for the poor running conditions described by the PO.


ohh good. my first chance to order some anodized aluminum.


cotter pin-less too. if I am going to have to order that - might as well update the whole push rod assembly and replace it when I go in to check on the clutch pressure plate bolts (TB 0804)


getting there.......


the pile of parts continues to grow


It is at this point I realize I need some bigger allen head sockets. 12mm and 14mm.

alright - how deep into the woods are we and how do we get out:

TO DO:

open up carbs and re-jet -- ADV workshop jet kit is installed in only one
forks - seals and oil change
inflate tires - front and rear to check tubes
freewheel bolt TSB
clutch pressure plate TSB
update clutch pushrod and install new seal
install metal gasket at exhaust headers
check valves
replace and top off all fluids
torque all bolts

TO BUY:

fork oil
fork seals
oil
coolant
clutch slave
hydraulic fluid
front blinkers
battery
mirrors
more beer

can anyone think of anything else?
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if the ocean were whiskey and I were a duck - I'd swim to the bottom and never come up
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:31 PM   #3
smj
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I would think that if you offer enough beer, you just might have folks showing up at the garage to help you work on it...
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:48 PM   #4
Scott Baja
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:05 PM   #5
It'sNotTheBike
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. REDBEARD View Post
can anyone think of anything else?


The best aftermarket clutch slave is the Sigutech one.
Buy the best once, it ends up costing less in the long run.

http://sigutech.com/index.php?option...d=18&Itemid=36

or :


http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-sigutech...slave-cylinder



Pentosin CHF 11 is a good choice for fluid in the clutch system. Any shop which deals
with Mercedes or Audi cars should have some. The 11 is synthetic and maintains its
viscosity over a wider temperature range. It costs far less than that Magura Blood
fluid which is not even as good.

http://www.pentosin.net/pressrelease..._CHF11S_V3.pdf


http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4184&ppt=C0031




A Renazco seat. Yeah they are expensive. And until you
put in a long day you won't know why. Afterward
you will. They don't feel so comfortable when you sit
on one at first, but later your butt doesn't hurt at all
and that is how you know how good they are.



A Shindengen MOSFET voltage regulator. The OEM one
can wreck an expensive battery in a few minutes when it
fails. You will notice I said "when" and not "if, and that is
because the OEM regulator is an inferior design which
tends to kill itself due to the excess heat it produces during
operation.

This guy is my preferred voltage regulator supplier,
and his kits are absolutely first rate. He also sells
a very cool charge voltage indicator LED which weighs next to nothing and
can alert you to an over voltage condition quickly.

http://roadstercycle.com/



An Antigravity battery. Not a Shorai, because they lack the onboard
electronics which help the battery achieve a balanced charge and that means
the only way to charge them properly is using a special charger. Also, a Shorai WILL
fail if it is submerged in water, but an Antigravity will not. The OEM Yuasa is a good battery
too if you don't care about weight and are willing to leave it on a trickle charger when
the bike won't be ridden for long intervals.


http://www.ktm950.info/how/Electrica...batteries.html



.

It'sNotTheBike screwed with this post 03-18-2013 at 08:28 PM
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:12 PM   #6
zgfiredude
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Ah, I will watch with interest, and can offer to take photos of anything you need off of my 06 950S (that is all in one piece)

I will be digging in a little to mine, so I may be able to help some with wiring, etc.

It looks like you really do need the more beer that you mentioned, as I see that the recycle bin is quite full!! Something tells me that this will work out in your favor, and you will be a happy camper in the end.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:20 PM   #7
pdxmotorhead
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Location: Portland OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. REDBEARD View Post
an important note: from the seller's ad:

Make sure you read ALL the Canisterectomy stuff in the HOW.. It helped me sort out a fairly butchered up venting and line setup. Funny several things there are similar to minor nits I had to fix on the 06 I just bought a couple months ago. Its the twin of yours and I bought it in Poulsbo,, :) ...

if you didn't read the ad carefully you might not have caught that. basically the bike was worked on, left sitting, then reassembled for the sole purpose of transporting it somewhere for proper reassembly. that means none of the wiring is connected, almost all fluid lines are disconnected, none of the throttle cables are hooked up, the carbs are not sync'd, the clutch slave and countershaft cover are flopping in the breeze, the damn axel bolts were barely hand tight.
basically, that means I am going to have to go into it as far as the PO did, and then work my way back out - manual in one hand and torque wrench in the other.

so with that in mind I am going to ask - and I am sure there will be no shortage of bench racers willing to jump in - if you see something that looks wrong please let me know. I am going to need some experienced eyes to double check my work.


off to it - last things first. let's start taking shit apart in a haphazardous fashion, whilst pretending I am going to remember where it goes when it is time to put it all back together....



i looked on the microfiche and it looks like the fuel pump is outside the tank. here - not so much. is the other petcock an inlet from the starboard tank? Yes, the small oneis the crossover tube that connects to the other tank at the same point. The bigger valve is connected to the fuel pump inlet.


a tube to nowhere? Either the crossover tube, or the side tank vent hose...


the bike does look to be in damn good shape. in fact it is cleaner and overall in better condition then a "like new" 950 some dip-shit whistle-dick tried to sell me




de-canister'd/de-SAS'd


another den of mystery snakes...



plugs??......chime in here fellas The orange plug is the ECS/SAS plug on my bike.. Not used after full canister/SAS/ECS ectomy.




euro light? Euro uses two halogen bulbs, H3 and H7 yours looks just like my a standard headlight.


previous owner said he was having trouble with the battery draining - so all non-OEM wiring was removed. it wasn't much and I was going to re-do it anyways b/c I am a little OCD like that. but it will mean no heated grips for the beginning of the season

Looks like a oddesey battery.


next is the air box and carbs.
the air filter had some scorching on it from some indigestion. hopefully a re-jet will address that issue.


at this point I am getting jittery. I have owned the bike for several weeks and I haven't bought anything for it..............
so I make a purchase: oil and air filters.very sensible.
while being in the sensible mood that i was, i kept on being sensible and ordered the manual too.

As deep as your into it.. I just did much of this stuff I did the CJ waterpump full kit.. (Same OCD gene.... :) )


even with the damn assembly instructions there seem like a lot of loose ends to figure out


FYI its a BIT** to get the front head-pipe off without first pulling the heat shield,, bad news the 3 bolts are very likely seized in their holes.. I had to drill 2 of the 3 out..




is that red dead head OEM? it sure doesn't look it - but there is another in the wiring harness up under the dash.
red one - port side rear upper subframe

brown one - port side instrument cluster



a little corrosion on one of the cooling lines - shouldn't be an issue - but documented here for posterity


homebrew pipectomy - I have a sneaky suspicion this and the de-SASing are responsible for the poor running conditions described by the PO.


ohh good. my first chance to order some anodized aluminum. ( Dont forget to purge all the hydraulics.. )


cotter pin-less too. if I am going to have to order that - might as well update the whole push rod assembly and replace it when I go in to check on the clutch pressure plate bolts (TB 0804)


getting there.......


the pile of parts continues to grow


It is at this point I realize I need some bigger allen head sockets. 12mm and 14mm.

alright - how deep into the woods are we and how do we get out:

TO DO:

open up carbs and re-jet -- ADV workshop jet kit is installed in only one
forks - seals and oil change
inflate tires - front and rear to check tubes
freewheel bolt TSB
clutch pressure plate TSB
update clutch pushrod and install new seal
install metal gasket at exhaust headers
check valves
replace and top off all fluids
torque all bolts

TO BUY:

fork oil
fork seals
oil
coolant
clutch slave
hydraulic fluid
front blinkers
battery
mirrors
more beer

can anyone think of anything else?
Cheers!
Dave
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:37 PM   #8
Capt. REDBEARD OP
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Joined: Oct 2008
Location: buzzards bay
Oddometer: 1,074
Quote:
Originally Posted by It'sNotTheBike View Post
The best aftermarket clutch slave is the Sigutech one.
Buy the best once, it ends up costing less in the long run.

http://sigutech.com/index.php?option...d=18&Itemid=36

or :


http://www.ktmtwins.com/ktm-sigutech...slave-cylinder
i probably should have went with that one - but I got the oberon from CJ. I really like doing business with folks like CJ. He is going to see a good bit more of my $.

Quote:
Originally Posted by It'sNotTheBike View Post
A Renazco seat. Yeah they are expensive. And until you
put in a long day you won't know why. Afterward
you will. They don't feel so comfortable when you sit
on one at first, but later your butt doesn't hurt at all
and that is how you know how good they are.
I've had one - and I liked it.
if the bike gets through this summer commuting - then I will spend some coin - but for now if it ain't broke I am not going to change it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by It'sNotTheBike View Post
A Shindengen MOSFET voltage regulator. The OEM one
can wreck an expensive battery in a few minutes when it
fails. You will notice I said "when" and not "if, and that is
because the OEM regulator is an inferior design which
tends to kill itself due to the excess heat it produces during
operation.

This guy is my preferred voltage regulator supplier,
and his kits are absolutely first rate. He also sells
a very cool charge voltage indicator LED which weighs next to nothing and
can alert you to an over voltage condition quickly.

http://roadstercycle.com/



An Antigravity battery. Not a Shorai, because they lack the onboard
electronics which help the battery achieve a balanced charge and that means
the only way to charge them is using the special charger. Also, a Shorai WILL
fail if it is submerged in water, but an Antigravity will not.

http://www.ktm950.info/how/Electrica...batteries.html




.
thanks for the VR link. I am going to have to look into that. I am having trouble justifying the Shorai and it is only $30 more then the OEM.

I need to make sure the bike actually runs before I go sinking $ into it.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:40 PM   #9
Capt. REDBEARD OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead View Post
Cheers!
Dave
thanks dave - that is the type of feed back I am looking for.

I have been looking at the SAS/Canister procedures and have noted several of the plugs belong to missing hardware. I am going to have to basically do the procedures myself to ensure they were done right.

I thought the euro had two bulds and USA had only one? maybe that is on newer '05.5 and up?

I am going to hold off on the water pump until I get it running. I am going to do a fluid flush after a few hundred miles - so I will evaluate it after that. If I knew she was a runner I'd be doing the WP no questions getting this deep into it - but right now I could just be throwing good money into a bad bike......

if PO already had the pipes off - that is why the gasket if out. so hopefully no troubles there.

by "purge all hydraulics" do you just mean the bleed the clutch?
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Capt. REDBEARD screwed with this post 03-18-2013 at 08:47 PM
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:38 PM   #10
Qwik
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That small white plug on the left side of the bike is for the fuel gauge (Inside the left tank) the tube to nowhere is the crossover tube from the opposite side and is what makes the tanks drain evenly. The Two hoses joined together in the De-Canistered/de-SAS'd pic are the carb Vacuum balance lines and should be individually capped off not joined together. The Den of Snakes pic includes the Fuel crossover tube (The Longer smaller diameter one) and the Main Fuel line (Shorter but larger diameter one) that hooks to the petcock that is closer to the rear of the bike.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:58 AM   #11
Sadlsor
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Location: Magic City in the Heart of Dixie
Oddometer: 690
You'll be fine with the Oberon, and I +1 / ditto letting CJ help you with this. I installed the Obie last week for a gnarly offroad trip and had no problems. And I am probably less of a wrench than you.

Also, the seat is one of your last priorities, as you noted. There will be plenty of demands for depleting cash on hand, before you get to sit there and twist that.

Seems like you have an outstanding opportunity to learn about this bike, so take your time, and I'm betting on you to get it sorted out.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:06 AM   #12
Gustavo.Ramos
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Location: Accross the pond
Oddometer: 696
Lookin at this...

Miss my 950....
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:17 AM   #13
Stephen
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Location: Austin, Texas, USA
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A few of things that you should find encouraging–not that you need encouragement.. indeed, seems you lack that little cartoon angel on your shoulder that's always saying, "Noooo, nooo, don't go in there!" Um, let's see, what was I saying?

Oh, yeah, first and most important, they really only go together one way, so you've got that going for you.

I've found the 950 to be more pleasant and pleasing to work on than any mechanical device I've ever taken apart. The engineers and designers were expecting us. If something is maddeningly fiddly then there's probably another, better way to do it. You've already found out how easily it all comes apart. I have an 04 and even though it's a first production year, it's been the best bike I've ever had.

The manual is pretty good, especially the electrical schematic and the photo index of all the connectors, every one of'em.

Another plus: you get to buy some exotic new tools!

I'm thinkin' your biggest worry is that gravel floor. Hope you have a really powerful magnet.

Oh, one more thing: the dealer will have a fork rebuild kit that has seals and bushings (and other stuff) for a third of the cost of the individual parts. Get it. It will also update your forks to current parts list. You'll throw away some bushings and spacers that are in there now.
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Old 03-19-2013, 08:12 AM   #14
akarob
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Hey Red, congrats on your new beastly Adventure. If you need me to bring mine over to look at, let me know. I have a manometer if you need to borrow something to sync the carbs.

Good luck sorting all the tubes and plugs. I hope you get it running well soon. I'm bringing my 990 to Pachaug on April 27/28, think about it.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:26 AM   #15
CRW
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https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...0/P1020724.JPG

That long bolt/bracket looks to be the rear mount for the old style SWmotech crash bars. It feeds thru the swing arm bolt and spaces out to mount the bars.
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