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Old 06-30-2013, 09:12 AM   #61
muttley92 OP
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A quick update. The camshaft has been changed! The engine is back together with fresh water pump seals too. It should be back in the frame tomorrow. I have a higher pressure rad cap to put on and a filler neck to make up before it will run again. And then the tank needs sealing. Should be a good week
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Old 07-13-2013, 12:40 PM   #62
muttley92 OP
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It runs! No nasty knocks or noises this time. Will soon have it back together. The tank has been sealed and should be leak proof. I've made up a battery box and had to relocate the filler neck, just waiting on some rad hoses and it'll be ready to mot! Can't wait to ride this thing!
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:18 PM   #63
Kennon
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good to hear how far its come now.
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Old 07-13-2013, 02:46 PM   #64
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That's a great job mate.
Agree with others regarding the front engine mounts versus vibrations though.
Keep an eye on that.
Once that LC4 starts to rev you'll feel it.
I've had 2 LC4's now.....620SC & the 640 Adventure
Bracing those mounts with some strips would be good insurance.
Make sure that oil tank is filled and bled correctly.

There's a great link on here on that subject:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57107

Also put some wheely bars on it.....you wont be able to keep the front wheel down...HaHaHa!

Will be great to see it run....please youtube.
Cheers from Australia.
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Old 07-22-2013, 05:17 AM   #65
muttley92 OP
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Still waiting on cooling hoses so i knocked up a temporary system to run it up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I71EnqFUtU4
I'm not sure the temperature guage on the koso clocks read correctly though. It reckons 160C before the rad is even slightly warm and I somehow doubt it. May have to run a temp lowering coolant in it.

On the other hand I bough a haiju battery which is excellent.

It weighs 670g! No joke and was a very reasonable 75.99 it's around 110CCA and has a useful little tester button on top. It doesn't drop off like lead acid batteries do as they crank and it starts the bike no problem.
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Old 07-22-2013, 06:15 AM   #66
dnrobertson
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Just found this thread and was going to suggest you go with one of the higher lift cams for more performance, but no point now.

Build looks nice.
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Old 07-23-2013, 07:08 PM   #67
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muttley92 View Post
Sam, the wrap is only a tenner, well worth it I think.
Clint, thanks is for that, I'll make sure its full before starting it.
Kennon, im in Loughborough until the end of term.
I've found a guy in Hinckley that does self supporting carbon seat units with integral tanks that reckons he can seal mine inside as im not convinced it won't leak.
Is his name Richard by chance ? If so, small world.....he's my BIL.
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Old 07-24-2013, 12:55 PM   #68
muttley92 OP
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It was indeed. Funny how small the world is really, especially in building bikes. My tank is now leak proof for reference. My cooling hoses have arrived, hoping to test the bike tomorrow depending on the weather.
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:37 AM   #69
muttley92 OP
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Jetting question

So I took the bike up the road today and it is going to be awesome! wheelies in second no problem... However it is a sod to start when it's hot! I've never actually managed it yet, just to flatten the battery (and it's a long push home). Does anyone know roughly what the jetting is for an FCR 41 with performance exhaust and a cone filter on it? It would be much appreciated.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:22 AM   #70
pennswoodsed
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HOLY COw!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dnrobertson View Post
Just found this thread and was going to suggest you go with one of the higher lift cams for more performance, but no point now.

Build looks nice.
More performance ?!? wouldn't it already have twice the hp and 3-4 times the torque of the original engine ?
Best,Ed
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:11 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pennswoodsed View Post
More performance ?!? wouldn't it already have twice the hp and 3-4 times the torque of the original engine ?
Best,Ed
Yeah, maybe so. But, if replacing the cam anyway... More is better, ya know...
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Old 07-25-2013, 12:51 PM   #72
muttley92 OP
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5 times the capacity, 4 times the power and 3 times the toque just all over the rev range rather than in 2k at the top just need to sort out the carb settings
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Old 07-26-2013, 11:56 AM   #73
yokesman
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try starting when hot with the fuel valve closed and no throttle.
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:32 PM   #74
kellymac530
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Valve adjustment !!!

On every Lc4 motor I have owned, 3 of them from 400 to 620, if the valves were out of adjustment even a little they were a bear to start especially when hot. It was worse when I swapped to FCR carb from the Mikuni CV on my 400...what a PITA.

Really good valve adjustments always helped and once I got used to the Lc4's that is how I knew it was time to adjust the valves....that is all given that the jetting is right....Valve adjustments are a simple starting point though.
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:34 AM   #75
muttley92 OP
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The clearances were done when the camshaft was replaced. Sorted the hot start issue by taking the air screw out by a half turn. The current jetting is 168, 85, 45. I might go a size or two up on the main depending on a proper test ride after the cooling is sorted. The cooling problem has been put down to the water level in the rad being below the level of the pump, need to make a header tank or get a secondary electric water pump. I'm in Germany for the formula student event at the moment and will be back Monday. Hoping to make some progress then.

muttley92 screwed with this post 08-03-2013 at 07:26 AM
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