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Old 04-10-2013, 07:49 AM   #16
Guano11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADW View Post
....can go "full Hiroshima" by flipping on the outer two banks if I really need to light it up.
LOL
Watching with interest; I'll be throttling up my garage lighting as well using the (unswitched) ceiling outlets intended for the garage door openers.
Are there any remote on/off switching options, or am I relegated to pull cords? I'm not in a position to re-wire those outlets as switched...
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guano11 View Post
LOL
Watching with interest; I'll be throttling up my garage lighting as well using the (unswitched) ceiling outlets intended for the garage door openers.
Are there any remote on/off switching options, or am I relegated to pull cords? I'm not in a position to re-wire those outlets as switched...
Home Despot and Radio Snack both have radio-actuated remotes for stuff like this . . . the unit plugs into the outlet, and the remote (looks like a keychain unit for your car) turns it on or off --

find an employee whose skin has cleared up and ask . . . . .I have one controlling the exteriror lights on our garage . . . with a range of approx 50 feet, it works great.

Also, wrt bugs -- I picked up a screen for the garage door (8 X 20 foot) . . .it is the height of luxury to work out in the Entropy Lab on a summer's night and NOT have bugs everywhere. Just sayin . . . . ..
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:40 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bomber60015 View Post
Also, wrt bugs -- I picked up a screen for the garage door (8 X 20 foot) . . .it is the height of luxury to work out in the Entropy Lab on a summer's night and NOT have bugs everywhere. Just sayin . . . . ..
I plan to get one now that I brew beer exclusively in the garage now
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:21 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by 30Bones
So did you keep the same housings and convert those to LED? Pics, links would be helpful. Same sized garage and high ceilings make it tougher to light well and I hate having lights hang 3' from the ceiling when winds pick up with the door open.
Yes, I kept the same housings and converted them. Unlike fluorescents, LED bulbs are powered by connecting the 'hot' wire to one pin on one end and the neutral wire to the corresponding pin on the other. LED bulbs do have four pins, two on each end, just like fluorescent bulbs. This is only so that the bulbs will work in a fluorescent fixture (that requires four pins). I can take some pictures of the fixtures, if you would like. What you'll see is one fixture converted to LED with two 6000-6500K (brite white) bulbs compared to a fluorescent fixture with 4000K (soft white) bulbs. I did not convert one fixture because I've never had any issues with it. It's still on the original bulbs and ballast. I expect it will fail, some time, in the future. At that time, I'll re-wire the fixture and replace the fluorescent bulbs with LEDs. If you'd like, I can provide a wiring diagram. I also converted a fluorescent fixture over my basement work bench. This fixture did not have a ballast as I know them. It had an arrangement at each end where the hot/neutral wires went to a coil/magnet which also had a transistor wired in-line. Sorry if I'm not describing it well. I simply re-wired that fixture so that one end was 'hot' and the other neutral for only one LED bulb as the 4000K (soft white) was plenty illumination.

My garage has a 12' ceiling and the fixtures hang on 12" chains. I have never had the fixtures sway from the wind as they're slightly above the garage door when it's in the open, mostly horizontal, position.

I sourced the bulbs from Earth Energy Solutions. You can order on-line or call and speak with Donna. Full disclosure: this company is owned by my brother-in-law. He is a professional engineer in Denver. A lot of the products that he sells are used/installed in his own home (esp. the LED bulbs). He stands behind what he sells. And, for those curious, I paid retail for the bulbs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chollo9
Interesting info, Bronco, I'll have to check that out. No matter what fluorescents you buy, you will be replacing bulbs and ballasts down the road . . ..
That's what I figured. But, one fixture has been a "rock" so far. Of course, now that I've posted something like this, it'll fail post haste....
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:30 AM   #20
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Lighting calculators: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=50546

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Old 04-10-2013, 11:57 AM   #21
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Whatever you go with, AVOID the two-tube 4' flourescents in the huge end displays at the big box stores like the plague.

As already mentioned, they are noisy, and won't fully light in cool temperatures. Plus, they are of poor quality and you will be replacing ballasts more often than lamps. You will be lucky to have 75% of them light up when you flip the switch.

Try to buy a decent brand like Lithonia. Expect to spend about $30 per fixture. The money you save on cheaper fixtures goes right out the window when you have to keep swapping ballasts to keep them alive.
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:44 AM   #22
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Lighting stinks with the door closed (I wish it had windows), but with full perimeter shelves I finally have room for a bike again!



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Old 04-11-2013, 07:40 AM   #23
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I strongly recommend for the best downfiring brightest light that you can get that you get yourself 3x Phillips Tornado 23 watt light globes, they are the BEES KNEES when you put them into a cheap plastic reflector.

Even the older 40 watt tube flourescents aren't anywhere near as bright as one of these Tornado globes, and I've gone through TONS of CFL's and I even ran 6x 40 watt flourescent tubes for a 4 foot aquarium = 240 watts of 4' tube flourescent light. These Tornado's once warmed up are the brightest I've ever come across, reliable too.

I'm serious about this, 23 watts per tube = 106 watts each (They're tons brighter than a 100 watt Halogen) in incandescent terms, x3 is a TON of light for a shed, and it doesn't have to bounce off the walls, it is going to come straight down onto your work where you need it to be because of the plastic reflectors, which is the MOST IMPORTANT THING, you don't want light bouncing from your walls, its not a mirror, so thats just going to be wasting a lot of light!

Another good point is that its 3x directions that the light is coming from, so when you are working on something, YOU SEE EVERY DETAIL, no more shadows yay!

Or get six, I had to light up a huge shed and the only thing that would light it sufficiently so that you could get it as bright as daylight outdoors was these globes and six of them was actually TOO much light, it started hurting my eyes at night haha, I installed a second switch so I could turn off 3 of them!

Your shed will light up like it was daytime, at any time of the day, the best part is that standard light sockets are really easy to install, 2 screws and you're done, in comparison to having a friend hold up the older style of flourescents.

And in the future when its time to eventually go to LED, the Edison socket/Bayonet socket are the ones which will get the best of LED, so it will simply be a matter of replacing a globe.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6Pack-Phi...item3f23f99c7f



Notice how bright it is, this was taken at night time:


Notice in this photo, the two completely seperate shadows on the desk of the outline of the Yaesu FT-101B, And just how well lit the Marantz 2275 is in the background:

Light here is without a reflector, notice all of the wasted light on the roof: (The desk lamp as shown in this picture holds a 40 watt incandescent, for when I want to give my eyes a rest!)
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freax screwed with this post 04-11-2013 at 08:32 AM
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:41 AM   #24
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LED Bug Attraction?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoodcounty View Post
Since I like a LOT of light, I went to LED bulbs in the 7000 kelvin range.
For the car/truck area I use Par 38 7000K LED floods.

Best part of the deal is that with the doors open, LED produces no UV, which means no bugs.
Got excited when I read ^^this^^ -- too good to be true?

This chart indicates that white light LEDs emit enough UV to attract bugs:



"....Confirming that, yes, white LEDs produce a significant amount of blue light, which also attracts bugs --"


In contrast, this chart below is from a site that supports the "LEDs do NOT attract bugs" theory:



Looks like the jury's still out on whether or not household LEDs attract bugs. It would be useful to know what Kelvin range(s) are most susceptible to bug attraction -- if any.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:57 PM   #25
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Some of our sales guys sell these to users such as DFW Airport, commercial buildings for parking lot use, etc:
So we get to observe large quantity installations of various kelvin outputs and LED driver technology.
This in addition to all the LED stuff at my home in the real rural part of the county is just kind of seat of the pants stuff but thus far the only thing these lights have attracted is a very small white moth.

If I were in the sales end I'd know more of the technical aspect but have seen some other evidence by measuring LED agains HPS witha light meter.
While the LED in use was clearly overpowering the HPS, the LED showed far lower lumen rating.
Meter mfg told us that part of the equation is uv spectrum light and they'd seen this disparity frequently when meters are used on LED source lights.

On the other hand...........you're on your own with mosquitos. Ours are large enough to have tail numbers and marker lights.
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Old 04-11-2013, 10:16 PM   #26
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You guys wanna attract moths and insects? Just get a black light and point it upwards at night.

You'll get tons of them in short order. Especially if you use a white sheet and hang it up near to it so most of the black light shines onto it.

They make good grub for lizards
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:00 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_gr8t_waldo View Post
A lot depends on what hight you'll be hanging these new fixtures. For my money its t8's at 6-8ft above the floor. As an example of how over board a guy can go, in my 20x20garage. I have 128linear foot of t8's ( 6-8' aff) have to say working under thoes conditions, is a shear joy!!!
Wow. My shop is 19' x 19' and I have just half that, 64 linear feet of T8 32w tubes. I thought it was bright as can be. But after reading this, I went out and looked and damn, it's dark in there!
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:32 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freax View Post
I strongly recommend for the best downfiring brightest light that you can get that you get yourself 3x Phillips Tornado 23 watt light globes, they are the BEES KNEES when you put them into a cheap plastic reflector.

Even the older 40 watt tube flourescents aren't anywhere near as bright as one of these Tornado globes, and I've gone through TONS of CFL's and I even ran 6x 40 watt flourescent tubes for a 4 foot aquarium = 240 watts of 4' tube flourescent light. These Tornado's once warmed up are the brightest I've ever come across, reliable too.

I'm serious about this, 23 watts per tube = 106 watts each (They're tons brighter than a 100 watt Halogen) in incandescent terms, x3 is a TON of light for a shed, and it doesn't have to bounce off the walls, it is going to come straight down onto your work where you need it to be because of the plastic reflectors, which is the MOST IMPORTANT THING, you don't want light bouncing from your walls, its not a mirror, so thats just going to be wasting a lot of light!

Another good point is that its 3x directions that the light is coming from, so when you are working on something, YOU SEE EVERY DETAIL, no more shadows yay!

Or get six, I had to light up a huge shed and the only thing that would light it sufficiently so that you could get it as bright as daylight outdoors was these globes and six of them was actually TOO much light, it started hurting my eyes at night haha, I installed a second switch so I could turn off 3 of them!

Your shed will light up like it was daytime, at any time of the day, the best part is that standard light sockets are really easy to install, 2 screws and you're done, in comparison to having a friend hold up the older style of flourescents.

And in the future when its time to eventually go to LED, the Edison socket/Bayonet socket are the ones which will get the best of LED, so it will simply be a matter of replacing a globe.
Can you post a pic of the reflectors you mention in your post? Thanks.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:16 AM   #29
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Quite by accident I've discovered that side lighting is more important than lighting from above.

A friend of mine picked up a drill press and one of those twin 500W quartz lights on a stand. I was only interested in the drill press but he brought the quartz light anyway.

Let me tell you what the most used item in my shop is. I drag the thing around to the side of the bike and it is FAR superior to light hanging from the ceiling casting shadows.

It also throws off enough heat that it takes the edge off of changing needle settings in 20 degree weather, and my shop is actually a contained carport (it's open on the back to my covered porch, otherwise it looks like a garage).

Here's a pic with it on:
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:12 AM   #30
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I have been quite happy with 12 T8 32W HO bulbs in my 3-car garage.
That comes to 4 bulbs per bay, ~10x20 ft²

This is with 9' ceilings. Ceiling and walls are painted white. No windows.

After doing the first garage with the cheapest ballasts I could get I hated it. The 10 T12 bulbs @ 40W in a 2-car garage was a little much. Not that it was really bad, more light is generally always better. But there were a few times when you turned the lights on and it was a little blinding for a second. That is why I backed off from 5 bulbs per bay to only 4. But the bigger thing was I used quality ballasts this time. Looked for ones that specificly stated "no hum". HUGE difference to the quality of life in the garage. The little hum just wore on you. It was suddenly nice and peaceful in the garage when the old lights were shut off. New ones it doesn't matter.

As far as going LED. I like it. LED option wasn't even a consideration a few years ago when I did the last garage. Now the price and quality are coming around. I have ditched most of my CFLs in the house for LEDs. All the primary living spaces are now LED. At work I am having the drop lights changed from CFL to LED as they die. The next drop light in the garage will be LED. Sometimes I just get stuff before the better technology comes along. Then you have to decide weather to keep the old or update.
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