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Old 07-28-2013, 05:52 AM   #1
KHJPHOTO OP
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Better Performance with Final Drive Change?

R12GS, Ceramic Clutch and running the stock Final Drive.

Understand Max BMW has a Final Drive Kit. Has anyone changed out and what has been your experience?

Thanks.
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Old 07-28-2013, 06:02 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KHJPHOTO View Post
R12GS, Ceramic Clutch and running the stock Final Drive.

Understand Max BMW has a Final Drive Kit. Has anyone changed out and what has been your experience?

Thanks.
Apparently Duncan (Elmers old bike) has one, one can do to make it easier for the engine to move the rig saves on clutch and driveline stress and may make high gear more useable. Most US bikes are geared to high mostly to do with US noise standards I believe.I think you can get lower gears yet from Euro models.DB
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:43 AM   #3
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If not ridijng places where you need to creep the stock ratio on th e1200 isn't that bad. Riding technique should be to gas and go with little to no clutch slippage. I think BMW gears all these GS models too high knowing that most riders do not do much real off road stuff. Yes, lower gears are a plus especially with a hack but is the cost vs value really there? I am not making a statement here this is a question.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:42 AM   #4
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Thanks

Not only do I seek better low end; but also the clutch squeals on first engagement like a stuck pig even on the slightest of grade. Of course once engaged all is..."quiet"

Squeal is very embarrassing maybe I should oil it ...
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Old 07-28-2013, 09:22 AM   #5
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I put the final drive from a R900rt on my 2007 1200GSA which has a 3.0 : 1 ratio (BMW part # 33-11-7-726-893). While it did make starting off much smoother, the bike still idles in first gear at around 10mph. NOT fun when stuck in Los Angeles stop and go traffic.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:23 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by claude View Post
If not ridijng places where you need to creep the stock ratio on th e1200 isn't that bad. Riding technique should be to gas and go with little to no clutch slippage. I think BMW gears all these GS models too high knowing that most riders do not do much real off road stuff. Yes, lower gears are a plus especially with a hack but is the cost vs value really there? I am not making a statement here this is a question.
Claude you know how much this stuff costs ! None of it is reasonable your the smiles per mile guy.It's more about getting it to operate the way one wants than value, and there are foilks who are just a bit hesistant on the clutch, Karl your throwout bearing may be the squeal , on the 1150's they are in the clutch slave probably the same on the 1200.Or if it has a ceramic disc it may just need a washer removed, they usually shim the disks.DB
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Old 07-29-2013, 04:58 AM   #7
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Thanks DB I'll have to check with the mechs. Sure would be a less costly
fix!
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:00 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by claude
If not ridijng places where you need to creep the stock ratio on th e1200 isn't that bad. Riding technique should be to gas and go with little to no clutch slippage. I think BMW gears all these GS models too high knowing that most riders do not do much real off road stuff. Yes, lower gears are a plus especially with a hack but is the cost vs value really there? I am not making a statement here this is a question.
Quote:
Originally Posted by davebig View Post
Claude you know how much this stuff costs ! None of it is reasonable your the smiles per mile guy.It's more about getting it to operate the way one wants than value, and there are foilks who are just a bit hesistant on the clutch, Karl your throwout bearing may be the squeal , on the 1150's they are in the clutch slave probably the same on the 1200.Or if it has a ceramic disc it may just need a washer removed, they usually shim the disks.DB
Like I said in my post..." Not making a statement just a question".
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:57 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davebig View Post
Claude you know how much this stuff costs ! None of it is reasonable your the smiles per mile guy.It's more about getting it to operate the way one wants than value, and there are foilks who are just a bit hesistant on the clutch, Karl your throwout bearing may be the squeal , on the 1150's they are in the clutch slave probably the same on the 1200.Or if it has a ceramic disc it may just need a washer removed, they usually shim the disks.DB

Hi Guys...

Ceramic clutch

DB- you're right about the 1150's needing to remove a shim now and then till the clutch beds properly within some hefty miles accumulated, but not so with the 1200; it's a straight fit, set and go!

cheers...
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:26 AM   #10
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KHJ:

Not sure what your question[s] is [are]:
Re Final drive: The 2005-2007 stock final drive was 2.82; for 2008 and later GS/GSA 2.91. see this link for specs:

http://www.r1200gs.info/misc/specs/

Replacement final drive from MaxBMW [R900 part] is 3.0. That's not much of a change for the 2008-on bikes. I have it on my [used to be Elmer's] 2005 rig and like it, but 2.82 to 3.0 is a bigger change. Rear tire size may be able to do as much as final drive for 2008-on bikes. Ask DaveBig.

Re ceramic clutch. Mine is well broken-in [Thanks Elmer] but I still get some clutch squeal if I get sloppy and feather it too much when starting off. Claude, as usual, is right: just gas and go.

While I like the ceramic clutch I'm not sure I'd spend the money to replace stock organic. Lots of folk [most notably DirtyDR and Stroker] have been quite happy with their organic clutches and get very good mileage and performance from them.

my 2c
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:48 AM   #11
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Curiosity question for one of you final drive wizards: How does one figure out the over-all drive ratio?

I'm assuming how much torque one gets [in, for instance, first gear] is a product of the first gear ratio and the final gear ratio.

If so, should I multiply the 2 ratios together to figure out overall gear ratio?

If yes, given info from the specification link in my previous post, stock 2005 1st*final drive ratio is 2.28*2.82=6.43 while 2008 is 2.375*2.91=6.91. A 2005 with a 3.0 final drive is 2.28*3.0=6.84 [not as "good" as stock 2008].

Does any of this make sense? Or have I just demonstrated that I'm not an engineer and don't know diddly about bike gearing?

Thanks,
Duncan
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dholaday View Post
Curiosity question for one of you final drive wizards: How does one figure out the over-all drive ratio?

I'm assuming how much torque one gets [in, for instance, first gear] is a product of the first gear ratio and the final gear ratio.

If so, should I multiply the 2 ratios together to figure out overall gear ratio?

If yes, given info from the specification link in my previous post, stock 2005 1st*final drive ratio is 2.28*2.82=6.43 while 2008 is 2.375*2.91=6.91. A 2005 with a 3.0 final drive is 2.28*3.0=6.84 [not as "good" as stock 2008].

Does any of this make sense? Or have I just demonstrated that I'm not an engineer and don't know diddly about bike gearing?

Thanks,
Duncan
It's kind of a moot point Duncan they are all what they are, I don't know how many diffirent tranies they built for the 1200 but there is at least 3 for the 1150 and there is some others refered to as evo tranies. I was trying to have an OD trainie with the 1-5 from an 1150gsa byt have given up after being $800 into used bits and still not have what I needed. The diffirence between a 175/65 and a 165/80 15" tires is roughly 2 mph for the same engine speed, lower gears save clutches but so does good technique. Slipping the clutch allot pisses me off but not as much as being punished by a lotta wind and OD gears that the engine can't hope to pull reasonably but that's the way most things are geared now to lower engine speed above all else.DB
Inspite of my Anglo Saxon americanized sirname, I'm a German and I like things to work or I have to find out why its a compulsion !!!!!!
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:58 AM   #13
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Thanks guys for all the information and discussion.
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