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Old 05-18-2013, 03:42 PM   #61
JohnnyTh OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turkeycreek View Post
Hey, happy belated Syttende Mai. Great report

Thank you. Belive 19 may is a big day in Turkey. So congratulations to all Turks out there
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Old 05-20-2013, 02:40 PM   #62
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17 may is a big day in Norway. And looks like its the same here in Mahmutlar. There where lots of people for the parade. And they even closed off a street where the parade was going. It was a no parking zone, so i parked in front of the police car and they did not care at all.


After that i joined the parade riding my bike. Did not even wear my helmet but the police car that was right behind me did not mind.
My local town always try to have a police officer lead the parade but i don't think we have had one for years. The police cant afford it. Silly that there where 5 or 6 police officers escorting the parade here in Turkey.

The next day i had my bags packed and i left out apartment 2 hours before my wife did. The first one and half hour was pretty boring and hot. I had to stop a few times to buy water.
I don't know why this guy have Norway on his shirt. He did not look Norwegian nor do i believe he was on his way to Norway. Well I'm sure he have his reasons.

But after i cleared Antalya it got better. The road was more interesting, and the mountains in the distance promised more fun to come.

While i took this picture. This car zoomed past me.


yes he is on the wrong side of the road, on a three lane highway....only in Turkey..

The road was a two lane highway mostly following the jagged coastline as i drove south west towards Kas where DickyB was expecting me. I told him i would be there before 7 but it soon was clear to me that I would be late.

I had only one stop planned and that was at the Ancient city of Olympus. Approaching Olympus i was running low on fuel. And there had been so many service stations i did not take much notice. Should not be a problem i thought, there will be one shortly.

I turned off the main road and headed for Olympus. I found the historical city but no petrol station. I was a little worried as I had not seen one in a long time and it was a steep and long way back up on the main road.

The city itself was interesting, old ruins with some on going restoration and archeology digs.






Ongoing dig.


I walked the full length of the city and at the end there where a beach, busy with people enjoying the sunny and warm day.



I got back on the bike and carried on towards Kas. And after 7 km's i got more gas. 21 liters to be exact. So no problem there was still one liter left. I will try not to cut it this close again.

I sent DickyB a text saying i would be late and I pushed on.

Great scenery like this all the way


After Finike the road just got better. It was no longer a two lane road but it was hugging the coastline and had some great tight curves. The road its self was cut into the cliff side. Sadly i dont have any pictures from this. This is one of the best roads i have seen. And im glad DickyB invited me to i got to ride this road.

I reached DickyB's area after it was dark and did not find his house. I searched for a bit before called him. He rode out on one of his bikes and found me. His Wife served a wonderful dinner.

Next day i go off roading for the first time ever.
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Old 05-20-2013, 09:06 PM   #63
Toiretto
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Great RR and images! Some roads look really challenging. Thank you for sharing.
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Old 05-20-2013, 10:12 PM   #64
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Next morning i was served a full english breakfast. I did not expect that in Turkey.

After a litte while we went down to is garage and i got to pick a bike. I went for the 250 Honda. And at first i thought oh my god. Can i ride this. It was so tiny compared to anything i have been on before. But after a while i was ok on it and when we hit the trails i was feeling like a pro. well, mayby not a pro but atleast not like a total noob. This was my first real offroad experience (i did a little in my late teens on a 50 ccm)
I dont know where we where or what towns we went thru so il just let the pictures speak for its self.





Found this mosk in the middle of nowhere.

DickyB told me this was the summer pastures and the locals took there goats up here for the summer, and then it was like a temporary village up here. So guess they need the mosk then.
We also saw lots of goats and herders on there way up here. They would spend the better part of a week to reach this area. We did it in a couple of hours.





I even befrended this guy along the road.


He was hissing at me at first but after a little while stuck his head out and said hi.

Its the first time i have seen one. And they really do look like dinosaurs.





This morning i had not made up my mind if i wanted to move on after out ride or spend another night. But the i was a little tired after the ride and the dinner sounded so tempting so i decided to stay one more night and leave in the morning.

DickyB have a thread on here if you want to see more of these roads and trails.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=374143

Next day is the warmest day ever and i got to see more old rocks.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:19 AM   #65
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I forgot to mention that the pictures with me in the picture is taken by DickyB. He is a good at this picture stuff so only right i mention it.

I have not been able to find anywhere they sell a SDcard reader for apple (you can get anything else) so unless i manage to scavange a reader somwhere there will be a delay.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:19 AM   #66
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Yay, new card reader!


Next mornng DickyB served me a full english breakfast again. I told he he did not need to and we could just keep is simple. His reply was that when would i have a full english next time, and of curse he was right. After i had eaten and packed my bags I said goodbye to him and hs wife. And the cats. And the dogs. Specially my new best friend Muffins.



This turned out to be another hot day. With temperatures reaching 40C I don't have anything telling me the temperature but along the road there was one of them signs telling you the time and temperature. And it said it was 35C.


This was not even close to the hottest place so it must have bee 40C at least some places. And i was struggling to stay hydrated. Every time i stopped i would buy 2 bottles of water. one to drink straight away and one for the road.

A few hours up the coast i found another ancient ruin city. And this to was Xanthos and a UNESCO site. I had a quick walk around the city. It was not big but it was nice. Its strange to think about that when the Romans where here these streets was already old.







I had still not decided on the route. One option was to Bodrum and then ferry to Kos and another ferry to Greece mainland. Another Adv-rider was coming that was as i was heading east. But i did not know any scedule. Other option was to head north west to Izmir. A big city on the west coast. If i did go that way i could see Ephesus and the Remains of the temple of Artemis.

I went for the last one and heeded up the coast.

Another winding road hugging the coast sometime and going over mountains at other times. There where also some boring stretches of flat farming plains in between but not to much. But on one of those boring straight road i was pulled over by the police again. Radar he told me.. Radar. I was confused. I have a Garmin Zumo 660 and it tell me the speed limits. I know i cant trust it 100% but i use it as a rough guide. On these 2 lane roads with center barrier it normally tell me its 110 km/h, and this was one of those times. The police officer told me I did 106 in a 90 km/h zone. And gave me a ticket with 166 tl written on it. Then told me all 2 lane streets with center barrier was 90 i Turkey. Did Garmin get all of there 110 zones in Turkey wrong?

Notice that it say 166tl. And ask for your fathers name.

It was ironically that i would get a ticket because I am normally the slowest going person on the road. And evryone overtake me all the time. And i try to stay under the speed limit. But im a good law abiding biker so at the next bank i pulled over to pay the fine.

After all i want to be able to come back to Turkey. The first bank just looked at me and told me no, no, next bank. I walked to the next bank and he started to type it into is computer. Then he said no no problem. Apparently my bikes registration number was not in The Turkish system. so he could not help me pay the ticket. I think thats kinda silly. If i got the ticket and im the one paying it, why would it matter what bike it was.
Well i have to look into it again at the border. But im getting ahead of myself here. Before this happened i went to see Epheseos.

I parked across the street from some souvenir shop and as soon as i had my helmet off he called for me. But not the normal thing: come buy stuff, But his first words where nice bike, how much is it. They all ask how much its worth. I replyed like I always do, 10 000 Euros. Witch is of curse not true, in Norway a new one will cost you more then 30 000 Euros. He then pointed to this phone and told me 2010 model in Turkey was for sale for 12 000 Euros. Mine is 2008 i replyed so its the same then. It took me by surprise that he knew i was riding a GTR (Concurse14, to you americans) There cant be that many of the GTR in Turkey so he must have had a interest in bikes. We chatted for a little and not once did he try to sell me anything. So i decided to buy a book abour Ephesos from him. And maybe he would keep an eye on the bike for me.

I had been warned that Ephesos would be crowded with tourists but it was not so bad.



Even those working there looked bored.




As you can see there is a few others but not many.
There where people from all over the world. And it looked like it was mainly bus tours as they was herded around the ancient city like flocks of sheep. To me this must me be worst form of traveling there is. Sure you get to see lots of things, but where is your freedom. Think i will stay on my bike.

The ruin city is impressive. And it must have been a impressive sight with its tall decorated buildings. It always feels strange to walk the stairs people walked more then 2000 years ago.

After the city of Ephesos i searched for the Temple of Artemis. I thought it would be in the city but it was not. It was outside about 5 km from the city. I eventually found it and even if there is only 1 and half a column left its cool to have seen one of the original 7 wonders.
This is all that remains today
Here again there where locals trying to sell stuff. And this one was a little more pushy trying to sell me a book. When i finally got thru to him that i did not want no book he offered me some old coins. Roman and Byzantium coins. The coins where cool. They looked original or at least a very good fake. I told him i did not want any as i thought it was not legal to bring them out of Turkey. No No he replayed. Its not a problem. and im sure its not a problem for him, its not him that going to smuggle them over the border. Again i turned him down and as i put my earplugs back in and put on my helmet i could hear him say 50 lira, 40 lira, 30 lira.... I just hope he one day understand that if they are a little more polite i would have spent some money. But this behavior just puts me off.

At this point i was so warm i was unsure if i wanted to go on. But the day was still young so i got back on the bike without putting my pants back on. I must have looked smart in my shorts and boots. I rode around town for a little while then stopped at a petrol station, drank my last water and put the pants back on. As i did this a bus loaded with teenagers stopped and they all went to buy something. I wanted a new bottle of water but was not interested in waiting a hour to pay so i moved on to the next service station.

The road was again a twisty road going up and down mountains. On top of one of the mountain roads i came to this valley with strange rock formations. The whole valley had stones stacked on top of each other. It was a very unusual sight, but sadly its not clear in the pictures how big they are.




As with anywhere anyone might stop there was someone trying to sell somthing




At the end of this valley was this big dam.



Nice of them to make a parking area where you get a panorama view of the dam. But it looks like half off it is about to slide down the hill.

I kept on riding until well after it was dark and then found another roadside hotel. My original plan was to camp. But i keep riding on for to long and its hard to find a campsite in the dark. Well im not very good at this camping thing on this trip. i need to improve. The hotel was simple but clean and had a air-condition unit.

I left the door open while carrying the panniers inside and got a bunch of bugs into the room. Beside that it was perfect. Even had a good wifi.


Next day i go to the beach and leave Turkey.


Sorry about the sideway pictures but im running out of power in 2 % no time to fix it..
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:14 PM   #67
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I woke up the next morning way to early. 5 in the morning is no time to be up. But at 6 i was packed and ready to go.


Not so typical for Turkey the hotel is a wood building.

This is a typical Turk hot water setup.

I dont know if it works, no hot water ever reached my room.

I set my course for Canakkale, a harbor city where the ferry to Gallipoli departs from. The road up was not so interesting, more of what i had done already. Twistys up and down the mountains and long flat plains in between.

Somewhere along the road i saw this. Looks like it was the local recycling plant. Bringing the trash here and going thru it to look for anything of value.


And more castles on the hills. I did not stop to look at any of them.

This one was on a big island

I also have a few pictures of the trucks on the road.



Notice not one single rope.


Thats a full load.


It was not so warm today, as yesterday but still reached 36C midday. I did not make any stops on the way. I will not say i had enough of Turkey, but i was ready for something new.

I found my way into the city easily and also the ferry terminal. Bought a ticket and before i knew it I was on my way out of Asia. I watched the city of Canakkale as the ferry set off and then bought a candy bar and a coke. Walked around the ferry taking pictures for the rest of the crossing. If i remember right the ticket cost less then 5 Euros.




A common sight around here, but not so commen for us from the west. Just need to be friends to hold hands, we normaly think your more then friends then.



And Im out of Asia.




As soon as i came off the ferry it was clear that this place still had its ww1 history fresh in memory. There is a big monument in a park just a little down the road from the ferry landing. The park included a life size display of soldiers in there trenches






There is also a model of the whole peninsula with all towns and cities. Around it was the history of different stages described on glass fences. I did not take the time to read it all but it was a very nice way of telling and showing the history.






As at all monuments Kemal Ataturk had a central position. He is shown on the monument carrying a wounded enemy soldier.

Ataturk Is a name of honor he received later. He would after the war move on to be Turkeys political leader and he is today considered the father of modern Turkey. And I believe he is most likely one of the greatest leaders we have had. But as a leader of the "enemy" he is not appreciated and known much in the western world. Whiteout Ataturk Turkey would maybe been like Iran is today. He took power by a militay coup and ruled untill his death and considerd a dictator. He is highly respected in turkey and it is still agains the law to insult Ataturk.



After visiting the monument and memorial i got back on the bike and took the short ride down to the castle. It did not look like it was open so i only took some pictures from the outside. Is built in a circular design i have not seen before.

There is also a more modern fort close by.

And behind that again a operative army base. Other side of the town there was also a naval base. The whole peninsular have a dense military force.

I found my way over to the west coast and the beaches where the English and New Zealanders landed.
I have a interest in military history and mainly the Normandy campaign. I have been to the beaches in Normandy and its easy to understand how tough it must have been. Here is must have been just as tough. I have a little military background and i can honestly say I'm glad Im not the one that needed to storm these hills.


Thanks to Tom Hanks and Spielberg and others most of us know what D-day in Normandy was like. But This battle was to me almost unknown. Is it because we lost this one? How about a movie from this place mister Spielberg?

In western Europe we have 5 or 6 war cemetery. Here on this peninsula there is 31. The campaign lasted nine months and the Commonwealth lost 36.000 dead. Only 9000 was identified, 13.000 unidentified and 14.000 was never found.

I did not have time to visit all the cemeteries but i did visit the one with the memorial that have Ataturk's speech engraved. Ataturk gave this speech to the first New Zealanders and Australians that visited Gallipoli after ww1. Its a typical example of Ataturk's attitude towards the west, and one of the finest speeches i have ever seen on a memorial.

There was a bus load of tourists there at the same time as i was there. I spoke a few words with a couple of them as they left and they where all from Australia. As the others left this lady sat under the tree alone.


I made sure i did not disturb her, so she could be alone with her thoughts.

The beach today was beautiful even if it had a bunker every few hundred meters. Most of them exposed as erosion had washed away the soil around them. one had even tipped over. These looks like they are from after ww1.


Turkeys navy had several ships patrolling the coast.



I left Gallipoli and was glad i did this visit. I had learned a lot about a campaign i had barley heard about before.

This was a road side diner.

I did not stop there, but later at a service station for food and apparently Fast Food in Turkey means kebab meat heated in a microwave oven.

Not the best i have tasted but it worked. They did have a high speed wifi so i got updated on some news from back home and adv-rider. Traveling sure is different these days compared to just 10 years ago.

Lots of Military trucks and army bases along the road. Soon i reached the first trucks waiting to pass the border. A total of 8 km with trucks parked bumper to bumper. Im glad i could zoom by them on the left side.

This is a picture i took on the road trying to show the blades atached to some of the trucks that is on the road in Turkey.

Some of the trucks had blades much more intimedating then this. someone told me it is a defensive weapon to scare off anyone trying to push them off the road. I dont know, but i would not want to get my leg into that. I also noticed that none of the trucks at the border had them, Guess they are not leagal in Greece.

The first thing i did was to pay my speeding ticket and for reasons unknown to me i got a discount and only payed 125 tl (55 euro).. I wonder why, but im not complaining. After i sorted the speeding ticket i saw some Italians on dual sport bikes. They clearly had some problems at the border and i tried to talk to them to see if i could help them with anything as i had just done dis crossing myself, but clearly they did not want to speak to someone that was on a sports bike.. I heard them explain to the border officer that they where going to Istanbul and then back. I wanted to say to them that they did not need dual sport bikes for that. You could do it on a wespa, i even meet a guy doing just that when i had a stop at a rest area on my way to Istanbul. But they where so fitted out with all the bits form Turatech so i would not want to hurt there feelings. I hope they managed to cross the border in the end.

Crossing from Turkey to Greece was different to any border crossing i had done in the past. Lots of paperworks, but there was also a military checkpoint. I don't know what he was looking for as he only stopped random cars and busses and did not even look at me.

Where other countries might have a tax free shop the turks had a army base. So remember to buy your cigarets before leaving Turkey.

Before entering Greece there was a decontamination bath to go thru, to wash the tires before the pass port control. He had a quick look at my Norwegian pass and said Norway and waved me on. A little more relaxed on this side.

I soon found myself on a highway going west. This highway is one of the best, if not the best highway i have ever been on. But there was one strange thing. Do you notice it in the next three pictures.






Where is everybody? I was all alone for most of the time. Rarely there was a car coming the other way. In the first 30 min i meet 2 cars coming the other way. I was looking for a place to stop to put my ear plugs in, but suddenly i realized i did not need to pull over for it. I could just stop in the middle of the road. I even stopped in the fast lane to take pictures.

The highway crossed a few boring farmland plains but also crossed a few mountain ranges.


I stayed on the highway until i Reached Thessaloniki, I had done more the 1000km that day and was tired. I stopped at the first hotel i fund and got a room there. I had a shower and then a short walk in the city before i went back to the hotel. To tired to do anything else.

Next day i do my biggest navigational error ever.

JohnnyTh screwed with this post 05-30-2013 at 12:46 AM
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:19 AM   #68
Dickyb
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"The first thing i did was to pay my speeding ticket and for reasons unknown to me i got a discount and only payed 125 tl (55 euro).. I wonder why, but im not complaining."

If you pay your fine within seven days you get a 25% discount
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:27 AM   #69
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Awesome! Thanks for sharing
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Old 05-30-2013, 05:28 AM   #70
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Thanx, nice to know someone is reading

Dickyb thank you for explaining, i thought it was my good looks.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:44 PM   #71
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Great reading

I'm really enjoying your report, as I'm planning a ride from western Germany to the Turkish coast later this year. Waiting until July when it's good a warm! You have added lots of things to my list of places to go see. Thanks for the efforts you put into this and please, keep it coming!
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:59 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyTh View Post
On these 2 lane roads with center barrier it normally tell me its 110 km/h, and this was one of those times. The police officer told me I did 106 in a 90 km/h zone. And gave me a ticket with 166 tl written on it. Then told me all 2 lane streets with center barrier was 90 i Turkey. Did Garmin get all of there 110 zones in Turkey wrong?
I have no idea if that has changed recently, but a few years ago the speed limit for motorbikes was significantly below the (posted) limits for cars. Google yields 70, 80, 90 - or even up to 120kph on roads like that, depending on the source.

These low speed limits implied that on a secondary road, you could be fined just for traveling with the flow ...Wikipedia states 90 and 110 (depending on the license?) for expressways - and that a change is expected in 2010. So again, not very helpful.

By the way, nice read!
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Old 05-31-2013, 03:34 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by pip_muenster View Post
I have no idea if that has changed recently, but a few years ago the speed limit for motorbikes was significantly below the (posted) limits
I had heard that as well but ignored it. It was not mention when pulled over.
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:22 AM   #74
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This is a great RR! Thanks so much for taking the time to take us along with you. Maybe a word from Dickyb or other Turkish riders would clarify the speed limit situation in Turkey? Guys?
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Old 05-31-2013, 07:37 AM   #75
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Here you go (slowly)

from
http://www.resmi-gazete.org/tarih/20100901-6.htm (turkish link)

For Motorbikes (category : L3)
Urban: 50km/h
Single carriageway: 80km/h
Dual carriageway: 90km/h
Motorway: 100km/h

all km/h NOT mph

You are allowed a 10% margin before you get clobbered for a fine except on motorways where there is zero tolerance for speeding, apparently

PS L3 refers to large motorbikes.
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