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Old 04-30-2013, 04:52 AM   #16
Gustavo.Ramos
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Qwik View Post
I was running 10-40 and noticed my engine is a LOT Noisier with it.
what oil are you using?
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:20 PM   #17
men8ifr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gustavo.Ramos View Post
what oil are you using?
I think KTM spec a XX-50w in the heat because the bike needs it - I think if they could use the much more common XX-40w they would (and it would improve power/fuel economy a bit)

So if its hot 25deg + I'd put 50w oil in.

if you need to keep the current oil check the clutch is not slipping by accelerating hard on the road for 1 or 2 sec at 4000rpm or more - if the rev needle rises quickly and goes back down when you back off the power the clutch is slipping.

The 950 clutch is sensitive - my friend burnt his out in Morocco (hot) with 10/40 in whilst offroad.
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Old 04-30-2013, 03:27 PM   #18
The Griz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by men8ifr View Post
I think KTM spec a XX-50w in the heat because the bike needs it - I think if they could use the much more common XX-40w they would (and it would improve power/fuel economy a bit)

So if its hot 25deg + I'd put 50w oil in.
This is good advice. However, I suspect your friend's clutch failing had nothing to do with his 10w-40 oil. That's a lot of speculation to blame the oil in that instance. Who knows, he could have been dragging the clutch all day without knowing it. That happened to a friend of time on his dirt bike. He kept holding onto the clutch lever with two fingers all day, thinking he was letting the lever out and fully engaging the clutch, but he wasn't.

OP, you can run 10w-40, but I agree with men8ifr that if you can get your hands on XXw-50 you'd be better off. You said you can get 20w-50 semi-synth right? If it's for motorcycles I'd go with that over the 10w-40.
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:57 PM   #19
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To OP, not sure if you know this stuff, but this will help understanding oil weights too:

Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. This page from the Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ offers the following very interesting description of how the polymers work:
At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:08 AM   #20
norschweger OP
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OP, you can run 10w-40, but I agree with men8ifr that if you can get your hands on XXw-50 you'd be better off. You said you can get 20w-50 semi-synth right? If it's for motorcycles I'd go with that over the 10w-40.
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I have 5/ 40...
Did you not say that either oil would be ok for the clutch?
Seems like if I listen to everyone here I better take a little bit of everything : )

When I was in Xela, two up, in an uphill with an almost 90 degrees bend (slowly riding) the engine died. Thought about the clutch immediately. A mechanic tried it out and confirmed his theory that it was because of the altitude, that the engine did not have enough power and the clutch would be fine...
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Old 05-08-2013, 09:02 PM   #21
norschweger OP
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tomorrow I will change the oil and the airfilter. Even though the first 1000km were actually fine I do not want to risk any unnecessary problems in the heat.
The airfilter might be the cause for the situation mentioned above.
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