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Old 05-06-2013, 09:05 AM   #16
dakman74 OP
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Los Alamos, NM
Oddometer: 46
Coming together







So it's back together, and mostly wired. For some reason I couldn't seem to get the horn button to work, even after pulling the assembly apart and checking it/cleaning it...and yes if I take the ground side of the horn directly to ground it 'beeps' like it should.

Also couldn't get the turn signals to work (gee, on the same assembly so...maybe a grounding issue?). I bolted up the shorter Bandit turnsignals on the front, and they don't look too bad but I'll most likely eventually go with small cat-eyes if I can get them to work. However the headlight low/high switch works so....any thoughts? I wired a circuit with a 2-prong flasher directly to the brown/white wire, the pink wire goes to the horn, and the turn signals/horn/headlight should all be sharing the same ground, so I'm at a loss right now.

So I didn't wire in the trailer converter to get the dual taillights to work as brake/turn signals, but the wiring is all there and should be possible.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=143546_0_0_

That's the one I bought at Autozone...it's really light and small, with plenty of length on the leads to tuck it somewhere.

The next hurdle is to figure out why the kill switch isn't working either. I checked to see if it would kill continuity when in the "off" position and it did, but it's not killing power to the headlight/taillight/coils so yeah...I have some more tracing to do. I'm thinking that might have something to do with the horns/turn signals issue, a ground loop or something going on.

While I was reconnecting the fuel lines, the bottom of the petcock came off and apparently it's just a press-fit? I put some gasoline-resistant non-curing RTV lightly on the sealing surface and re-installed as tightly as I could, going to check it this evening to see if it's a little more "snug."

After these pictures I also installed the 18" Seca wheel and it was a direct-swap, and fashioned up a padded battery hold-down. I'm still thinking about bending/welding a custom cover for that side, still not sure if I'm going to go with the factory airbox on the other side, or make a custom cover and go with the air filter that's on there already. I really want to get the voltage regulator covered/protected though.

I really don't like how low the rearend is sitting (it's about 4" from the fender when it's on the ground), I think I might have to just suck it up and do some measurements/research and see what progressive might have in the way of a longer, similarly-sprung and valved replacement shock, unless someone has seen for sure a direct-swap longer shock for these.

A few more little details and it'll at least hopefully it will be on the road for some shakedown trips.
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Old 05-06-2013, 09:34 AM   #17
16VGTIDave
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I've been told that when using painted bars, one may have to remove the paint where the controls have bare metal tabs that are supposed to touch the bars to provide a ground path.

Some bikes don't shut off the lights with the kill switch, mine doesn't...
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:37 AM   #18
dakman74 OP
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Los Alamos, NM
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Thanks, I was thinking that too, but it seemed like the little internal ground wires that "screw" to the back of the horn button and run to the turn signal switch are connected to the headlight ground. Maybe not though...I might try that, since it does seem like there are tabs on both sets of controls that MIGHT act as grounds. I did leave the bar unpainted on the right side, but since it was painted on the left, I kept it painted.

Makes me wonder though, since the bars are painted where they clamp to the mounts...where the heck would the ground "travel" even if it was bare metal under the controls?

That's good to know about the headlights...I was kind of wondering that, since I hadn't checked that on my Goldwing but I bet that is the case. I was thinking on my TW200 it did shut the light off, and on my RT1 the headlight /taillight is actually a different position on the "ignition switch" so sometimes I forget that streetbikes are different animals!
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:29 AM   #19
dakman74 OP
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Location: Los Alamos, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bk brkr baker View Post








This is my XV920RH {chain drive} that I modded for a cross country trip in '09.
I made the skid-pan because I wanted worry free gravel road travel and that worked pretty well. The weight and lack of ground clearence work against you but if you go slowly enough it works O.K.
I don't know if you plan to add pannier racks, the ones I made were fasioned from a trashed luggage rack from an ATV.
Good luck and take it places.


I like this pic of your bike...helps to get the FULL idea of that skidplate!
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:30 PM   #20
dakman74 OP
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Location: Los Alamos, NM
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So I pulled the left controls apart, cleaned the back of the horn assembly (it was a bit oxidized), re-soldered the pink wire to the center post of the horn since it was hanging by a couple strands, put it back together, and now the horn and front signals work.

After I get the kill switch issue resolved, I'll wire up the rear signals via the trailer converter, wire in the keyed on/off switch that I have, and hopefully get it on the road!

STILL can't find any info on the travel limits of the shaft-drive assembly. :-S
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:38 PM   #21
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Update...so it works...the trailer converter wiring, that is. So now I have dual taillights that will blink for the left/right signals while the other stays lit during braking. Now to find some cat-eye front signal stalks that suit the bike.

Hopefully shakedown trip tomorrow. Bike is all back together, just need to fab a small mount for the keyed on/off switch I installed.
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Old 05-11-2013, 03:50 PM   #22
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Location: Los Alamos, NM
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Maiden voyage on it today...everything seemed ok, except neither turning the key off nor using the kill switch would turn off the bike. Doing both and then giving it some throttle makes it sputter and die, but obviously the coils are still getting juice somehow after the power from the battery is disconnected. :-S

I'm still striking out on a longer replacement shock idea, other than a progressive shock. Not sure what the shaft-drive can take though! I'm dying to give it a taller rear so the stance is less "cruiser."

EDIT: Crap, after riding it to work...two issues...apparently the exhaust slipped back enough that it was lightly contacting the tire...wore a nice little (not too deep) groove around not quite the center of the tire...dangit! And it's got an oil leak from the area I'll describe below this picture:



So on the right side, the area with a cover, where the wiring is coming out...oil leak...which is unfortunately bad enough that at speed it blows oil towards the rear tire...gotta love project bikes! Anyone know what that cover is hiding and how hard it's going to be to seal it?

UPDATE: Oil Level switch and cover is what I was after...sealed with an o-ring. Pulled it off, o-ring was good but a little loose, oil-resistant RTV applied to the groove and o-ring, plus the surface below the o-ring for good measure. Letting it cure, then if it seals, never messing with it again since it's disconnected anyway! Thanks for the info. bk brkr baker!
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:16 AM   #23
Entrepre-neer
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I'm digging that headlight. Nice compact housing. I've never seen one that tapered at that front outer edge that way. cool.

Quote:
I've been told that when using painted bars, one may have to remove the paint where the controls have bare metal tabs that are supposed to touch the bars to provide a ground path.
I considered cutting that little tab off. Glad I read this. It may be important.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:24 AM   #24
Entrepre-neer
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Bars

You should steal the bars and controls from your blue bike...
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:04 PM   #25
dakman74 OP
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Los Alamos, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Entrepre-neer View Post
I'm digging that headlight. Nice compact housing. I've never seen one that tapered at that front outer edge that way. cool.


I considered cutting that little tab off. Glad I read this. It may be important.

Yeah..housing is plastic, but it's lightweight and I like the way it looks too. Thanks!



Well supposedly on the 920s it doesn't do anything, but I was told that on the XV750s that one side of the controls does ground through the bars. I have all the grounds sorted out, now just working through some other hacks the P/O had done to it.
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Old 05-15-2013, 04:09 PM   #26
dakman74 OP
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Location: Los Alamos, NM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Entrepre-neer View Post
You should steal the bars and controls from your blue bike...

Nah, that one is pretty much staying as-is, unless I get rid of the speedo/odo and maybe the taillight for something smaller. It's Off-Highway only so no need for any of the street-legal stuff, just want to keep it trail-useable...if I don't sell it in a fit of insanity.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:30 PM   #27
dakman74 OP
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Location: Los Alamos, NM
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So...boneheaded me thought that...hmm an 83 XT200 should be 12V, so didn't even think to check the bulb. Went to start it yesterday morning and the low beam was burned out. I thought, oh well...must just be from old age, shipping, etc....so flipped on the high beam and rode to work. Got to work and hey...high beam is out. Started looking online and all the XT200 batteries are 6V...ugh.

Told a co-worker about it and he says...I have an H4 upgrade for 12V yamaha dirtbikes that I can't use...do you want it? So I say hell yeah! (he also donated some passenger footpegs that I need to mount). Pulled the headlight and sure enough if you put a flashlight to it you can read 6V 35/35...drove to his garage in the evening, grab the upgrade, the footpegs, and a set of clamp-on highway pegs that I'm debating whether or not to add to the crashbars...took it all home, and with a little bit of work got the H4 upgrade mounted up. Yay...headlights again! Since the XVs originally ran an H4 bulb in the square lights, should be good to go.

Oh one other thing...the bike seems to be pretty cold-blooded in the morning, and I think the fuel feed isn't that great to the right-side carb when the bike is on the sidestand. If I get it started, then sit on the bike and stand it upright, the idle smooths out and increases a bit, like it's getting more flow to the right carb. I'm wondering if that's common with these bikes? When I first looked at the fuel line routing, I was wondering if that little bit of uphill fuel-line when it was on the sidestand was going to be an issue. You'd think the fact that the tank and petcock are still above it would negate the problem...but I'm not so sure now. Maybe it's the fact that it's got an inline filter installed?

I need to get a new picture...put on the "T-bags" tankbag that I bought cheap (half-off...$15) from the local "dealer"...I'd have paid full-price just to laugh everytime I look down at the tank and see "T-bags" :-) I wouldn't trust the suction cups anyway, so re-worked the tether strap to actually hold the bag to the tank by running it all the way down under the tank and attached to two other straps that I added to hold the back of the bag down. It's not going anywhere...and around here I don't worry about it walking off. Also put on a Stearns seatpad...I've used them on ATVs, my TW200, etc. and for the $$ they are fantastic at preventing numb-butt!
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:42 AM   #28
dakman74 OP
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Location: Los Alamos, NM
Oddometer: 46
Updated pics







I'm jonesing for some dual-sport tires, but I think with the fiasco of the exhaust rubbing the street tire on the 18" Seca wheel, I may have to swap to like a MAC 2-into-1 before mounting the 18" wheel with a dual-sport tire on it.

I guess I'm also just going to bite the bullet and buy a 1" longer progressive shock...no air...should give me about 2 more inches of travel, according to the viragotech forum guys. I sure wish I could find a swap shock instead!

UPDATE: For cheap, I'm going to see how much modifying I'm going to have to do to mount a Grizzly 600 rear shock. The eyes LOOK about the same size, it's about 17" long eye-to-eye and adjustable for pre-load. When/if it get it installed, I'll let everyone know how it went. With the ratio of about 2:1 when it comes to the rear shock, the extra 1.5" length SHOULD equate to about 3" more of height/travel. We shall see! Like the guy that took a chance with the CX500 shaftie, I suppose I'm just gonna try it and hope it's good.
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:19 AM   #29
dakman74 OP
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Los Alamos, NM
Oddometer: 46
Got the cat-eye front signals installed...looks pretty good. Also cut out the sidecover/battery-cover out of aluminum and having a buddy weld it up. Once I get it mounted, definitely picture time again.

Freakin oil filter cover still leaking, bit the bullet and ebayed a complete "right crankcase cover" with oil filter cover included. It's from a midnight and a bit scratched, so I'll either touch it up or use the stripping wheel and just bring it to bare aluminum. Ahh the fun of reviving a poor, abused bike!
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:55 AM   #30
dakman74 OP
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Latest pictures









Update: Grizzly rear shock went on with no modification to the shock or mounts needed. Seems to like the 3rd position on the preload with just me on it.

To make it fit, had to "massage" the stock exhaust can a bit for clearance for the tire and for the brake tension arm. Looks more and more like this exhaust has to go, especially if I want the 18" wheel with D/S tire to mount and clear, I'm fairly sure the MAC 2-into-1 will clear...when I have the $$ it'll be on order unless I can come up with something else. The other option is to cut a portion of the center exhaust can out and then re-weld it in with more clearance. Anyone know if the inside of the can has any baffling or diverters that I'll run into if I go that route?

Got the midnight clutch cover/oil filter housing cover in the mail, but haven't installed it yet. Might just slap on the oil filter housing cover this evening and see if that solves the trickle from that area. I noticed that the one I just got has 2 o-rings on it, and I'm pretty sure the one I have on the bike just had one. There's the one that sits in the slot on the "barrel" of the cover, and then on the one I just received, there's one on the "nose" of the cover that looks like it would contact the oil filter. I'll keep ya posted on what I find!

After these pics were taken I extended the kickstand. I used some larger-diameter tubing and slipped as much of the stock kickstand into the tube as possible at both ends before welding, but since it's fairly long it sure seems a bit flexy. Might look into an aftermarket stand, or add more material to it. Time will tell!
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