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Old 05-10-2013, 05:49 PM   #1
WonTian OP
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Severely Damaged Engine Case(Threads)

So my inspection plug was very badly sized so I first cut a slit in it with an angle grinding and hammered at with a screw driver for a hour with no luck. Pieces of the plug were cracking and breaking off. So I broke out the drill and started drilling some holes thinking it would relieve some of the pressure, it didn't work. I stared hammering the holes with the screw driver again until enough of the plug had broken off to actually unscrew the plug. This is where I notice I messed up...bad. What are my options? I'm thinking if I just put a new plug in with RTV in the massive pits and it might be okay. or do I need a new side case?


WonTian screwed with this post 05-10-2013 at 06:37 PM
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:13 PM   #2
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Judging by the looks of the mess you need to take the side cover off anyway to be able to adequately clean. Depending on the number of threads that are left you might be able to have the the surface welded enough to get a sealing area. You wont have threads there as that would be very time consuming to restore. Unless this is some vintage with parts that are very hard to get or its very expensive the best would be to replace it. If you have no way to get a new one I could make that one look like new but it is allot of work and time consuming. Where are you located? What kind of bike? A better pic of the whole area would also help.

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Old 05-10-2013, 06:13 PM   #3
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Not sure what I'm looking at. If the female threads are fooked, pull the cover and either replace it or, see if a Devcon titanium putty patch will fix them. Put wax or teflon tape on the new plug and insert then apply the devcon. That will allow later removal.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by rpeterk View Post
Judging by the looks of the mess you need to take the side cover off anyway to be able to adequately clean. Depending on the number of threads that are left you might be able to have the the surface welded enough to get a sealing area. You wont have threads there as that would be very time consuming to restore. Unless this is some vintage with parts that are very hard to get or its very expensive the best would be to replace it. If you have no way to get a new one I could make that one look like new but it is allot of work and time consuming. Where are you located? What kind of bike? A better pic of the whole area would also help.

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I'm in North California
Its a 01 DRZ400S, nothing special. I just don't to shell out the bucks for another engine case


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Old 05-10-2013, 06:32 PM   #5
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Not sure what I'm looking at. If the female threads are fooked, pull the cover and either replace it or, see if a Devcon titanium putty patch will fix them. Put wax or teflon tape on the new plug and insert then apply the devcon. That will allow later removal.
Where can I find this Devcon? I've never heard of it before

I actually am trying to get the side cover off but the starter gear screws are stuck...
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:34 PM   #6
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Is this a DR or KLR? Replace it- looks very eph'd. In addition to the metal fragments everywhere and inside i imagine- it looks like there is a hefty crack/fracture right before the first thread. Hammers are my favorite tool but they can wreak havoc on cast alloy pieces. Peace of mind is cheap when the alternative is sitting on the roadside with a defunct machine.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:36 PM   #7
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Wow! Somebody needs to take your tools away.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:38 PM   #8
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Wow! Somebody needs to take your tools away.
I know, right??

How would you have dealt with the problem?
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:40 PM   #9
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Is this a DR or KLR? Replace it- looks very eph'd. In addition to the metal fragments everywhere and inside i imagine- it looks like there is a hefty crack/fracture right before the first thread. Hammers are my favorite tool but they can wreak havoc on cast alloy pieces. Peace of mind is cheap when the alternative is sitting on the roadside with a defunct machine.
This is my 01 DRZ400S I just picked out a few weeks ago. The side cases are actually magnesium. The previous owner dropped in a deep mud puddle, so he was selling it cheap. This also probably explains why are all the bolts on this bike are sized.

My KLR on the other hand has been a rock these past years
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:49 PM   #10
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i had the same problem with my DR350 and this is what i did.

laid it on it's side


drilled 4 holes in (not through) the cap then used a castle nut socket to turn the wrench while standing on the wrench/socket/cap with my motocross boots on.


no damage to the threads or shavings in the hole.


i put the new cap in with anti seize compound and did not tighten the piss out of it like the PO did.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:50 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by WonTian View Post
This is my 01 DRZ400S I just picked out a few weeks ago. The side cases are actually magnesium. The previous owner dropped in a deep mud puddle, so he was selling it cheap. This also probably explains why are all the bolts on this bike are sized.

My KLR on the other hand has been a rock these past years
Best of luck with this. Do you have a quality extendable small magnet? Have you pulled the side cover off yet? I'm worried about debris in the crank case. A magnet may at least get the bolt fragments out of the engine, I don't know how much Fe is in the side cover. I'd plan on a few very short interval oil/filter changes after this.
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:54 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by haggeo View Post
i had the same problem with my DR350 and this is what i did.

laid it on it's side


drilled 4 holes in (not through) the cap then used a castle nut socket to turn the wrench while standing on the wrench/socket/cap with my motocross boots on.


no damage to the threads or shavings in the hole.


i put the new cap in with anti seize compound and did not tighten the piss out of it like the PO did.
I wish I had seen this before I assaulted my DRZ with a power drill..
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:56 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by two40two View Post
Best of luck with this. Do you have a quality extendable small magnet? Have you pulled the side cover off yet? I'm worried about debris in the crank case. A magnet may at least get the bolt fragments out of the engine, I don't know how much Fe is in the side cover. I'd plan on a few very short interval oil/filter changes after this.
Thanks. I'm still trying to get the side cover off, the starter gear cover screws are sized. I the bike on the lift right now tilted to the right so the shaving fall on the flywheel instead of down into the crank case. Thanks for the tip
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:07 PM   #14
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Overnight treatment with PBlaster, judicious use of a torch, large allen key w/cheater bar...a drill should have been your last resort.

If you don't have (or can't correctly use) an impact driver, please don't try to remove the siezed bolts.

I also found a replacement side cover for my trail-damaged DRZ for about $30 on eBay.
Thanks for the input!
My first attack was WD40 overnight, heat gun, and 1/2 breaker-bar with a allen head, and it totally stripped it clean out. I think the plug is a soft aluminum

I might just start peeking around on ebay if I can't get this sorted out.

I'm going out on my KLR to pick up an impact driver right now, more updates later tonight
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnieGS View Post
Overnight treatment with PBlaster, judicious use of a torch, large allen key w/cheater bar...a drill should have been your last resort.

If you don't have (or can't correctly use) an impact driver, please don't try to remove the siezed bolts/screws.

I also found a replacement side cover for my trail-damaged DRZ for about $30 on eBay.
i used PBblaster (heat gun too) and could swear (in my case) it didn't get past the o ring down to the threads on the cap. the first attempts were with a pin spanner but it was a harbor freight cheapie that bent right away but it gave me the castle nut socket idea. laying the bike down is also key to getting enough pressure on the cap with my foot, otherwise the pins just spin off of the holes.
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