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Old 08-07-2013, 10:45 AM   #16
Monty348
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ITSA Classes

Looks to me like your bike would qualify for the Modern Mono class.

http://twinshock.org/content.aspx?pa...odule_id=10801
o Modern Mono Any mono-shock trial motorcycle from any time period utilizing disc brakes on one or both wheels.

Trials bikes evolved yearly in the 1980's with changes every year based on the previous year's factory professional model. For the most part that pattern hasn't changed. Improvements are small but over time add up significantly.
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Old 08-07-2013, 10:51 AM   #17
lineaway
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A. The International Twin Shock Association (ITSA), our governing body, is introducing a new class
for 2013, which will be: AIR COOLED MONO. Mt. West Vintage Trials Association (MWVTA) will
allow any air cooled mono-shock machine up to model year 1991, with either drum or disc
brakes. This class will be further subdivided into Expert, Intermediate and Novice

It looks like our club has it`s own definition of the Mono class!
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:51 AM   #18
Gordo83
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I had an 86 TR33. I rode my very first real Trials event on it a few years ago, before I switched to the Vintage bikes. The bike was great, but I would agree with lineway, the front disc brake didn't work well. I have an 85 TY350 that stops better. But I do like the Beta. Keep an eye on ebay. There's always parts coming up for it.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:00 PM   #19
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On most Euro trials bikes fitted with twin piston brake calipers, its possible to fit quad piston type from later bikes as direct replacement.
The master cylinder may be needed as well, and these changes will mean a better brake. Main problem with the older bikes though, is than many of them dont have floating discs, which seems to mean that brakes dont work quite as well as more modern bikes, even after changing caliper and master cylinder.
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Old 08-09-2013, 01:32 PM   #20
lineaway
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And then it will not be legal in the vintage class.
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Old 08-09-2013, 11:35 PM   #21
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I get the feeling the word "Legal" is very often heard if you are riding AHRMA events, but not likely to be a problem at an ITSA event.
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Old 08-10-2013, 04:36 PM   #22
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:25 PM   #23
GAwoody83 OP
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Anyone know where I can find fork seals, and springs? Does it use two or four seals?
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Old 09-05-2013, 12:58 AM   #24
Twin-shocker
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Fork seals from any good bearing supply shop (or Ebay), fork springs for Bultaco will fit, but you may need to alter pre-load a little.
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Old 09-05-2013, 10:02 AM   #25
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Dust covers and fork seals should be still available through Beta.

A nice bike but spare parts can be difficult to find for you in the US, so keep especially the plastics in very well shape.

I recently bought a NOS rear plastic fender for my TR 34 in Italy for a riddicoulus amount of money, in cases like this I try to keep in mind that later riding around will be nearly costless ...

The brakes btw. work pretty well on the bike and are far better then any drum brakes, brake pads are too easy to get.
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Old 09-06-2013, 03:55 AM   #26
GAwoody83 OP
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What about clutch plates? Can I use stuff from a 34? What is the difference between them besides the rear disk brake?
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Old 09-06-2013, 04:45 AM   #27
PSchrauber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GAwoody83 View Post
What about clutch plates? Can I use stuff from a 34? What is the difference between them besides the rear disk brake?
There are sadly not many parts the TR33 and TR34 shares.

The frame is very much different, also plastics and gas tank.

The engine got a bigger displacement a different primary gear ratio and different gears.

The clutch was changed too, the very first production batch of TR 34 in 1987 had a clutch which could not catch up with the engine, so they changed the clutch during production and there was clutch rebuild kit available. So I don't believe you can use any parts from this model.

There some part that is identical are the reeds, the fork and the front brake for the 1987 model. Fork and front brake where changed from 1988 on.
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Old 09-06-2013, 07:58 AM   #28
motobene
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineaway View Post
I`ve always ran a ngk bp5es, but I think a seven was stock. Also I have never seen a coil replaced. What happened?
I depends. Assuming correct jetting, the BP5ES is a good bet, as it is a hotter plug. Trials bikes, with their periods of slower puttering around, need hotter plugs to keep the tip cleaned off.

If the 5-range NKG accumulates blackness over several rides, I opt for a hotter plug. My default plug now is the Champion RC14YC. I use it in my GasGas bikes. With an BPR5ES I get carbon accumulation over about 6 months of riding.This is hotter than the 5-range NGK. It tends to stay light colored and does not accumulate carbon over time.

The RC14YC has a 5/8" hex and thus is lighter. The RN14YC has the bigger and heavier 13/16" hex. These do not have threaded tip so they won't work with plug caps meant for the threaded stem.

I also gap plugs to 0.025" to 0.028" for easier starting and reduced flame outs.
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Old 11-25-2013, 06:45 PM   #29
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So i had to pull off the clutch cover on the beta to find a mysterious scrubbing noise and noticed where the displacement is usually marked on the base of the cylinder, it says 12.5137. any ideas? do i have the 125cc version? Also can anyone tell me how to properly tune my Dellorto PHBH 26bs carb. the screws are towards the cylinder not the air box.
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Old 11-25-2013, 07:03 PM   #30
Monty348
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I can't say for sure on the cylinder but this link might help
http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/...page__hl__tr34

The mixture adjustment screw controls the fuel if it's toward the engine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by GAwoody83 View Post
So i had to pull off the clutch cover on the beta to find a mysterious scrubbing noise and noticed where the displacement is usually marked on the base of the cylinder, it says 12.5137. any ideas? do i have the 125cc version? Also can anyone tell me how to properly tune my Dellorto PHBH 26bs carb. the screws are towards the cylinder not the air box.
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