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Old 05-22-2013, 02:02 PM   #1
kellymac530 OP
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Finally...The GS"B"

I finally had to do it. I had some time to upload some pics so here is the build thread. Skip to the link of pics if you want, but here is some back round.

It WAS a daily rider '96 R1100RT. I bought in late 2010 on ebay and with shipping from the east coast I have $4800 into it. It only had 14k miles on it. I have ridden it for the last 2.5 years, except when in surgery recovery which has been twice in that time for 6 months each. So in about 18 months on the bike I put about 11k miles. I really like it, but I prefer MX and hard enduro. I know because of the last 3 surgeries I had my MX days are OVER. I also know myself and I know if I have ANY bike that is even remotely close to a dirt bike I AM going to ride hard and fast {well fast for a fat old broken guy} and I just can NOT do that anymore. No more tapped in 4th gear whoop sections, no more triple jumps, no more wide open desert blast.

I do still want to be able to GO to all of those place that I love back in the woods, deep in the desert, or wherever I want, but I just need to do it at a more leasurely pace...enter the SAR browsing. I see Whale rider, Fabrice, Luke, Sailah, JTH.....all building some really cool BIG dual sport bikes. Heavy and smooth enough to still put on road miles, but suspension and a 21" front wheel to make them at least reasonably off road capable. My brain goes crazy!!!! Well it was already there and I have the perscriptions to prove it. But it races even more.

Have my second big set of neck fusions in early Dec. 2012 and for the first 3 months it is nothing but couch, TV, and computer...bored to death, but time to plan and accumulate parts....as CHEAPLY as possible since I have not worked since June 2010 and work comp has run out and living on the wifes income only is not conducive to buying alot of MC parts and staying married...at least not happily.

As soon as my doctor cleared me to fiddle around the house with a 14 lb. lifting limit I began the strip down. I had to take things more apart than prefered to keep in my weight limit, but I got her torn down. My goal was a bike similar to Bert Dursmaa's GS with the WP fork conversion....but without buying the $2000 front frame and the $2000+ of WP/KTM forks and wheel.

My best friend owns a REALLY good weld shop in Redondo Beach so any serious fab and welding was no big deal. I also own a very vintage Lincoln 250/Tig 250 welder that just does not do aluminum but I can TIG steel and SS decently. So off i went.

Parts: I found a set of KYB 46mm Forks with TC from a 2003 Yami YZ for $100 shipped, Those were my second favorite forks I have ever owned so I know they are a good fork. Yes, tough to get heavy enough springs, but there is more than 1 way to skin a cat.
I then found a YZ front wheel for $45 and a MC/hose/Caliper set up for $30 so with shipping I had well under $200 for a complete front end all from a 2003 Yami YZ and ALL in REALLY clean shape with very few hours and barely scratch on any of it.

Then I bought a 1999 Honda CR125 aluminum frame on ebay for $55 so I could scavenge the steering neck and it has also donated so nice aluminum for brackets and tabs.

The biggest purchase I had to make was a rear laced wheel and new rear knobby. I found a wheel on ebay that Woody was selling that had been taken apart, cleaned up and rebuilt and trued for $400...not cheap, but worth the piece of mind that it was a good piece for the money. I also bought a Kenda Big Block rear tire. Not sure how wear will be, but it looks like a perfect tire for what I want to do. We will see. At just over half the cost of a TKC80 I thought it was worth a try.

I was thinking of just running the ugly plastic under tank from the RT, but once the front end was on I realized that the 21" wheel and steep fork angle interfered with the large wings on the RT...can NOT afford a GS tank so what now....scan ebay for weeks and find a wrecked BMW R1150 Rockster tank that is teel so I can easily mod it to work. Dented, but I can fix that. It fit right on and will work with a few mods.

Seat? I was looking at everything I could to figure out a seat. Banshee seat? Nope too wide. Dirtbike seat? Nope, too narrow and hard. Wait a minute, I have a BMW R80G/S with a solo and a long seat....hmm R80 long seat...holy crap, just right...I felt like Goldielocks.

Some tubing, a tank of Argon, a couple pounds of SS 304 rod and 2 months later here I am.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54387367@N05/

Ask away, laugh at, pick on...or give some input, I am up for it.

I REALLY added some bracing and support to the front neck. I remembered the criticizm on Fabrice's aluminum neck build so I added 3 different angled braces to the neck. Should be able to see them in some of the pics.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:00 PM   #2
DRjoe
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But but but why?

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Old 05-22-2013, 03:04 PM   #3
sailah
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So, realize we are all lazy and don't want to have to search around for your pics....check the screen grab I did in your Flikr album. Highlight the BB text, do a CTRL-C for copy, click over to your post on ADV and hit CTRL-V for paste. Bam, instant laziness for all us lazy bastards.





671 by kellymac530, on Flickr
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:09 PM   #4
kellymac530 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRjoe View Post
But but but why?

I deserve that....
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:13 PM   #5
kellymac530 OP
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[QUOTE=sailah;21468356]So, realize we are all lazy and don't want to have to search around for your pics....check the screen grab I did in your Flikr album. Highlight the BB text, do a CTRL-C for copy, click over to your post on ADV and hit CTRL-V for paste. Bam, instant laziness for all us lazy bastards.

Absolutely NO clue what "CTRL-C" "CTRL-V" "BB text" "screen grab" even is...dude I pound nails and carry drywall for a living.
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:25 PM   #6
kellymac530 OP
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I will try something here:

The start-



The Parts-



The build-



More pics on the link
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Old 05-22-2013, 03:29 PM   #7
kellymac530 OP
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Neck welds are NOT mine...I wish I could weld aluminum like this, Lloyd's Welding





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Old 05-25-2013, 10:59 AM   #8
larryboy
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Finally!!!


Now, how are you planning to keep that front end from just folding over backwards into the gas tank?
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:21 AM   #9
kellymac530 OP
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I am using the stock rear frame stays that run down to the motor. Then I added stays on each side from the old A-arm pivot point up to the frame head. Then I added 2 running forward from the A-arm pivot point to the lower legs of the front frame mount. Then I added 2 long stays straight back to the new taller subframe I made which is very gusseted and braced.

I am pretty sure it is VERY well braced and triple triangulated....full confidence. I will try to post a pic of the added bracing.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:37 AM   #10
larryboy
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Cool, can't wait to see how you pulled it off!!!


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Old 06-01-2013, 06:24 PM   #11
kellymac530 OP
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Just sold a bunch of the take off parts on the BMWsporttouring website so I have about $500 to pay back the wife for the rear rim and tire and buy some new parts...just ordered a different front fender to match the vintage KTM orange rear I am using, new fork gaurds, starter button, leftside dual sport style controls for the lights TS and horn, and a TrailTech Endurance speedo.

In the process of welding up the fuel tank for now, I will expand it's size later. Then some wiring and I think it is rideable....might get doctors clearance to ride this thursday so the push is on !!!
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Old 06-02-2013, 04:42 AM   #12
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Looking at your exhaust, you might want to keep the possibility of air reversion back to the O2 sensor in the back of your mind. If that occurs you would get unpredictably over-rich fueling. In case it's not running right you could disconnect the O2, reset your Motronic and add something like a BoosterPlug. There are ways to break the air reversion too but I'm not sure what's best.
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Old 06-02-2013, 09:29 AM   #13
kellymac530 OP
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Thanks for the tip. What exactly is air reversion? I am guessing when air gets sucked back into a muffler because of not enough back pressure?

It is still baffled internall, just less than the stock Ducati can, it also has the stock Duc baffle in the end so it is restricted down to just over an inch in the end of the outlet and that is a nipple that extends about 4" back into the can.

Is that enough to stop the reversion do you think?
I always am up for suggestions and appreciate another pair of eyes.
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Old 06-02-2013, 03:39 PM   #14
kellymac530 OP
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Here are few new pics of the dash panel, the front headlight, and the ones that have been asked for by Larryboy and others the structural additions. On the structual stuff, I added a this piece of gray duct tape to ID the stock rear frame stays, still in place, and some thin blue tape strips to ID the 3 on each side that I have added so you can see them.

Tell me what you think.

The blank area on the dash is getting a TT Endurance speedo/odo

http://www.flickr.com/photos/54387367@N05/

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Old 06-02-2013, 03:40 PM   #15
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You can not see it in this picause of the wire harness, but that Y mount is on a custom mount I made that is on the A-arm pivot bolt. You can see it on the other side pic
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