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Old 05-24-2013, 05:11 AM   #16
Unstable Rider
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Damned interesting post and all. It does es'plain why the whole process is spendy for the average guy when you walk into an establishment with a stack of dirty bit fark hole matter and you ask them to make it purty for yeah.



I gets it now. Gots my mind right.
I have had the addiction to the end result myself. It's great stuff.... great post.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
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Curious about what you would have done differently on prep as I'm doing what I gleaned off reading internet forums

personally if you had brought it to me i would have cooked it (hung sideways) to burn the oil/grease out of the bearing holes/pores,
then sand blasted it and wiped it down with MEK... then PC and cook at 400* for 20 mins (as stated 400* part temp)
but the way you did isnt a bad thing just more than prob was needed.....
with alum. i tried to heat it as few times as possible...
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:24 AM   #18
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Cool thanks. I coated a steering stop I made today using a slightly abbreviated cleaning process. Same harley texture as the swingarm. The powder fills in many of the slight machine marks. I did sand blast prior to coating though





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Old 05-26-2013, 04:56 PM   #19
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Not really powder coating but I did try laser engraving on powdercoating.

I started with shemp for my buddy that is always screaming it at random people. Hard to tell but the detail is incredible.

The pics below are crappy resolution pics of riding buddies I stole from banner pics on our local site so they didn't come out well.

Being that the pic needed to be a negative you had to invert the photo.



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sailah screwed with this post 05-26-2013 at 05:07 PM
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Old 05-26-2013, 10:34 PM   #20
qkenf4u
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yep PC is anywhere from .003-.006" thick so it will fill lighter scratches just fine...esp if you use textured PC
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:49 AM   #21
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Nice work, Pete. A great resource to have around.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:04 AM   #22
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little overboard with the prep work but to each their own.. worked in a PC shop in lake havapoo for a year back in 2010.. was a cool job... well not really since the oven is 400* and it gets to 115* there in the summer... real fun sandblasting in the enclosed trailer they used as a mobile sanb blaster setup...

anyways nice job....
lol I was going to say the same thing. I usually just sand and wipe down, but too much prep is better than not enough. It's a fun hobby and pretty easy until one starts to get in parts that don't fit in a normal cooking oven.
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Old 08-27-2013, 02:27 PM   #23
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I would kill to have a shop like that in my area. I didn't even know such a thing existed. I dont think I would spend any time at home. Great work on the powder coating.
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Old 08-27-2013, 08:07 PM   #24
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See how many coats you can put on 1 piece without flocking, I paid a small fortune for my equipment and cant get 2.

For great candys you need a bare minimum of 2 coats.
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:26 PM   #25
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See how many coats you can put on 1 piece without flocking, I paid a small fortune for my equipment and cant get 2.

For great candys you need a bare minimum of 2 coats.
Which gun are you using and what is your grounding setup like? I am able to do 3 coats with my $44 Craftsman gun and a grounding rod setup, aiming to do 4 coats on a sign I am making later this month.
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Old 08-29-2013, 01:10 PM   #26
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The most I've done is 9 coats.

This bike frame is three coats. White base, apply stencils, maroon and orange mid coats, then peel stencils and clear top coat.









I've done a ton of these jobs. You're looking at body work, and then 3 coats on top of that.











There's 9 coats total on this tank. Lots of body work.













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Old 08-29-2013, 01:25 PM   #27
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This is four coats total. White base, apply star stencil and mask, red, then blue, them clear vision top coat. The ceramic on the pipes is NIC Cerakote.





Lots of candy reds and blues. I like doing the bling.





White inside for visibility, then black outside. Yellow lids with clear. Tie downs on lid black to match then riveted back into place.



Engine cases. The masking will wear you out.



Powder matched to Kawasaki Concours blue. I did a bunch of these crash bars for local Connie nuts.



For people who say powder is too thick and obscures details. This is a bmw frame I did for a member on here. It does not cover details if you lay it on with a reasonable build thickness.





Same bmw. These were a beating getting them slick. They outgassed real bad.







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Old 08-29-2013, 09:59 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by mudvaynedude122 View Post
Which gun are you using and what is your grounding setup like? I am able to do 3 coats with my $44 Craftsman gun and a grounding rod setup, aiming to do 4 coats on a sign I am making later this month.

I am using an PBTP ES03 setup with separate copper clad ground rod(s) Ive had as many as 6 connected together and still no dice on multiple coats.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:50 AM   #29
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Cool stuff. I do metals sculpting and have always wanted to mess with one of the home powdercoat kits from Eastwood.

But I have to say, given the thread title I was initially going to come here and recommend Gold Bond.
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Old 08-30-2013, 05:16 AM   #30
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haha

I powdercoated my Husky TXC swingarm yesterday. I had to leave it in the shop to cool overnight, pics later. It looks like it came out awesome.

I scrubbed it down and dried it off. Sandblasted it. Scrubbed it with Greased Lightening. Offgassed it in the oven at 450 for 25 minutes. Sandblasted a couple spots again. Recleaned it, dried it. Shot it with Harley textured black, baked 380 for 20 minutes. Really happy with how it came out.
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