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Old 06-06-2013, 09:11 PM   #16
Boon Booni
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I grew up with this..

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Where the fuck...
Where the fuck is the bike?
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:46 AM   #17
Dabears
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryH View Post
Since all small bikes seem to be called "mopeds" now, you might actually consider a real moped. Check out the new Tomos Sprint. It is around $1000, and will take you back and forth across the country many times. It will climb anything with it's centrifugal transmission (NOT a CVT) And, it is legal in all 50 states. I've owned 3 of them, put thousands of miles on them, one was run over by a Suburban, and I rebuilt it fairly easily and rode it several thousand more miles.

Here's a story about a guy that took an 11,500 mile trip on a 50cc pedal moped in 1978, through Canada and Alaska. http://www.mopedtrip.com/
I gotta admit, I'm with JerryH here; taking a bicycle and putting a motor on it is cool if you're going to putt around the neighborhood.

If you're going to get out with traffic, I sure would want a vehicle that was designed to handle the speed, stopping requirements, lighting, having a motor requires.

Bicycles get no respect in many places, doing 25 mph pulling extra gear is not my idea of a good time. A scooter? Sure! A moped? big maybe. A bicycle with a pull start engine and a series of chains and jackshafts- not this boy; I'll stick with my old 2 stroke Vespa.

That said, I will definitely follow your ride report if you decide to do this!
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:15 PM   #18
Sidecar Jockey
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I have two motorized bicycles, and built both myself. I built both using the SD Stinger 2-stroke motor kit, if you google it its should be easy to find. Yes, its a made in China motor... but I took one comlpetely apart and it actually looks pretty well made. It has good looking bearings in it and high quality castings. I have many hours and miles on them, with no problems.

The only issue I have is that the plastic throttles that come in te kits are junk. The metal inner cable quickly cuts a groove in the plastic housing and causes the throttle to stick or bind. Just use a good metal motorcycle throttle.


This is a Huffy bike that I added front brakes to. Its a decent quality, good welds, decent bearings... but I wouldnt ride it across the country.


This one is a late 1970's Schwinn varsity bicycle. I restored the bicycle with top quality components, and I have complete confidence in the old Schwinn made in the USA frame. I would ride this bike anywhere.

If you go with a china 2-stroke motor, get a Grubee or an SD Stinger. Both are very popular, good quality, and easy to get spare parts for. Most others are junk. Also, pay extra for a metal clutchlever that LOCKS in, so you dont have to hold it in while your stopped or want to pedal. Also get a good carb. I'm very happy with the NT carb. Its also a Chineese piece, but its nearly identical in operation to the old Mikuni VM's, and seems to be built well.

I will soon be upgrading one of my bikes to a Schwinn style springer front end... you will get a LOT of vibration and road feedback through a rigid bicycle fork. Also, buy the nicest spring seat you can... even tiny bumps in the road feel like they will break you back when hit at 35 mph on a bicycle.

So not try to otorize a full suspention mountain bike... the rear shocks compressing might re-rail your drive chain and tear things up. It has not happend to me, but I ahve heard horror stories.

Also, stay away from aluminium framed bicycles. Again, it has not happened to me (both of mine are steel frames) but I ahve seen many photos of cracked aluminium frames. The motor vibration + hitting bumps faster than the bicycle was ever designed to go seems to bust aluminium frames quite quickly.

I put an electronic bicycle speedometer on each bike. I weigh 150 lbs, and was able to get the bikes up to 40 mph with a slight tail wind. They will comfortably cruise at 30 mph or below, anything above that is really pushing it... in terms of vibration, stability, and the ability of the brakes to stop you. Anything above 30 mph takes a while to slow down, and you will urn up brake pads really fast. I'm only comfortable riding them for 30 mins at a time (and I'm 26 years old and 150 lbs). After 30 mins, your butt, back, and wrists need a break. You will also need to pedal them to ssist the motor when going up any sort of hill, if you want to maintain speed.

The motors I used have 6 volt magnetos/alternators and have a wire coming off of the stator for lighting... so you could add a 6 volt headlight and tail light... but I have never messed with it. There are a million battery powered bicycle lights out there that would probably be cheaper and easier.

A good quality 2 stroke motor kit can be had for $200. A decent 4 stroke kit will be $400+. This does NOT include the price of the bicycle. For the price of a 4 stroke motorized bicycle, you could buy a 'real' motorcycle or moped. The 2-strokes are much cheaper, especially when installed on a used quality bicycle.

Sidecar Jockey screwed with this post 06-07-2013 at 12:28 PM
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:25 PM   #19
JerryH
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The neat thing about using a motorized bicycle for in town transportation in AZ, is that they are legal in bike lanes, at 20 mph or less, so they are as safe as any bicycle. I rode mine like a regular bicycle, except no pedaling other than to get it going. You could ride for miles without pedaling, and unlike electric bikes, it has unlimited range (until it falls apart) If you want a high quality setup that will not break down, get a good solid bike (from a bike shop, not Walmart) and put a Golden Eagle engine setup on it ( http://www.bikeengines.com/ ) These are highly regarded as the best single speed setup available, and people have taken long trips on them. I don't know how they would do in the mountains.

It's getting nearly impossible to find a high quality steel bike anymore, even the low end mountain bikes from bike shops are aluminum. The good old reliable Trek 820 still has a steel frame, and would be a good candidate for a rear mount motor conversion, like the Golden Eagle. It would likely need a better seat and higher bars for long distance riding. Electra, Felt, and Phat still make some decent steel framed cruisers, and then there is the king of the hill, the Worksman commercial bicycle ( http://www.worksmancycles.com/ ) they are not cheap, but they won't break either.


As far as I am concerned, a motorized bicycle is a lot safer in town (at least in AZ) than a 50cc moped or scooter, because you do not have to ride them in traffic lanes. You can ride them in the bike lanes where the spandex wearing Lance Armstrong types ride (even if they don't always like it) They do have the right of way, and if you come up behind one, you have to hang back until there is PLENTY of room to move out of the bike lane, pass them, and get back in. DO NOT get close to them. They have a lot of political power here, and would love to deny motorized bikes the right to use the bike lanes, making them pretty much worthless in town.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:38 PM   #20
JerryH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidecar Jockey View Post
I have two motorized bicycles, and built both myself. I built both using the SD Stinger 2-stroke motor kit, if you google it its should be easy to find. Yes, its a made in China motor... but I took one comlpetely apart and it actually looks pretty well made. It has good looking bearings in it and high quality castings. I have many hours and miles on them, with no problems.

The only issue I have is that the plastic throttles that come in te kits are junk. The metal inner cable quickly cuts a groove in the plastic housing and causes the throttle to stick or bind. Just use a good metal motorcycle throttle.


This is a Huffy bike that I added front brakes to. Its a decent quality, good welds, decent bearings... but I wouldnt ride it across the country.


This one is a late 1970's Schwinn varsity bicycle. I restored the bicycle with top quality components, and I have complete confidence in the old Schwinn made in the USA frame. I would ride this bike anywhere.

If you go with a china 2-stroke motor, get a Grubee or an SD Stinger. Both are very popular, good quality, and easy to get spare parts for. Most others are junk. Also, pay extra for a metal clutchlever that LOCKS in, so you dont have to hold it in while your stopped or want to pedal. Also get a good carb. I'm very happy with the NT carb. Its also a Chineese piece, but its nearly identical in operation to the old Mikuni VM's, and seems to be built well.

I will soon be upgrading one of my bikes to a Schwinn style springer front end... you will get a LOT of vibration and road feedback through a rigid bicycle fork. Also, buy the nicest spring seat you can... even tiny bumps in the road feel like they will break you back when hit at 35 mph on a bicycle.

So not try to otorize a full suspention mountain bike... the rear shocks compressing might re-rail your drive chain and tear things up. It has not happend to me, but I ahve heard horror stories.

Also, stay away from aluminium framed bicycles. Again, it has not happened to me (both of mine are steel frames) but I ahve seen many photos of cracked aluminium frames. The motor vibration + hitting bumps faster than the bicycle was ever designed to go seems to bust aluminium frames quite quickly.

I put an electronic bicycle speedometer on each bike. I weigh 150 lbs, and was able to get the bikes up to 40 mph with a slight tail wind. They will comfortably cruise at 30 mph or below, anything above that is really pushing it... in terms of vibration, stability, and the ability of the brakes to stop you. Anything above 30 mph takes a while to slow down, and you will urn up brake pads really fast. I'm only comfortable riding them for 30 mins at a time (and I'm 26 years old and 150 lbs). After 30 mins, your butt, back, and wrists need a break. You will also need to pedal them to ssist the motor when going up any sort of hill, if you want to maintain speed.

The motors I used have 6 volt magnetos/alternators and have a wire coming off of the stator for lighting... so you could add a 6 volt headlight and tail light... but I have never messed with it. There are a million battery powered bicycle lights out there that would probably be cheaper and easier.

A good quality 2 stroke motor kit can be had for $200. A decent 4 stroke kit will be $400+. This does NOT include the price of the bicycle. For the price of a 4 stroke motorized bicycle, you could buy a 'real' motorcycle or moped. The 2-strokes are much cheaper, especially when installed on a used quality bicycle.
I have an early '70s Schwinn Varsity 10 speed, but it is a collectors item. Steel frame and steel rims. It weighs a ton. Plus it has a bump stop for a seat, and drop bars. I couldn't begin to ride it. It's hanging on my garage wall.


The 2 biggest issues with both those bikes are the rag joints that connect the sprockets to the rear wheel spokes, and especially that tensioner mounted on the left chain stay. I had one of those rotate into the rear wheel, destroying the wheel, and another where the cheap plastic pulley actually broke (they are similar to the rollers on sliding screen doors) and let the chain snag in the rear wheel, destroying the second wheel. I finally built my own "rubbing block" out of a rubber compression plug and some 1"x3/8" aluminum stock attached to both the chain stay and seat stay (much like what dirt bikes use to keep the chain off the swing arm) and then shortly after that the engine blew up.
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I won't spend more on a bike than I think it's worth, but if it's a good deal, I don't seem to have a problem buying bikes I don't need.
2002 Vulcan 750, 2013 Royal Enfield B5
2001 XT225, 2009 Genuine Stella
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Old 06-07-2013, 10:01 PM   #21
vortexau
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Here's a good chance to go solar:



10,000-kilometer journey, from France to Tokyo on a custom-made solar bike

Quote:
He covered a distance of 120 kilometers per day, which enabled him to finish the journey from France to Japan in just four months instead of six.The concept behind such a performance is simple. The bike had an adapted trailer attached that carried two solar panels and two lithium batteries (powering the electric motor). These improvements allowed him to travel at higher speeds with the same amount of pedalling.
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Old 06-08-2013, 11:24 PM   #22
Colorado CJ OP
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Well, I bought a motor (predator 79cc) which should make about 3.5 hp after a few tweeks. I also bought a TAV 2 CVT ("snowmobile" clutch).

I also bought a Huffy Champion for the base to work up from. After getting it out of the box and assembled though, I may take it back and get a different bike to cut up (it's pretty small and not too strong feeling).

What I WISH I could find is a nice used Felt cruiser, something like a 1903 or a Cheif. If I could find one of those, I can convert the "tank" into a real gas tank. They are very pricey new though.

Here is what I am shooting for now, if I can find a Felt at a reasonable price. Mine would have the larger engine and CVT though.

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Old 06-10-2013, 06:36 PM   #23
RUNDCM
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motorized bike

E-bikes are interesting too--plus you can get away with riding on the"no motorized vehicles" paths if they are subtle appearing enough & you dont go stupid fast. We have a "Schwinn TailWind" e-bike retailed for $3200 new, didnt sell well at that price, & ended up with one last year -brand new for 850.00 charges up in 15 minutes & is good for 20 miles on minimal pedal assist...... This thing is a Cadillac fleetwood brome of bikes. Wife with scooter, its gotta go. Its a "femme" style which only makes it cooler in my opinion.
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Old 06-10-2013, 11:48 PM   #24
SpectreNCSU
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Get something with good brakes, preferably some sort of disc arrangement. I had a Spooky Tooth motorized bike, and had to sell it after a couple terrifying incidents where I cruised through red lights because the brakes wouldn't stop me.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:25 PM   #25
vt1099ace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colorado CJ View Post
Not sure if this fits here or not.

My dad and I have been riding our motorcycles together for many years now. The other day he told me that he wants to put a motor on his bicycle and take some longer trips on it. His bicycle is set up for touring and he has a bob-trailer for camping gear (single wheel trailer).

Since he talked to me about it, I've been reading up on motorizing bicycles, watching videos and reading up on others touring adventures.

I think I am hooked!

I LOVE taking long trips with my motorcycle (did a 4000 mile trip last summer), and the thought of taking a cross country trip on a bicycle with a 49cc engine pushing me along at 25-30 m.p.h. has really got me excited for some reason.

The plans for now are to build up two motorized bicycles in the next couple of months and go on some shorter ~800 mile trips, then later year take off for a cross country trip.

We are planning on using Honda GX50 4 stroke engines and shift kits (lets you use the bikes rear casset or internal shift hub. They get between 150-200 miles per gallon and a usual day consists of ~200 miles of riding.

It is a slow pace adventure, but I'm sure it would be a whole lot of fun.

Has anyone tried out any of these motorized bicycles?

This is similar to what we are looking to put together (but on mountain bike frames) and pulling a single wheel bob trailer for camping gear and photography/video equipment.


checkout these blokes....'scootstars', cross country on chinese scoots that can't do more than 28mph (that's 50cc to you and me)

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...be.6G9Cgx5W3lQ
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Old 06-11-2013, 10:11 PM   #26
JerryH
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Brakes you definitely need, especially a front one. But I have tried mountain bikes with rim brakes and with disc brakes, and like rim brakes better. Disc brakes really do nothing but add weight, expense, and complication (never liked dual suspension either) A good lightweight hardtail is the way to go. Anyway, disc brakes on a bike are not the same as going from a drum to a disc on a motorcycle or car. Rim brakes ARE disc brakes, the rim is the disc, and it is much larger in diameter than what they call disc brakes on bicycles.

You do have to have a front brake. IMO, riding any bicycle in traffic without a front brake is crazy. Yes I used to have a lot of fun doing slides in the dirt on my Schwinn Sting Ray by locking up the rear wheel in a turn, but that was out in the country where traffic was not an issue.

As for riding a motorized bicycle in town, in AZ they are limited to 20 mph, and since they ARE bicycles, you have to use some common sense as far as stopping is concerned. Nobody rides a pedal bicycle at 20 mph very far. You have to slow down for lights and intersections, even if the light is green. Neither the throttle or brakes are going to respond like even a 50cc scooter, so planning ahead is definitely necessary. These are not motorcycles, they are motor ASSISTED bicycles. They should be ridden like bicycles, not motorcycles.


An electric bike would be great, IF you could go 20 miles at 20 mph with NO pedaling. I have bad knees, and pedaling is not going to happen. And the range of an electric bike is simply to short (with no pedaling) and the cost too high, to make them worth anything to me.


I do not believe there is any future in electric vehicles. They have been around for a long time, and there have been no leaps and bounds in their performance from day one. There has been improvement, but it has been at a turtle's pace, not like what is happening in the computer world. The brand new ones still use decades old technology. And it is not as if they are pollution free, look at the pollution it takes to make them, the toxic batteries that will have to be disposed of, and where does the energy come from to recharge them? A place that makes pollution in the process of generating it.
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I won't spend more on a bike than I think it's worth, but if it's a good deal, I don't seem to have a problem buying bikes I don't need.
2002 Vulcan 750, 2013 Royal Enfield B5
2001 XT225, 2009 Genuine Stella
1980 Puch moped
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:37 AM   #27
Not the Messiah
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Something like this then?
Built this when I was a kid on the farm. 125 two-smoke lawn mower engine, vee belt drive to the bicycle bottom bracket then bike chain drive but with the sprockets swapped (40-something tooth rear, 15 tooth front).
Built with parts found in the farm shed except for a tyre and tube. Total cost about $2.50 (in 1970...)


I'd say go for it, it sounds like a whole lot of fun at a whole different pace of life. Post up how it all goes, looking forward to seeing it.
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:56 AM   #28
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Talking of e-bikes, omg I found this site yesterday, there the most stunning looking bikes I have ever seen, I want them all but I bet they cost a fortune!
http://www.enorm-ebike.at/
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:10 PM   #29
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Cost me, then 15 years-old 15 pounds, sold it 3 years later 10 pounds.
Used it mainly for visiting a 7 miles-away girlfriend.
It got there much quicker than getting home.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:19 PM   #30
JerryH
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I have a 1971 VeloSolex 3800 (like this one: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...9QEwAg&dur=548 that would be perfect for around town transportation, but I am way to heavy for it. It has a max load carrying capacity of 165 pounds. I have destroyed 2 rear wheels on it already. It uses 23" wheels, so there is no way to build a stronger wheel for it. It is sitting in my bedroom covered in dust.
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2002 Vulcan 750, 2013 Royal Enfield B5
2001 XT225, 2009 Genuine Stella
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