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Old 09-19-2013, 12:38 PM   #31
MikeinEugene
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Originally Posted by disston View Post
I removed some rust from a couple of clamps on the carbs of my bike and 4 bolts on the handlebar. Did this last week with phosphoric acid. Now they are worse, more rusted, than they were the week before. I got no protection from further rusting.

I'm going to try again. Maybe I didn't let it sit in the acid solution long enough?
A few posts up there was mention of covering whatever was recently de-rusted with WD40.
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Old 09-19-2013, 01:16 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by disston View Post
I removed some rust from a couple of clamps on the carbs of my bike and 4 bolts on the handlebar. Did this last week with phosphoric acid. Now they are worse, more rusted, than they were the week before. I got no protection from further rusting.

I'm going to try again. Maybe I didn't let it sit in the acid solution long enough?
you need to put someting on em to protect them from the atmosphere, or you'll just keep getting fresh rust. the acid won't protect anything, justy remove the top layer of meterial, leaving a fresgh surface of metal to be attacked.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:04 AM   #33
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I've read on other sites about using vinegar and will try it next time. I've been using Evaporust, wire brush, sand paper, sanding disc etc. No blast cabinet, yet. It's a lot of work. Thought of doing this.




I've cleaned a lot of parts and want to reuse them. What are people using to prevent the rust from coming back? I've got the parts coated in WD40 and have been looking at Eastwood cadium plating color paint, but have heard it looks terrible. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-04-2014, 10:37 AM   #34
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How could this process be used on an entire motorcycle or car frame?

Or does the piece need to be completely immersed in the solution?
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Old 01-04-2014, 10:50 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by hillbillypolack View Post
How could this process be used on an entire motorcycle or car frame?

Or does the piece need to be completely immersed in the solution?
The piece needs to be completely immersed.
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Old 02-16-2014, 03:44 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post


Jim
Jim, your response makes me think there's a ACF-50 thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. In fact, I found this thread by searching for one. On the UK GSer site, ACF-50 is very popular and gets mentioned often as a preventative anti-corrosive. As with all these chemical topics, I only know that I don't know enough to have an educated opinion. So, is there a downside to that stuff?
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:15 AM   #37
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Cool process, but after reading about the hydrogen being formed and released from the surface of the steel, it sparked my memory. I've had some grade 8 bolts fail in the past due to "hydrogen embrittlement" It's a process where the steel ends up with microscopic pressure points than can lead to cracking. It might not apply here, but I don't think I would try this on a drive chain.

From Wiki:
Hydrogen embrittlement is the process by which various metals, most importantly high-strength steel, become brittle and fracture following exposure to hydrogen. Hydrogen embrittlement is often the result of unintentional introduction of hydrogen into susceptible metals during forming or finishing operations and increases cracking in the material. This phenomenon was first described in 1875.[1]



Hydrogen embrittlement can occur during various manufacturing operations or operational use - anywhere that the metal comes into contact with atomic or molecular hydrogen. Processes that can lead to this include cathodic protection, phosphating, pickling, and electroplating.
I'm in Aerospace, when we have steel parts over 180 KSI cadmium or zinc plated, the process specifies a baking process to immediately follow the plating to "bake out" the hydrogen. The process then calls for the parts to be ink stamped "baked"
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:07 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by YYguy View Post
Jim, your response makes me think there's a ACF-50 thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. In fact, I found this thread by searching for one. On the UK GSer site, ACF-50 is very popular and gets mentioned often as a preventative anti-corrosive. As with all these chemical topics, I only know that I don't know enough to have an educated opinion. So, is there a downside to that stuff?
I won't look it up this morning but I am pretty sure that ACF-50 is Lanolin Wool based. If so I have been using similar products in different brand names for much longer that the Internet and haven't found a downside to it.What I have is mostly sold for machine tools, sure keeps the tablesaw and others from rusting and the upside on woodworking tools is that it does not contain sillicone, I don't like spraying that kind of silicone products in my shop, gets everywhere and will eff...up any finishing/painting job if not removed beforehand and that's hard to do on some porous surfaces.

Upside is that it gets into the metal casting pores such as unprotected aluminiums,cast irons and others and makes everything much easier to clean later, any good soap will break down the Lanolin and the dirt will lift at the same time.And to some extent will dissolve the whitish powdery corrosion on Alu and also make that easier to remove and polish later. And same with rusty steel, I sometimes restore antique tools and and give them a good coat, let it sit and later remove the now softer rust.

As for V-Twin's question up there.....unanswered as to the flash rust and further protection? I am trying this on some car parts exposed to salt and yes a couple bolts on my bike:

http://lloyds.targetnetwork.net/kryptonite-metal-treatment-satin-black-20-l-pail-5-25-gal/


NO I didn't buy a 20L pail.....455 ml for $20.00 and sure a lot of coverage, I have hardly used any and painted rather large parts with it.


Don't know yet but preliminary tests at work in a bucket of seawater, little parts did quite good after a 3 weeks immersion. And that's a Canadian product, specs are good for heat resistance etc etc...!Haven't had time to see if it can be powdercoated, futher tests will come eventually.
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Old 02-16-2014, 09:35 AM   #39
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Thanks for the info Concours. I've been just spray painting the parts in clear. I should have bought a zinc plating kit like others have.
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:55 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by YYguy View Post
Jim, your response makes me think there's a ACF-50 thread somewhere but I couldn't find it. In fact, I found this thread by searching for one. On the UK GSer site, ACF-50 is very popular and gets mentioned often as a preventative anti-corrosive. As with all these chemical topics, I only know that I don't know enough to have an educated opinion. So, is there a downside to that stuff?
I'm sure it works well as an anti-corrosive. My good friend uses it, but working on a bike covered in that crap is a nasty frustrating mess!
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Old 02-16-2014, 05:30 PM   #41
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Hello to all.
Recently I bought an old motorcycle, and it has small rusty spots on frame, near some original welding.
What can I do to get rid of this rust without dismantling the whole bike? I have a bottle of phosphoric acid and I was thinking of getting a rag soaked in acid and cover the rusty part with it, and then paint the part with a small paintbrush with oem color. I'm not thinking about getting rid of the rust with something like sandpaper because it might weak the frame, don't you think? And will phosphoric acid corrode the painted part?
Thanks.
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Old 02-17-2014, 07:12 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by danfmc View Post
Hello to all.
Recently I bought an old motorcycle, and it has small rusty spots on frame, near some original welding.
What can I do to get rid of this rust without dismantling the whole bike? I have a bottle of phosphoric acid and I was thinking of getting a rag soaked in acid and cover the rusty part with it, and then paint the part with a small paintbrush with oem color. I'm not thinking about getting rid of the rust with something like sandpaper because it might weak the frame, don't you think? And will phosphoric acid corrode the painted part?
Thanks.
You'll be fine. One good product is Krud Kutter, the one thay says "The must for rust" on it does contain Phosphoric Acid and does neutralize the rust for maybe a year according to the claims on the container.

But I like the rust converters made out of Tannic/gallic acids. They are usually milkish white in color unlike the clearish Phosphorics. And convert the rust to a darker black polymer. The phosphorics are more like a clearish varnish. I wonder how much snow is over my test piece???....been outside for a couple years I should look for it if just to show the difference between the two products.
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Old 02-17-2014, 02:37 PM   #43
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You'll be fine. One good product is Krud Kutter, the one thay says "The must for rust" on it does contain Phosphoric Acid and does neutralize the rust for maybe a year according to the claims on the container.

But I like the rust converters made out of Tannic/gallic acids. They are usually milkish white in color unlike the clearish Phosphorics. And convert the rust to a darker black polymer. The phosphorics are more like a clearish varnish. I wonder how much snow is over my test piece???....been outside for a couple years I should look for it if just to show the difference between the two products.
But can I apply it soaking a rag and applying it for a few hours to the rusty surface, with a solution with phosphoric acid suitable for remove rust? And will it ruin the paint job? The part I need to remove rust is this
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:18 AM   #44
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^^^ Remove the privacy setting on your pic.
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Old 02-18-2014, 07:39 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by danfmc View Post
But can I apply it soaking a rag and applying it for a few hours to the rusty surface, with a solution with phosphoric acid suitable for remove rust? And will it ruin the paint job? The part I need to remove rust is this


If ruined paint to you is stained or etched then yes it will ruin it. If ruined is blistering-pealing then no it likely won't. Best to test a spot that is somewhat out of sight to be sure.

Locktite has a product (can't recall the name right now) that is easy to use and is applied to surface rust and piant bonds well to. Taking a route like this might be safer for you and the bike and produce a better result than using an acid.
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