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Old 07-08-2013, 02:55 PM   #16
Kevan Garrett
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In.



O.K. I can't resist a project like this. Best of luck. Take lots of pics. Drink lots of beer.

Cheers

Kevan
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Old 09-15-2013, 11:41 PM   #17
blacktruck
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Thumb Piqued my curiousity here...

I'm in. Just thought it was my opinion but the older GWs before they covered them in plastic were far better looking. Never got into them once the engine disappeared and they were sized like a small car except with more amenities. Keep us posted. Call me crazy but I'm liking where I think you're going with this.
Ride safe there man...
Ken
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:38 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by blacktruck View Post
I'm in. Just thought it was my opinion but the older GWs before they covered them in plastic were far better looking. Never got into them once the engine disappeared and they were sized like a small car except with more amenities. Keep us posted. Call me crazy but I'm liking where I think you're going with this.
Ride safe there man...
Ken
Totally agree. I had a '78 GL1000 for years and thought it was a great-looking bike. I'm hoping I can achieve the same general type of look with the 1500.

The 1500 has been at my dad's garage for a while for storage but it's going to be moved back to my place soon, so there should start to be a bit of progress on this thread.
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Old 09-16-2013, 12:59 PM   #19
XRGRIFF
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Drilling holes

If you want to drill a hole in something that is not flat, don't use a drill it will just wander off even if you smack the devil out of it with a centre punch, use an end mill bit of the size you need, the cutting part of the tool is on the edge and not the point so will cut as soon as it touches the metal. Also you will need to TIG weld the boss for the injector into the manifold, brazing doesn't really work on aluminium unless you use those lumiweld rods.
Cool project by the way, can't beat a "why not" bike in my book.
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Old 09-16-2013, 10:25 PM   #20
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I can't wait to see where this goes. Subscribed.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:50 AM   #21
Ockrocket
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Is that some Spectra red plastics I see in one of the photos?

I'm in Australia and am in need of a front fender in Spectra red for my '99 model 50th Anniversary GL1500SEX, and the right hand [or full set] of crash bars.

Please PM me if you can help me out.

I'm interested to see WTF a naked GL1500 would look like in street legal mode too.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:34 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Ockrocket View Post
Is that some Spectra red plastics I see in one of the photos?

I'm in Australia and am in need of a front fender in Spectra red for my '99 model 50th Anniversary GL1500SEX, and the right hand [or full set] of crash bars.

Please PM me if you can help me out.

I'm interested to see WTF a naked GL1500 would look like in street legal mode too.
I've sold most of the extra plastics, but I do still have a box or two of extra parts, though. I'll check to see if I have extra crash bars. I know I don't have any fenders, though.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:40 AM   #23
Ockrocket
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
I've sold most of the extra plastics, but I do still have a box or two of extra parts, though. I'll check to see if I have extra crash bars. I know I don't have any fenders, though.
Thanks SloMo.

Ping me a PM if you find some suitable bits.
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:06 AM   #24
Roadracer_Al
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Hey there Slo Mo.

I briefly owned an 1100 Interstate. Also had a friend with a 1000 rat bike. I've always thought the early 'wings were cool in their own way.

Is there any way you can get a look at the 1800 manifold to see how they mounted originally? You probably don't want the injectors sticking too far into the port or they will spray liquid fuel onto the opposite wall, making nasty tuning problems you'll never be able to work out. With that in mind, you want to aim the injectors pretty much directly at the port.

As a hobby machinist, here's my take on the injector mod: you'll need access to a milling machine, a lathe, and a TIG welder. I would expect that you'll need the lathe to turn bosses for the injectors -- the manifold is probably not thick enough to seal the injector.

You'll need to figure out how to fixture the manifold so the axis of the new injector holes is perpendicular to the bottom of the fixture. There are milling machine tilt tables which are tremendously useful for this kind of job:



However, a welded mild steel fixture (could, literally, be salvaged junk like old bed frames) which picks up the manifold bolts and captures the "free end" somehow (a plug, a clamp, whatever) would be fine. If the fixture works for both manifolds, so much the better!

The actual installation of the holes is mostly a challenge of getting all three located in the correct places, and at the correct size. You could use a digital caliper to do this, or a "DRO" (digital read out) on a mill.

Personally, I wouldn't use AlumaBraze in a high vibration environment: it's mostly tin, which is brittle. And, once you've used it on a part, it would be impossible to go back and TIG weld over it -- the tin would severely contaminate the weld.

What are your plans for the butterflies?

I've recently ordered a MicroSquirt for a Ducati project. I'm pretty confident about the hardware installation, but panicking a bit about building the ignition curves and EFI maps. I, too have been reading a lot on line, but haven't found any "library" of user maps to use as a starting point.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:11 AM   #25
pennswoodsed
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injector bosses

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloMo228 View Post
I considered that, but I don't think it would work as well as fitting the 1800 injectors to the 1500 manifold. I'm not entirely sure that it would work at all, actually. The 1800 has the injectors mounted basically at the ends of the runners, and the GL1800 heads have clearance in the intake ports to allow the injectors to spray into the port. The 1500 does not have this clearance, just a round port. You can see the problem in this picture I pulled off Google:



That's an 1800 manifold with a 1500 gasket laid over it. You can see, at the top of the gasket, the 1800 injector port. This would be more or less completely blocked when bolted to a 1500 head, meaning that the injectors would not be spraying fuel into the intake stream.

The 1500 intake ports could possibly be opened up to allow the injectors to spray into the port, but that is a bit outside the scope of my abilities, and potentially much more expensive than just adding injectors to the 1500 manifolds. Also, I'm not sure they'd even bolt on. It looks like the bolt pattern is different.
I think a search of the car/racecar sites will turn uo weld on injector bosses for adding injection to intake manifolds.
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Old 10-01-2013, 02:22 PM   #26
SloMo228 OP
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Finally got the big beast into my own garage. Should start making some progress in the coming weeks, although my wedding is in 2 weeks and the subsequent honeymoon will take up some wrenching time, too.
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Old 10-01-2013, 02:35 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
[snip]
As a hobby machinist, here's my take on the injector mod: you'll need access to a milling machine, a lathe, and a TIG welder. I would expect that you'll need the lathe to turn bosses for the injectors -- the manifold is probably not thick enough to seal the injector.

You'll need to figure out how to fixture the manifold so the axis of the new injector holes is perpendicular to the bottom of the fixture. There are milling machine tilt tables which are tremendously useful for this kind of job:



However, a welded mild steel fixture (could, literally, be salvaged junk like old bed frames) which picks up the manifold bolts and captures the "free end" somehow (a plug, a clamp, whatever) would be fine. If the fixture works for both manifolds, so much the better!

The actual installation of the holes is mostly a challenge of getting all three located in the correct places, and at the correct size. You could use a digital caliper to do this, or a "DRO" (digital read out) on a mill.

Personally, I wouldn't use AlumaBraze in a high vibration environment: it's mostly tin, which is brittle. And, once you've used it on a part, it would be impossible to go back and TIG weld over it -- the tin would severely contaminate the weld.

What are your plans for the butterflies?

I've recently ordered a MicroSquirt for a Ducati project. I'm pretty confident about the hardware installation, but panicking a bit about building the ignition curves and EFI maps. I, too have been reading a lot on line, but haven't found any "library" of user maps to use as a starting point.
Good to know about the AlumaBraze. I can probably get a local welder to TIG the injector bungs in place for me for an acceptable price, or I could give it a go with my MIG welder. I do have two sets of manifolds in case I screw one up. The injector bungs themselves I'll be ordering premade from one of the various DIY EFI suppliers. I can get a set cheaper than having them made locally.

For butterflies, I'm not sure yet. I'm not entirely sure whether I'll be using two throttle bodies or one, honestly. I am leaning toward using one for simplicity of design, and will probably use an automotive throttle body from something like an Escort or similar.

And yeah, it's the software part of the installation that has me most concerned, too. I know that there are some successful GL1500 MS builds out there. Hopefully I'll be able to find a map to start from. I do have a friend that recently finished an MS install on a VW Corrado, though, and from what he has told me, it's fairly intuitive once you start actually working with the software.
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Old 10-02-2013, 07:30 PM   #28
Roadracer_Al
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Aluminum wire won't feed well through a MIG gun unless you get a "spool gun" - it puts the wire and feed motor right on the torch. Seems like a PITA to me.

You could probably use the old carburetors for butterflies. Just gut them and blank off all the jets & diaphragm, etc. You'd then just have to come up with a TPS.
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Old 10-04-2013, 07:53 PM   #29
k-moe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XRGRIFF View Post
Also you will need to TIG weld the boss for the injector into the manifold, brazing doesn't really work on aluminium unless you use those lumiweld rods.
Lumiweld rods are utter crrap for anything other than cosmetic repairs, or sticking pop cans together so you can sell more Lumiweld rods
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:19 PM   #30
CruisingRam
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadracer_Al View Post
Aluminum wire won't feed well through a MIG gun unless you get a "spool gun" - it puts the wire and feed motor right on the torch. Seems like a PITA to me.

You could probably use the old carburetors for butterflies. Just gut them and blank off all the jets & diaphragm, etc. You'd then just have to come up with a TPS.
MIG spool guns don't do thinner stuff well either, or dirty aluminum. They suck pretty much for most MC applications. Tig is your friend.
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