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Old 06-16-2013, 08:18 PM   #1
indr OP
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Alternator to R/R Wire Gauge

16 or 14?
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:31 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indr View Post
16 or 14?


amperage?

http://electrical.about.com/od/wirin...twiresizes.htm
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:44 PM   #3
broncobowsher
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Field wire?
Turn on wire?
Output wire?
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:45 PM   #4
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Works best with a bigger + on the output to batt.
It stoped burning them out on my sv650.
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Old 06-16-2013, 09:01 PM   #5
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The yellow wires on here.



I'm using 14 AWG on the + and -. And 16 AWG for the brown wire which gets connected by turning the ignition to ON.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:10 AM   #6
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If you have a 240 watt alternator, it's capable of delivering 20 amps. For that, you need 12 gauge. Divide wattage by voltage to get amperage.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:21 AM   #7
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up to 40 amp 3 phase you can use 18 hypalon (does not melt) on the ac leads to the reg and 12 Hypalon to the battery. If you use high amps or long run , then 10 Hypalon to the battery. 35 to 50 amp single phase use 12 hypalon to RR and then 10 hypalon to battery. Hypalon is widely used for motor leads for flexibility, oil tolerance and durability. Also used in fuse links, it can take heat. If you use PVC, you need bigger.

Rod
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:53 AM   #8
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up to 40 amp 3 phase you can use 18 hypalon (does not melt) on the ac leads to the reg and 12 Hypalon to the battery. If you use high amps or long run , then 10 Hypalon to the battery. 35 to 50 amp single phase use 12 hypalon to RR and then 10 hypalon to battery. Hypalon is widely used for motor leads for flexibility, oil tolerance and durability. Also used in fuse links, it can take heat. If you use PVC, you need bigger.

Rod
Just because you can doesn't mean you should. All you're doing is creating heat with 18 gauge, and that heat is energy that didn't get to the regulator. The idea behind using hypalon is that it can survive in externally hot conditions that aren't necessarily caused by trying to run high amperage through small wires.

The weak link in stator-to-regulator wiring is often the connectors. They get hot from poor contacts and the hard shells melt. Some folks eliminate them and use crimped and soldered connections.
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Old 06-17-2013, 01:53 PM   #9
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I'm having a hard time coming up with the exact wattage output of the 2010 Ninja 250 alternator. I'm reading guesses anywhere from 160watts to 200watts.

Just an FYI.

This is a picture of the OLD connector that plugged into the R/R.



The yellow wires in that picture are much thicker than the wires coming straight out of the alternator right now. So, the wiring was something like this:

[alternator]---thin_wire_gauge---[connector]---thicker_wire_gauge---[connector][reg/rec]

The 14 AWG I have now are MUCH thicker than the wire coming out of the alternator.

indr screwed with this post 06-17-2013 at 02:04 PM
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Old 06-17-2013, 03:12 PM   #10
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I use 8 gauge for the alt to batt connection. It's $1/foot on Fleabay.
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:02 PM   #11
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I use 8 gauge for the alt to batt connection. It's $1/foot on Fleabay.
Poor choice. Hard to work with and way overkill. 10 gauge can handle 60 amp alternator in a 40+ year old truck. And that routes from the engine, to the amp meter in the dash and back to the battery, so a fairly lengthy run as well. 8 gauge is probably what the battery cable to the starter is.
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Old 06-17-2013, 05:59 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by broncobowsher View Post
Poor choice. Hard to work with and way overkill. 10 gauge can handle 60 amp alternator in a 40+ year old truck. And that routes from the engine, to the amp meter in the dash and back to the battery, so a fairly lengthy run as well. 8 gauge is probably what the battery cable to the starter is.
Hard to work with? ROFLMAO.
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