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Old 06-20-2013, 12:51 PM   #16
GreaseMonkey
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Well look at the bright side- at least you didn't waste a day cleaning the carburetors!

You may have poor compression, wouldn't hurt to test with a compression gauge but in general starting fluid will make it sputter even with poor compression so odds are that is not your problem, but might as well locate a compression tester at some point.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:52 PM   #17
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Next thing to do is get a voltmeter and check for an AC voltage being generated by the crank sensor.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:34 PM   #18
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Just got a compression gauge. Will post back.

Re: crank sensor voltage. How does that effect anything as long as there is a spark when I push the starter button?
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreaseMonkey View Post
Well look at the bright side- at least you didn't waste a day cleaning the carburetors!

You may have poor compression, wouldn't hurt to test with a compression gauge but in general starting fluid will make it sputter even with poor compression so odds are that is not your problem, but might as well locate a compression tester at some point.
Just ran a compression test with wide open throttle. Left reads at 135 PSI. Right at 145 PSI.

Here's a bit from the manual:



So, I have:

1) Brand new pistons.

2) Brand new piston rings.

3) Brand new head and cylinder gaskets.

4) Valves properly adjusted.

What gives?

I'm seriously thinking about parting the bike out and buying a bigger one. But, part of me wants to fix the problem.

Do I need to pull the whole engine off to inspect and fix what needs to be in regards to low compression?

Can I just pull the top end off and leave the crankcase attached? I know I can recheck the valves to with just the cylinder head cover off. The rest...???
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Old 06-20-2013, 03:39 PM   #20
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Plenty of compression to start. Motor never ran so rings need seating and then a compression check to make sure the "differential" between cylinders is within acceptable limits.

No need to tear it down just yet, something else is going on if it doesn't start.
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Old 06-20-2013, 04:17 PM   #21
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Plenty of compression to start. Motor never ran so rings need seating and then a compression check to make sure the "differential" between cylinders is within acceptable limits.

No need to tear it down just yet, something else is going on if it doesn't start.
Also, when I did the test, the spark plug in the other cylinder was screwed in. I also held the ignition for a good 5-8 seconds to let the pressure rise to a max and stabilize on the gauge.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:40 PM   #22
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Well...now you have to make sure them valves are opening and opening at the right time.And that it is also firing at the right time.

BTW I'd try the starting fluid again. I don't think the "new" stuff is all that good and sure evaporates fast. Took a lot of that to start up my little chain saw recently after a few years hibernation, and that was sprayed right at the carb.

Throttle slides jammed open....spray bottle of gasoline. Oooops the things we used to do.
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Old 06-20-2013, 07:20 PM   #23
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If I keep attempting this, how long till it does serious damage to the engine?

PS: when I sprayed the starter fluid, I did it through the snorkel, on the dirty side of the airfilter. Tomorrow, I'll open up the lid to get at the airfilter and spray some on the clean side.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:16 PM   #24
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Word from another forum:

I can get a spark in atmospheric conditions but a strong spark might be harder to produce inside the engine at full compression. If the sensor coil gap is too much, I'd be getting a weak spark.

Does this sound right?
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:25 PM   #25
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Also, if I have the polarity of the magnet inside the cranksensor reversed, should I still be getting sparks?
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:19 PM   #26
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The old style Ninjetts have a vacuum petcock and need the engine to be running to supply gas to the carbs. For some reason Kawasaki did not include a "prime" selector on the petcock to bypass the vacuum operation. Are you sure you have sufficient gas in the carburetors? If you have a means to do so decant some fuel directly into the carb feed line to endure the float chambers are full.

This used to really irk me with my ninjette- it always took prolonged cranking to get enough gas into the carbs after a winter of sitting to get it to start.
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Old 06-20-2013, 11:34 PM   #27
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Yes. There is a PRIME setting and an ON setting.

PRIME bypasses the vacuum and starts pouring fuel. There is fuel going to the carbs. I have drained it to check and refilled it.
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Old 06-21-2013, 06:55 AM   #28
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Well, if it's got fuel, spark and compression, go shut it off! :-)

Sounds like fuel is getting to the carbs and there is enough compression to let it start.

I'd try this, remove the spark plugs and put a little gasoline into the cylinders. Not too much, a teaspoon at most. Screw the plugs back in quickly, hook them up and try to start it. I used to use this trick on older bikes that had a hard time starting in the spring.

I'm suspecting something in the timing, either cams or ignition. But I don't think the ignition timing is adjustable (could be totally wrong here). Give the gas test a shot and see what happens. Spraying starting fluid from the outside of the air filter won't let it get to the carbs BTW.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:27 AM   #29
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Reading back, are you SURE you have good spark? A timing light is a great way to see if you have spark. You don't have to point it at a fly wheel with timing marks, just hook it up and point it at your hand or something that can't be blinded.

Air: Check

Spark: Maybe Check?

Fuel: Probably check. If the carbs have been cleaned and you can flow fuel from the tank, you probably have fuel.
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:57 AM   #30
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How old is the gas? If the stuff from last year, you may want to freshen it up.I don't even try burning anything over 3 months old anymore, stabilized or not I just dump it in the bushcar and start with fresh.

Gas in the cylinders, that's probably better than trying to push "starting fluid" into the combusion chamber. You need to bring the slides up for that and if your "starting fluid" is anything like mine, doesn't have a straw on the nozzle to accuratly deliver it.

Keep a fire extinguisher close by.
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