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Old 07-17-2013, 09:42 AM   #16
'Rett Butler
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Phoenix-Sedona-Flagstaff-Crested Butte
Oddometer: 1,070
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnor View Post
We went without a bike for 2up riding for a few years, then my wife decided not to ride anymore...The Vstrom was a good "compromise" for me anyway (she was talking about Goldwings, cruisers etc.) It is a much better 2up bike for us anyway, she says it's the most comfortable for her we have had. The Vstrom will never make my favorite list, but its good for why we bought it. I also have owned Gen 1 FZ1's, and they are right at the top of my favorite's list with the Versys.
I just bought an old DL1000 for the same reason. My wife rides her own bikes but there are times we want to go 2-up to save gas (economics) or to make better time (I drive a bit faster on dirt, even 2-up). Plus...I'm losing faith in BMW reliability with each new model year.

I'm frantically changing out sprockets, seals, tires and handlebar and adding luggage for a trip to Colorado next week.
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My Bikes: '09 F800GS, '06 F650GS Dakard, '03 DL1000, '99 R1100S, '97 RMX250, '82 R100S/RS Cafe and '79 TT500
Family Bikes: '11 Sprint GT, '10 Thruxton, '09 F650GS, '07 CRF150RB, '98 DR350SE, '75 CB400F, '74 TL250, '71 CT90 and '69 CB450
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Old 07-17-2013, 04:54 PM   #17
superkram OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 136
Sorry for the lack of follow-up! I was busy moving & working on a friend's Wrangler. Drove his Wrangler from FL up to TN to get my 4Runner back, and was wistfully looking at all the beautiful mountain roads without a motorcycle to take 'em on. Grrr.

Anyway, pics coming Friday! Have finished the following mods:

- T-982 top box (Givi E46 knockoff from eBay)
- Moose Racing CR Hi handlebars
- Moose Racing shorty windscreen
- reflective rim tape for looks & visibility
- 2mm rear wheel spacer mod (aligns rear chain sprocket with front)

Next up is paint.
I'll remove the gas tank, front fender, and all plastic body panels and start prepping those for paint. I'll probably go with rattlecans of Rustoleum Black Metallic and a high gloss clearcoat. Been down this road before using satin Rustoleum with good results. Curious how it'll turn out with metallic and a glossy clearcoat on top.

Does anyone have good gas-resistant clearcoat recommendations?

Eager to keep progress going!
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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:15 PM   #18
'Rett Butler
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Location: Phoenix-Sedona-Flagstaff-Crested Butte
Oddometer: 1,070
I want mine painted (covered) with Rhino Lining. It's chemical resistant.

Might be hard to do where body panels intersect without careful masking.
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My Bikes: '09 F800GS, '06 F650GS Dakard, '03 DL1000, '99 R1100S, '97 RMX250, '82 R100S/RS Cafe and '79 TT500
Family Bikes: '11 Sprint GT, '10 Thruxton, '09 F650GS, '07 CRF150RB, '98 DR350SE, '75 CB400F, '74 TL250, '71 CT90 and '69 CB450
RENT A BIKE @ Spur Cross Cycles
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Old 07-23-2013, 09:46 AM   #19
superkram OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 136
Pictures! Finally.

As promised, pictures of the current upgrades:

The DL1000 as it sits now with new windscreen, handlebars, & luggage:


Front view of Moose Racing tinted shorty screen:


Cockpit view of shorty screen + Moose Racing CR Hi handlebars:


T-982 top box (42L knockoff of Givi E45 Monokey):

Rear view. It mounted right onto the existing Givi Monokey top box mount. Was really surprised (in a good way) as I didn't have to do any of the fiddling or grinding warned about in the eBay ad for the T-982.


Side view. You can see I peeled off the silver stripes that originally came with the T-982 case. I may cut & fit some reflective material later, but was pleased with the appearance & function for now.


Another view:


Observations:

Handlebars:
The new handlebars made a huge difference for me. I'm a shade under 6'0 and have wide shoulders, long torso, and short arms (think Mike Tyson, NFL running back, OK OK I'm dreaming) so I need wide handlebars with very little sweep rearward. My wrists were much happier (as much I loved my FJR, this was something I never fully got right) and I was physically able to lean myself further into corners to feel more at one with the bike during turns.

Oddly enough, after 18 months of riding an FJR and 1st-gen FZ1 without a DL in the stable, my body wanted a slightly more leaned-forward position on the DL1K. The Moose CR Hi bars allowed me to have that upright, yet slightly forward-canted FZ1/FJR feeling, and I haven't felt the need or desire for barbacks/risers yet. We'll see with more miles, but I'm already very VERY happy with the wrist feel.

Givi E45 knockoff T-982 top box:
Fits great, holds my stuff with ease. 100% waterproof after 20 minutes of highway riding through an unavoidable Florida afternoon downpour. Mounts on and off the Givi top box mount with ease. No weird jiggles or adjustments to make it fit. Am very pleasantly surprised, and would gladly recommend to anyone.

Seeing how cheap the T-982 top boxes are, I'm now curious how it might work as a side case. If any riders with Givi Monokey side cases want to test how it fits, please give me a buzz. I'd be more than happy to ride somewhere and meet up for a test fitting/ride. In the name of science, of course.

Moose tinted shorty:
Not much to report. I haven't had much seat time on the highway with the screen yet. I personally prefer short/low screens for increased airflow here in hot, humid FL. Also, so wind noise has never been an issue for me. I'm deaf, use sign language, and never wear my hearing aid inside my helmet. Will ride more and report how it feels with various types of wind/buffeting after a while.

2mm rear spacer mod:
Not enough miles to report the effect, but I can feel a very slight reduction in chain vibration/resistance on the highway. I have no idea if it's quieter (see being deaf above) but can pinpoint vibrations better than most people. It *feels* slightly smoother. We'll see if it helps make the chain last 15K miles.
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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:15 AM   #20
precarious
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: New Hampshire
Oddometer: 550
4-pot calipers make a huge difference. Combined with SS lines, the Strom actually brakes really well.

The Progressive 465 shock is a great upgrade despite being inexpensive. The stock suspension is way too soft.

The National Cycle VStream windshield is awesome. With the Mad Stad bracket, it can be really tall or really short, and it eliminated all of my helmet buffeting.

Lots of opinions on seats. I loved my Sargent.

Why do you want to swap chain sizes? The 530 is heavier and the Strom doesn't really need it. As far as longevity, I got over 40K out of a DID chain. Even at that mileage, the only reason I had to replace it was it had a couple of kinks from where salt had gotten into it and corroded the links a bit.

You may not want to change top synthetic oil with 15k on it; experiences vary, but I switched to syn at about that point and it started leaking oil out of every rubber seal in the engine. Pain in the ass. I tried it again later on, and it started weeping out of the clutch pushrod seal. Screw it, I stuck with dino. The oil was still coming out clean at 90k miles.

Good luck with whatever you do.
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:09 PM   #21
superkram OP
Church parking lot rider
 
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 136
Quote:
Originally Posted by precarious View Post
4-pot calipers make a huge difference. Combined with SS lines, the Strom actually brakes really well.

The Progressive 465 shock is a great upgrade despite being inexpensive. The stock suspension is way too soft.
Both items are definitiely on my to-do list. Looking forward to upgrading front rotor with a 4-pot caliper bracket kit from SV Racing and coming up with a new suspension front & rear.

First through, I need to tackle paint and new aftermarket clutch basket.


Quote:
Originally Posted by precarious View Post
Lots of opinions on seats. I loved my Sargent.
Good news - just picked up a used Corbin locally for $200 on Craigslist this past weekend from another DL1000 rider. Pictures coming soon. We'll see how my butt fares!
__________________
"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:13 PM   #22
Jnich77
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Joined: Aug 2012
Location: Orlando Fl
Oddometer: 595
Quote:
Originally Posted by superkram View Post
As any rider knows, stopping for tolls and fumbling for change is a bigger PITA than in a cage. It's also hard to find a place to secure your toll transponder from targets of opportunity.

And frankly, sometimes suction cups or velcro just won't cut it on a bike. I've lost one suction-cupped SunPass transponder in the middle of a tropical downpour (don't ask) and always feel leery about leaving transponders unprotected in parking garages and downtown streets.

My solution on the DL1000 was to secure my SunPass transponder with a leftover piece of metal band between the mounting bolts of the Madstad bracket shown below. Very self explanatory, just unbolt the windscreen, cut your metal band to fit, and re-assemble using the regular bolts of your Madstad bracket.

Head-on view:


Right (starboard) bracket:


Left (port) bracket:


Top view:


Normal view standing near the Vee:


The SunPass transponder is still easily visible beneath a clear windscreen, but I plan to replace the factory windscreen with a tinted shorty version soon. Even if you use a clear windscreen, it would still take a dedicated thief 2-3 minutes to remove the windscreen and metal bracket to reach the transponder. You can replace the bracket screws with optional Torx bits for an added bit of security.

Hope this simple mod helps fellow riders who use EZ-Pass or SunPass toll transponders on their Madstad brackets!


You don't need to carry your sunpass, just go through the sunpass lane, they will use your tag# to bill you. I have done it that way for years and never had a single problem.

Or you can use 3M dual lock.... you have to put some effort to get it off, but it is still removable.

Jnich77 screwed with this post 07-23-2013 at 01:45 PM
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:42 AM   #23
superkram OP
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Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Central FL
Oddometer: 136
Corbin seat: The ReButtening

Picked up a used Corbin seat for $200 on Craigslist from a former DL1000 owner. Mounted on the DL1K last night, and WOW!



My butt is comfortable! I never really had issues with the stock seat on long trips with the DL650 or FJR, since I usually rode with padded mountain bike shorts underneath my jeans. However, I could tell right away the Corbin was much more plush while keeping my butt firmly in place. Kind of like experiencing a good Recaro seat for the first time.



Definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Will have to go out and put some miles on the seat soon! Will be tackling paint and a new Werks (realshelby) clutch after this. Am pleased how the DL1K is coming together so far...
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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro." -Hunter S. Thompson
Now: '01 R1150GS '94 R1100RS
Then: '07 B1250 '06 DL1000 '06 FJR '01 FZ1 '07 DL650 '73 CB350
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Old 09-12-2013, 03:15 PM   #24
LexLeroy
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Lexington, KY
Oddometer: 1,464
Quote:
Originally Posted by superkram View Post
Will be tackling paint and a new Werks (realshelby) clutch after this.
Spend the money on a decent clutch holding tool before you start pulling the clutch apart. Mine cost about $50 plus shipping out of the UK (eBay) but it worked just fine.
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