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Old 07-01-2013, 05:57 AM   #16
BergDonk OP
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Crash Bars



Some Altrider crash bars.




And a HB water pump guard. The wp guard goes under the crash bar mount onto the stock bar mount on the frame, spacing out the front 3 mm. After tightening it up from the LHS, this RHS mount was about 1 mm clear of the wp guard, and 8 mm clear at the back, so I machined up a spacer that you can see under the back bolt so that I didn't overstress it all by pulling it in.




Which has the benefit of adding a little more space to remove the panel to access the electrics and storage area underneath. The rag just means its less likely to get scratched.

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BergDonk's DR650 BergDonk's XT1200Z

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Old 07-01-2013, 06:00 AM   #17
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Rear Brake Reservoir Protection



The rear master cylinder reservoir is a bit vulnerable.




HB has a simple solution
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:06 AM   #18
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Top Box

I had a Kappa top box lying about in the shed, so decided to fit it.





Removed the standard rack top plate.



Machined up some spacers to get it level.




Bolted the top plate down with the stock bolts and one longer one up on the tail.




Fit the blanking panel and its good to go as a rack that's a bit bigger than stock.




Or with the monokey box clipped on.
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Old 07-01-2013, 06:07 AM   #19
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Bar Risers






Some bar risers needed. Rox has a nice solution that goes up and not back. All cables are fine with no tweaking needed.
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:45 AM   #20
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Heel Plate



The standard heel plate on the LHS stops about half way up compared to this Altrider version. Not impossible to hook your pants cuff over the stock one and find out about it as you attempt and fail to put your foot down when coming to a stop. Cheap easy fix.
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:52 AM   #21
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Footpegs

Some lower pegs for more leg room from SW Motech. Nice and grippy, and easy on the boot soles. Optional rubber pad that I left off. More leg room and the bar risers make it easy to transition to standing.





But a bit of a problem here because I need to lower the brake pedal but ran out of adjustment.




So remove the clevis and get some protection in place and the Dremel to the rescue, shortening the push rod. Its held in by a circlip according to the parts manual and removing it to the bench may entail bigger issues like the piston coming out, so decided to do this in situ. Worked fine.



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Old 07-04-2013, 01:57 AM   #22
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Panniers

Time to fit the factory panniers that were part of the package.



Lay all the bits out and decide I didn't like the Torx bolts, especially having just 2 of them as security ones. Normal bolts to the rescue.




All fitted up. It took a while to figure out the locking mechanism. When I found the red plastic bit on the front of the pannier it started to make sense Some loctite on the lock assemblies and should be OK. Not the beefiest of panniers, but hopefully they'll do the job for the time being.
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Old 07-04-2013, 03:36 PM   #23
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Good one mate.

Locktite on the locks is a good idea. As far as the panniers go, lots of people like them once they have figured the locks need special attention.

So have you ridden it much yet?
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Old 07-04-2013, 05:14 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
..........

So have you ridden it much yet?
Not yet, maybe 600 kms, but quality ones nevertheless. Apart form a few short test loops, did a couple of 100 with SWMBO up back last Sunday, and a trip to Canberra a couple of days ago. Back roads, sealed and unsealed and easy fire trails solo and 2 up have confrimed a few things that I sort of knew when I decided to buy it after the test ride.

Like all things, there are a couple of annoyances that'll I'll live with, or fix. Which reminds me a of a comment a mate of mine made years ago after we swapped bikes, 1998 ZX10s, on a trip to PI. He said that most people adapt to their environment, but you adapt the environment to suit you. I guess if you have a look at my DR build linked in my sig you'll understand why he said that.

So in no particular order, and no doubt incomplete:

Irritants
Why after all these years can't we get a fuel injected bike to have the same or better throttle response as a good carb setup? My first FI bike was a 1982 GPZ1100 which had the same issues as the XT1200Z. Primarily its snatchy and erratic from a closed or partly closed throttle, no matter which throttle mode is selected. Coming back from Canberra the other day via Tharwa and Namadgi there were 10-15 kms of resheeted road over the top. Still frosty in the afternoon in places, and greasy and sloppy in places from the water cart and compacting. Up on the pegs, weight back, and steady throttle, but It either accelerates, or slows, and won't maintain a steady speed. Probably 3rd gear and 50 kph. I can ride around it, but the carb bikes in my shed work much better. Maybe some $ and a reflash or PC will help, or I'll cope. Not a big issue, but why?

Digital speedos? The constantly changing numbers in my periphal vision are annoying. I prefer a good analogue dial.

The heat shield behind the LHS peg is a bit close to the peg when standing. Helps to lock the leg in like the Steg Pegz on my Berg, but it should be roomier. Something else to fix or live with.

The standard tool kit isn't much good for anything and looks like its a left over from the 1960s. Same tools, same plastic bag.

Why can't we have a reservoir and adjustable compression damping on the rear shock? 2 up with max preload and rebound it pogos once it warms up after a few hits. The fade resistance is addressed with a reservoir and maybe a bigger body, and with adjustable compression it could be resprung and valved to suit instead of being replaced.

The handguards can't be positioned independently to the levers, so when dropping the levers, the knuckle protection suffers, and it meant that I have a chip in the paint on the tank where the LHS mount impacted on full lock. Can't do it again with the bar risers, and barkbusters to come will fix it, but.....

More fuel range would be nice.

The factory bash plate isn't, but I was able to mostly swap it for a rear K60 with the dealer, so not all bad.

Why is it so heavy, and where is the weight?

The traction control settings default to 1, or full on when you start the engine, which means you have to remember to do it. I guess I will eventually remember. If you don't, with the shock set up as best I can, it still won't accelerate over corrugations and bumps, and actually slows down. TC2 is OK though, and of course it can just be switched off all together too

These are faily generic things that aren't peculiar to the S10, and as I said up top, irritants, not deal breakers, and have not been a surprise after purchase.

Likes
SWMBO reckons its great up back. She's been my pillion for over 30 years, so that's very important. She also still rides her own KLX250/300 in the bush.

Roomy ergos, and easy to refine to make it even better. Great seats. This is probably for me the most comfortable bike out of the box I've ridden.

Extensive aftermarket support. As much as I enjoy fixing and making things in the shed, I was keen to get it set up to a basic level where I am happy to ride it, and getting things almost overnight from the local agents that address things facilitates this.

Torquey responsive engine, with the above caveat.

Quality build, easy to work on with stainless fastenings. But why the mix of 6 pt, allen and torx heads.

Seamless shaft drive, which goes unnoticed for the most part. Just climbs up the crownwheel under hard acceleration to remind you.

Good handling with precise steering, although stands up a bit too much when transitioning to power. Some setup will likely improve this.

Having critisized the shock above, I can still say that its likely the best suspended stock bike I've ridden. But, it will be better when I've finished.

You can't feel the weight when riding it, but your brain tells you that if it gets away, it'll be hard to reign back in.

The BS Battle Wing tyres are much better on gravel than their looks suggest, inspiring confidence, but I'll be happier with knobbys.

Still to come is:
Tank bag
heated grips
clutch and abs switch
driving lights
tool kit
shock
fork upgrade
bark busters
GPS mount
fender extender and maybe lift the guard

Then is should be good to go for heaps of kms, looking forward to it.
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Old 07-04-2013, 07:04 PM   #25
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Barkbusters



As mentioned above, when rotating the controls the standard handguards go too, and in my case tip down too far and offer limited protection. Its winter here and I haven't got my heated grips yet, still enroute, so some protection from windchill if nothing else will be good.





A set of Barkbusters Storm form SW Motech. Not sure if these have gone from Wollongong to Germany, then Perth to get here, but it wouldn't surprise me. Laid out on the bench to check its all there.





Removed the standard ones, including the brackets off the mirror stalks and lever pivots and stored away for?





Test fit all the metal bits and its all fits just so, nice, no mods needed. I know its sold as a XT1200Z set, but......





All finished and now I have some knuckle protection, and the aluminium spine makes for a stronger setup, with better protection for the levers. I don't think I've ever broken a lever with an aluminium spine type barkbuster. Have without though
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:02 AM   #26
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Irritants

Why after all these years can't we get a fuel injected bike to have the same or better throttle response as a good carb setup? My first FI bike was a 1982 GPZ1100 which had the same issues as the XT1200Z. Primarily its snatchy and erratic from a closed or partly closed throttle, no matter which throttle mode is selected. Coming back from Canberra the other day via Tharwa and Namadgi there were 10-15 kms of resheeted road over the top. Still frosty in the afternoon in places, and greasy and sloppy in places from the water cart and compacting. Up on the pegs, weight back, and steady throttle, but It either accelerates, or slows, and won't maintain a steady speed. Probably 3rd gear and 50 kph. I can ride around it, but the carb bikes in my shed work much better. Maybe some $ and a reflash or PC will help, or I'll cope. Not a big issue, but why?
Maybe you should make sure it is really tuned well. Can't say that is something I have noticed. However I do tend to pop it into T mode when off road.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Digital speedos? The constantly changing numbers in my periphal vision are annoying. I prefer a good analogue dial.
I don't know why with all the computing power around these days why they just can't emulate an analogue speedo.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The heat shield behind the LHS peg is a bit close to the peg when standing. Helps to lock the leg in like the Steg Pegz on my Berg, but it should be roomier. Something else to fix or live with.
Yep. Take it off and smell the burning rubber in the morning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The standard tool kit isn't much good for anything and looks like its a left over from the 1960s. Same tools, same plastic bag.
You should have spent a lot more and bought a BMW..


Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Why can't we have a reservoir and adjustable compression damping on the rear shock? 2 up with max preload and rebound it pogos once it warms up after a few hits. The fade resistance is addressed with a reservoir and maybe a bigger body, and with adjustable compression it could be resprung and valved to suit instead of being replaced.
YAMAHA has a price point. That's the way it goes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The handguards can't be positioned independently to the levers, so when dropping the levers, the knuckle protection suffers, and it meant that I have a chip in the paint on the tank where the LHS mount impacted on full lock. Can't do it again with the bar risers, and barkbusters to come will fix it, but.....
Yep.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
More fuel range would be nice.
I can get 500Km MAX to sputter if I need to. But it would be good to have an option to not have to baby it for that range..


Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The factory bash plate isn't, but I was able to mostly swap it for a rear K60 with the dealer, so not all bad.
Stone guard is what it is. Anything that touches the bottom plate is a stone guard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Why is it so heavy, and where is the weight?
It's tough. That's all there is to it. Probably tougher than 95% of people need. Actually it weighs about the same as a GSA with the same fuel load. They need a Coffee shop / Cafe version. There are V-MAX bits in the drive train as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
The traction control settings default to 1, or full on when you start the engine, which means you have to remember to do it. I guess I will eventually remember. If you don't, with the shock set up as best I can, it still won't accelerate over corrugations and bumps, and actually slows down. TC2 is OK though, and of course it can just be switched off all together too
They err on the side of safety which also happens to be the side of inconvenience.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Still to come is:
Tank bag
heated grips
clutch and abs switch
driving lights
tool kit
shock
fork upgrade
bark busters
GPS mount
fender extender and maybe lift the guard

Then is should be good to go for heaps of kms, looking forward to it.
Well I will watch with interest..

PS. If you need to get rid of some of your cans just PM me and maybe a few others..
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:28 AM   #27
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It was pretty blustery yesterday and cold with fesh snow falling up the hill, so I thought I'd go for a run to town to see how it feels in a strong wind with the panniers on.

No problems as it happens. nice and stable and hardly blown about at all, nice





But







when I removed the LHS pannier, the rubber that locates the bottom front came with it. These are tapered and give fore aft location as well as left right. I wondered how secure they'd be when installing as they just push on, so I even glued them. You can see the white glues residue in there.




I decided a pair of 5 mm roll pins each side would do the trick.





Squeezed in with the multigrips and tapped the last bit with hammer and pin punch. Hopefully sorted now. Interestingly, I haven't seen reference to this as an issue in my googling.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:26 AM   #28
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Always interesting to see other people's mods and hear their perspectives on the bike. I never give the digital speedo a second thought while riding but the seat has my full attention after about 5 hours in the saddle.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:39 AM   #29
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Quote:
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.........

PS. If you need to get rid of some of your cans just PM me and maybe a few others..
Any particular cans you had in mind? I acquire in bulk
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:08 AM   #30
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Always interesting to see other people's mods and hear their perspectives on the bike. ..........
Yep, that's why I'm here, and for the social occasion and networking

Quote:
Originally Posted by twinrider View Post
...........I never give the digital speedo a second thought while riding but the seat has my full attention after about 5 hours in the saddle.
No doubt I'll adapt

I've yet to do more than a 2 hour stint but, so far, its excellent. I did acquire a lambskin car seat cover the other day. It was orphan single sample for $50, so that will be delivered to my local upholsterer with the seats on Monday for some covers to be made up. I've had sheep/lamb skins on my road bikes since the 70s because they work, and this one will be no different.
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