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Old 07-15-2013, 04:26 PM   #46
BergDonk OP
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Location: Snowy Mountains Oz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llamapacker View Post
Mine did hit the Hepco & Becker bashplate on hard offroad trip. Broke the fender nearly in half. I taped it to get home.

If you cut 1-1/2" off the bottom of fenderextender it will be okay.
Thanks, I shall revisit. I have some new fork springs to fit, and some other work to do in the forks, but I may just pull the fork caps and see what happens in the interim. Fork flex in a big hit is no doubt a factor too.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:11 PM   #47
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Fender Extender, Again

So after the feedback above, I decided a better check was in order.



Removed the handlebars and lay them forwards without out of the way after putting an alignment mark on the clamp with a fine point marker. Then attached my engine crane with some soft ties to the bar risers.





I removed the top triple clamp bolts. Only necessary to loosen them, but might as well put some antisieze on when assembling them to facilitate accurate torquing later. I then unscrewed the fork caps and lowered the front gently with the crane.





With the forks collapsed at a measured 206 mm, ie the dust seal on the zip tie, otherwise its 208 mm from the outer tube to the axle carrier. A bit more than the quoted 190 mm, but no idea yet how the top out and bottoming cushion works.





<> 20 mm clearance from the tyre to the bash plate at 206 mm, and about 2 mm from the fender extender to the header. As I suspected, the header is probably too close at full travel. It wouldn't get ripped off, but maybe a bit melted.






190 mm doesn't make much difference.






With the end of the extender aligned with the bash plate at 140 mm travel there is <> 10 mm clearance. Should be enough, but with flex from airflow and fork flex on a big hit, maybe not.







A 70 mm trim will do.






Back together and should now be OK, if it wasn't before.



I recall years ago balancing the front wheel after I fitted a new tyre to my then new GPZ1100B2. A mate had access to a dynamic balancer intended for cars that did the balancing insitu. We strapped the bike down on the centre stand and back wheel and engaged the drive drum to the front and spun it up. It indicated <> 130 kph and the forks were flexing and pogoing such that the axle was oscillating perhaps 25 mm. Scarey Just 1/4 oz, or 7 g fixed it.

I've been keen on wheel balancing ever since, and have a heightened awareness of fork tube flex. It was something that I noticed with the USD conversion to my DR650, among other benefits more precise feedback when braking and turning which I attributed to less flex. How much, dunno, but they all flex.
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Old 07-17-2013, 01:39 AM   #48
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Gear Lever

Having big feet, I usually get some value out of lengthening brake and especially gear levers. The S10 rear brake is OK, but the gear lever is a bit short, and I'd prefer a folding tip. The stock gear lever is steel, so easy enough for me to sort.




eBay came up with a 'Pit Bike' billet assembly for $18.





I fabricated a new lever end in steel to suit the new folding tip and cut the original off and welded the new one on. The lever is now about 20 mm longer than the original. Then added a splash of silver paint.






Good to go
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Old 07-17-2013, 02:02 AM   #49
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Nice job.
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Old 07-19-2013, 03:04 PM   #50
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You're doing some great work there. Keep us in touch with the latest.

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Old 07-19-2013, 04:27 PM   #51
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+1,

Almost time to change the username to WaspDonk.
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:35 PM   #52
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+1,

Almost time to change the username to WaspDonk.
Needs more stickers to be in Jaumev's league.
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Old 07-19-2013, 04:35 PM   #53
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Out to the shed now to do some wiring. Still haven't got all the switches for all the wiring I want to do, but I NEED heated grips NOW. Off to Biketek next week where my mate Frank Pons will indertake some fork surgery and supply a new Ohlins for up back

More coming
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:39 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Out to the shed now to do some wiring. Still haven't got all the switches for all the wiring I want to do, but I NEED heated grips NOW. Off to Biketek next week where my mate Frank Pons will indertake some fork surgery and supply a new Ohlins for up back

More coming
You guys and your crazy backwards climate.

ac
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:34 PM   #55
GrahamD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Out to the shed now to do some wiring. Still haven't got all the switches for all the wiring I want to do, but I NEED heated grips NOW. Off to Biketek next week where my mate Frank Pons will indertake some fork surgery and supply a new Ohlins for up back

More coming
Glad to see you spending the money saved over another brand wisely.

Since I am watching you spend money could you buy a Hyperpro 3D and tell me the difference. Thanks in advance, much appreciated.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:32 AM   #56
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You guys and your crazy backwards climate.

ac
So what's backwards?

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Old 07-20-2013, 03:34 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
Glad to see you spending the money saved over another brand wisely.
...........
Explain this to my wife

Quote:
Originally Posted by GrahamD View Post
...............
Since I am watching you spend money could you buy a Hyperpro 3D and tell me the difference. Thanks in advance, much appreciated.
No
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:44 AM   #58
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Here's the first one I built. Happened in the late 70s and I learnt heaps.





CB500 with monocoque frame made by me.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=272

The S10 is just farkling.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:08 PM   #59
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Some Electrics

So a couple of miserable weather days over the weekend were perfect for spending some quality shed time with the S10. Of all the bits I was waiting for, only 2 waterproof switches are still to arrive, but I figured I could get it mostly sorted and come back to the switches later.






Pull the sidecover at have a good look at what's available. There are 2 connectors unused low down, the 3 wire one is for the factory optional running lights. I noted that the circuit is only switched by the ignition, and not high beam, so only running lights, and I had acquired a pair of 30w 3000 lumen driving lights so need a high beam circuit to switch them. The 4 wire connector is for the factory heated grips which I didn't get, figuring I have a cheaper alternative. As wires from this go to the ECU, its not clear how its supposed to work, but the 3 wire one has a brown wire to the ignition, a red wire to the battery via the 20A fuse in the bottom of the RHS block, and an earth, so useful.





Fitted up the heated grip pads, $6 on eBay with some new Protaper Pillow Cushion grips. The standard grips are 14 mm longer than standard dirtbike grips, so I machined up some spacers out of delrin bar to take up the space. Next to the stock LHS switch block is a eBay pit bike switch. The red button is on/off, and the bottom yellow one is momentary contact. Further inboard is the Tusk controller for the heated grips. Its a pulse type with 5 heat settings and comes with ATV grips and a nice wiring harness. I cut the grips off, and spliced in the alternate pads to the wiring harness.






3 new relays flexiblly fitted to the blank space in the upper RHS of the electrical panel. The 80A left one is for the heated grips and a couple power outlets in the tank bag. It gets its power from the 3 wire connector described above, so switched with the ignition. I also tapped in to the unswitched supply for the GPS, which will have an on/off switch added later. I prefer to leave it on all day.

The second 80A relay also access the ignition circuit and is powered by switching its coil earth via the new momentary contact switch on the bars. These 2 80A realys are SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw), so the switch contacts are on when powered like normal, but also the other contact is powered when its unpowered. So, with no power, it connects the feed that I cut into from the 30A ABS fuse to the ABS controller for normal operation, but if I press and hold the yellow button on the bars for a moment it fires the relay, disconnecting the ABS power, killing the ABS and the warning light comes on on the dash. The ABS is reset by shutting down and restarting. Now I have a choice

The new upper red switch piggy backs onto the clutch switch which changes the engine map, so on or off to suit, dead easy

The third relay is for the driving lights, switched by the high beam circuit and powered direct from the battery via a fuse.









All works, so back together with the exception of override switches for the GPS and driving lights.

Thanks to those who previously figured out and posted the ABS bypass and clutch switch tricks

New suspension is later this week
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Old 07-26-2013, 02:15 AM   #60
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Suspension - Phase 1

I went to visit my mate Frank Pons at his business, Biketek in Sydney, and had a fun ride the back way getting there on some back roads and easy fire trails. I met Frank about 12 years ago when I needed suspension work done on one of my bikes and he's been doing mine ever since. Frank has been preparing and repairing bikes for over 40 years. As a rider in his younger days he has won road and off road championships, and as a rider mentor, team manager, mechanic, and suspension guru he has won countless Club, State and National titles with riders from the past like Stephen Gall, Anthony Gunter, Anthony Gobert, Mat Mladin, Wayne Clark, right through to the current day. He has been contracted to the major bike and tyre manufacturers at some point, and is a legend in my, and many others' eyes.

I spoke to him about the S10, and we agreed that an Ohlins would be good up back, and up front some straight rate springs and some valve work would likely sort the forks. Frank had never had an S10 apart, so this would be new to him and he likes a challenge.









Frank is the NSW Ohlins agent, so an Ohlins was an obvious choice. A even stiffer Eibach spring in addition to the stiffer Ohlins spring to try too. Fork springs are hard to come by for the S10, but Sonic in the US make them and I got 2 sets through Nick at Stoltec in the US.






Ready to remove the shock. It comes out real easy, drop the dogbones from one end, raise the wheel a bit, and then top and bottom bolts and it lifts out.





Before fitting, we decided to have a look inside the Ohlins. Frank had all the shim specs and thought he could improve it for my needs.





3 spacers are on the shaft. We decided that some more ride height would be nice, and by removing the 10 mm blue spacer, we'd also lengthen the shaft travel by the same amount.






Adjusting the shim stack to suit.






Checking out the springs. The Eibach is shorter, but fits OK.






As others have identified, like Wasp, the Ohlins recommended arrangement for the preload adjuster and cannister isn't real pretty. Wasp put his cannister behind the engine on the LHS but Frank reckoned this location could be subject to engine heat, so we roughed up this arrangement for initial testing. It also became apparent that the 10 mm spacer removed lifted the rear over 35 mm and we reckon that's a bit too much, so it came out and was pulled apart again and the spacers rearranged for about 28 mm lift, which may still be an issue which I'll discuss later.






Pull the forks down and as other have observed, not dissimilar inside to earlier R6 and R1 forks of which Frank has done many.






Opening up the compression valve bodies and playing with the shim stacks.






Forks ready for reassembly.


It all went back together and I slabbed it home. First impressions are positive, but slabbing doesn't tell me much, so I now need to test. One issue may be the rear raise as I think I noticed an increase in vibration which may result from the increased uni angle in the driveshaft. I'll put the stock shock back and compare back to back. I also have some springs to play with, front and rear, and a variety or clickers and preloads, so to be continued......
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