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Old 09-12-2013, 07:12 AM   #91
avc8130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BergDonk View Post
Along with opening up the bleeds, he rearranged the compression stack for more oil flow and less high speed damping. The rebound stacks he reckoned looked OK for the time being.

And even with the mods he did to the compression, I still have the adjusters backed right off.

All good stuff, and part of the learning experience.
I'm surprised you have the compression adjustors all the way out w/ 5W oil.

Did he do any mods to the pistons to increase flow?

ac
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Old 09-12-2013, 04:34 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
I'm surprised you have the compression adjustors all the way out w/ 5W oil.

Did he do any mods to the pistons to increase flow?

ac
Yes

Drilled bleeds and removed the 'stopper' I think its called, big thick spacer for less hs comp and rearranged the stack.

It is way better than stock, for me, but its still not what I know it can be. I'm fussy, because I know how good its going to be, just not this week
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:45 PM   #93
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Yes

Drilled bleeds and removed the 'stopper' I think its called, big thick spacer for less hs comp and rearranged the stack.

It is way better than stock, for me, but its still not what I know it can be. I'm fussy, because I know how good its going to be, just not this week
Did he open up the ports on the piston to increase flow to/through the shims? Do you have any pictures of what he did?

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Old 09-12-2013, 05:52 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
Did he open up the ports on the piston to increase flow to/through the shims? Do you have any pictures of what he did?

ac
No and no.
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:56 PM   #95
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Gather since you done all that to the bike you did'nt really like it anyway , might has well suck it up now , not waste any more money , i've got a 2012 wee strom , bought it new 2 months ago 1800 klm on it , couple of little extras , box, bash plate , bark busters , centre stand , shorty seat for short arses ,

I'll be willing to trade it in on your tenere
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Old 09-12-2013, 06:59 PM   #96
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Gather since you done all that to the bike you did'nt really like it anyway , might has well suck it up now , not waste any more money , i've got a 2012 wee strom , bought it new 2 months ago 1800 klm on it , couple of little extras , box, bash plate , bark busters , centre stand , shorty seat for short arses ,

I'll be willing to trade it in on your tenere
The kindness and generous nature of inmates never ceases to amaze me. Bless you coneye.
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #97
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Gather since you done all that to the bike you did'nt really like it anyway , might has well suck it up now , not waste any more money , i've got a 2012 wee strom , bought it new 2 months ago 1800 klm on it , couple of little extras , box, bash plate , bark busters , centre stand , shorty seat for short arses ,

I'll be willing to trade it in on your tenere
Seems like a deal,

BUT

why would I be doing this if I didn't like the bike? I really like it, as a tourer that's fun on ANY road, and easy trails (and 2 up too). Its better than any BMW I've tried for this use, although I've yet to try the latest wassers.

A 990 KTM is a better dirt bike, but not as good at carrying a load, an 1190/1190R is too fragile, and all the rest aren't as dirt worthy.

If I want to get dirtier though, I have my DR650, or my FE650, or my Scorpa SY250, so bikes for courses, as they say, are here.

I have a history of making things suit me better though, and this is the latest example, a great bike made better, for me
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:14 AM   #98
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Rack

I decided I quite like the idea of the AltRider rack. Makes available use of the space underneath the rack that stock, a lump of plastic occupies.









But I decided I could liberate some more space for my application, not needing the rack to line up with the removed pillion seat rack, so I pared off in the lathe 10 mm from the bottom 4 spacers, and made up 4 x 22 mm spacers to make a bigger space.







Might fit a tube or something in there.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:24 AM   #99
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Spokes

I like to pull my new spoked wheels apart and reassemble them with antiseize on the nipple threads and under the head of the nipple. This means if and when maintenance is needed, its not made more difficult by corroded and seized nipples.

On the S10, because of the tubless arrangement with reverse spokes, it was easy enough to remove one nipple at a time, all in situ, and liberally apply some copper antiseize. The tension on each spoke was consistent, 180 deg, or a half turn after it stopped turning freely, so returned to that position, and rim trueness was unchanged. Just need a long allen key for the front wheel.





Slowly getting it all setup
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Old 09-19-2013, 08:35 PM   #100
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While I had the shock in and out I'd taken the opportunity to lube up the link bearings. As usual, not much in there from the factory. I like to pack them solid with grease so that if anything does get past a seal, it still has a grease barrier to deal with before it gets to wearing bits.

The problem was that to get the link out of the frame, the exhaust headers need to come off because the cat is in the way of getting the bolt out. So this week it was off with the bash plate and headers, which is straightforward, once you track the sensor cables back to their connectors and unplug them.

The bolt could, with some minor frame mods, be fitted from the RHS, so I might do that another day.

Interestingly, there was evidence of both manifold gaskets having minor leaks. I reinstalled after liberally 'copper coating' them and seems good now.





And while I had the bash plate off I decided to cut the lug off the sump, just in case. Just get down there with a hacksaw and how hard could it be?

Easy as it happens, because its hollow and the hacksaw blade was well lubricated



Bugger!!!! If I'd cut a bit lower it'd be fine, but! So I removed the front sump plug and an exact litre came out, cleaned up the leak area and epoxied it up. Hopefully OK, and so far, so good.


Another project I'd had in mind was to make up a jack to get the front wheel off the ground on the road if needed. A bit of threaded bar, a few nuts, some tube and washers and it works.








Off riding it this weekend and hopefully the oil stays inside
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Old 09-20-2013, 05:15 PM   #101
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You are not the first Donk. Someone else discovered they are hollow before you. To bad we didn't get the chance to enlighten you. I think the other feller took his off and welded it. The webs we weave
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Old 09-20-2013, 10:37 PM   #102
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Another project I'd had in mind was to make up a jack to get the front wheel off the ground on the road if needed. A bit of threaded bar, a few nuts, some tube and washers and it works.




Nice job on the jack.
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Old 09-22-2013, 01:52 AM   #103
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You are not the first Donk. Someone else discovered they are hollow before you. To bad we didn't get the chance to enlighten you. I think the other feller took his off and welded it. The webs we weave
Happens like this sometimes. Lots of parallel development/cockups over the years.

I've now done about 5 cold starts, 500 kms and a few redlines to build some crankcase pressure, and it is fine so far.

Next option is welding, but I don't think it'll be needed. Still might pull the sump and weld it later, we'll see.

I also cut a bigger hole in the bash plate so that if it takes a hit near to the lug, it'll collapse over the lug without contact.


Quote:
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Nice job on the jack.
Ta


And if I haven't mentioned it already, I'm really enjoying this bike
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Old 09-22-2013, 02:06 AM   #104
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Surging

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...............

Interestingly, there was evidence of both manifold gaskets having minor leaks. I reinstalled after liberally 'copper coating' them and seems good now.

..........
And I should also mention that after this weekend's ride the surging seems less. Especially this afternoon when we, ie me and SWMBO pillioning, did 40 kms of gravel with some clay patches after a storm had wet it down.

I really think the part throttle control is better, and the only thing I can come up with is the now properly sealed manifold gaskets.

Normally a leaking manifold gasket can sound like a tappet, but I hadn't noticed any excessive noise, in fact they really are too quiet stock. But its marginally quieter now, and surges less, if at all.

It'd be interesting if someone else pulled their header and had a good look at the gaskets and then gooed them up on reassembly.
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Old 09-28-2013, 02:19 AM   #105
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Back to the Forks

I needed to pull the forks apart to check oil levels and play with springs etc. To do this, because of the stiff springs, I needed a better way of pulling the forks apart than my traditional methods so I fabricated a compressor out of some scrap, including an old screw car jack. With full electronic control, it works a treat





Checked the oil level, and its at 150 mm, and at spec.

The damper rod had 12 mm thread exposed as per spec under the cap, and the rebound clickers were at 13 mm, at spec too.

So wanting to get a more linear fork action, and still not getting all the travel with the 0.85 springs, what to do? Although after a real big hit last weekend, I probably did get close @ 170 mm travel on the O ring. A sharp edged hole about 6-8" deep hit about 80 kph 2 up. No deflection, no rim damage, so can't be too bad as is.

So I decided to try the stiffer 0.95 springs, as I had them anyway, and see what happens.





One feature of the Sonic springs that we hadn't been too keen on was the lack of tapering at the top like the stock springs. This means the springs aren't properly centred on the stock spacer and they rattle around inside the fork. You can hear them over broken ground. So I machined up some bushes out of nylon to take up the slop. I also added a steel washer to better seat the springs too.





In the pic above there are 4 springs. The 2 in the middle with the spacers opposite are of interest here. The upper of the 2 is a stock spring and if you look closely you can see the top of the spring tapering to centre neatly on the spacer. The lower of the 2 is the Sonic, and the spacer has my nylon bush and washer fitted. The 0.95 Sonics are also 5 mm shorter than stock, and the washer and the lip on the bush combine for 5 mm, so much of a muchness now for overall length.





In this pic, 2 Sonic springs. The one on the right has the spacer pushed to one side, off centre, the left one has my new bush on and is centred.





So back to the compressor and reassemble. Should have made one of these years ago!


I got a short ride in and I'm a bit confused, or not. No big hits yet, just up the road a bit from here, sealed and unsealed, so travel is an unknown, but no reason for it to be any different, except less.

Aiming for the lumps and bumps, it does however feel better, smoother in the initial travel, I assume because its sitting up more in the stroke. I now have 30 mm static sag vs 50 mm, and 50 mm vs 73 mm laden. Rough numbers because I was checking them on my own, but indicative. This is with the external adjusters screwed out. The steering has changed a bit too due the extra ride height, so more opportunities to fiddle with fork height. It actually feels like stock, without the rear ride height increase, and I suppose that's to be expected, and I quite like it this way too.

There is less jarring feedback through the bars, and the forks now feel well matched to the shock, with the front and rear responding much the same. And I can't hear the springs rattling in my driveway anymore

Comp clickers are still wound right out, and rebound is at 7 clicks. Gotta find some bigger hits now to see how much travel its readily accessing, but whatever, they are now really good.

More riding and fine tuning to come
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