ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Fluff > Shiny things
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rating: Thread Rating: 5 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 07-17-2013, 09:43 PM   #31
Purcell69 OP
Mors ex Tenebris
 
Purcell69's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,693
While I was tinkering with the Dodge today, I started to disassemble the dashboard and steering column. Actually the sun started disassembling the dashboard long ago. Like most of these mid-90's Ram trucks, the dashboard plastic falls apart with just a glance. No problem since I'm not keeping it. Less screws to remove for me.

I did start unplugging the wire harness in the cab in an attempt to make my job easier when it comes time to mate the Dodge harness to the Ron Francis harness I have in the 1957 now. I'm no electronics whiz, but I am certain I can mate the two for a running truck.

I also took a closer look at the 360 Magnum that came with the Dodge. As I said before, the PO was less than kind to it. After overheating it, he started to disassemble the motor and then stopped, making little effort to protect what he had from the elements. The Texas registration expired in 2009, so the truck has been sitting broken for at least 4 years. There is no telling how long the motor sat open. I also noticed a quickie freeze plug repair on the driver's side. All of this and some interwebs research about the 5.2 and 5.9 Magnum engines has me thinking I may just buy a cheap 5.2L engine and go through it rather than mess with resurrecting the 360. The 5.9L (360) is a notorious gas guzzler. 12 MPG seems to be the norm, with well tuned, frugal driving netting around 16+ MPG. The 318 (5.2L) seems to be a bit better with peak MPG coming in at 18-19 MPG, all else being equal.

I'm not building this with any expectation of stellar mileage, but I don't want to have to stop and fill up every 200 miles either. That really takes away from the enjoyment factor. This was the whole reason I had been considering the Jeep 4.0L engine and AW-4 automatic. Since I have sold off all the Jeep parts, the 318 looks more like the way to go. I don't need tire smoke and I don't need towing capacity, so I don't think I will regret the smaller motor in this case.

-Joe
__________________
The Marines...When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight.

Trust and Respect take years to earn, but can be lost in a moment.

Life's too short to hold a grudge. -Joe
Purcell69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2013, 10:50 PM   #32
troidus
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 13,363
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
The 5.9L (360) is a notorious gas guzzler. 12 MPG seems to be the norm, with well tuned, frugal driving netting around 16+ MPG.
I had one in a '76 Aspen. I once had to drive it from Wichita to Hays, KS, and back. With incidental driving, call it 400 miles. 27 gallons of gas and 25 quarts of oil, and this was nearly all highway at 60 mph in February. And yeah, I pulled over every 40 miles to add oil.
troidus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2013, 05:38 AM   #33
liquidsmile
Beastly Adventurer
 
liquidsmile's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Woodstock, Ga
Oddometer: 1,352
Drop a 12V Cummins in that truck. That would be sweet!
liquidsmile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2013, 03:17 PM   #34
Purcell69 OP
Mors ex Tenebris
 
Purcell69's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidsmile View Post
Drop a 12V Cummins in that truck. That would be sweet!
A 12v Cummins or even a 4BT would be sweet, but I would have to buy stock in Loctite in order to keep all the nuts and bolt that hold the '57 together from vibrating apart.

-Joe
__________________
The Marines...When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight.

Trust and Respect take years to earn, but can be lost in a moment.

Life's too short to hold a grudge. -Joe
Purcell69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2013, 04:46 PM   #35
Purcell69 OP
Mors ex Tenebris
 
Purcell69's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,693
No pics today. I did manage to get a few more of the rivets out using the grind, drill, hammer method. As of right now, I have five out of the 14 completely removed. There is only one rivet left holding the crossmember in place. I would have got it out today, but the cord on my small grinder has a broken wire in it. I could have used the big Craftsman, but that thing weighs a ton and I really was not fond of the idea of holding it over my head while laying on my back to grind the one rivet on the bottom of the frame. I'll fix the DeWalt cord and be back in business this weekend.

I also unbolted the rear axle at the spring hangers. This allowed me to rotate the front of the leaf springs downward to gain access to the bottom rear rivets that hold the spring hangers to the frame. I still have four all four rivets to grind on the passenger side and the rear two on the driver's side. The frame is currently supported on jackstands behind the cab. When I start driving out the spring hanger rivets, I will support the subframe with my engine crane to equalize the load.

I also got a bit ahead of myself in freeing up the rear axle. To make things easy, I need to slip it back in place for a minute and mark the axle centerline on the subframe rails, that way I will have a reference point to make sure everything goes back together squarely, since the front hangers will be loose from the frame. The holes in the subframe will serve to index where I need to drill the holes for the hangers, but I need to be sure teh subframe is in the right place before I start drilling. Since the axle will be loose at that time, I need to make a reference mark on the subframe. Fortunately, it only takes about 5 minutes or less to move the axle back in to position.

I have also been researching the the CNG option. The multiport fuel injection unit is about $600, not including the tank. Tanks on the other hand are where the real expense comes in. New tanks in a reasonable capacity are pricey. Granted, the state offers a 50% tax credit, but I would end up having to mount two CNG tanks in the bed in order to have a practical amount of CNG fuel on board. This part of the plan is way, way back on the rear burner for now.

-Joe
__________________
The Marines...When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight.

Trust and Respect take years to earn, but can be lost in a moment.

Life's too short to hold a grudge. -Joe
Purcell69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2013, 08:34 PM   #36
Purcell69 OP
Mors ex Tenebris
 
Purcell69's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,693
I got up early this morning and fixed the cord on the DeWalt. For as long as I've had it, I can remember the outer insulation on the cord appearing old and dry rotted. Several years ago, the part of the cord that meets the boot that extends from the grinder's handle lost all the insulation for about 1". I knew it was a matter of time before the wires would break, but I use this tool so often that I really did not want to send it in for a new cord and be without the grinder. I just kept using it, being mindful to watch for tight bends or exposed copper. Not wanting to take the whole thing apart, I cut out the broken piece of wire and soldered and heat wrapped everything back together before wrapping it with electrician's tape. I added a zip tie for good measure to keep the black tape from coming undone. This repair will probably get me by for at least another 20 years.



With the grinder fixed and a little spare time left before I had to get ready to run to Tulsa, I set about grinding that last upside down rivet that was keeping me from removing the crossmember. With the DeWalt fixed, I had the rivet head ground off and was ready to drill. I also took the time to pick up a few new drill bits yesterday. With sharp bits and the smaller grinder, I had the crossmember out and on the ground in roughly 10 minutes.







No job is complete until "Helper Kitty" signs off on it.

After I got back from Tulsa and had a bite of dinner and a short nap (that drive gets to me sometimes), I set back to my task of grinding the remaining rivet heads. Out of 14, I had six remaining. Between the newly repaired DeWalt and my dinosaur Craftsman, I managed to get the last six ground flush before dark.





All that is left is a little drilling and hammer time. It was really tempting to just go for it tonight, but I need to get some 1/2" diameter bolts to drop in to where the crossmember was, in order to help support the subframe while I drive out these last 8 rivets. Ace Hardware had already closed for the night, so this will have to wait until morning.

Meanwhile, I did get my measurements made and reference points set. I also picked up a goody while I was in Tulsa today.



My Craigslist find from last week, the shorter 26 gallon fuel tank, complete with heat shield, to replace the 35 gallon tank that came in the former long bed pickup truck.

-Joe
__________________
The Marines...When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight.

Trust and Respect take years to earn, but can be lost in a moment.

Life's too short to hold a grudge. -Joe
Purcell69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2013, 07:45 PM   #37
wavygravy87
Gnarly Adventurer
 
wavygravy87's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Abalabama
Oddometer: 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
A 12v Cummins or even a 4BT would be sweet, but I would have to buy stock in Loctite in order to keep all the nuts and bolt that hold the '57 together from vibrating apart.

-Joe
A buddy of mine just got his project running and driving. It's real similar to yours, so I thought you may like to see it. He put a '55 Chevy on a '91 Dodge 1-ton 4x4 chassis. Kept the Cummins and the 5 speed. But his Chevy was already rattled to pieces He's still workin out the bugs with the suspension and stuff, but he drives it regularly. Gets around 23mpg on the highway even with the 37 in tires. The diesel is big, heavy, stinky and crude but you can't argue with the mileage for the power it puts down. But I its waaay overkill unless you plan on towing a bunch of heavy junk.

You got a sweet build comin up! I'll be keeping a check on it!

Here's his rig as it sits now. Obviously its not planned to be a beauty queen, more of a trail truck and occasional heavy crap mover:
__________________
You'll never make it out of this life alive anyway, so try and make it a wild ride.

2009 Suzuki DR650
2008 Yamaha FZ6
wavygravy87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2013, 09:24 PM   #38
Purcell69 OP
Mors ex Tenebris
 
Purcell69's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by wavygravy87 View Post
A buddy of mine just got his project running and driving. It's real similar to yours, so I thought you may like to see it. He put a '55 Chevy on a '91 Dodge 1-ton 4x4 chassis. Kept the Cummins and the 5 speed. But his Chevy was already rattled to pieces He's still workin out the bugs with the suspension and stuff, but he drives it regularly. Gets around 23mpg on the highway even with the 37 in tires. The diesel is big, heavy, stinky and crude but you can't argue with the mileage for the power it puts down. But I its waaay overkill unless you plan on towing a bunch of heavy junk.

You got a sweet build comin up! I'll be keeping a check on it!

Here's his rig as it sits now. Obviously its not planned to be a beauty queen, more of a trail truck and occasional heavy crap mover:
Very nicely done! I know he has more to do, but what a great start. Back when they first started putting the Cummins into the Dodge trucks, there were issues with the 4wd chassis. As I recall, I believe it had something to do with cracks around the front leaf springs and possibly the steering box. That Cummins motor is HEAVY. That was part of the reason for the coil spring, solid axle, box tube frame chassis that came out in 1994. The 12 valve motors are hard to beat for simplicity and economy though. Just out of curiosity, what brake booster is he running in the bottom pic? I used a Ford T-bird set-up when I went to power brakes, but I don't think it will be enough for the full sized truck brakes.

-Joe
__________________
The Marines...When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight.

Trust and Respect take years to earn, but can be lost in a moment.

Life's too short to hold a grudge. -Joe
Purcell69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2013, 09:41 PM   #39
Purcell69 OP
Mors ex Tenebris
 
Purcell69's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,693
I did not get a lot done today. I did make the trip to Ace Hardware for my nuts, bolts and washers, and then started drilling out the remaining rivets. Before I started drilling though, I put bolts through the rivet holes where I had removed the crossmember yesterday. Without the subframe being supported yet, I didn't want to have the rivets loaded as I drilled them out.





I did get teh four on the left side completely drilled and knocked out. My 1/4" bit that I had been using to drill the pilot holes was getting a bit dull already, so I went for another one and decided to duck in to one of the local (somewhat) parts stores to get some Chassis Saver paint in anticipation of what is yet to come. The parts house that I went to was supposed to be a Magnet Paints dealer, howver, they are no longer carrying that product line. They did have something else I was familiar with though.



This stuff is a bit pricey, but very tough. I used it on the '57 frame when I added in the Camaro front clip. I never did put a top coat on it and under the truck, UV has not been an issue, (this stuff will chalk up over time if not top coated with UV stable paint). It is tough as nails, probably harder than powder coating when done right. Just don't get any on you or spill it, and be sure not to have any left in the lip of the can when you reseal it.



The old man, guarding his spot in the shade on a hot summer day.

-Joe
__________________
The Marines...When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight.

Trust and Respect take years to earn, but can be lost in a moment.

Life's too short to hold a grudge. -Joe
Purcell69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 01:01 AM   #40
wavygravy87
Gnarly Adventurer
 
wavygravy87's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Abalabama
Oddometer: 141
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
Very nicely done! I know he has more to do, but what a great start. Back when they first started putting the Cummins into the Dodge trucks, there were issues with the 4wd chassis. As I recall, I believe it had something to do with cracks around the front leaf springs and possibly the steering box. That Cummins motor is HEAVY. That was part of the reason for the coil spring, solid axle, box tube frame chassis that came out in 1994. The 12 valve motors are hard to beat for simplicity and economy though. Just out of curiosity, what brake booster is he running in the bottom pic? I used a Ford T-bird set-up when I went to power brakes, but I don't think it will be enough for the full sized truck brakes.

-Joe
Haha we figured up a good guess on the weight of that motor, and it was a couple hundred pounds shy of what my baja bug weighs with me in it! No wonder they had issues, right? Far as the brake booster, I'm not sure but I will certainly find out for you asap

If you wanna check it out, he's got a build thread here that may help you out.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=536540
__________________
You'll never make it out of this life alive anyway, so try and make it a wild ride.

2009 Suzuki DR650
2008 Yamaha FZ6
wavygravy87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 07:29 AM   #41
Purcell69 OP
Mors ex Tenebris
 
Purcell69's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by wavygravy87 View Post
Haha we figured up a good guess on the weight of that motor, and it was a couple hundred pounds shy of what my baja bug weighs with me in it! No wonder they had issues, right? Far as the brake booster, I'm not sure but I will certainly find out for you asap

If you wanna check it out, he's got a build thread here that may help you out.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=536540
Excellent, thank you for the link. The Cummins 4BT wouldn't be a bad choice for a smaller diesel engine, but it is still a heavy, industrial engine. It is basically the same motor as your friend's 12V motor, minus 2 cylinders. The though honestly had crossed my mind, and it can be easily mated to a Chevy TH400 transmission, but I really didn't want to go that route. There are a few being run in Jeep Cherokees that I've seen on YouTube.

-Joe
__________________
The Marines...When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight.

Trust and Respect take years to earn, but can be lost in a moment.

Life's too short to hold a grudge. -Joe
Purcell69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 02:46 PM   #42
wavygravy87
Gnarly Adventurer
 
wavygravy87's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Abalabama
Oddometer: 141
Brake Booster

Hey I got the info on the brake setup for you. He used the stock dodge booster and master cylinder, and grafted the dodge top swing pedals into the Chevy cab.
__________________
You'll never make it out of this life alive anyway, so try and make it a wild ride.

2009 Suzuki DR650
2008 Yamaha FZ6
wavygravy87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 02:58 PM   #43
crazydrummerdude
Wacky Bongo Boy
 
crazydrummerdude's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: St Louis, MO
Oddometer: 7,571
Interesting project.

If you need a hand, let me know.

I need friends.
__________________

crazydrummerdude is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2013, 04:57 PM   #44
cjbiker
Nobody's Robot
 
cjbiker's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Location: Southern Maine
Oddometer: 2,502
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purcell69 View Post
The 5.9L (360) is a notorious gas guzzler. 12 MPG seems to be the norm, with well tuned, frugal driving netting around 16+ MPG. The 318 (5.2L) seems to be a bit better with peak MPG coming in at 18-19 MPG, all else being equal.
I had a '96 Dodge half ton 4x4 with the 5.2L and an automatic. It routinely got 12mpg, or 13mpg if I really babied it

From my reading, the 5.9L got about the same mileage but it could actually get out of its own way
cjbiker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2013, 08:26 AM   #45
Purcell69 OP
Mors ex Tenebris
 
Purcell69's Avatar
 
Joined: May 2009
Location: Moving forward...at the speed of rust in mid-OK
Oddometer: 3,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by wavygravy87 View Post
Hey I got the info on the brake setup for you. He used the stock dodge booster and master cylinder, and grafted the dodge top swing pedals into the Chevy cab.
Ok. Thanks. My Dodge still has all the brake components, so I will pull them before the cab goes to salvage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
Interesting project.

If you need a hand, let me know.

I need friends.
I will keep you in mind when it comes time to move the Chevy bed and cab to the Dodge frame. . I'm normally working on this in the mornings from about 7:30-1100 or so if you want to come down sometime and hang out for a while. The shade is pretty good that time of day where the work is being done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cjbiker View Post
I had a '96 Dodge half ton 4x4 with the 5.2L and an automatic. It routinely got 12mpg, or 13mpg if I really babied it

From my reading, the 5.9L got about the same mileage but it could actually get out of its own way
I will keep that in mind. A lot of the gripes about poor fuel economy with these trucks goes back to a leaking plenum gasket under the intake manifold, the need to replace the spark plugs (champion copper, specifically) every 30k miles, a need for free-flowing exhaust, gear ratio and driving style. As I recall, there was only about 20hp difference between the two engines up to 1997. Then the 5.9 took an additional 20hp jump, but I don't know what the cause was. These motors are older tech with low compression, iron heads and cast exhaust manifolds, so there is only so much to be expected.

I think my biggest gains will be from aftermarket exhaust, from the heads back, and ditching the belt driven fan for an electric one. I'm pretty certain I have 3.55 axles, so highway cruising should be reasonable. Going to a lower RPM / higher torque camshaft will also help. This isn't going to be a hybrid and I'm not expecting miracles. I am just trying to maximize what I have to work with.

-Joe
__________________
The Marines...When it absolutely, positively has to be destroyed overnight.

Trust and Respect take years to earn, but can be lost in a moment.

Life's too short to hold a grudge. -Joe
Purcell69 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 02:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014