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Old 07-01-2013, 10:58 PM   #16
Night Falcon
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After having to replace both levers I fitted a set BB's - paid for themselves already. Once I get to expert level in about 40yrs I might think about removing them but in the meantime they are essential noob equipment

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Old 07-01-2013, 11:12 PM   #17
jonnyc21
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My input...

The ones I run are just the aluminum bar for a set of guards without the large deflector, used mostly to keep me from braking levers and crushing fingers... and as I am drop my bike plenty trying to learn new and more advanced stuff I figure its a good idea at least for me... When I feel like I am not dropping the bike as much when I try the more aggressive stuff I will likely take them off.

I have a set of the same on my daughters bike as well, likely never to come off the Beta Rev 80. When she gets to the point she doesn't need them any more I hope to be upgrading her to a new bike, (125, 200?) we will see.

Wife wants a set to save levers and hands tell she gets better as well.

Just our 2 cents... I will say that the extra 1/2" or so on the end of the bars is something I will not miss in competition once I feel its time to take them off.
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:10 AM   #18
lamotovita
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If preventing broken/bent levers is the goal, you can make sure your lever clamps rotate easily (teflon tape under the clamp helps). With this setup you can do a substantial amount of crashing without damaging levers. Trust me I know.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:01 AM   #19
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Or buy folding levers.

The issue with perch movement is getting them back to the original position. A trick I use is a witness mark on the bar and the clamp. Enables you to rotate the levers back to the original position quickly.

As for broken wrists...I think the security factor for a new rider out weighs the risk of a broken wrist. It's not like we're running thru the woods on an enduro with no time to react to an off.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:16 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarheel Wheeler View Post
As for broken wrists...I think the security factor for a new rider out weighs the risk of a broken wrist. It's not like we're running thru the woods on an enduro with no time to react to an off.
Then you shouldn't need bark busters!!

+2 for the broken wrists. Ouch.
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Old 07-02-2013, 09:48 AM   #21
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Then you shouldn't need bark busters!!

+2 for the broken wrists. Ouch.
I use them for the broken lever issue. Doesn't matter how much your clamps move if you come down directly on the end of a lever they will break.

I also like to slide my hand out to the edge of the grip and rest them against the area of the handguard that bends back to the end of the bars for leverage. It's definitely an advantage when it comes to lifting the front end for splatters and jap zaps.

BLUF...What ever works for you is what you should go with.
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Tarheel Wheeler screwed with this post 07-02-2013 at 11:44 AM
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Old 07-02-2013, 11:04 AM   #22
Bent_boot42
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+1 broken wrists.

I have had MANY falls on my trials bikes over 3 yrs of riding at least 3x a month (12 months a yr) and never broken a lever. I do not use bark busters.
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:14 PM   #23
broncobowsher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bent_boot42 View Post
+1 broken wrists.

I have had MANY falls on my trials bikes over 3 yrs of riding at least 3x a month (12 months a yr) and never broken a lever. I do not use bark busters.
Come drop your bike a few times here in AZ. A hit on the end will take out a lever in no time. It isn't soft gooey ground down here.

If I was so worried about width, I can always trim a little of the ends of the bars to narrow them. It is an option that I have not gotten to the point of needing. IF I ever get width limited, I will have the option to fix it.

The way I crash and hit stuff, bark busters so save digits are a benifit over a wrist injury. I tend to run into stuff way more then I go flying over the bars.
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Old 07-02-2013, 12:38 PM   #24
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I agree that if your riding in a way that has risk of braking a wrist that the busters might not be the best option, however I echo Tarheel Wheelers "What ever works for you is what you should go with"

And I echo broncobowsher as well. "I tend to run into stuff way more then I go flying over the bars"... so for now mine will stay.

FYI: the only people I know or have heard of braking wrists with busters where on the enduros riding fast and hard. All of the trials riders I know running them have never had anything even close happen to them. (not that it hasn't happened to a trials rider, I just haven't met one)
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Old 07-02-2013, 01:01 PM   #25
laser17
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I say whatever helps your mental status is what you need to do. Like using a Full Face helmet. If you like it - then its all good IMO. I can see using busters if you bush wack all the time. Otherwise, I dont like the added bulk myself. I would LOVE a well ventilated, lightweight, low slung chin bar on a trials helmet though. Might as well make it affordable while im at it since no ones going to make it anyway....
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:18 PM   #26
Gordy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bent_boot42 View Post

I have had MANY falls on my trials bikes over 3 yrs of riding at least 3x a month (12 months a yr) and never broken a lever. I do not use bark busters.
Same here. If crashing breaks levers, it's not for lack trying on my part!

I just don't pinch the clamps down too tight, keep them mounted far to the inside and it's working so far.

I do know that I have picked up some points here and there from a tree branch grabbing a lever and messing me up, but I would just rather ride without them for some reason. YRMV

I woudn't dream of riding my dirt bikes without them because of the speeds that we impact stuff with. Completely differnent deal.
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Old 07-02-2013, 02:22 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Falcon View Post
After having to replace both levers I fitted a set BB's - paid for themselves already. Once I get to expert level in about 40yrs I might think about removing them but in the meantime they are essential noob equipment

Don't look, but you may have a rear fender deal going on.
........and maybe turn your levers up a little closer to "flat" and try that out for a day and see if you like it better.
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Old 07-02-2013, 06:42 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordy View Post
Same here. If crashing breaks levers, it's not for lack trying on my part!

I just don't pinch the clamps down too tight, keep them mounted far to the inside and it's working so far.

I do know that I have picked up some points here and there from a tree branch grabbing a lever and messing me up, but I would just rather ride without them for some reason. YRMV

I woudn't dream of riding my dirt bikes without them because of the speeds that we impact stuff with. Completely differnent deal.
+1 I have never broke a lever. Crash a lot. Been ejected from the bike when a tree limb decided to apply the front brake. No big deal.

Just don't think a trials bike looks right with them.

I do worry about the pinned throttle on a crash now that I have a new bike.
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:05 PM   #29
jonnyc21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrKayak View Post
...

I do worry about the pinned throttle on a crash now that I have a new bike.
When I pull my guards I am going to make sure I have one of these to help with the pinned throttle...

Leonelli Magnetic Kill Switch
http://www.tryalsshop.com/#!/~/product/id=18797032
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Old 07-02-2013, 08:17 PM   #30
DrKayak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyc21 View Post
When I pull my guards I am going to make sure I have one of these to help with the pinned throttle...

Leonelli Magnetic Kill Switch
http://www.tryalsshop.com/#!/~/product/id=18797032
That's a lost less $$ than the Beta kill switch. Looks like the same exact switch. I was going to get one for my Evo but the local trials shop talked me out of it. Said they did not like them.

I had 2 bad pinned throttle crash on my Techno. One resulted in a broken fender from the bike going round on it's side. The second I was shocked it did not blow the engine.
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