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Old 07-06-2013, 12:50 PM   #16
Triam OP
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Originally Posted by joexr View Post
It tells you the pump is pumping and nothing more.
I mean that if it says that it's pumping then the switch is getting oil which means I'm more likely to find my problem somewhere between the switch and the cams.
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:54 PM   #17
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Before you get any farther I'd find some local expertise. You may be barking up the wrong tree about an oiling problem . The cam lobes look good.
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:57 PM   #18
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When I took it apart it had been running just an hour before, and the cams were bone dry. Doesn't that sound like a lubrication problem to you?
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:01 PM   #19
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The other thing I may have failed to mention is that with the cover off we turned the engine over, and still there was no oil on the cams.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:08 PM   #20
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It'll take several seconds running at idle to get circulation. The cams look good. Whay do the tops of the buckets look like?
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:09 PM   #21
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It'll take several seconds running at idle to get circulation. The cams look good. Whay do the tops of the buckets look like?
Do you mean the shims or the buckets themselves?
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:12 PM   #22
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Where the cam lobes contact.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:16 PM   #23
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Where the cam lobes contact.


They looked a bit worn, but I measured them all with micrometers to verify that they were the thickness they claimed to be and they weren't worn down more than .01 or .02 MM
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:22 PM   #24
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I'd put the cams back in and start it with the cam cover off to see if you get oil to the top , for a start. If so then check your valve clearances. The valves usually get tight , more so when hot.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:23 PM   #25
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I'd put the cams back in and start it with the cam cover off to see if you get oil to the top , for a start. If so then check your valve clearances.
K. I'll do that next. I should warn you that it may take a week or two for me to find time again to work on it.
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Old 07-06-2013, 01:25 PM   #26
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You don't want to be in a hurry anyway. Take your time.
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:21 PM   #27
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The flow switch (measures flow, not pressure) housing you have is an aftermarket one that diverts the oil flow to an oil cooler, obviously some one decided to remover the cooler. If you are going to use that housing you need to remove the plugs and connect the two openings somehow, so the oil can get through. It has been a long time since I attended the U.S. Suzuki technician training, or had access to a GS service manual, but if memory serves, all the oil for the cams and valve gear comes through that switch housing, so if the plugs are plugged, there is your major malfunction!

You should be able to see oil flow if you crank it with that housing removed. I would get a couple of hose barbs and a short bit of hose, a couple of clamps, and give it a shot. I bet it will lube the cams fine.
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Old 07-07-2013, 02:30 PM   #28
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Been awhile since I had my GS1000 apart, but from memory Andyinhilo's comments are spot on. That aftermarket housing diverts the oil out, through a cooler, and back into the oiling system. Pretty sure if the outlet and inlet are blocked off your oil coming from the pump stops right there and never makes it up to the head. I'm surprised the cams look as good as they do.

I'd either connect up an oil cooler (not a bad idea if your running these bikes hard on hot days) or put a stock cover back on there.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Andyinhilo View Post
The flow switch (measures flow, not pressure) housing you have is an aftermarket one that diverts the oil flow to an oil cooler, obviously some one decided to remover the cooler. If you are going to use that housing you need to remove the plugs and connect the two openings somehow, so the oil can get through. It has been a long time since I attended the U.S. Suzuki technician training, or had access to a GS service manual, but if memory serves, all the oil for the cams and valve gear comes through that switch housing, so if the plugs are plugged, there is your major malfunction!

You should be able to see oil flow if you crank it with that housing removed. I would get a couple of hose barbs and a short bit of hose, a couple of clamps, and give it a shot. I bet it will lube the cams fine.
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:01 PM   #29
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Is that moly engine assembly grease on the cam bearing surfaces? What do they look like, smooth, polished, any scoring? If it's been run without oil to the top end I'd expect you would see the first damage there, as those are plain bearings and cannot survive long without oil.

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They looked a bit worn, but I measured them all with micrometers to verify that they were the thickness they claimed to be and they weren't worn down more than .01 or .02 MM
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:08 AM   #30
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Is that moly engine assembly grease on the cam bearing surfaces? What do they look like, smooth, polished, any scoring? If it's been run without oil to the top end I'd expect you would see the first damage there, as those are plain bearings and cannot survive long without oil.




It's not as bad as it looks, especially the bearings. They look rough, but I'd guess if you were to measure it that you'd find that the finish is about a 30. The cam shaft itself feels newly ground.
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