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Old 07-05-2013, 04:42 AM   #1
conlysm OP
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08' Hypermotard 1100S Not Charging Properly

I have an 08' HM1100S (Hypermotard) that is not charging properly.

Before replacing any parts I was charging at 13.4V

I replaced the stator with an aftermarket one but that did not change the charging voltage (still at 13.4V)

I replaced the rectifier or voltage regulator and now I am at 13.9-14.0V

If I check the output right at the rectifier I get 14.3V

I have checked the ground and I do not suspect the battery to be the problem, initially I was thinking I have a weak or dieing cell in the battery. I tried a new battery (which was temporary because it was going into a friends bike). This was the first thing I tried before replacing any other parts and there was no change in voltage.

I do work on bikes for friends occasionally so I am a pretty competent mechanic but this problem has me stumped.

Anyone ever run into / come across this?

Thanks in advance.

FYI the bike was purchased new, still has original Yuasa battery, bike is pretty much bone stock aside of a speedo-healer, FatDuc O2 Eliminator and an aftermarket airbox lid."
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Old 07-05-2013, 04:53 AM   #2
KeithinSC
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Are you sure the battery is still good? Have it load tested or swap it for a known good one. 5-6 yrs for a bike battery, you are on borrowed time.

Unhook the battery, check the voltage. Leave it unhooked for a day or so and check again.

Or, do you have any parasitic load on the bike? With everything off, check for current draw. Hook a test light in line with the (+) lead of the battery. It should not light up if everything is off.

Good luck exorcising the gremlins
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:59 AM   #3
CycleDoc59
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You say the regulator is putting out 14.4v.
Then the wire from the regulator to the battery,
(usually goes to the starter relay) is too small.

I have found this problem of a couple of bikes; the
original factory wire is too small, resulting in a voltage drop.

Confirm this by connecting a temporary jumper. Then run a small
additional wire from the regulator output to the starter relay,
or directly to the battery.
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:43 PM   #4
conlysm OP
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The first thing I did was try a new battery, I was working on a friends bike who needed a new battery so I ordered it, filled it, charged it and tried it in my bike first to trouble shoot, problem still existed with no changes (this is with oem rectifier and stator). I load tested the new battery and compared it to my used battery and they are more or less the same. I know my battery is used but I have no reason to believe that this is the cause of the problem.

I have had no luck posting this question elsewhere or emailing people I know for help, you are my only hope Obiwan :-)

I will do some more tests tomorrow and post up findings. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 07-05-2013, 01:40 PM   #5
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Quote:
If I check the output right at the rectifier I get 14.3V
on the output side?

if so then you're good. check the connectors and wiring to battery.
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:06 PM   #6
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I have checked all connections and there is no resistance.
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:09 PM   #7
CycleDoc59
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Again, if the battery voltage does not match
the rectifier output, either there is a poor connection
between the two, or the connecting wire is too small....

The problem has nothing to do with battery condition.
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CycleDoc59 View Post
Again, if the battery voltage does not match
the rectifier output, either there is a poor connection
between the two, or the connecting wire is too small....

The problem has nothing to do with battery condition.
will check on that tomorrow in the day light and report back :-)
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Old 07-05-2013, 06:16 PM   #9
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try reading the voltage across the feed wire (between the regulator & battery). a small resistance is hard for a meter to read accurately, but a voltage reading is very accurate.... thats because resistance in the meter leads is a significant factor on a low ohm scale. on a voltage scale a few ohms in the leads isn't even enough to be a rounding error for the meter (2 ohms added to 10 Meg = 10 Meg)

anyway.... you are losing a few 10ths of a volt somewhere. read the drop across the wire, it should be zero. any voltage reading is a sign of resistance somewhere. could be a connector, could be the wire
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:27 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CycleDoc59 View Post
You say the regulator is putting out 14.4v.
Then the wire from the regulator to the battery,
(usually goes to the starter relay) is too small.

I have found this problem of a couple of bikes; the
original factory wire is too small, resulting in a voltage drop.

Confirm this by connecting a temporary jumper. Then run a small
additional wire from the regulator output to the starter relay,
or directly to the battery.
I have been fiddling with it for a while now (freaking hot out today) anyway, out of fear of damaging parts I do not want to hook up a jumper as I am not sure where to put it (electrical diagnosis was never my strong suit) there are 4 wires coming out of the rectifier 2 green 2 red and I don't know which one to jump, do I do it while it's connected, disconnected etc. I have checked the wires from connector to connector though and there is 0 resistance but I do understand that it means nothing in terms of transferring power.

Little more help or explanation please?
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:31 PM   #11
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These are my findings so far

08 Ducati Hypermotard 1100S w/ 10224 miles
Original Battery, always garaged.

.01V parasitic load on bike *note anti-theft device

12.76V base @ 86 Degrees F

Bike idling @1250-1300RPM while cold reads 14.0V Multimeter on battery reads 14.13V

Direct from stator @ idle each leg reads between 5.71V-6.15V (constantly fluctuating)

Direct from rectifier @ connector @ idle reads 14.22V w ground @ battery and engine and reads 14.40V w/ ground at rectifier connector

Testing from rectifier to starter solenoid 14.10V @ idle

Mind you all this is changing as the bike warms up, I would like to add that as soon as the bike starts it takes approximately 1 minutes to go from base charge up to it’s max whether it be 13 and change V to 14.10V

Getting approx 16VAC at each leg of stator @ 2K rpm
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conlysm screwed with this post 07-06-2013 at 02:40 PM
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Old 07-06-2013, 05:49 PM   #12
CycleDoc59
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Earlier you said you were seeing 13.4 at the
battery, but 14.4 directly off the rectifier, which
is not good - indication of a poor connection on either
side (+ or-), or inadequate wire sizing...

Now you say you have 14.1 at the battery. That
is a good number, not perfect, but quite adequate
for good charging. Whatever you did, you are done...

Well, except regarding your numbers for the stator,
where your decimal is one place out. Your stator
is putting out 57-61 volts ac, which is peachy keen.
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CycleDoc59 View Post
Earlier you said you were seeing 13.4 at the
battery, but 14.4 directly off the rectifier, which
is not good - indication of a poor connection on either
side (+ or-), or inadequate wire sizing...

Now you say you have 14.1 at the battery. That
is a good number, not perfect, but quite adequate
for good charging. Whatever you did, you are done...

Well, except regarding your numbers for the stator,
where your decimal is one place out. Your stator
is putting out 57-61 volts ac, which is peachy keen.
I would agree with you but to be honest my 14.1 number is not consistent. I took the bike to work the other day which is mostly highway, 20 minute commute and when I got to work I checked and it was back down to mid 13's (don't recall the exact number)

my issue is I want the bike to be the way it was last year, 14.4 consistently right now when I rev it the voltage drops, doesn't leave a good feeling in my stomach in regards to taking long, away from home trips if ya know what I mean.
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Old 07-06-2013, 07:45 PM   #14
CycleDoc59
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Well, any plug between the stator and battery is
cause for concern. Last year alone I found 4 that "leaked",
overheated, either causing failure by burning out themselves,
and/or causing the stator and/or rectifier to fail.

Last week I replaced a failed rectifier in a GSXR 600 that
had failed because the stator plug fried. At the moment
there's a Yam R6 on the lift waiting for a new rectifier
for the same reason... While the plug is failing, the leakage
can reduce output to the battery.

So, any plug is suspect in the charging system. Assuming
all connections are good ones (tight does not mean "good"),
it could be that pesky plug is leaking a bit. If so, an
infrared thermometer will find out. Best to cut them out,
solder all connections, which is what I do.
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Old 07-07-2013, 03:31 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CycleDoc59 View Post

So, any plug is suspect in the charging system. Assuming
all connections are good ones (tight does not mean "good"),
it could be that pesky plug is leaking a bit. If so, an
infrared thermometer will find out. Best to cut them out,
solder all connections, which is what I do.
while I don't disagree both parts and plugs are brand new and have a generous amount of dielectric grease applied, the bike new charged just fine. I honestly think that the rotor has lost some of it's magnetic charge.
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