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Old 03-02-2014, 10:32 PM   #76
bob66 OP
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Hi Christian

We had no problem with the border zone. We did apply to tuvan FSB via email, but unfortunately we did it to the wrong address (the email address was taken from FSB site). We were somehow lucky, because we insisted with the telephone - after a few weeks of making phone calls there we found out that we emailed the wrong address. Here is the long story: post 20#:

Anyway, I don't know if at the border post before Mugur Aksy there was someone, but in Mugur Aksy a Russian officer took our papers for control.

I'm ready with the photo selection for the next entry here (the pictures from Mugur Aksy to Kosh Agash). I still have to get some photos from the movies we did with the GoPro's...

Cristian / Bob
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:27 AM   #77
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Deep into Tuva Republic

Day 11, Wednesday, 24 July 2013

It’s almost 16:00. We leave Mugur Aksy hungry like hell. Shortly after we passed the village we stop by the river to have lunch. It rains, but it doesn’t matter as our stomach took control of our body.

We open a few cans to satisfy our hunger. Until we finish eating, the rain stops. The sun is coming out of the clouds. The wedding convoy is passing by. They salute us.

We leave further. The wedding convoy is there at a monument taking pictures. Gigi propose us to go to them. The other three of us don’t want, but now, as I’m thinking I feel a little sorry for this. I think it would have been fun.

We arrive at a swampy area, but we find a way to get over it.

One can see the UNESCO mountain, Mongun Taiga, the 3970 m peak.

We ride up to the pass

I think we exaggerated a little with our luggage

We arrive up to the pass. From here we go down a little and after that we go up to a higher one. We pass today many passes above 2000 m, the highest being almost 2600 m. There is nobody out there. It is a very strange feeling.

We arrive near the Mongolia border. One can see the fence. In front of us, there is Mongolia.

Near the bridge, there is a border post, but it is empty. Behind the clouds, where it’s raining, there is Mongun Taiga

Around 19:00 o’clock we think about camping for the night. Around us the camping conditions are not the best, so we think of returning near the river, where we have seen some yurts. In the picture bellow you can see 2 rocks somewhere far away, on either side of the river, and at each rock there is a yurt. We go to the left one.

We go to the yurt to ask if we can put the tent near them. Unfortunately the parents aren’t there and we talk to the kids. They show us towards the river. Although there is cold outside, they are barefoot.

Behind there is Mongun Taiga

We talk to each other. The guys tell to go to the river, I tell that is better to stay in the visibility of the yurt. Eventually we camp near the river. We cannot see the yurt from here.

The landscape is beautiful. Of course that one can see the famous peak I told you many times until now.

Andrei and Gigi wash a tshirt. Even if Andrei is summer time dressed, I tell you that is cold outside.

On the other side of the river, there is another yurt.

We have enough time until it’s getting dark. So I climb a little near our tents. This is the yurt with the kids. They have something to do there and the parents are gone for the sheeps.

Up on the valley there are another few yurts.

We are chill. I begin to prepare some food for dinner. I make myself comfortable in the folding chair I carried from far away. As I was sitting quietly, there appear some Tuva locals, a few of them drunk.

They park the van near us and they begin to feel at home. They photograph themselves on our bikes, they drink from our beer. We let them in peace and we hope to get rid of them.

They keep asking us if we have some vodka. We knew from advrider about Tuva locals. They are the most unfriendly people met up till now. The most of them are drunk. It is better to avoid them and if they come to you with vodka is better not to drink with them.

The gopro is recording. After 10-20 minutes they realize they don’t like the camera and they say to us to move it. We move it a few feet away but pointed towards them. Another minutes have to pass by for them to realize that we are still recording.

After one hour and a half they go away. It is dark now. We go into our tents to eat something.

Around 1:30 AM I wake up hearing some loud noises. There is raining outside and I see thunderstorm lights. I realize that there are some people there, screaming at us. My tent is with the door towards our bikes, I take a look outside and I see one of them sitting down on my bike and the other one making pictures with flash. They came by horse. Gigi goes outside and says “Ne panimayu” and he goes back in. I stay on my knees until they go away. I think they stood there half an hour. After they leave… how can I sleep anymore?

Cristian / Bob
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Old 03-12-2014, 04:54 PM   #78
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Great reading and photos . Thank You!!!!
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:50 PM   #79
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Great stories and pics. Keep it coming
My favorite philosopher is Cha Ching !
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Old 03-13-2014, 01:46 AM   #80
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How to break a clutch on the 990

Day 12, Thursday, 25 July 2013

When out of the tent in the morning there appears one of the children’s parents from the yurt. He is very peaceful. He asks for our empty plastic bottles. I give to him some crayons and a notebook for his children (before leaving Romania I bought some little stuff for kids). If we had met this man the day before I think we wouldn’t have that unpleasant meeting with the drunk people.
We pack the tents in a hurry because the rain is coming, but we are lucky; as it comes it goes away.

Even when we get into the main road there is a beautiful rainbow.

View towards Mongolia

We pass another passes towards Kyzyl Khaya.
There are some funny road signs

We are getting close to Kyzyl Khaya

We ride following the gps track from OSM, but the road finishes into a big a river. We go back to the village to ask the people. The first asked locals show us towards the valley along the river. Ok, ok, but where can we pass the river? We walk a while there in the village and we find an official bureau of “something”. We ask there. They have a map on the wall. They tell us that we must go along the river because there are bridges. We find out that there is a bridge right near the village.

We go out from the village confident. We find the bridge. We pass it, and right after it we arrive at a river cross. It is not difficult. We ride another half an hour until we arrive to another bridge. The sun is back on the sky and it’s hot now. We make a break to have lunch. The clouds come again. We don’t know yet what to expect from this afternoon and we are relaxed.

We ride on and on. We arrive at the first seriously river cross. Because of the last days rain, the waters are pretty high and a part of the road is flooded.

We pass successfully and we continue our ride through wilderness.

We arrive in a place where the road is ending in the river. We search up and down the river a place to cross. The river is very powerful. We try to cross it walking but in a moment of absence of mind Bogdan is taken down and he’s having a little bath.

We wonder around here about an hour and ask ourselves what to do. We see a track up on the hill but we don’t try it because the people said to us to keep along the river. We almost decide to go back to Mugur Aksy and try via the swamp when we see a car passing by. We were a little far so we couldn’t stop it. In a few minutes we see the car up on the hill on that track. Gigi says to try it. We have nothing to lose. We are lucky, this is the track. It takes us a little further on the riverside.
We pass another little river, and after this, only bridges.

We go out from the valley. We enter “open space”. I feel better already; I feel that we have done the hard part for today. So when I meet some mud I fall down. Bogdan comes to help me to raise the bike. He put his bike on the stand, but there is very wet land. So in less than one minute his bike is down.

I think this is the only car we have seen today.

We have a little break. We propose to ourselves to go to the lake Khindiktig-Khol to take some pictures and then go to Kosh Agash (at least this was the plan). From our track it would be less than 6 km.

We arrive at the famous Tuva bridge (in fact I’m not sure if this is the bridge, the next day we see another bridge at a few miles away - maybe Walter will tell us which is the bridge in his pictures).

After 10-15 minutes from the fall, Bogdan’s bike stops running. We try to start it but nothing happens. I tow him around, but still nothing. We check the sparks, they are good. Benzin “iest”. We call our mechanic in Romania. We find out that because of the falling down the fuel pump may have a connection problem. Right near the fuel pump there is a little pannier bound on the crash bar. And the bike fell exactly on it. So we have to take a look at the fuel pump.

It is late now. We have to get out the tank. We are in the middle of the track. Up on the hill nearby there is a sheepfold with nobody there. Somebody have the “1 million dollar idea” to go up on the hill and install the camp there and work on the bike. We will see very soon why this idea was so bad. The slope is not easy. I tow Bogdan again and try to climb the slope. I climb a little and I fall down. I try to start but I cannot move. Bogdan’s bike is too heavy. I change sits with Andrei (because Andrei was on Bogdan’s bike). Andrei takes my bike, I take Bogdan’s. Andrei slips the cluch very hard. After a few seconds I hear very hard noises from my clutch and the bike is not moving anymore. I don’t realize the seriousness of the problem yet. We begin pushing the bikes up on the hill. We have to push two heavy bikes. We work hard on this all four of us. I don’t have pictures from this action because I was very pissed off.

We put the tents. The sky is covered with clouds but at least there is no rain. Suddenly there appears a car with locals. They ask us what we are doing there and when we leave. We tell them we have problem with the bikes and we leave the next day. After a few minutes they go away. The driver is the owner of this place, but we don’t know yet.

Bogdan begins to work on his bike. He takes the fuel pump out, he puts it back in. The bike starts.

Day 13, Friday, 26 July 2013

In the morning I begin working on my bike. I open the clutch cover. When I see what’s inside I cannot believe my eyes… The disks are broken and the clutch hub has its tooth broken too.

Wtf ! what to do next…???

The locals from yesterday appear. With them there is a guy on a Russian bike and many sheep. They put the sheep into the fold to count them. They let the sheep go out one by one through the very little opened door. Two of them begin to count. While they were counting, Gigi asks one of them to move away a little because he wants to take some pictures. After they finish the counting they begin once again.

We have with us a Canon Selphy printer. We tell them to take a group picture. We put the camera on a tripod. The oldest man in the following picture is 42 and he’s the owner of the lands here (he is behind Bogdan; Bogdan is in green fleece).

After we give them a few prints they are very excited and some of them want photos on our bikes. The owner’s daughter is 10 and her name is Belchit Maa.

Our mini photo lab

I ask the owner if he knows somebody who could take my bike to Kosh Agash. He points to his car. But his car is a 4x4 UAZ, very little. I cannot see any possibility to put my biiiig bike in his car.
I tell my friends that I stay here at the sheepfold overnight and they should go to Kosh Agash and return with help (Kosh Agash is 100 km away over mountains). The owner tells me not to stay here because there is nobody here in the night. He tells me to come to their yurt and stay with them overnight. Bogdan tows me to his yurt and after this, they go to Kosh Agash.

Cristian / Bob
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Old 03-13-2014, 02:52 AM   #81
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Just as it gets real interesting you stop writing

Let´s hear the rest of the story - Very nice read btw!
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:05 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by lowbudget View Post
Just as it gets real interesting you stop writing

Let´s hear the rest of the story - Very nice read btw!
Just give me one / two days for the next entry :)

Cristian / Bob
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Old 03-13-2014, 05:51 AM   #83
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Not nice. Waitng
"Do today what other's won't, so you can do tomorrow what other's can't." Jody Sears-West Point
“It is not enough to want to make the effort. It’s in the doing, not just the thinking, that we accomplish our goals."
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Old 03-13-2014, 08:33 AM   #84
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bob66, as long as it takes, just make it as good as this one!
And make it quick!

Lookes like you are running TKC80 or similar??

Can you comment on your thoughts about the tyres and which are they?

F-ing in Iceland and Faroe Islands, 2013.
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Detailed BMW X-Challenge build thread.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:18 PM   #85
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This is great, the pictures are stunning and the dialogue tells you all you need to know.
Waiting for the next instalment.
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Old 03-14-2014, 03:36 AM   #86
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Great report!
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Old 03-14-2014, 07:20 AM   #87
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Great report, amazing pics...hey, what happenned with the chick on the first page??
Cheers from Paraguay
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:34 AM   #88
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Great cliffhanger!! Can't wait till the next episode! This has all the ingredients for some of the best of what ADVenture riding is. This is absolutely fantastic.
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Old 03-16-2014, 10:47 AM   #89
de la Mobra la BMW
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Imi place !

De admirat si remarcat !

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Old 03-17-2014, 08:13 AM   #90
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Brilliant ride. Great pictures. And there's nothing like a bike breaking down in the middle of nowhere to spice up a RR, thank you KTM

2006-2007 Mongolia - Pamir - India - Nepal
2010-2012 Caucasus - Middle-East - Africa
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