ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Trials
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 07-29-2013, 06:47 PM   #16
motojunky
Professional Idiot
 
motojunky's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: North East, MD
Oddometer: 1,068
Quote:
Originally Posted by j__h View Post
What am I looking for on the clutch slave cylinder? I already have cleaned the carb, it was gummed up and not idling well, which now seems good.

Also, is there any validity to the tank on these bikes having issues with Ethanol gas and shedding a white slime that can clog the carb. Might have to looking into getting AvGas, no non ethanol reasonably priced gas is available.
Yes, keep ethanol away from your tank. I've used AVgas and a few different flavors of VP with success. I also have no source for cheap ethanol-free fuel (This is usually where someone posts a link to the websites that list ethanol free gas stations ). I also don't really have an easy source for AVgas and have settled on VP C9 for a while now. Fortunately, even when I ride a lot, I don't go through a lot of fuel.
motojunky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2013, 12:29 AM   #17
j__h OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Oddometer: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by motojunky View Post
Yes, keep ethanol away from your tank. I've used AVgas and a few different flavors of VP with success. I also have no source for cheap ethanol-free fuel (This is usually where someone posts a link to the websites that list ethanol free gas stations ). I also don't really have an easy source for AVgas and have settled on VP C9 for a while now. Fortunately, even when I ride a lot, I don't go through a lot of fuel.
I have not been able to find any local stations for reasonable priced gas(various websites), but I may have a way of getting some avgas. Do these different gas types require different jetting?

I am getting ready to fix the mid pipe and found this in the tank, Will be getting a fuel filter:





Here is the damage:



and culprit, Red points to corner and I am wondering if the piece of coolant pipe (yellow arrow) placed there is stock or if it maybe was put there in reaction to this issue, I think it may even make it worse by pushing the midpipe onto the corner:




So now the question is how much of that corner am I safe to take off without thinning the case, I would assume the entire block is superfluous material but I would rather get some verification first.
j__h is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2013, 01:27 AM   #18
Twin-shocker
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 1,673
Welding that pipe isnt an easy job, but if you can find a good TIG welder it should be possible. Rather than grinding material off the cases, simply get your welder to out an indent into the pipe, when he repairs the hole.
Twin-shocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2013, 03:49 AM   #19
cnybetass
Adventurer
 
Joined: May 2012
Location: upstate new york
Oddometer: 38
Never seen them wear like that mostly split at rear seam.Clean it good and a good welder can fix it.That rubber pc is factory installed.I think you could safely remove that spot on the cases just go slow.I always run race gas in my bikes and no jetting changes needed.

JR
cnybetass is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2013, 08:51 AM   #20
j__h OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Oddometer: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by cnybetass View Post
Never seen them wear like that mostly split at rear seam.Clean it good and a good welder can fix it.That rubber pc is factory installed.I think you could safely remove that spot on the cases just go slow.I always run race gas in my bikes and no jetting changes needed.

JR
I am a little confused at the moment, as I see mention of filing down that corner and tearing at the seam. I am now thinking these are separate issues. I should probably see about getting some reinforcement on a commonly cracked seam when fixing the puncture.

Is this the location of the seam that cracks?

j__h is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2013, 09:30 AM   #21
Twin-shocker
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 1,673
They crack due mainly to vibration. If you are careful to mount exhaust properly, and keep the mounting bolts tight I doubt you will have any problems. As to that hole, if it was my bike I would simply dent the damaged area in a little to provide more clearance, roughen and clean with acetone, then JB weld it. Its pretty difficult to TIG weld used exhausts nicely, as oil/crud tends to get drawn into the weld area, which makes a good job less than easy. For non stress repair, I think you would be much better off with JB weld.

Both exhaust boxes on the SY tend to get get blocked with unburnt oil relatively quickly, and its a good idea to find a good full synthetic oil and run this at 80:1, which will greatly reduce the speed at which the boxes get clogged. Later bikes had a modified middle box, which improved performance quite a bit, as the earlier one seemed quite restrictive. The UK Scorpa importer built his own bikes based on the TY Yam motor used in the Scorpa, and found that carefully designed and made intake and exhaust systems, meant performance that was quite a bit better than the production machines.
Twin-shocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2013, 11:13 AM   #22
j__h OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Oddometer: 13
Welding complete, could not get the inside fully oil free this made the job difficult but it seems to be good. It did not want to close the last bit and thus the blob. Hopefully it is all sealed.
j__h is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 08:39 AM   #23
Twin-shocker
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 1,673
Looks like a pinhole to me.................I would JB weld it to make sure you dont need to remove it again.
Twin-shocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 09:01 AM   #24
j__h OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Oddometer: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Looks like a pinhole to me.................I would JB weld it to make sure you dont need to remove it again.

I know what you are seeing, I inspected that before putting back on and it does appear sealed.

Although now the bike does not want to idle, with or without choke. Need to get back into the carb and also start using ethanol free fuel and a fuel filter.
j__h is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 10:33 AM   #25
Sting32
Trials Evangelist
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Location: Minneapolis, Ks
Oddometer: 1,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by j__h View Post
I know what you are seeing, I inspected that before putting back on and it does appear sealed.

Although now the bike does not want to idle, with or without choke. Need to get back into the carb and also start using ethanol free fuel and a fuel filter.
JH, the ethanol (AND THE CHEMICALS THEY USE TO KEEP THAT FROM SEPERATING WATER) eats away the fiberglass. at the VERY MINIMUM, suggestion is to fill it up to ride, without ethanol fuels, then empty tank after that last ride that day. ALso insert a good filter in line to the carb, keep extras for easy change.

some tried to coat tanks, varying results though, because of ethanol eating away at the fiberglass!

Good luck, I have 2 fiberglass tanked machines, but I no longer store the bike with ANY gas in the tanks! not even a DAY...

but I can get "ethanol free fuel" at a pump that sells only ethanol free unleaded... But the problem most PEOPLE that get gas trying to get non ehtanol fuel is they exist on the same pumps that pump the trash fuels... What i mean is, can have a 12 foot hose full of ethanol (that was pumped by previous customer). So if you have one hose but 3 selections on a pump, pump 5 gallons into the car, then fill you "mixing gas can" or buy race fuels, or buy Av gas, those are your choices...

Just fyi
Sting32 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-09-2013, 12:54 PM   #26
Twin-shocker
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 1,673
The Scorpa tank looks like nylon2 or hdpe to me..............its not fibreglass. TK carb seems to work well enough, but its a nightmare to take on and off, so strip, clean, and careful rebuild would be a good idea I guess.
Twin-shocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2013, 10:58 PM   #27
j__h OP
Adventurer
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Oddometer: 13
Update:

The weld is holding, absolutely no oil is coming out. I also opened up the carb and cleaned out some passageways most notably the pilot, whent on a 15 mile adventure and some easy obstacles to get a better feel of it so apparently the carb cleaning was successful, no idling issues. There is no ethanol free fuel from the pump around me, but I have found a few sources where I can get ethanol free race gas that I will probably be using going forward.

Unfortunately, it appears that I have developed the very common split in the weld at the far rear of the center box, so back to the welder for me. I suspect that this will be much easier than the puncture.
j__h is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-20-2014, 11:28 AM   #28
exman
amateur-enthusiast
 
exman's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Location: Belgrade, Serbia
Oddometer: 17
Pissed 2005 Scorpa SY250

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
They crack due mainly to vibration. If you are careful to mount exhaust properly, and keep the mounting bolts tight I doubt you will have any problems. As to that hole, if it was my bike I would simply dent the damaged area in a little to provide more clearance, roughen and clean with acetone, then JB weld it. Its pretty difficult to TIG weld used exhausts nicely, as oil/crud tends to get drawn into the weld area, which makes a good job less than easy. For non stress repair, I think you would be much better off with JB weld.

Both exhaust boxes on the SY tend to get get blocked with unburnt oil relatively quickly, and its a good idea to find a good full synthetic oil and run this at 80:1, which will greatly reduce the speed at which the boxes get clogged. Later bikes had a modified middle box, which improved performance quite a bit, as the earlier one seemed quite restrictive. The UK Scorpa importer built his own bikes based on the TY Yam motor used in the Scorpa, and found that carefully designed and made intake and exhaust systems, meant performance that was quite a bit better than the production machines.
Does anybody know the effective way to clean the exhaust boxes, mine is clogged too. I heard about pouring the gasoline in to dissolve the oil residue, but I wander what could happen once the hot exhaust gases pass trough again.
exman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2014, 07:39 AM   #29
motobene
Motoing for 43 years
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Location: Wichita Mountains SW Oklahoma
Oddometer: 836
Quote:
Originally Posted by exman View Post
Does anybody know the effective way to clean the exhaust boxes, mine is clogged too. I heard about pouring the gasoline in to dissolve the oil residue, but I wander what could happen once the hot exhaust gases pass trough again.
Here's how I do it. I burn out the oil. I use a small oxy acetylene torch with cutting tip. I start a fire in the muffler, then shut off the fuel (acetylene) and let the oxygen flow, sometimes hitting the oxygen lever for a directed boost. The trick is to get a flame front started, then carefully monitor the temperature as the front progresses deeper into the muffler. You don't want the inside to get so hot it melts the perforated metal stamping that overlies the oil soaked fiberglass, and it'd hard to see in there. It needs to be hot enough to carbonize the oil.

This method is effective, but it is a polluting mess that is skills sensitive and can take hours to do carefully and well. If you lack the skills and patience, don't do it.

A MAPP gas torch can do it too, but you really have to put the heat to it, and the torch will use up much of the available oxygen that otherwise would maintain the flame front.
motobene is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2014, 02:29 PM   #30
ericm
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains, California
Oddometer: 263
Is it safe to burn out an aluminium muffler box?

It did it on a TY250 mono pipe and it does make a very stinky mess.
ericm is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 09:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014