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Old 08-12-2013, 05:46 PM   #16
Monty348
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just weld it

Quote:
Originally Posted by motojunky View Post
Your caution about welding is valid, and something that is on my mind. That said, a highly respected member of the trials community here in the US (Tryals Shop) has stated that he's welded several rims successfully and recommended that option. He is a real person who's been making a living supporting trials for a long time. Selling me a new wheel would be in his best interest.
You haven't much to loose in welding it. According to your description it's not a brand new crack so could have been that way for months. Weld it and watch it for signs of failure. If the rim is on the path to failure it'll likely crack elsewhere rather than at the repair.
Another option would be a new Sherco. :-)
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:10 PM   #17
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Give us a report in 3 months if you would. I finally have access to a TIG, and would love to know how well it works.
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monty348 View Post
...Another option would be a new Sherco. :-)

Best post of thread....
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:46 AM   #19
Twin-shocker
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Morad rims commonly fail at the point where the 2 ends are joined together. They seem to be hardened, and I guess the main problem with a weld repair would be breakages in the softened HAZ adjacent to the weld?
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:32 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monty348 View Post
Another option would be a new Sherco. :-)
As it happens, I will be driving right by the RYP shop in the next week. I fired off an email to make sure Ryan is around so that I can stop by for a visit...
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Morad rims commonly fail at the point where the 2 ends are joined together. They seem to be hardened, and I guess the main problem with a weld repair would be breakages in the softened HAZ adjacent to the weld?
One of the several other cracks that I found is at the seam.
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Old 08-14-2013, 12:43 AM   #22
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If its cracked in several places, then I think it might be a good idea to get another rim.
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Old 08-20-2013, 10:19 AM   #23
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Sorry for the lack of replies - I was away on vacation.

I picked up the welded rim last night. I'd use it to get through a weekend in a pinch but I'd never be comfortable with it long-term. Fortunately, it was a freebie job from a friend. I placed the order for a new rim this morning.

I stopped by RYP while on vacation and was able to confirm that my 2002 Scorpa SY250 uses the same hub & spokes as the Sherco. There is a slight difference in the rim itself, but that appears to simply be evolution of design. I don't see any reason why the new Sherco rim Ryan had in stock would not have worked considering that the hub and spokes are the same.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:47 PM   #24
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Yeah, wheels between brands are almost identical.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:12 AM   #25
motobene
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The Morad rim problem is probably materials and process related, which is allowing cracks to nucleate (start). Keep an eye on them that they not go all the way across and....

Way unequal spoke tension not only un trues wheels, it can put more stress on rims as you roll on surfaces, growing the cracks faster. Thankfully we don't ride at high speed, so some weld repairs done well should be no big deal, especially is accompanied by a careful truing and spoke tightening.

If you do ride at high speed, maybe a new rim is more than justified.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:48 AM   #26
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Found out why I get intermittent flats.

Over the past year my back tire would go flat....sometimes once a ride and sometimes once every 4-5 rides. Drove me crazy. Figured it was the original 2001 tire that is old needs to be replaced. Got the tire off and when cleaning up the rim I found a crack. It goes all the way through. Going to try to get it welded up so I can ride it until I can get a replacement.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:27 PM   #27
lineaway
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I doubt that is your problem. You should check your psi when you unload your bike to ride and add/ subtract at that time. Rear goes flat all the time on those fake tubeless rims. ( A rim with 37 holes is not really tubeless)
Ps. I might have one.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:55 PM   #28
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I have to agree. That crack would be entirely covered by the bead, which is damn tight when properly set. I run a fair amount of slime, which means I only have to put air in for a ride, not in the middle. When my wheels were new it was better, not so much now....
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:08 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lineaway View Post
I doubt that is your problem. You should check your psi when you unload your bike to ride and add/ subtract at that time. Rear goes flat all the time on those fake tubeless rims. ( A rim with 37 holes is not really tubeless)
Ps. I might have one.
Well I need one and if you do happen to have an extra you would be willing to part with.....as Monthy Hall used to say...."Lets make a deal"

I think it only has 32 spokes.....I'll double check as it was late and in the middle of happy hour when I attempted to count.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:13 PM   #30
lineaway
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You have a 2002, beta switched in 2004 to 32. You can tell by the 6 bolt sprocket. I`ve got one with a bad hub, I will check the rim as it might not be any better.
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