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Old 08-22-2013, 01:11 PM   #16
slower_than_you
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Very cool project - Im looking forward to updates ! :
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:05 PM   #17
England-Kev
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Originally Posted by bpeckm View Post
Hey.... I like this guy's style..... and he writes good, too!!
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He writes WELL...
Funny, as I thought he wrote Well Good, innit!
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Old 08-22-2013, 03:40 PM   #18
HapHazard
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Can't...resist.....posting.....
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:01 AM   #19
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MG Cycle has the socket tubes? Dang! I could not find them. I suppose I should have just called. Oh well, I had fun on my solution and probably saved money.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:19 AM   #20
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With the dash up and running, it was on to the next big question mark: the wheels.

I knew the bearings were nicely gummed as I couldn't get them to budge with my hand. They turned fine on the bike, but I was sure it was going to be unsavory in there. The biggest concern for me was the spokes and nipples being seized in place. I spent a few weeks bathing the SOB in PB Blaster and eventually got the nerve to start the tear down.

The blaster did it's job, but there were a few that really didn't want to come out. Much careful tapping lands me here:

 photo IMG_0233_zps90afacb8.jpg


The spokes and nipples were crusty and in need of help. For the initial clean, I brought them into the bike shop with me and let them sit in the parts washer for a few hours. It cleaned them up nicely, but the nips especially were still fairly nasty. I decided to give them an overnight stay in some citric acid, the old handloaders trick for cleaning up spent casings.

 photo IMG_0235_zps5d48dc9d.jpg

 photo IMG_0236_zps1517c765.jpg


I actually really liked the bronze/copper look it gave them, but what the hell. I'm probably only going to rebuild the wheels once, so I decided to polish them. Before and after the denim wheel:

 photo IMG_0317_zpsae0079aa.jpg


Not bad!

From here I pulled the bearings and seals. As expected, the grease in there had set up like old elmer's glue. I cleaned up as much as I could by hand and the parts washer took care of the rest.

 photo IMG_0231_zps89b5db75.jpg


(note: these are the headset bearings, but they all looked about the same after they came out. Shiny and ready for another 40 years of service)

The bearings look fine to me, so they'll be going right back in with new grease and some fresh seals from MC Cycle. That'll do pig, that'll do.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:45 AM   #21
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It was time to turn my attention to the forks, shocks, and rear drive. They were all that remained between me and and a trip to the powder coater. I was getting excited to see some final finish, so the intensity of my efforts increased notably. Luckily for me, my work slowed down a bit around this time, so the garage awaited.

Forks up first. Initially, I called the local Guzzi shop to see if they had the fork collar removal tool and would be willing to spin them off for me. Perhaps they're not familiar with the old bikes, but they offered to charge me more than the tool itself would cost. Considering how easy and fast it is, I assumed they either didn't know their shit or didn't want to deal with it. I'll hope for the second.

A trip to the big orange gentleman's mall resulted in a 6" length of 2 1/2" iron pipe that was to be my homebrew fork collar tool. A perfect fit over the stanchion. Now it just took some careful measuring and some expeditious use of the dremel.

 photo IMG_0355_zpsc480d0d7.jpg


Perfect! Well, not so much. Since the collar is too damn deep to really get decent measurements out of, I was guessing at the tab size. I purposely overestimated and slowly shaved them down until it dropped into the fork collar. A perfect fit...and only $4.

Off come the collars and the lowers:

 photo IMG_0274_zpse04659e2.jpg


Before and after clean up. Again, the grease had cemented into a nice solid paste over the last few decades.

 photo IMG_0276_zps909c7279.jpg

 photo IMG_0278_zpsb2e37200.jpg


Much better! I spent an hour or two cleaning up the stanchion tubes, lowers and assorted hardware before I called it done. It was ugly in there, but all the parts seemed to be in great shape and doing their intended job. New seals, oil, and grease should be all it needs.

The shocks were up next and proved to be the first real disappointment. The springs and preload rings came off without trouble, but I could NOT get the damper assembly loose from the can. The pin spanner just bit into the soft aluminum to the point that I was worried about damaging them permanently. Well, F it. Rattle can time.

Springs come off:

 photo IMG_0280_zpsb79bb55a.jpg

 photo IMG_0281_zps7ec06d4a.jpg


Paint goes on:

 photo IMG_0333_zpsea182b65.jpg



The damper feels like it's functioning fine, but I still would like to have been able to refresh the oil. If it becomes an issue, I'll probably just have to replace the shocks down the line. For now, they live to fight another day.
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Old 08-23-2013, 10:12 AM   #22
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I'd read the rear drive sections of thisoldtractor and was expecting the worst. Words can't express how much I'd love to NOT be one the idiots they mention as having ruined their rear drive by force of sheer ignorance or stupidity. Catch me on the right day and I have both of those in spades.

Well, nothing for it but rolling up the sleeves and digging in.




Initial hand inspection yielded no noticeable play between pinion and the drive spline, so my hope was to avoid a full bevel box rebuild. The pinion carrier came out easily enough and the teeth, although worn a bit, are not chewed. I pulled the rest of the box apart and found the crownwheel in decent condition as well. Everything spins freely, I feel no bearing roughness or drag...I think I'm good to go. New seals and gaskets and I'll sleep fine knowing I'm not one of the dreaded idiots. One thing I thought was funny: whoever rebuilt the box last used silicon caulk in lieu of fresh gaskets. Maybe nobody was sourcing new gaskets back then? Or maybe they just liked the idea of it. Either way, it was holding oil like a champ. It took a long time to get it all out of there!

The plan is blackout wheels, so the rear drive shell still needs to come all the way down. This little bearing race has me confused until I emailed Greg Bender:




He told me about his roaster oven solution. Heat up the shell and the race drops right out. Sounds too easy to be true. Roaster ovens aren't free (and I really don't want a roaster oven) so I decided on the grill to avoid stinking up the house. I cleaned up the shell really well to avoid oil burn, then made a little foil tray to keep the grill from getting spoiled. To my amazement, the race dropped out after about five minutes in the 400 degree heat. Gotta love physics!




With the rear drive handled, I was finally ready for powder. Almost ready for powder, that is. The engine was still sitting pretty in the frame. John stopped by to lend a hand and it was sitting on the work bench within minutes. A night of hard drinking ensued, but that's a story for another time.



(git yer hands offn' my sweet Italian woman's underthings!)


Here's what's going to powder, plus the frame of course:

 photo parts_zps56d046ce.jpg


Back in black...and lookin' good.




A few of the aluminum parts show a bit of off gassing, but it's nothing that I'm going to lose sleep over. All the steel looks amazing and the aluminum really only shows a few small blemishes around the hubs. So it goes.

Next up, wheel building.

Lucky 7 screwed with this post 01-09-2014 at 03:19 PM
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:53 PM   #23
Speed King
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Great thread, great bike. Thanks for taking the time.
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:45 PM   #24
bpeckm
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[QUOTE=Lucky 7;22164613 snip
snip
snip




That'll do pig, that'll do.[/QUOTE]





Well done, indeed....

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Old 08-23-2013, 02:02 PM   #25
duckman
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thats an attaboy,two more attaboys and you get a raise.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:04 PM   #26
HapHazard
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Oh, no! You didn't name your bike "Fredo" did you?





Enjoying the build!
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Old 08-24-2013, 04:58 PM   #27
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No name for the old girl yet. I'll have to come up with something. In the meantime, leave the guns...take the cannelloni.
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Old 08-24-2013, 05:53 PM   #28
JonnyCash
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When I re-did my T3, one of the most tedious, unlovable tasks I undertook was getting the black paint off of every-fucking-thing that one of the POs improved it with. Did you own my bike at one point? I respect the fact that it's YOUR bike, but blacking out everything seems so wrong on such a classy bike.
Carry on.
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Old 08-26-2013, 09:45 AM   #29
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Wah, wah (sad trombone)

Can't make everybody happy and life is too short to even try. If it makes you feel better, my blackout comment was in reference to the wheels, not the whole bike. I probably didn't make that clear.

I actually spent a ridiculous amount of time agonizing over the final scheme of the bike. I wanted it to feel like the classy, chromed out old girl that she is, but just a bit darker behind the eyes. A few things are going black against spec, but mostly it's the wheels that will make the difference. Everything that was chrome from the factory will be staying chrome and the chrome tank panels and pinstripes will be brought back to factory look.

I can't speak for tastes, but as far as I'm concerned it's going to be titties in the face when it's all finished up.
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Old 08-26-2013, 10:12 AM   #30
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On to wheel building! I must admit, I'd been looking forward to this stage from the day I bought the bike. I've built hundreds (seriously hundreds) of bicycle wheels, but I really didn't know what to expect from the stiffer spoked brethren of the motorized world. Turns out, bicycle wheels have a bit more finesse involved, so I really didn't have much of a problem.

Lacing up (and watching The Watchmen):





Tension and true. I looked high and low for specs on 'how much tension' but only really found recommendations to whack it with a wrench and if it sings, it's tensioned. Easy enough. For bicycle wheel building, there's a tensiometer to tell you where you're at. Not so much here, I guess. Either way, they tightened up nicely and all the hops pulled right out.





The tires went on without TOO much difficulty, although the rear was brand new and fought me a bit. I used a few pieces of garden hose slit length-wise to protect my new powdercoat from the tire irons. Worked like a champ. Then it was time for a little old-school backyard balancing:




Lead/tin solder got them all balanced out:




Perfect! I'm loving the look of the black wheels.





Around this time I got the tank all drained and partially stripped. Alas, the chrome panels had been sanded off to accept paint, so it goes out to chrome with the rest of the pile.





As a side note, this ended up being a pretty terrible day for me. My neighbors contractor didn't clean up after himself the night before so I had a nail in my car tire first thing in the morning. Drag. I jacked up the car and was just pulling out the wheel when the factory jack snapped in half and crushed my hand between the fender and the tire. With no small amount of effort I extricated my hand, but in smashing my hand the fender had a nice big fold and my hand swelled up like an orange. I picked up a proper floor jack from AutoZone, got the wheel out and patched, and got it back to driveable with the intention of filing a claim with Audi. Long story short, they said it was my fault and won't cover the damage. What a crock of shit.

The lesson here is do not, under any circumstances, use the factory jack if you own an Audi. Mine broke in half and collapsed so immediately that I couldn't even get my hand out in time. They're explanation was that I didn't block the tires and it rolled (absolutely NOT what happened), so I got the big GFY from USA corporate. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr...

On the bright side, I didn't lose my hand and I dropped off parts for chrome. I'll take what I can get, I guess.

Lucky 7 screwed with this post 08-26-2013 at 11:24 PM
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