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Old 10-25-2013, 08:26 AM   #121
MZRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danedg View Post
What size are those rings Charlie? I've got a metric ORing kit...just wondered if they might be in there.
Had to look in my notes, buried deep on my computer, finally found the answer. The o-rings are "JIS" Japanese Industry Standard, not SAE or Metric, so I doubt they'll be in any o-ring assortment.
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:40 PM   #122
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I think I'll go with the Stucchi deep splines and just pick up a new clutch hub. Everything I see on the topic is that the 4mm splines work better and last longer on the 5 speeds. Seems like you guys generally agree on it too, so what the hell. Worth a try at least.

I'll replace the intermediate plate, but I'll need to take a closer look at the friction surfaces on the pressure plate and starter gear before I decide on them. I'm hoping to reuse them, but only if they're nice and smooth. I'll check that out this week while I'm getting everything cleaned up.

Thanks again for all the advice, it's incredibly helpful.

Lucky 7 screwed with this post 10-26-2013 at 01:01 PM
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Old 10-28-2013, 07:13 AM   #123
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Originally Posted by Lucky 7 View Post

And here's a closer shot of the starter ring. There definitely was a pile of metal shavings at the bottom of the bell housing that used to be attached in these parts:

 photo IMG_0467_zps61d80c99.jpg


Experts opinion? Is this thing toast or does it live to fight another day? With proper shimming, it shouldn't be a problem to get the starter to throw farther before it powers up, but your opinions are welcome.

Now I guess I'll check my tolerances and see what goes in the trash and what goes back into the box.

I'm not familiar with the Guzzi's, can the ring gear be flipped over? That's what we used to do with the old American V8's.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:34 PM   #124
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Nope, it's a sided affair. The back side has a clutch friction surface on it, and the front has countersinks milled in for the flywheel bolts. Sadly I had that same thought before I knew what was going on with it, but no dice. Oh well.
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:10 AM   #125
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Back at it! It's been a busy few weeks, but I've managed to get a bit of engine work done here and there. The more I read and work on the engine, the more comfortable I'm getting with it, but I think I'll still be really happy to have it all back together. Although, I'm sure my stomach will be in my throat the first time I start it...

First off, I decided to get all my cast parts cleaned up. Charlie, the Eagle 1 wheel cleaner did a fantastic job, thanks for the tip (and the o-rings). I was amazed! There was still a good bit of scrubbing involved, but I couldn't believe how well it cleaned and brightened the aluminum. I figured some of those stains were there to stay.

Lots of reapplications and rinsing:

 photo IMG_0477_zpsac396a3d.jpg



Getting the inside cleaned out:

 photo IMG_0478_zpsc9661bce.jpg



Here's the result. Compared to the tranny, it looks damn near new.

 photo IMG_0480_zpsbff834a1.jpg



The heads get a good bath as well:

 photo IMG_0483_zps2f6b28cf.jpg



Then it was time to pull the valves. I know there are a few tools for this, but I found success with a pretty lo-fi method. Just a piece of steel with an oversized hole allowing plenty of clearance for the collets and a few clamps. Once the clamps were compressed, a little tap on the steel snapped it loose and I could pull the collets with a magnet. Easy enough.

 photo IMG_0482_zpsae99627b.jpg



Then it was time for lots of measuring. Valves are all well within spec and reveal no excessive wear or scoring upon inspection:

 photo IMG_0484_zps34656636.jpg

 photo IMG_0487_zpsa4bcd6e4.jpg

 photo IMG_0488_zpsc990a652.jpg



The crank and cam all measure well within spec as well. The end bearings measure out well and don't show excessive wear. My one area of uncertainty is the con-rod bearings. They seem in fine shape to the eye, but they allow more lateral play than spec. I need to do more measuring and install them to torque and then make a determination on new bearings. Once they're torqued up, I may find that it's fine.

Things are starting to look fairly positive on the engine. Aside from the clutch, the inside of it looks and measures out great for such an old engine. I suspect that it's been rebuilt within the last ten years and perhaps not ridden a whole lot. It's looking like new seals and gaskets are going to be about all it needs.

A question on the heads: do I need to have a port/polish job done? I've read some conflicting things about the process, but that relates more to the polish. At the very least, it seems like a good idea to have the seat surfaces milled for a fresh seal. Any thoughts from the gallery would be welcome.

At this point, I'm dangerously close to putting in my engine parts order and starting back the other way on this thing. I'll take a second look at my con rod bearings, then it's probably time to pull the trigger.
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Old 11-05-2013, 08:39 AM   #126
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You need to check the guides that the 7.98 stems ride in. They should be around 8.00 - 8.022. Touching the seats is a good idea. Port and polishing would be a waste of money IMO. It's a tractor...


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Old 11-05-2013, 03:15 PM   #127
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Oh yeah, good call. I'll check those and I still need to check the rear cam bearing in the block.

Is there a good way to measure the valve springs, or is just best to replace them?
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:52 PM   #128
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Nice job on the clean up of the motor parts. I did my (airhead) heads and jugs in the kitchen sink with warm water. Seemed to open the pores a bit to facilitate the cleaning process.

I've been enjoying your thread all along, nice work !

Mike
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:50 PM   #129
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Originally Posted by Lucky 7 View Post
Oh yeah, good call. I'll check those and I still need to check the rear cam bearing in the block.

Is there a good way to measure the valve springs, or is just best to replace them?
If it ain't broke, why fix it?
It sounds like you've a low mile motor that's in pretty good shape.
Clean it up and reassemble with fresh gaskets and seals and ride.
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Old 11-06-2013, 03:13 PM   #130
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If You're Thirsty

for valve spring data...



After you've replaced them all, you can send the old valve springs to the Dan Edgcomb Home For Old Moto Guzzi Valve Springs .Home

Address Upon Request!
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Old 11-07-2013, 08:04 AM   #131
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Well, it sounds like a great organization you're running. Helping the needy valve springs is a truly important cause.

I finished up with the remaining measurements and I think I'm going to leave things as they are. The valve guides look good, as do the con rod bushings upon reassembly and torque. Clutch, seals, and gaskets and she should be good to go.
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:14 PM   #132
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Gett'in Head

They should be this trim!
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:03 AM   #133
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Eleven days!

Great work, I have a V50 that needs some love.
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:46 AM   #134
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11 days?

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Originally Posted by pckopp View Post
Eleven days!

Great work, I have a V50 that needs some love.
Whazzat mean?
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Old 11-18-2013, 11:08 AM   #135
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Whazzat mean?
Nothing to see here. Move along.
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