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Old 08-19-2013, 10:00 PM   #16
CRW
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Location: Cotati Ca. USA
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I just did a head gasket job on my 06 just under 30k. I was on a trip in Baja. Running at sustaind triple digets for hours on end. Coolent started to puke on my right leg. I found a small amount of greyish slugs in my expantion tank. I re routed the over flow line into a coke bottle filled with water. So the over flow tube is submerged. Start bike, see bubbles? Head gasket blown!
I pulled the jugs and head and had them resurfaced, new rings and gaskets.
One cylinder defiantly had a low spot.
Good luck and have fun. The 950 motors are fun and easy to work on once out of bike.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:43 AM   #17
Sumi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renogeorge View Post
Classic symptoms of a failed head gasket are bubbles in the coolant with motor running and cap off. Sweet smell of coolant in exhaust. If pump is good, flow should be good looking through the filler. Got time to do a compression check before you tear it down? I am sure it happens, but I don't recall hearing of an LC8 head gasket failure. Did you get it super hot?

My '07 has 35k miles on it. Runs good, no oil used. I won't even be thinking about a rebuild for a long time.
If the cap is removed it's normal to have bubbles in there - as the coolant can boil -> introducing bubbles. So the only easy way to test a blown head gasket is the way CRW mentiones in the post above. BUT: You have to have the cap on the radiator and you have to be sure the cap isn't failing (if it is, it's almost the same as you didn't have a cap on the radiator, as the coolant will start boiling without the pressure valve - which would be the cap)
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:03 AM   #18
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As it's a 950, it's worth checking that trhe cylinder head nut TSB has been performed. On the early engines there was no washer under the head nuts - the TSB was to fit a washer and a different nut.

When my 950 had a blowing head gasket, the act of replacing and retorquing the nuts cured it.

Some people go as far as to recommend retorquing the nuts at every major service - I'm not sure about that one.
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Old 08-20-2013, 06:26 AM   #19
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It would be nice to think a re-torque would cure it. I'd be worried the gasket would be compromised and start to leak again when I'm in the middle of nowhere.

I'll pull the motor later today and see what I find. Timing marks on the crank and cams apparent?
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Old 08-20-2013, 07:48 AM   #20
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Cycletech, pm me your email address I will email you a present(service manual) if you don't have one....
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:01 AM   #21
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CRW, you da man!
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:41 PM   #22
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Trick on getting the motor back in: Pull the swingarm back out of the way, and catch the motor with the swingarm pivot shaft (whatever it's called) and the lower engine bolt. Next, catch the front of the motor with the aluminum hangers. Then, go back and remove the swingarm shaft, install the swing arm, and insert the pivot shaft.

I tried for hours to get the motor in the hard way. After removing the swing arm and doing it as above, we were done in about 20 minutes.


Oh, and I can tell you how NOT to time the motor, if you want to know.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:52 PM   #23
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Thanks for the tips, seems just like pulling/installing a Ducati engine. I pulled the front head today with the engine in the bike.. It. is. not. pretty..
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:53 PM   #24
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Thanks for the tips, seems just like pulling/installing a Ducati engine. I pulled the front head today with the engine in the bike.. It. is. not. pretty..
Oh no! What did you find?
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:56 PM   #25
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Orangecicle, What air filter setup are you using?
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:00 PM   #26
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Orangecicle, What air filter setup are you using?
Stock.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:01 PM   #27
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Oh no! What did you find?
Broken top ring, worn cylinder, head gasket was leaking, cases are worn at the base of the cylinder, valve guides worn, con rod bush is done....

I will try to take some pics later.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:10 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Cycletech View Post
Broken top ring, worn cylinder, head gasket was leaking, cases are worn at the base of the cylinder, valve guides worn, con rod bush is done....

I will try to take some pics later.
Shheeeeiiiiittt. If I were in that position, I'd find a 990 donor and just change out the few parts you need to make it work with carbs. I spent $1,500 on mine just to redo the top end and replace the cams with 990 cams. While your cams may be OK and not pitted, you still have a lot of coin to spend to get it running again, and you have the Pyndon syndrome on the cases. Yep, I'd find a power plant from a suitable organ donor and call it a day.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:13 PM   #29
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That's the plan... Cams look great though!
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:15 PM   #30
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That's the plan... Cams look great though!
Sell them! Look up the prices on those cams in the book. The 950 cams are ridiculously high. I think they are phasing them out.
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