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Old 09-01-2013, 06:00 AM   #91
AdvRich
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Enjoying the read and pics!
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Old 09-01-2013, 06:05 AM   #92
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This was Thursday's route, some 233 miles. I'd gladly go back to the French Shore. We saw dozens of roads that looked ripe for exploration. What we managed to fit in was some of the most enjoyable terrain of the trip.

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Old 09-01-2013, 06:37 AM   #93
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Friday, August 23 - You'll Be Wet

When we rolled into the tents Thursday night, there wasn't a cloud in the sky. The moon was shining brightly, and the stars were out. If you don't like Newfoundland weather, just wait a minute. I awake at about 6:45 to sullen skies. I putter and poke around for 45 minutes or so half-heartedly packing things. There's no sign of life from either of the other tents. Around seven thirty, the skies open up. Screw this. I roll back into the tent and make friends with my sleeping bag.

They may have gentle rains here, but we didn't experience any. What we saw was very businesslike soaking stuff. After a while, shouted conversations ensue between the tents. No one wants to go outside. It's mentally difficult to pack soaked gear and get onto a wet bike to ride through more rain. We loll around and procrastinate until nearly noon with the rain drumming off the tent flies. During what appears to be a lull, we wedge our dripping baggage into the panniers and mount up.
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:21 AM   #94
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I can't emphasize the importance of bringing warm gear and good waterproof layers to The Rock enough. August is the warmest and driest month here, but we've hit frequent rain. My riding shell is feeling its age, so I'm wearing a theoretically waterproof jacket under it, with fleece and poly underwear. Anton is tricked out in the best Gore-Tex that Klim can afford, and Rich has Frog Togs over his riding jacket. We're all saturated after a short space of time. Although it's not extremely cold -- in the mid to high 50's -- by the time we come to Parson's Pond, we're all thoroughly chilled. We stop at a small cafe and bakery to get some hot food. It's a tiny place, and the run-off from our gear has the floor swimming. A couple from Halifax, NS is in one booth, and we have a friendly conversation.

Shortly thereafter, a couple of young riders roll in and refresh the moisture on the floor. They're of college age. One is mounted on an early 80's Yamaha 750 Seca, the other on a well-used 500 Shadow. They're headed up to Anse Aux Meadows in this slop. Better you than me, guys. They are cheerful and optimistic though. We'll see them on the ferry a few days later.

We decide to continue south. I've heard that there's a hostel down the road in a former hospital. Motels and cabins are pricey here and elsewhere in Canada. As I recall, the hostel is reasonable. We all need access to a washing machine, a dryer, and a warm place to sleep tonight. The cafe owner says the place is in Norris Point, which is not far away.

Anton goes to mount his bike, and lets out a particularly heart-felt "blyat!"

"Вот Сволочь Блядь! сын сука!"

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=blyat

His tool roll isn't strapped down in the usual location. He doesn't want to trek back to the campsite, but he suspects he left the bag on the ground there. Rich and I, in the best ADV tradition, tell him that we'll take the risky mission of finding the hostel for him and securing it against attack. Anton's one tough SOB. I would have probably abandoned the bag, given the conditions. It's a good thing Anton didn't, as we'll discover.
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Old 09-01-2013, 07:56 AM   #95
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About Thursday night...

We chose our site to cowboy camp based on the availability of flat land, rocks for a fire ring and firewood. This spot had it all. It also looked like some mighty fine bear country. Tim suggested that if we left the bears alone, they'd reciprocate but I had my concerns.

Anton wandered deep into the woods in search of dead trees for the fire. The rocks for the fire ring were not loose and had to be yanked out of the soil. By the time we were ready to light it off it was pretty dark. But it wasn't pitch dark because out came the bright moon. You could see shadows from the trees. It was the kind of night that marauding bears enjoy sacking campsites.

As I took off my riding jacket I noticed a strong odor of rotting fish. Now this was well into our trip so at first I considered that it could be me that smelled. But it smelled a lot more like the effluent splashing from the tailgates of the fish trucks we often saw on the slab. That should teach me not to follow them so closely!

My riding jacket usually resides in my tent but to be a little more bear safe, I left it on my bike, where it could get soaked in the morning.

Anton likes a big fire. I was hoping bears don't. Thanks Anton...

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Old 09-01-2013, 08:02 AM   #96
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Once I heard some rustling by my bike that night. I shined my flashlight and yelled at it and it stopped. I suspect it was only a porcupine.

Laying in the tent for hours while it poured I discovered a visitor:



He was much less threatening than a bear.


Our camp was thoroughly washed this morning:

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Old 09-01-2013, 08:14 AM   #97
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One thing you don't have to worry about travelling in Nfld is porcupines. There are none. No skunks, no snakes, no lizards either. There's rabbits, but only because they were imported, though the Arctic Hare are native.
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Old 09-01-2013, 08:36 AM   #98
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I think he was happier believing it was a porkypine!!
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Old 09-01-2013, 08:48 AM   #99
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I saw a black fox at the campground outside Corner Brook. It was a beautiful animal, and quite bold. It walked within three feet of me and looked me over.

We heard coyotes several nights, but didn't see any.
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:06 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuman View Post
I saw a black fox at the campground outside Corner Brook. It was a beautiful animal, and quite bold. It walked within three feet of me and looked me over.

We heard coyotes several nights, but didn't see any.
I wonder if it was the same guy we saw in Corner Brook construction? He was not timid at all. But very cute.

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Old 09-01-2013, 09:18 AM   #101
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Probably his cousin. The one I saw was very large for a fox, but I'm only accustomed to red foxes here. I suspect there's good eating at the campground. We saw plenty of rabbits, and people were casual about securing their food.

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I wonder if it was the same guy we saw in Corner Brook construction? He was not timid at all. But very cute.
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:23 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canuman View Post
I saw a black fox at the campground outside Corner Brook. It was a beautiful animal, and quite bold. It walked within three feet of me and looked me over.

We heard coyotes several nights, but didn't see any.
I have seen them too. I read that they are a variation of the red fox where the black becomes the dominant color. Often you will see small red or white patches on them.

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Old 09-01-2013, 09:26 AM   #103
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I have seen them too. I read that they are a variation of the red fox where the black becomes the dominant color. Often you will see small red or white patches on them.

Peter

http://newfoundland.hilwin.nl/PHP/en/animals.php
Yes, they are the same species, just a different colouration.
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:33 AM   #104
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Speaking of good eating, I had a pea soup at the cafe in Parson's Pond that was delicious. It wasn't like any pea soup I'd tasted before. Made of yellow peas, it also had rutabaga and a variety of other veggies in it, as well as salt beef. Nice.

If you pass that way, I'm sure that the folks at Parson's Pond would appreciate your business. The little cafe and bakery is just before the bridge on the southwest.

I found a recipe for it here: http://allrecipes.com/recipe/newfoun...tyle-pea-soup/, but the one I tasted also appeared to have onion in it.

We never did find a place that offered fish and brewis. I bought some local smoked salmon in Rocky Harbour, and we ate it with sour cream and onions. It was superb.
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:39 AM   #105
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Hey boys, nice going there and nice prose as Murph says. I haven't read the whole thread where are you going from there?
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