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Old 09-03-2013, 12:51 AM   #16
Melrone
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Just a word of advce.I did a restore on a Ural tub about 10 years ago with a chemical strip it was alot work.I'm hoping to repaint my Ural tub soon.This time I'm going to have it soda blasted then Rhino line the inside and paint the outside. It took 2 gallons of aircraft strip and then it was like $40 a gallon.I can get my tub blasted for $100,Drop it off one day pick it up the next day...Its alot easier and quicker..Good luck like to see the finish product.......
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:38 AM   #17
Dan Alexander OP
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Why soda blasting over sand?

I've been reading and it seems Line-X is preferred over Rhino but it's not a DIY. Are there good Diy products?
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:48 AM   #18
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really a resto?

Hi Dan,

That tub doesn't look that bad. It could be brought back with a little elbow grease. My question is how far back to you want to bring it? Do you want a showroom paint job, or a serviceable "10 foot" car that won't rust?

You could rent a hopper and a compressor and mediablast it yourself, or take it somewhere. You could also get to work with a drill and cup brush and some sandpaper. Epoxy or Bondo and POR15 will work. You have to follow the POR15 directions to the letter to get the benefits. Otherwise it's just nasty paint. My Dnepr car rig has a POR15 undercoat and there's been no rust over 2 years on. The rig lives outside on the East coast- lots of weather.

My wallet is very thin too. My car was in really bad shape. This is what I did:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713860

I was thinking more tugboat or tractor than hotrod.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Alexander View Post
Why soda blasting over sand?

I've been reading and it seems Line-X is preferred over Rhino but it's not a DIY. Are there good Diy products?
There is a Valspar waterbased rool on product but it's gotten tough to find, Rustoleum has a roll on product, I just put a little more on my floor.You'll have to prime anyway most of that stuff doesn't stick to bare metal.Anyway you look at it you'll have stuff to do this winter.DB
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:49 AM   #20
Melrone
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Originally Posted by Dan Alexander View Post
Why soda blasting over sand?

I've been reading and it seems Line-X is preferred over Rhino but it's not a DIY. Are there good Diy products?
Soda blasting doesn't warp the metal like sand blasting does.Its just baking soda but it does a wondderful job...
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:21 AM   #21
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My compressor is 5.3 scfm @ 90 psi

1.6 hp 4 gallon.

Would that work for a small job?

A local has this gravity bucket for sale for $20 ... any use to me?

[IMG] photo T2eC16VHJIgFHSOf7bSEBR9Y3pZg48_20_zpsb202eceb.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 09-03-2013, 10:29 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by MotoJ View Post
Hi Dan,

That tub doesn't look that bad. It could be brought back with a little elbow grease. My question is how far back to you want to bring it? Do you want a showroom paint job, or a serviceable "10 foot" car that won't rust?

You could rent a hopper and a compressor and mediablast it yourself, or take it somewhere. You could also get to work with a drill and cup brush and some sandpaper. Epoxy or Bondo and POR15 will work. You have to follow the POR15 directions to the letter to get the benefits. Otherwise it's just nasty paint. My Dnepr car rig has a POR15 undercoat and there's been no rust over 2 years on. The rig lives outside on the East coast- lots of weather.

My wallet is very thin too. My car was in really bad shape. This is what I did:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=713860

I was thinking more tugboat or tractor than hotrod.
2 years outside is pretty good, I'll take that. I plan or doing the Trans Lab and other looong gravel trips with it so showroom isn'y necessary but I would like it to look good at the same time or I would use it as is.

You did a full POR 15 undercoat and then painted over it with regular paint or did you do some linex stuff as well?
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Dan Alexander View Post
2 years outside is pretty good, I'll take that. I plan or doing the Trans Lab and other looong gravel trips with it so showroom isn'y necessary but I would like it to look good at the same time or I would use it as is.

You did a full POR 15 undercoat and then painted over it with regular paint or did you do some linex stuff as well?
It's POR15'd, then primed and topcoated with another POR product called MetalMask, which is basically caliper paint. I wasn't concerned with looks as much as durability. It would definitely take a more finished type topcoat, but you'd have to have that in mind during all your undercoats and prep. As has been said, the prep is key.

I undercoated the bottom with rattlecan bedliner from the autoparts store. Still all there. Honestly I didn't expect it to last at all- just shot it on there as an experiment. So far so good.
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:05 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melrone View Post
Soda blasting doesn't warp the metal like sand blasting does.Its just baking soda but it does a wondderful job...
I know a guy who had his Ural sandblasted and that created all sorts of warping.
I can't attest to soda being safe or not. Soda is needs to be flushed from the crevices very well and if you are doing it in the back yard, don't expect the grass to survive.

A 4 gallon compressor is not big enough. Blasting uses a lot of air, continously. Air compressors aren't designed to run continuously. Sears has a chart. http://www.sears.com/ue/tool/110109_...or%20Chart.pdf

Henry
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:37 PM   #25
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Thanks for the chart, my stuff is way off for a full strip. And the warning about the grass.

Do I really need to do the inside top of the front cowl part and the trunk. The original paint is still there and not peeling or anything.

The bottom of the interior where the water sat for ages of course is another story it's very rusty.

Seems like blasting the whole thing is overkill?
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:40 PM   #26
Dan Alexander OP
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Originally Posted by davebig View Post
There is a Valspar waterbased rool on product but it's gotten tough to find, Rustoleum has a roll on product, I just put a little more on my floor.You'll have to prime anyway most of that stuff doesn't stick to bare metal.Anyway you look at it you'll have stuff to do this winter.DB
I checked a couple of the reno stores and found Duplicolor roll on liner.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/bedArmor/
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Old 09-03-2013, 04:48 PM   #27
Abenteuerfahrer
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I've done the restoration dance with countless paints, chemicals, etc, etc. from boats; cars to Moto/sidecars... and can attest to first sand blast the Tub..soda blasting is too gentle! Then paint or pour POR 15 (pour on rust) into inaccessible rust areas that the blasting cannot reach.

It's nasty stuff, wear gloves and do it in well ventilated areas. No need to paint the whole shebang just the inaccessible rust area. POR just encapsulates the rust where the tenacious paint will anchor itself strongly to the iron oxide; cures hard and prevents further moisture from accessing itself.

Then Bondo or equivalent all dings, dents! Sand flush. Prime the entire Tub with a good primer...epoxy($$$$) is best but rattle cans($) will do alright. Coat the interior/bottom with your choice of hardn]bedliner or equivalent. Do the topsides with a good PU(Polyurethane)($$$) either hand painted or sprayed, add a protective clear coat. You'll stand out

cheers..
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:03 AM   #28
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As another thread instructs, I'll take all the appreciated info and filter it through my own thoughts and see what kind of a mess I can make

I bought two nice fender lights that I was missing and they indicated they were for a Ural/Dnepr as a lot of things are listed. Seems things aren't as interchangeable as I thought.

They don't fit.

[IMG] photo P9031333_zps16b61836.jpg[/IMG]


[IMG] photo P9031334_zps41d99489.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:45 AM   #29
Abenteuerfahrer
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Originally Posted by Dan Alexander View Post
As another thread instructs, I'll take all the appreciated info and filter it through my own thoughts and see what kind of a mess I can make

I bought two nice fender lights that I was missing and they indicated they were for a Ural/Dnepr as a lot of things are listed. Seems things aren't as interchangeable as I thought.

They don't fit.

[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]
The nice fender lights seem to mate pretty well against the fender or it doesn't follow the curvature??. But you mean that they don't fit as per fastening holes already made? IF so, fill these holes using Bondo or equivalent BUT with a small fiberglass cloth backing behind inside the fender and saturated in Bondo or equivalent. Do this first, let dry and harden..then fill outer hole. For better strength tenacity I used West System's epoxy where I make my own pastes using their adhesive/fairing filler in which I make my own consistency. These are high strength.



Are these fender lights from the Ural supplier? Be carefull when replacing the bulbs and refastening the brass screws to hold the lens...the lens is of a weak plastic and can easily crack when overtightened! Houising is made of medal, right?

Same lenses of my former rig... but on a plastic wider fender..




cheers...

Abenteuerfahrer screwed with this post 09-04-2013 at 10:53 AM
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Old 09-04-2013, 08:46 AM   #30
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Odd bolt pattern for a Dnepr/KMZ lamp. Doesn't look like the modern (past 30+ years, the type in your photo) style or the K750 style. I know there is another type however it is more rare.

BTW, the wheel is not Dnepr/KMZ - looks Chinese.
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