ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-04-2013, 04:43 PM   #1
zaphoid OP
At the Space Bar.
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Michigan
Oddometer: 123
My shed needs your help

It dose not look all that bad, in most places.



But around back, there was a 2x3 trim strip. I knew it was failing so, I pulled it off and tried to clean things up.
This is what I found.








So, what do I do next?
Do I have to pull the sheeting off and replace it, or does one of you have a slick way to repair this?
What went wrong, Should the 2x3 have been lower down so only the drip edge could be behind it?
zaphoid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 04:52 PM   #2
H96669
A proud pragmatist.
 
H96669's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Location: Hiding off Hwy 6, B.C.
Oddometer: 4,462
6"+ roof overhang at the front. What??? 2" in the back????
__________________
Have tools, will travel!
H96669 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 05:09 PM   #3
zaphoid OP
At the Space Bar.
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Michigan
Oddometer: 123
1x3 trim strip. ha.

Yep the overhang in back is nothing... of 1 inch if you want.

Most of the sheds down at home depot are this way. Dont make it right, but there it is.
zaphoid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 05:10 PM   #4
gsweave
Yinz, blinkers are on.
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: The Paris of Appalachia
Oddometer: 11,276
I would say your bullshit T-111 got water collection problems. Weather side???

__________________
1Paul 2:15
For it is God's will that by doing good you should silence the ignorant talk of foolish men. 16 Live as free men, but do not use your freedom as a cover-up for evil;... .
gsweave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 05:17 PM   #5
*Gmoney*
don't look here
 
*Gmoney*'s Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Where I want to be
Oddometer: 910
If it was mine I would just seal the rotten part of siding and replace 1x3 trim with a 1x6 trim and caulk.
It is in the back so larger trim would not be offensive.
It could even be painted the same color as siding and the human eye would not see the trim size difference.

*Gmoney* screwed with this post 09-04-2013 at 05:23 PM
*Gmoney* is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 05:23 PM   #6
troidus
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 13,079
The cheap and easy fix is to get another piece of T-111 and some new trim boards and put it back the way it was. The better fix is to strip off the T-111, put up marine-grade plywood sheathing, wrap it with Tyvek, and side it with Hardie plank or similar.
troidus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 05:28 PM   #7
zaphoid OP
At the Space Bar.
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Michigan
Oddometer: 123
Quote:
Originally Posted by troidus View Post
The cheap and easy fix is to get another piece of T-111 and some new trim boards and put it back the way it was. The better fix is to strip off the T-111, put up marine-grade plywood sheathing, wrap it with Tyvek, and side it with Hardie plank or similar.

He said cheap and easy. Just thought I should quote that.
zaphoid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 05:41 PM   #8
gsweave
Yinz, blinkers are on.
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: The Paris of Appalachia
Oddometer: 11,276
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaphoid View Post
He said cheap and easy. Just thought I should quote that.


Got to love Hardie siding. (hell no I can't afford it)


cheap would be marine osb


cheapest is what ya got
__________________
1Paul 2:15
For it is God's will that by doing good you should silence the ignorant talk of foolish men. 16 Live as free men, but do not use your freedom as a cover-up for evil;... .
gsweave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 06:28 PM   #9
zaphoid OP
At the Space Bar.
 
Joined: Feb 2008
Location: Michigan
Oddometer: 123
I will need one sheet of T111. Not too expensive ($40).
I might even get by with a 4x4, but no one sells it like that. The triangle area is 10 ft wide, and 28 inches tall. So, lots of cutting. Gonna need a skill saw.
Would need to disassemble some 1x4 pieces and replace them ($20), primer ($20), paint ($20).

The real question is how to stop this again.
Just poor maintenance on my part, or the trim strip in the wrong place?
zaphoid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 06:32 PM   #10
kirkster70
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
I recently went through the exact same thing. I snapped a chalk line around the rotten part then set the depth of a circular saw just enough to go through the T1-11. Carefully remove the rot without damaging the underlying studs. You may get lucky and the studs will be solid.

Replace with more of the same. Paint, and caulk making sure you seal off the areas that allowed water in in the first place. It's an all day job, but you will be glad when it's done and behind you.
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 06:36 PM   #11
gsweave
Yinz, blinkers are on.
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Location: The Paris of Appalachia
Oddometer: 11,276
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaphoid View Post
I will need one sheet of T111. Not too expensive ($40).
I might even get by with a 4x4, but no one sells it like that. The triangle area is 10 ft wide, and 28 inches tall. So, lots of cutting. Gonna need a skill saw.
Would need to disassemble some 1x4 pieces and replace them ($20), primer ($20), paint ($20).

The real question is how to stop this again.
Just poor maintenance on my part, or the trim strip in the wrong place?


How old is the shed?


if it is a 5year jpb like paint it aint that big a deal


Silicone chaulking above the trim strip, to shed the water?????
__________________
1Paul 2:15
For it is God's will that by doing good you should silence the ignorant talk of foolish men. 16 Live as free men, but do not use your freedom as a cover-up for evil;... .
gsweave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 07:12 PM   #12
troidus
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 13,079
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaphoid View Post
He said cheap and easy. Just thought I should quote that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsweave View Post
Got to love Hardie siding. (hell no I can't afford it)


cheap would be marine osb


cheapest is what ya got
I didn't say Hardie was cheap or easy.
troidus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 07:15 PM   #13
troidus
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Oddometer: 13,079
Zaphoid, the only way to keep that kind of siding from rotting is to keep it indoors. You can make it last longer if you prime and paint all six sides before installing it, then use caulk to limit moisture intrusion, but it'll still rot eventually.
troidus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 08:39 PM   #14
HapHazard
t00 0ld 2b n00b
 
HapHazard's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Central CT
Oddometer: 2,190
Quote:
Originally Posted by troidus View Post
Zaphoid, the only way to keep that kind of siding from rotting is to keep it indoors..
Even then....

Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I recently went through the exact same thing. I snapped a chalk line around the rotten part then set the depth of a circular saw just enough to go through the T1-11. Carefully remove the rot without damaging the underlying studs. You may get lucky and the studs will be solid.

Replace with more of the same. Paint, and caulk making sure you seal off the areas that allowed water in in the first place. It's an all day job, but you will be glad when it's done and behind you.
^I'd do this, but instead of putting back that horizontal trim that traps water, and/or trying to seal it (shoveling shit against the tide), how about step-flashing with white aluminum material from just below the seam to the peak? You could probably sneak the flashing under the gable end trim (you do have a flat bar to pry it up a bit?). It faces the back, and I don't think it'd look too bad anyway. If you try to take off the top T1-11 gable piece you'd have to remove the trim, drip edge and maybe start effin' up the edge of the roof shingles.
Good luck!
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax-...specifications
HapHazard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 04:39 AM   #15
crawdad
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Nov 2004
Location: South Jersey
Oddometer: 429
Quote:
Originally Posted by zaphoid View Post
It dose not look all that bad, in most places.



But around back, there was a 2x3 trim strip. I knew it was failing so, I pulled it off and tried to clean things up.
This is what I found.








So, what do I do next?
Do I have to pull the sheeting off and replace it, or does one of you have a slick way to repair this?
What went wrong, Should the 2x3 have been lower down so only the drip edge could be behind it?
Looks like you already have z flashing between the top and bottom pieces of t-111

So either remove and replace entire gable piece or do like Kirkster says and just cut out the bad part and use z flashing on both horizontal joints. Thoroughly paint the bottom edge of the t-111, skip the trim piece it just traps water
crawdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 02:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014