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Old 09-22-2013, 11:36 PM   #1
motomacs OP
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Joined: Sep 2007
Location: Warner NH
Oddometer: 110
Way Out West

I left New Hampshire August 3rd for a six week solo trip out west. This is my first long trip on my 2010 F800GS purchased last November. I spent the winter prepping it for the job.

Here is the pre-flight shot.

Late departure. 2:00 PM.
Ah well. We are underway at last. I find the excitement of leaving on this grand adventure suddenly overwhelmed by grief at leaving those I love behind. What am I doing? I cry off and on for a few miles. I know -it doesn't sound very brave and adventurous but there it is. I did not turn around. I put on 250 miles starting with my commute to work. Warner, NH to Keene, NH then Rte 9 across Vt . Very scenic but within easy striking distance of home. At my first gas stop the station is swarming with BMWs. I am asked if I am going to the rally? "What rally? " Apparently I had missed that Yankee Beemers were holding a rally that weekend.
Oh well I have bigger fish to fry.The goal is to get to Westfest by Thursday night.
I stopped about 50 miles short of Rochester, NY at 7:00. I cannot find the lodging function on my new Zumo 665. I try 2 highway hotels both full. It is summertime in the finger lakes region. I find a too expensive Comfort inn and call it good. By the time I unpack and get to the recommended and also only tavern in the area they have stopped serving food. Bar snacks? No.
I stop at an all night "grocery" on my way back to the hotel. All the food packages are dusty. I buy what turn out to be inedible dried fruit. Fermented.
Pressure relieved I convince the Zumo to give up its secrets. I can now find lodging. I go to bed hungry.
Lesson: stop earlier.

Day 2-August 4
Slab to Montpelier, Oh.
I stay at the Econolodge. I made a reservation through Priceline. No hunting tonight.
The place was reasonable and clean although the location at the back of a gas station, truck stop gave me pause. The owners were friendly and helpful in spite of a language barrier.
The restaurant next door that was one of the reasons for the choice is closed but there is pizza delivery, a real treat for a rural dweller. Hot food brought to your door!
I have dinner and breakfast taken care of.
I slept well. It was very quiet.
I plan my mileage for the next day and reserve a room at the Rainbow Motel in West Liberty, Iowa.

Day 3 August 5
-more slab. Then the Rainbow Motel. I had reserved a room through Priceline.
The surly, sickly pale tattooed teenage girl checked me in without a word.
This was a strip motel that had seen better days. The room was small but the bed, shower, and Wifi worked fine and it was clean enough. The restaurant across the street served a reasonably priced, meal that was really pretty good.
In the morning I had a nice run on the county road across from the motel. Miles through the cornfields and pastures.
Shower, breakfast at the restaurant and off again. Packing is getting faster.

I'd had enough of the big road and took to the county roads. I finally got my camera out in Iowa. I'm on vacation, right?

Windmills and corn in Iowa

Part of my route in Nebraska was once part of the Pony Express route.


Detail on the door Latch of a Black Hills Pony Express station that now resides at Pioneer Village on Rte 6 in Minden, Ne.

Day 4- August 6
I find the best hotel yet. Fox Hollow Motel in Sutton, Ne. Very clean. The owners obviously take pride in the place.The owners said I could put my bike on the porch for the night. I can't recommend this place highly enough. I think my room was $59.00.
They recommended Grampa Jakes for food but said they didn't know if he was cooking tonight. He wasn't so option 2 was Subway.
I had another nice run up the hill across the street on nice sidewalks through well kept neighborhoods.

Day5- August 7
Sutton, Ne to Ft Morgan, Co 361 miles
Today was the first day I felt I could relax the pace a little. I would obviously make it to Westfest in time.
In Iowa they had warned me I would be bored to death with Nebraska. I actually enjoyed it. I love farms.

Day 6- August 8
Fort Morgan to Buena Vista,Co - 200 miles
Finally there are those mountains I've been hearing so much about.
I slab it on 70 through Denver traffic to 285 and start to climb. In no time at all I am surrounded by picture book scenery. I ride for an hour before it starts to rain. It is still beautiful. It rains hard but when it stops I dry in minutes. I get to Arrowhead Resort about 3:30. I check in and follow the directions about where to pitch my tent. I hurry to get set up before the next thunderstorm rolls in. I was casting about for a place to set up when I come across Dave who offers room at his site if I would like and also a desperately needed beer. Done.

Nice view from the campsite
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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Old 09-22-2013, 11:56 PM   #2
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Friday morning- August 9
My plan is to spend the morning resting and doing laundry. I am leisurely eating a bowl of oatmeal when Eddyturn pops in to say they are leaving in 20 minutes to go do Cottonwood Pass. So much for leisure. I hurriedly clean up and dress.
It was the right decision. I had a blast.
We rode Cottonwood Pass . I got my first trophy photo. We went on to Spring Creek on dirt roads. We rode some curvy pavement up to Taylor reservoir for some scenery shots. Then we went back to Tin Cup, an old mining community now only summer occupied. We had pulled pork and pie there. We returned to camp in time for the distillery tour which I did not make still needing some clean laundry and a shower.
My first trophyshot

Cottonwood Pass

Taylor Reservoir dam
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:17 AM   #3
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Saturday - August 10
I have signed up for the 5 pass ride led by Eddyturn.
We start with Cottonwood Pass, pausing for pics at the top. On to Tin Cup where we stopped to wander and take pictures.
From Tin Cup we went over Cumberland Pass

At the top of Cumberland Pass something felt amiss with my steering. I had lost a bolt out of the steering damper. Fortunately I found one to fit in my spare hardware kit. I had it repaired before everyone was ready to leave.
We went on to Pitkin where we stopped for gas and snacks.
A smaller group of us went on to Jaunita, Black Sage and Old Monarch passes. I got my first experience in "open range" sharing the road with cattle.

We continued to Old Monarch pass and then back to camp for beer, dinner, raffle prizes, music and silliness.
I changed my oil and refilled my Scottoiler before getting into the beer.
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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Old 09-23-2013, 12:42 AM   #4
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Sunday, 8/11
Most people packed and left this morning. There were just a few Westfest riders left.
I went back to Old Monarch pass this morning and took Tomichi Creek Road to Marshall Pass Road with my friend Dave.






We made a brief foray into Salida looking for Hayduke's business and then cut for Arrowhead just ahead of the afternoon thunderstorms.
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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Old 09-23-2013, 12:57 AM   #5
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Monday August 12
Solo again.
I packed up and headed for the San Juans.
Last look at the Collegiate Peaks and Sawatch Range over Taylor Reservoir.



Dillon Pinnacles - West of Gunnison, Co


Ended up at the Silver Spur Hotel in Lake City. Rodents in the walls kept me up all night.

Had a great meal at the Packer Saloon on Silver street.
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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Old 09-23-2013, 01:06 AM   #6
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Tuesday 8/13
I packed up 11 pounds of stuff and shipped it home. Disc locks, clothes, water purifier (where did I think I was going?). Hiked down to the post office and had done with it.
Slumgullion Pass south of Lake City


I continued south on 149 to 160 and over to Durango where I picked up the "Million Dollar Highway". I reserved a site at the KOA in Ouray- no more rat infested motels.

Molas Pass in the San Juans



I found myself camped next to some inmates from Texas who offered burgers and beers. If you haven't invested in an ADV sticker, get one. It has more than paid for itself in beer alone.
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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Old 09-23-2013, 01:27 AM   #7
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Wednesday, 8/14
I set out for Last Dollar Road in the morning.

I met the road grader shortly after starting up from the Ridgeway end. I pulled over as far as I could. He missed my footpeg by a couple of inches. I think he had done this before. I kept telling myself that as I did not want to have to return to camp for clean shorts. I was too panicked to remember the camera.

Stunning views on this road

an avalanche path


Shortly before this shot a herd of bighorn sheep had crossed right in front of me.

There were a few water crossings on this road




Down into Telluride for lunch at Cucina De Luz.


...and company for lunch


After lunch I went down to Rico.



Lizard Head Pass


On the way back I went up Altas Lakes Road.


Old mine on Altas Lakes Road
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'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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Old 09-23-2013, 07:07 AM   #8
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So far so good..
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:33 AM   #9
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8/15/2013
Off to Mancos, Co. to Basin Motorcycle Works for a 12,000 mile service on the bike.
I left my tent and duffle bags in Ouray and headed down Hwy 550.
It was much more fun without all the weight.





I arrived in Mancos at 2:30. and stopped at the shop. I got directions to the Enchanted Mesa Motel, friends of Harry the owner.
First Stop was lunch at Zuma, a natural food grocery and cafe.

View form the deck at Zuma


I had a caprese, dried tomatoes, basil mozzarella and spinach with a mushroom olive oil tapenade and a small fresh salad. Excellent!


Then I checked into the motel, stripped the bike and headed to the car wash to remove the patina of a week's riding off road.
Now clean, I took the bike back to the shop and met Matt the tech who would work on it tomorrow. It needs to cool for 6 hours in order to adjust the valves. I gave him a rundown of any accessories or modifications he might run into. He seemed to be very capable and said the bike should be done by 11 or 12.
I bought a Tee shirt from the shop ( nobody at home will have one). The woman who rang it up asked if Harry had mentioned that there was a farmer's market with live music from 4:30 to 6:30 in the park. Great. Off to the park. I bought 3 fresh carrots and ate one on the spot, saving the others for breakfast. Then I bought a cup of homemade ice cream and met Karen who introduced herself and said " You're not from around here." So we chatted a bit and she filled me in on the history of the band, the town, recent fires and things not to miss while I'm staying in Ouray as she used to live there. I don't think I'll feel the need to check out the clothing optional hot springs,though.

Re-purposed coke cooler


Mancos sidewalk


I had good Mexican food for dinner and walked back to the motel to plan tomorrow afternoon when the bike will be done.
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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Old 09-24-2013, 09:20 AM   #10
docwyte
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It was nice meeting you and riding together at Westfest! Glad to see you had a good time, hopefully you'll be back.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:59 AM   #11
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Reminds me of my first Coast/Coast trip. Like you I boungth the bike for the trip. Spent a few months getting it ready. And left Boston for 2005 MotoGP at Laguna. Like you, I also got a very late start. Maybe 1pm. First night made Erie. 2nd night Lacrosse WI. 3rd and 4th camped at Badlands. Toured the backroads south to Wounded Knee then back up through the Black Hills. Was a great trip. I left the bike in the Bay Area and flew back a couple months later to ride it west. That was through Southern Utah, AZ and NM.

Looking forward to more. Looks like you have a well thought out kit.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:02 AM   #12
motomacs OP
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Thanks for the encouragement. This is my first ride report though I have been living vicariously through other's stories for some time. It is nice to know there are people enjoying it.
I had a great time at Westfest; beautiful scenery, wonderful riding and awesome people.
Pantah- sounds like a great trip. I thought about the Indy MotoGP but timing was a little off.
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:51 AM   #13
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8/16
I got a call this morning from Harry where I left the bike to be worked on yesterday. The tech who was supposed to work on my bike called in sick. It will now not be ready until the end of the day. I had hoped to take in Mesa Verde in the afternoon. Oh well. It looks like a walking tour of historic Mancos. It does have some beautiful old buildings.
I went for a run along the Mancos river and then up above the town and back down Grand Ave. After a shower and breakfast I wandered into Nathaniel's Hats.



He and his wife make very nice custom made hats. I looked around a bit and left with a card.
I got maybe the best espresso I've ever had at Fahrenheit Coffee Roasters across the street where this Australian shepherd was sitting in the front seat of the wagon out front under the awning.



I borrowed Harry's car to retrieve my luggage from the motel and dropped it off at his shop so I wouldn't have to pay for another night. Then I went back to Nathaniel's and got fitted for a hat.
He had this great old fitting tool. It was round with a hundred or more wooden keys that formed to your head. At the top a piece of paper was inserted and when a lever was pushed it punched a pattern that the hat form could interpret. It looked like some sort of medieval torture device. He and his wife had color and shape recommendations to suit head shape and skin color. Quite extravagant but my favorite hat was stolen years ago and I'm a tough fit. So in a few months I will have a custom made cowboy hat. Yee-ha!
So I go back to the motorcycle shop to find my bike has been pushed outside still apart. ?
Apparently Harry forgot where some of my accessories went and was awaiting my return. So I finished up the bike and reassembled all the luggage. I grabbed a slice of pizza next door and hit the road at 5:30.
I decided to go to Mesa Verde anyway on the off chance I could get in. It was only 15 minutes up the road.
I'm in luck. They are open until 7! I swiftly navigate the 20 mile road in, making mental notes of photos to take on the way out when the sun is lower. I am too late to go down to the sites and can only take photos from the overlooks.







I get a few shots and head out as the road closes at sunset.





I am nearly back to the gate when I spot a mesa in my mirror with the moon behind it and the sun still on it's face.



I bring up the campground up on the GPS. Three hours it says and it is already dark.
I have been warned by many not to ride after dark out here because of the wildlife. It is all true. I saw uncountable deer. A herd of elk was occupying the road at top of Lizard Head Pass. They were not particularly impressed with my little motorcycle. It was a long slow trip but I made it without mishap although many opportunities presented themselves.
I arrived back to camp at midnight and fell into bed.
__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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Old 09-29-2013, 01:40 PM   #14
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keep it up ma'am

we demand more pics!

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Old 09-29-2013, 07:15 PM   #15
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8/17/2013
I did laundry, took a shower and packed up.
Noon. I have to get faster at this.
I am headed to Grand Junction today to Best Buy where I hope to come up with a USB cable for my camera or a card reader so I can access my photos. So I made a reservation at the KOA in Grand Junction. When I called they said they were an urban campground. OK. "Is the tent site grassy"?" Yes" It will do. I don't see any reason to go through Montrose so I take the long way around through Unaweep Tabeguache Scenic Byway. Was it ever!





Tabaguache Canyon Flume- Dolores River There is the remains of a sluiceway hanging on the canyon wall that miners built for processing ore. A series of smaller and smaller boxes increased water pressure.


Hovenweep


The road makes its way along the Dolores River Canyon. Red rock sandstone contrasted with the lush greenery along the river.



After Gateway, a town of opulent luxury and abject poverty, Gateway Canyon had beautiful fertile fields and gorgeous horse farms.

Signal Rock


As I came down to meet Highway 50 to go into Grand Junction it got HOT. 98 degrees. Now at times during the day I contemplated what an "urban campground " might look like. I arrived to find it situated next to the fairgrounds. There were 4 tent sites. The rest appeared to be majority of permanent residents here for work. The guy next door came home from work and was greeted by dogs, kids and wife. The campground shows movies every night on the side of the building. You would have no trouble following the action from anywhere in the park. It went on until midnight! The Koa where I stayed in Ouray had quiet time after 10. Not here. My neighbors behind me went on partying late into the night. They were 5 feet away. Now I understand "urban camping". I did accomplish what I came here for though. I scored a USB cable for my camera and also a spare battery in case I forget to charge it as I did today. Only cell phone pictures from today.
I did a little work on the bike when I returned from my errands as the stalling problem I had seems to have returned. The booster plug I installed ( fools the ECU into thinking the ambient temperature is cooler than it is so it will enrichen the mixture) seems to have stopped working since the service. So I took the bike apart to check. I unplugged all the connections and reconnected them - found nothing. It ran fine after the massage. I guess that is all it wanted.

__________________
'12 KTM 200 XCW, '10 BMW F800GS, '06 HD XL1200R, '94 Ducati 900SS,'03 TTR125, '77 Yamaha RD400 vintage racebike,72 Suzuki T250J, '60 BMW R27
'
GBNF-'72 DT250,KZ400,Kaw 700LTD,'98HD XL883,99HD-FXDL,'99 Duc ST4,
'01 Duc 748, '05 Duc Multistrada 1000SDS,'06 BMW R1200GS, '12 HD FLSTN

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