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Old 11-05-2013, 01:49 AM   #91
RDT953 OP
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Wrong footed

I got off on the wrong foot with Lombok, as I said before I arrived on a Sunday which is not only market day but also the day of rest and recreation and the roads were chaotic. I got into Senggigi and it's a tourist town with all of the negative aspects that go with it. Come Monday and it's a different story, the traffic has calmed down, the touts are more relaxed and it's actually possible to get some information about the island without someone trying to sell me an island excursion, a bike to rent, a car to rent, a 4 day hike to the mountains, a T shirt, a sarong, some nice pearls. I'm starting to see what people find so attractive about the place. The beaches are just so beautiful and the people really are so nice and friendly, the food is cheap and delicious no wonder so many Aussies pack up and move here when they get to retirement age.

Senggigi photo WP_20131104_008.jpg

End of day Senggigi photo WP_20131104_040.jpg

I took a ride along the coast road to a vantage point and met a group of bikers from east Java who wanted pics and a good look at PB.

Niiiice photo WP_20131104_032.jpg

Java bikers photo WP_20131104_021.jpg

Another admirer photo WP_20131104_017.jpg

The customising culture is alive and well in Indonesia, this little pocket rocket was sporting racing slicks.

Fastbike photo WP_20131104_009.jpg

So after a couple of days kicking back in Senggigi I headed north along the coast towards Gunung Rinjani, had to stop for a pic of these workers heading to the rice fields.

Hiho hiho photo R_RICEWORKERS.jpg

On the other side of the road the rice farm extends to the shoreline.

Farm meets sea photo R_FARMMEETSSEA.jpg

Stopped around 10am for a coffee and snack at a beach side warung. The snack is made from sweet potato, just like potato crisps but with a hint of chili.

Snack by sea photo R_SNACKBYTHESEA.jpg

A sign on the road pointed to a "Traditional Village" 2km, so I detoured for a look and was disappointing to find a Disney version for tourist groups so I didn't bother stopping or taking any pics. After Timor and Flores where the real thing is still very much evident this was a poor imitation.

Continued slowly around the coast and eventually reached the turn off to the waterfalls and Rinjani Base Camp.

More rice production, fed by the diverted waters from the waterfalls.

Rinjani rice fields photo R_RINJANIRICE.jpg

It's a pretty clever system where part of the water is diverted but the remainder still follows the natural course of the river. I'm given to understand that the sluice gate to the rice fields is closed every few days to push more water down the river.

The aqueduct.

 photo R_AQUADUCT.jpg

I asked about camping and was told I could but was then offered a room for 70,000rp so decided to leave the tent packed. Took a guided walk to the waterfalls to inject some funds into the local economy.

There are two sets of falls, both are worth the time to visit.

Tiu Keler photo R_TIUKELER.jpg

Disappointingly this area also suffers from litter, on the way back I spotted a plastic bag in the river and asked the young guide, Aldi to go and take it out, we had a bit of a chat about the litter problem and to his credit we both filled the bag with litter just from the path on the walk back out. He copped a bit of a ribbing from his mates when we reached the top of the path but at least we did something.

Litter Warrior photo R_LITTERWARRIOR.jpg

I'm glad I came up here, the waterfalls alone make it worthwhile. I had hoped to get a better view of Rinjani but cloud cover has put paid to that notion. It's a 3 day hike to the crater, I think I'll pass.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:09 AM   #92
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Wow! You are at Senaru! Find that legendary third waterfall, the great Betara Lenjang. The other waterfalls are $hi*th0l3 compared with it.
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:10 PM   #93
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I enjoyed my stay in Senggigi for a few days, despite the tourism focus, but not so much the earthquake we had while I was there. I even met the local undercover drug cops, who wanted a photo with my bike.

I'm loving your photos and report.

Re the rubbish. I'd commented on it in Vietnam, when I was there 3 years ago. A friend pointed out that the Asian people had for thousands of years been used to wrappings that were biodegradable... banana leaves, etc... and the partial transition to plastic hadn't been accompanied by a change in the throw-away habit.
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Old 11-05-2013, 03:13 PM   #94
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nice reports. i've been wondering which stove you took are you finding fuel easily?
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:32 AM   #95
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Still a legend

Quote:
Originally Posted by blek View Post
Wow! You are at Senaru! Find that legendary third waterfall, the great Betara Lenjang. The other waterfalls are $hi*th0l3 compared with it.
I asked at one of the larger trekking centers about the legendary 3rd waterfall, seems it is just that; a legend.
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Old 11-07-2013, 12:52 AM   #96
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Rubbish

Big Fella that's a similar story to the one I got in East Arnhemland when I talked with some of the Traditional Owners and while I sort of understand it; it really doesn't wash with me. Several people I've mentioned the litter problem to here acknowledge that it's a problem. Interestingly the sides of the roads are pretty clear of trash, the people living there collect and burn it every day, hence the pervasive smell of burning plastic in the evenings. The scenic areas don't have anyone living there and so it's nobody's responsibility. In China when I spoke with people about throwing rubbish on the ground the response was that people are paid to clean it, which in the cities and larger towns they are but as soon as you get out of town it just accumulates because people still have the same throw away culture.
I'm not on a crusade about this by the way, but it irks me enough to want to at least raise the issue.

Haildamage, I bought the little fold up gas stove I used in Japan. Had to hunt around a little in Dili for the cylinders but since getting into Indonesia I've seen more of them in the shops. Not getting to use it as much as I'd like though, cooked food and made coffee is just so cheap here.
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:07 AM   #97
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Rinjani to Kuta

Up early as usual, packed and headed down the mountain on the lookout for breakfast. Against my better judgement I stopped in at one of the larger, built for foreign tourists trekking centers with an attached cafe. Not a bad breakfast but inflated prices. But at least the clouds had cleared and I had a nice view of the mountain from the cafe.

Rinjani photo R_RINJANI.jpg

Declined the offer a three day trek up the mountain, my old legs where still feeling the the steps to the waterfalls from the day before.
Took the same route back towards Senggigi but detoured through the Monkey Forest road up into the hills to bypass Senggigi and most of Mataram. Found an AHASS Honda place and pulled in for a quick oil change for PB. They only charge for the oil, the service is free. $3.20 for an oil change is good value in my books. The little engine sounds better straight away, it's a subtle change but I notice it.
Some serious money is being spent on infrastructure on Lombok and I ended up on a dual carriageway out past the newish International Airport. (now with direct flights to Australia) At some point in the ride I'd decided to visit Kuta Lombok, no real reason other than curiosity to see how it compares to Kuta Bali.

Saw this lady with a large load of coconut husks along the way. Pretty impressive balancing act I reckon.

Big load photo R_BIGLOAD.jpg

Went past this restaurant which believe it or not is actually floating, could be a catch it and eat it type of place?

Floating resto photo R_FLOATINGRESTO.jpg

Arrived at Kuta around lunch time and found a cafe near the beach for a lunch of Gado Gado (curry with veg and egg) I was invited to share a table with a nice couple from the farming districts west of Perth. After a nice slow lunch and a good chat I went exploring for a camp site. I headed west along the road which isn't on the coast but behind the hills. Again the signs of development are very evident with new sealed roads.

Kuta coast road photo R_KUTACOASTROAD2.jpg

Along the flat sections the farms all have this broad leafed plant that I think could be tobacco?

 photo R_TOBAC.jpg

Went by a production center for grass roof panels.

Grass roof panel production photo R_ROOFPANELS.jpg

And the finished product.

Traditional style roof photo R_GRASSROOF.jpg

Didn't find anywhere to camp and by now the effects of the western style cafe breakfast were making themselves obvious. I've eaten at all the places we get warned about avoiding with no problems at all. Then I deviate for one meal and the gut cops a flogging. I need a room with a toilet and shower. Returned to the Kuta area and followed a sign down a small track to Bule Homestay, I'd guessed by the condition of the track that this would be a pretty traditional sort of arrangement. A bloke saw me riding down the hill and directed me around a couple of corners and through a gate into what looked like the palatial home of a very well to do local businessman. I didn't even get off the bike, telling the bloke it would be too expensive and out of my price range. Just look OK, we talk about the price after you look. No mate, it's too expensive I'll look somewhere else. No, please just look OK? OK I'll look.

To give you some idea, this is the door to the room.

Bule HS photo R_BULEHS.jpg

He showed me inside which was just as nice with A/C, TV, Fan and a huge bead with very nice coverings. Then he showed me the guest kitchen and mentioned that breakfast was included. OK mate I'll play the game, how much? Well I'll tell you and if your not happy you tell me and we negotiate he says. Hmm, OK. By this time my guts is telling me I need to get this stuff sorted and bloody soon. OK how about 150,000rp ($15)a night including free coffee and tea and breakfast. What? I'm in, thanks.

This is a seriously nice Homestay owned by a lovely bloke who also owns a very nice cafe near the beach called Bule Warung which is very popular.

Spent the next several hours close to the loo venturing out just for a bite to eat and some drinks.

Next morning this is served for breakfast.

Bule Bfast photo R_BOLEBFAST.jpg

Felt secure enough after some charcoal tabs to go for a ride east along the coast calling in to various beaches.

PB Beach break photo R_PBONBEACH.jpg

Beach at Kuta photo R_BEACHNEARKUTA.jpg

Many of the hills with views to the sea are being cut up into estates with lots of Aussie owners from talking with locals.

Development site photo R_DEVELOPMENT.jpg

This place is in a boom period and is set to take on Bali as the premier destination in Indonesia. The govt has determined to control development along the foreshore by demolishing all of the ramshackle warungs and homestays with a plan to turn it into walkways and gardens.

Beachfront redevelopment photo R_BEACHFRONTREDEVELOPMENT.jpg

Novotel are already established here and I did a ride past but opted for coffee at the nearby warung where the employees hang out.

Warung Novotel photo R_NOVOTEL.jpg

Just some random pics from the ride this morning.

Buff herd photo R_BUFFHERD.jpg

More bloody litter.

Surfy litter photo R_SURFLITTER.jpg
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Old 11-07-2013, 02:34 AM   #98
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Honda Trail Forum mention

Wow! I got mentioned on the Honda Trail CT90 - 110 Forum. Thanks to the reviewer for the plug, I only hope I can live up to the review. Now I feel guilty for staying in this flash homestay.
Actually while on the subject, I'm finding it increasingly more difficult to make real connections with people the more west I travel. I suspect it's just going to be around the tourist hot spots where I'm a potential customer rather than a visitor.
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:26 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDT953 View Post
I asked at one of the larger trekking centers about the legendary 3rd waterfall, seems it is just that; a legend.
Oh, forgot to mention that you need to speak Sasak Language to unlock the treasure. XD
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:34 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDT953 View Post
I suspect it's just going to be around the tourist hot spots where I'm a potential customer rather than a visitor.
Ah, don't worry, you are not alone. They treat other Indonesians like that too. Whaddya expect from tourism oriented community? :))

You can come back to Dompu anytime. You still haven't go fishing with your same-old-guy friend. Mone's father. =))
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Old 11-10-2013, 02:22 AM   #101
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Figures

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Originally Posted by blek View Post
Ah, don't worry, you are not alone. They treat other Indonesians like that too. Whaddya expect from tourism oriented community? :))

You can come back to Dompu anytime. You still haven't go fishing with your same-old-guy friend. Mone's father. =))
I agree Blek, I wasn't implying that it's just foreigners being targeted, from what I've seen so far there are many more Indonesian tourists in Lombok than there are Bule, except in certain locations. Just making observations, and yes it would be nice to go fishing with Mone's father but that opportunity has passed. :-(
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Old 11-10-2013, 03:12 AM   #102
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Outback Lombok

Leaving Kuta I'd decided to try to follow the road along the south coast as far west as I could. I was still navigating with a photocopy of a tourist map from the hotel in Senggigi.

Route map photo R_ROUTEMAP.jpg

I was fine up to Selong Blanak but then lost the road. I'd stopped to cross reference the map and my phone GPS fix when this bloke in a car across the road yells out "is that a bloody postie?" turns out it's a couple of Aussie blokes working on the civil engineering works for an estate along the coast. I showed them on the map where I wanted to go and they said follow us we're going that way now, hang on.

The turn off was only about 100 meters up the road but I'd never have picked it, it looked just like a farm track.

Plantation Road photo R_PLANTATIONROAD.jpg

A bit further on I saw this hill that sort of reminded me of the Close Encounters of the 3rd kind movie.

Close encounters photo R_CLOSEENCOUNTERS.jpg

I didn't see Richard Dreyfus anywhere so kept following the Aussies, the road gradually deteriorated until we came to the construction site. This is in the vicinity of Sepi.

Road construction photo R_ROADCONSTRUCTION.jpg

Got some verbal directions which I forgot soon after and just kept veering left at most road junctions. I had some nice smooth sections of road behind the beaches.

Beachroad photo R_BEACHROAD.jpg

Went past a mosque under construction.

New Mosque photo R_NEWMOSQUE.jpg

Then heading up into the mountains the roads got really testing with lots of first gear and some pushing with the legs on the really crappy bits. Somewhere after Belongas.

Bad road photo R_BADROAD.jpg

Went through some nice isolated little villages.

Village road photo R_VILLAGEROAD.jpg

And as the road got narrower I started having doubts about the direction, I was seeing very few other bikes now and no cars. West of Rambut Petung, not mapped now.

Narrow road photo R_NARROWROAD.jpg

So in keeping with the ethos of following the front wheel I pressed on, I was actually really enjoying the ride and the scenery.

Coast glimpse photo R_COASTGLIMPSE.jpg


Stopped at the top of one of the passes so these young fellas could have a look at the bike. They were both smoking huge hand rolled cigarettes.

Smokers photo R_SMOKERS.jpg

The views of the coast were very spectacular but the mountain sides along the way show plenty of signs of clearing and burning.

Coast view photo R_COASTVIEW.jpg

When the road goes up into the mountains for spectacular views it inevitable leads back down to the beach and creates more challenges for an old bloke on a small bike.

Downhill photo R_DOWNHILL.jpg

Decision time on which of these horror roads to take; the one downhill headed back to the coast and the maps and GPS were telling me that I should by now be heading inland. I looked at the inland road and it didn't look promising so I opted for the coast road again. It turned out to be the right decision but by now I was in an area that on the paper map had no roads at all.

Threeways photo R_THREEWAYS.jpg

I went down through a small fishing village and then back up into the mountains again for this brilliant view.

High point photo R_HIGHPOINT.jpg

Then came to this encampment which turned out to be gold prospectors. I showed my map to the lady and pointed to where I was trying to get and she indicated I should keep on the way I was headed.

Gold miners photo R_GOLDMINERS.jpg

And about 15 minutes later this.

Blacktop photo R_BLACKTOP.jpg

I need to go right at that intersection to get to the place I'd sort of decided I wanted to get to but having come this far I wanted to see where the road went so turned left.

I came to four police boom gates spaced at about 50 metre intervals. The first three were up so I stopped at the forth and was waved around it by the attending officer. I stopped for a chat and asked if it was OK to go through. I have no idea why the police had this area under control but they were happy for me to go through and told me that if I needed anything to come back and see them.

This is what is at the end of the road.

Turtle beach photo R_TURTLEBEACH.jpg

I had the whole place to myself so went in for a bit of a dip and them broke out the fishing gear, I thrashed the water to foam for about 2 hours for no reward. I could have camped but without much water and not wanting to go and fetch some and return I decided to find a room. The stomach was still not 100% either so I had an excuse for the soft option.

Days end photo R_DAYSEND.jpg

Two nights here to recuperate.
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Old 11-10-2013, 10:26 AM   #103
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Quote:
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I didn't see Richard Dreyfus anywhere so kept following the Aussies, the road gradually deteriorated until we came to the construction site. This is in the vicinity of Sepi.

Road construction photo R_ROADCONSTRUCTION.jpg

Sepi?! Damn you, Postie! You hijacked my personal paradise!







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Old 11-10-2013, 03:05 PM   #104
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Not a watercolour

Took this shot in the morning. Camera is my Nokia Lumia 920. The photo appeals to me because it looks like a watercolour painting. Keep in mind that I'm viewing it on small screens.

Rinjani watercolour photo R_WATERCOLOUR.jpg

I bought the Lumia 920 on the strength of its navigation capabilities, it was the only smart phone I could find that could be used as a stand alone GPS navigator while being completely offline. I downloaded the maps for Indonesia and then found that the map is incomplete, showing no roads east of Bali. The bonus for me with this phone has been the camera for both still and video and I'm increasingly finding that it's taking superior shots to my point and shoot camera and easier to manage video than my GoPro and Drift.

Now that I'm in Bali the turn by turn voice navigation along with the visual display is brilliant. The only downside being battery drain; I have onboard charging but it can't keep up.
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:40 PM   #105
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