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Old 10-18-2013, 04:21 AM   #46
CallMeBoog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
I do find it surprising that the OP feels that measuring and adjusting the combustion volumes, and polishing the crowns of what look like shoddy far eastern pistons, is suggestive of blueprinting?

What he has done will certainly help a road machine run a bit smoother, but not fitting hardened valve seats, and failing to properly check parts such as the rods, are not things that I think should be overlooked on any fairly high standard rebuild on one of these old motors.

You've made that point several times. Move on.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:52 AM   #47
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Hey Dewey,

Every time you or anyone else quotes him, all those of us who have him (and a couple others) on ignore get to see his posts. Sooner or later he will fade into obscurity.

Did you powdercoat or paint the cylinders?
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:08 AM   #48
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Thanks for sharing the build-how it's done the right way. Really enjoying following along the past few days.

The static from the peanut gallery-not so much.

Dirty
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:49 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dewey V View Post
Everything in these engines were rough. Apparently the factory didn't think that simply being dull was reason enough to replace cutting tools.

Isn't it just a matter of cost for the OEM?
And the fact that the engine design, as built at the factory, is under stressed. So there is no need to remove potential defects from the parts.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:11 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzcoinc View Post
Isn't it just a matter of cost for the OEM?
And the fact that the engine design, as built at the factory, is under stressed. So there is no need to remove potential defects from the parts.
On paper, the engine may be under stressed, but the materials weren't what we're used to now. The relatively crappy materials turned what should have been low stress parts into high stress parts.

The ownership wasn't used to real competition and sucked every penny off the top and failed to reinvest in new tooling or designs until it was too late. That was the downfall of the British bike industry.

Bob
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:20 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by jeep44 View Post
They didn't call that model a "Daytona" for no reason-it won there in '66


Anyway, I have a '67 T100R also. A very interesting thread for me, because it currently has a single-carb head on it, and I have what I hope is the correct head on the shelf, waiting for the day I get sufficiently motivated to change it. (It does run so nicely with a single carb)
Not sure about the 500cc engines, but in general the 650's run better with single carb heads. May not be true for Mikuni's but with stock Amals the twin carbs have slightly better top end, but the single carb engines have better acceleration and of course are less fussy to tune. I have a twin carb Bonneville and I've even considered switching to a single carb head.

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Old 10-18-2013, 08:26 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Langanobob View Post
On paper, the engine may be under stressed, but the materials weren't what we're used to now. The relatively crappy materials turned what should have been low stress parts into high stress parts.

The ownership wasn't used to real competition and sucked every penny off the top and failed to reinvest in new tooling or designs until it was too late. That was the downfall of the British bike industry.

Bob
Apathy killed the British bike industry in the 60's/70's.

p.s. It's back though
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Old 10-18-2013, 09:54 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Dewey V View Post
The pistons are GENUINE NOS UK HEPOLITE parts. They are not "shoddy far-eastern" knock offs.
The rods have been checked.
I have explained the reality of the valve seat situation.

Now please shut up because with each post you display further ignorance.

Ok, but still feel it would have been a very good idea to have fitted hardened seats, and posted pics of how to go about checking the rods, as many people dont know how to do this, and a how to covering it would have been quite helpful.
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:49 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Those rods look a bit suspect to me. Did they check out ok when they were tested? Not that costly to get engine parts properly checked, and its surprising that people spend so much time on preparing parts, which in some cases are certain to be scrap.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Seems strange you feel that no proper checking needs doing on 40 year old engine parts, and without that not sure how you are doing a blueprint type job of building your motor?

For a top level job, I would have had the head crack tested, and checked for flat on top and bottom deck faces, if all ok have hardened seats fitted, and a proper 3 angle valve seat job done by someone with a Serdi.

Rods checked for straightness, and bearing bores for round, then NDT for any non visible defects. The rest of whats required depends on whether the bike is being used for race or road, but its always worth taking care over parts like rod bolts, as there are a lot of very poor pattern ones on the market.

Saying that though your build looks a lot better than most, and discounting the fact you have not bothered to get anything properly checked, should make the motor run a lot sweeter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
What checks did you use on the parts for this engine? And why no mention of fitting hardened seats?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
I do find it surprising that the OP feels that measuring and adjusting the combustion volumes, and polishing the crowns of what look like shoddy far eastern pistons, is suggestive of blueprinting?

What he has done will certainly help a road machine run a bit smoother, but not fitting hardened valve seats, and failing to properly check parts such as the rods, are not things that I think should be overlooked on any fairly high standard rebuild on one of these old motors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Ok, but still feel it would have been a very good idea to have fitted hardened seats, and posted pics of how to go about checking the rods, as many people dont know how to do this, and a how to covering it would have been quite helpful.

Are you quite finished shitting on the guy? Seriously? You have mentioned checking the rods. You have mentioned The hardened valve seats. It's been noted several times. Get over yourself and let him do it.
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:19 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twin-shocker View Post
Ok, but still feel it would have been a very good idea to have fitted hardened seats, and posted pics of how to go about checking the rods, as many people dont know how to do this, and a how to covering it would have been quite helpful.
Feel free to put that together and post it for everybody's review any time you want.
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:44 PM   #56
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Can we get a mod in here to clear these dickheads out
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:49 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dewey V View Post
The seats that Triumph used in their aluminum heads are of a quite sufficiently hard alloy and do not need to be replaced in order to run unleaded fuel. They hold up just fine. The original equipment valves were quite soft both at the seat area and the tip. Quality aftermarket valves with bronze guides in combination with the oem seats live quite a happy life on modern unleaded. This is years of experience talking, not theoretical bullshit.
Now I have a question for you. How long have you been building engines?
I can confrim this from direct experience. My '66 Bonneville has the original valve seats and I've been riding it for decades on unleaded fuel, including a cross country USA trip. Valve seats are still just fine.

Bob
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:25 PM   #58
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I hate to pile on, but shouldn't that barrel be silver instead of black? All the factory photos show a silver barrel-I suppose they wanted it to look like it was an alloy one like the racers.


jeep44 screwed with this post 10-18-2013 at 05:37 PM
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:13 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeep44 View Post
I hate to pile on, but shouldn't that barrel be silver instead of black? All the factory photos show a silver barrel-I suppose they wanted it to look like it was an alloy one like the racers.
It would have depended on what parts were on hand the day the bike was built. It was common practice (across all industries, well into the 1980's) to ignore cosmetics when necessary in order to keep the line running.
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Old 10-18-2013, 07:09 PM   #60
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Triumph wasn't that sloppy. And anyway, if the factory specification was for a silver barrel, why wouldn't you do it that way now? (unless that's the way the owner of the engine the OP is rebuilding wants it)



Of course, I should talk, because the barrel on my '67 T100R has been black since at least the late '80s, when I rebuilt the engine following a holed piston-I didn't know any better then,and had no reference photos. If I can ever clear out some of these projects in my garage that are in line before it, I'll remedy the situation, along with replacing the twin-carb head. The bike looks good now, and runs great,so it's pretty low-priority.

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