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Old 11-29-2013, 08:23 AM   #31
Kawidad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homerb View Post

Also, my new front wheel arrived today, finally from the US.

Trouble is, I cocked up big time. I thought the rim was alloy, only when I unwrap it, its chromed steel and weighs a bloody ton.
Still, Ive ordered new bearings so I can used the 20mm Versys axle in it and I'll use it until I find something more suitable.
I've still got to drill and tap 5 holes in the blank side to fit the second disc, and make some adaptor plates out of 8mm alloy so I can fit the 6 hole 300mm Versys discs to the 5 hole sportster hub.
The HD stuff is all really heavy and overbuilt. You should be able to lace up an alloy rim to save weight. IIRC, the spoke pattern is not a standard Japanese pattern, but is not all that unusual or hard to find replacements.

Also, the hub itself is really heavy, but I seem to recall reading of people who've chalked them in a lathe and took a bunch of material off to save weight without harming the strength too much, since they're so overbuilt.



BTW, Bart, you're bike is bloody brilliant.
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Old 11-30-2013, 02:33 AM   #32
Homerb OP
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Well, I had a good day today.
Yesterday my handlebar risers FINALLY arrived along with my new rear disc.
I got stuck in today and finished drilling and tapping the holes in the undrilled side of the front hub for the second disc.

Also cut two adapter plates out of 8mm aluminium plate and drilled and tapped them to allow me to fit the Versys front discs on the Sportster hub. Then had to sort out the spacers to centre the wheel in the forks.

Pretty happy with the end result! Fitted the front calipers and surprise, surprise, my calculations were spot on. Calipers positioned the correct distance from the discs and work well. Fitted the risers, handlebars and controls and adjusted everything to my taste.

Decided it was time to take this baby for a spin, so I did a couple of tentative laps around the block.

Got back and adjusted the handlebars, checked and tightened a few things and went for a good fifteen minute shake down ride. Brakes working well, bike tracks straight and true, so frame wasn't bent in the crash. Motor pulls really well, very happy with it.
Unfortunately it looks like my $35 R6 shock needs a rebuild or service as the rebound adjustment doesn't seem to be working in any position. No problem, I'll put the original shock back in tomorrow until I can get it seen to. Also need a stiffer spring as well if I'm going to use the Yammie shock.
Tomorrow I'm going to address the cosmetics, such as mount the ER6 taillight, refit all the trim and work out how I'm going to mount the instruments and the twin headlight fairing I'm going to use. Fun, fun, fun.

I've also got to figure out what I'm going to do about the ugly brackets and recesses on the tank that the cowlings would attach to. I could grind, fill and repaint, but I don't want to as the paint job on the tank is perfect as it stands.
I'm thinking about making some plastic panels in a contrasting colour, probably black, and fitting them in the recess, maybe using rare earth magnets or velcro. Time will tell.
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Old 12-04-2013, 02:42 AM   #33
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Well I got the taillight fitted, plastic trim pieces mostly in position, front mudguard on, and had to buy a dual headlight from the wreckers.


Wired it up and........works on lo beam but every time I hit hi beam fuse blows.

Now I'm an electrical moron, so it took me a good couple of hours to figure out the problem is that on the Versys, lo beam stays on when hi beam is on. Now with the original light, no problem, but with the dual headlights having both hi and low beams on together is overloading the headlight circuit, blowing the fuse.
Trouble is, I've got no idea how to modify the switch or wiring to switch off the lo beam when switching on hi beam. I told you, Im an electrical moron.
Any ideas??? I want to go riding tomorrow!
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Old 12-04-2013, 04:16 AM   #34
playsintraffic
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I would look at adding a relay. If you just want to be able to run one light at a time this should be pretty straight forward. If you want to run both on high beem that is going to be a little more work. Sorry I can't be more specific, but with out it in front of me it's hard to.
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Old 12-15-2013, 02:49 PM   #35
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I took the bike for a good ride last weekend and did a favourite loop of mine and included a a fair bit of dirt.
Most obvious shortcoming is the front suspension. Bottomed out a few times, through lack of travel/too much speed.
I looked at a front end swap briefly, then read about a mob in the US that sells internal kits that give about 200mm of travel. I looked into these kits, which supply longer springs and new damper rods and cartridges, for $1400usd!
Not happening at that price! I also read about a crafty Welshman who extended his fork travel by making some spacers for the bottom of his cartridges to get another 30mm travel.
So l got thinking. Ive got a pair of cartridge forks from an XLR250 Honda in the parts pile, so l pulled them apart, and the damper rods and cartridges are identical width to the Versys parts only longer.

I started wondering if l can use the Honda damper rods and cartridges to extend and improve the travel on the Versys. So l gave it a shot.
Well after a weekend in the shed, interrupted by frequent breaks to watch the poms losing the Ashes, l got it all together. I ended up mating the Versys damper rods and the XLR250 cartridges and shortened the Honda springs. I had to muck about with the shims to get the forks dampening evenly, and l removed the dampening adjuster from the right fork. Its was too hard to include it in the modifications. If l need to adjust the dampening I'll go old school and change the oil thickness. I had to block some small holes in the right fork valve gear and damper rod so l soft soldered them up so they'll be easy to unblock in the future if l need to.
Travel now is around 210mm!

My new longer legs.

Also got stuck into the painting last week and now the front fender and seat trim pieces match the tank.

Ive got some new V Strom handlebars to pick up and fit, mount the front fender and tidy up the instruments and headlights, also got to get the R16 shock I bought rebuilt and fitted and she's just about done.

Homerb screwed with this post 12-15-2013 at 03:19 PM
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:30 AM   #36
DustyRags
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BRILLIANT!

Maybe write up a how-to for others who want to do this?
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:41 PM   #37
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Its coming. Just ironing out a few bugs before final testing.
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Old 12-16-2013, 08:59 PM   #38
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Old 12-16-2013, 09:57 PM   #39
L.B.S.
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Awesome!

What bike are the headlights from, if I may ask?
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:13 AM   #40
Homerb OP
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Awesome!

What bike are the headlights from, if I may ask?
Sorry, no idea. The wrecker I bought them from thought maybe FZR Yamaha
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:05 AM   #41
L.B.S.
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Sorry, no idea. The wrecker I bought them from thought maybe FZR Yamaha

Close enough for my curiousity, no worries
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:08 AM   #42
Bart1
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Originally Posted by Homerb View Post
I also read about a crafty Welshman who extended his fork travel by making some spacers for the bottom of his cartridges to get another 30mm travel.
That was me, but I only live in Wales.

I really like what you have done here, the same thought about using a cartridge from another bike occured to me but I had nothing lying around so just modified what I had.

Brilliant job !!
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Old 12-18-2013, 06:21 PM   #43
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Sorry Bart, guess that makes you a crafty non-welshman!
Where abouts in Wales you live? I spent a bit of time there playing rugby years ago. Loved the hospitality!
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Old 12-18-2013, 08:48 PM   #44
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OK, so for anyone interested, here’s the details on how I increased the fork travel on my Versys.

I’d read an article, by a crafty non-Welshman, how its possible to get another 30mm or so by adding a spacer to the bottom of the damper tubes and using longer bolts to hold them in. As the Versys springs aren't very long, any more travel causes the short springs to bind on compression.

I read this and thought that longer springs might solve this problem.

I happened to have a set of XLR250 Showa cartridge forks laying about from a parts bike I bought last year.

I pulled the springs out of the forks, and bingo, they were the exact same diameter and pitch as the Versys springs and a lot longer.

On closer inspection, not only was the damper rod the same diameter, (10mm)with the same thread (10mm x 1mm) the cartridge tube was the same internal and external diameter, just a lot longer.


This got me thinking, what XLR parts could I use in the Versys to get more travel?

I removed the left Versys damper rod by removing the nut on the top, and prying the circlip out of the bottom of the cartridge.

Then I removed the valve body from the bottom of the cartridge and slid the damper rod out.

The right fork is different because the damper rod is actually a tube to allow for the dampening adjuster which runs inside it.

I removed the dampening adjuster completely as it’s too hard to get it to work on the longer fork, without making a whole new one.

The bottom of the right damper rod had 3 small holes drilled in it to allow for the oil flow when using the adjustment. I filled these three holes with soft solder, so it will be easy to remove if I ever want to return the forks to standard.

Also the right damper rod has an alloy stop halfway along it. Its held in place by a very small split ring. This needs to be removed.

Now to assembling it all.

First the left fork.

I cut the XLR spring to 390mm. The spring has a slight taper at the top. Cut the spring at the other end.

Now you need a way of limiting the travel to about 200mm or so. I originally cut a 60mm piece of steel tube and slid it over the dampening rod before I fitted it to the cartridge. This limited the travel well, but when lofting the front wheel there was an audible clunk as the forks hit the limit of extension. I removed the tube and decided to fit a couple of 60-70mm springs in its place. I found a set of old XR600 clutch springs in my junk box and fitted two springs to each damper tube to limit the travel and they are a perfect fit! Talk about luck. Clunk gone.
Heres the clutch springs fitted to the damper rod.

Now you can insert Versys damper rod into the XLR cartridge, then fit the XLR valve body into the bottom of the Versys damper tube with the treaded hole downwards. It fits perfectly. Refit the circlip.
Thread the 10mm nut onto the damper rod.
Heres all the bits ready to go together.

You can now fit the 390mm spring with the tapered end up.
I wasn't happy with the cut end of the spring, so I heated the last coil red hot, and flattened it with a hammer on a piece of steel so it would sit better on the cartridge. As soon as it was flattened I cooled it in water to retain the temper.
I did away with the original Versys spacer above the spring. I did however remove the plastic collar from the spacer and put it on top of the spring to centre it and allow the preload adjuster a flat smooth surface to spin on.

Fit the steel collar to the bottom of the cartridge and insert the assembly into the fork tube. Insert the 8mm socket head bolt into the hole in the bottom of the fork slider and tighten up. Make sure the copper sealing washer is in place.
Now is the time to add the fork oil.
Im still experimenting myself, but my starting point is 500ml of 10 weight oil in each fork.
I may adjust the quantity and/or weight to suit as I put some more miles on the bike. My initial feeling is 10 weight may be too light.
When adding the oil, go slowly as it takes time for the oil to flow down into the cartridge. Works the damper rod up and down at least 10 times until you can feel all the air is all gone from the cartridge. This may take some time. Take note of how much resistance is felt when working the damper rod up and down. Remember this resistance when assembling the right fork.
Now you can screw the fork cap on. There should be about 20mm of spring protruding above the top of the damper tube. You will have to push this down while screwing the cap on. I found it easier to get a 12mm spanner under the nut to hold it up while engaging the threads.
Tighten the cap against the locknut. You'll need a 14mm spanner for the locknut.
Left fork is done.
Right fork is the same with a few small variations.
When you add the oil to the right fork, bleed it and and work the damper rod up and down, the resistance should be similar to the left fork. In mine it was in intially way less. However, I had dismantled the valves on the end of the damper rods and may have got them mixed up. I suggest you leave them be until you check the resistance between the two forks. I think I ended up using the XLR valves on each Versys damper rod, but as I got them all mixed up I'm not sure. I do know that I now have equal resistance between the two forks. You may have to experiment.
The right fork goes together the same as the left.
The only real difference is that the hole in the top of the right fork cap, where the damper adjuster was, has to be blocked.
I cut about 15mm of 10mm bolt, cut a slot in one end and screwed it in from underneath the fork cap with a screwdriver. I also locktited it so it wouldn't leak.
Put it all back together and it should look like this.

Hope that was clear enough. Any questions feel free to fire away.




Homerb screwed with this post 12-18-2013 at 09:38 PM
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:59 AM   #45
Bart1
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Sorry Bart, guess that makes you a crafty non-welshman!
Where abouts in Wales you live? I spent a bit of time there playing rugby years ago. Loved the hospitality!
No worries at all, I am in West Wales almost by the sea, a good hour past Swansea.

Great write up, maybe it will inspire more people to do this.

Would I be right in thinking that basically you just swapped the V's 20mm cartridge tube with the longer Honda one and used the Honda valve at the bottom?
If so why not keep the rebound adjuster, perhaps I am missing something here ?

Re oil weights with my setup, ie with the V's valving I found that 7.5w was the lower limit, otherwise there was too litttle rebound damping.
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