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Old 10-29-2013, 03:37 AM   #16
wiggywildwildwest
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Location: Blackwater, QLD, Australia.
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it might pay to not be too hasty with removing the auto decomp. one of its functions is to help prevent kickback. people used to blame the auto decomp for their tendency to cough and stall at low speed. it seems poor carb design was more the culprit. ymmv i suppose.
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Old 11-03-2013, 07:33 PM   #17
empiredownhc OP
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Kenno, thanks for the link to the RAD gear....its nice but geez its pricey. That one might be going on the wish list for later down the track.

Wiggy, I haven't thought about removing the decomp at all. I'll run it as it is for now and see how she goes.

Again, thanks for all the feedback fella’s, it’s very encouraging. Keep in mind I don’t have the time, skill, knowledge or budget for a full on restoration. We’re just a backyard team tidying up this old girl. I have to mention my old man is giving me some great help in this build; another set of hands and another point of view is really helping me out. Not to mention the use of the shed space and collection of tools I otherwise don’t have. What a legend!

Anyway, here’s some progress we made this weekend.

So after getting the frame back from powder coaters (who did a very good job and I would recommend them) we could really hook in.

I knew after reading a few older posts in the 600/650L threads that I’d need to flush the frame of any sandblasting and coating debris.


I began by plugging up the frames oil storage, and ran about 250ml of kerosene into it. I let it sit a few minutes then gave it a good shake up, then let drain into a bucket. I repeated this around 3 times with the frame up right, then another 3 times with the frame upside down so the oil ‘tank’ was at the lowest point. I flushed thoroughly with water, then one last fill of kerosene to get rid of any water. I used compressed air to blast out any leftover liquids and let dry in the sun for a couple of hours.


You can see here the amount of crap that came out on the first and second flushes. Bit of a worry, but it came clean in the end.


Next was cleaning up the swing arm. I didn’t get an overall before shot, but this old girls through the wars. There’s some fairly bad grooves from letting the chain slipper wear though, in fact the chain slipper on it when I bought the bike was an offcut section of plastic.



Here you can see condition before and after.


It then got masked up and prepped for paint. I opted for painting the swinger over powder coating as I wasn’t sure on the tolerances for bearings etc. Perhaps I’ll see how the paint holds up and if not might look at coating this at a later stage.



After Paint, while my Dad worked on cleaning up the engine.




Even after several goes at degreasing and scrubbing she still looked a bit sad. I had read on here a few guys have gone down the path of acid washing and also a full soda or sand blast. I figured she’s all rebuilt and mechanically fine, I didn’t want to go tearing her down too much. A solid clean-up and fresh coat of paint should do the trick for now.
Remember, I’m doing all of this on a bit of a budget. It’s not a full on resto – just a backyard resto!


So once we masked up bits and pieces, into the custom spray booth it went (read; garden shed) and several coats of high temp aluminium finish engine enamel went on. A bit ‘silvery’ but generally much tidier!




While we waited for the engine to dry we set to work on installing the new steering head bearings and the triple clamps.



Then all the new swingarm bearings were loaded with grease and the swinger was installed.




The brakes need some real work. I’ve blasted them for now, but they’ll need a full overhaul. The rear piston is basically hanging out, and the seal is visible, and torn.


With the blasting cabinet running, we took the opportunity to clean up the remainder of the misc. bolts and brackets.



While we waited for some paint to dry, we set about cleaning out all of the threads on the powdercoated frame. While the powdercoating place did a good job, they did miss two or three threads.


With the engine dry and bolts all sorted we set about lifting the engine into the frame (very carefully). We masked the frame off, and laid cardboard on the frame rails and on the front down tube to prevent scratching. A few goes, a bit of sweat, and just a few swear words….and it went it in! Stoked!
We took the chance to step back and admire…and threw in the recently revived and polished Staintune headers for a photo!


The final work last night was looking at tidying up some of the wiring. The heatproof casing had perished. We’re looking at using some high pressure fuel line as a casing. Thoughts?

No updates from Teknik on the suspension yet...hopefully this week.

More updates again soon. Cheers!
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Old 11-03-2013, 07:51 PM   #18
Kenno
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Tensioner mod?

Just noticed this mod in your photo, it is not a standard item but is something I would do to guarantee no cam chain skip should the tensioner miss a grab under racing conditions.
I've never seen it done before.

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Old 11-04-2013, 02:51 PM   #19
empiredownhc OP
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Kenno,

Not sure what you mean there. That bolt you point out appears 'factory'?
Does your 600 not have it?

Scott.
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Old 11-04-2013, 04:44 PM   #20
Kenno
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Originally Posted by empiredownhc View Post
Kenno,

Not sure what you mean there. That bolt you point out appears 'factory'?
Does your 600 not have it?

Scott.
Hi Scott,

It's not factory and not part of the HRC mods either and none of my 4 XR's have it.
I googled it and found that some folks have done it to stop the cam chain skipping teeth when the chain gets worn and the tensioner fails.
You would need to make sure it is backed off in order to remove and replace your cam in future.
I would be suspicious about the cam chain wear because of the mod before your big trip, maybe ask the previous owner if he did it to take up slack and if he did it then throw a new cam chain in there.
When you get to the cam chain point I have some photo's to show you how to see if your chain is worn or good without removal but you would need the valve cover off.

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Old 11-04-2013, 07:13 PM   #21
empiredownhc OP
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You are right Kenno. Thanks for pointing this out otherwise I would never have noticed it. Very keen eyes you have there.

A bit of googling and I've come to find info below:

http://www.4strokes.com/forums/topic...TOPIC_ID=16261

I'll piece together the rest of the bike as I've planned, but I'll definitely come back to this once its on the road.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:16 PM   #22
wiggywildwildwest
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i'd say it's the best possible time to put in a camchain. slip the motor back out and whip the cover off. use a genuine chain. then you know it's going to be ok.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:57 PM   #23
veetwo _tls
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Location: FNQLD innisfail/SOUTH OZ murray bridge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by empiredownhc View Post
Thanks for all the great feedback everyone.

I'd be keen to hear a bit more about this! I've heard of it being done before. It might begin to make what started out as a simple build WAY more complicated though! I'd be very interested to see any photo's of that setup you had veetwo _tls, it sounds pretty wild.


Cheers again,

Scott.
all the same bike just different stages of mods


1993: bordertown Sth Oz - day before a days ride along the border line run & back.









1995: Mt gambier with the 630 Kit.







2007: day i sold it with 400,000+ klms on it from new.









MODS:

HONDA XR630RN 1992:

ballard supplyed -630Hi-comp je piston , 2 x base gaskets for running pump fuel , hrd valve kit , corrillo rod , mild cam , head tidy'd up , oil pump mod , keihn 40mm flat slide , duel hella 10" 200w , 200w stator & custom heavy duty loom done by beta bikes , accerbis 24ltr tank , castex race development o/size stainless headers , barret carbon muffler (first carbon fibre one made for xr600), k&n , eibach shock , eibach fork springs , custom seat (center filled) & cover , mach cycle computer , renthal twin walls , bar raisers & grips , chain gang sprockets , chain gang disc's , did x-ring gold , stainless braid brake lines.

Home made: crank case oil/air seperator breather , shark fin , checker alloy bash plate , alloy r/brake res-guard , light guard/wind deflector & holden trans cooler modded for a oil cooler.




rebuilds:
top end at every 30K & top & bottom end at every 60K






best bullet proof bike ever had so far for living out in the bush.




.
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:12 AM   #24
veetwo _tls
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jump on the net search all bike wreckers in citys give a call for the NX650 rear wheels.


ADB with the 1992 or 93 safari bikes ?
had all the mods about the 650 starter , flywheel , NX650 rear wheel , carb mods , oil pump mod etc etc





then after that was the ballard's XR640 ? 650 ? thumper nat bike with XR400 rear & tank







my new XR like 2 x XR630's in one chassis




.
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Old 11-14-2013, 07:19 PM   #25
empiredownhc OP
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Veetwo_tls, they are some awesome machines you have there. Good inspiration to get my old girl back on the road and ready for adventure.


Wiggy, I've thought for a while about the cam chain. I will check it next time my mechanic mate is down in Sydney...he's on the ball with that sort of stuff. Mentioned the manual tensioner Kenno spotted to Nick Dole and he seems to think they were common and not a bad idea - and mentioned he will probably run a manual tensioner on his project bike. That leaves me feeling pretty good about it - had me worried for a while.

Anyway, updates in the last week or so:
We’ve made good progress and the bike is slowly getting re-assembled. We’ve run into a few small issues that required some special orders – tank rubber / insulation above top frame tube, wiring insulation to run town main frame, washers for chain slider and a few others.
I tried to fit up some old tapered handlebars I had lying around, along with some universal adaptors however it wasn’t to be as the adaptors appeared to be different diameter to the bars themselves. I have settled on the standard size 7/8 bars for now – Pro-Tapers in a Henry /Reed bend. At least the cables all reach.
We fitted all new cables (Clutch, Throttle and Decompression Lever).
The clutch perch I had on the bike was broken. I had a spare universal easy pull perch and lever and it’s come up really nice with the new cable. Fingers crossed the clutch will hold up for a while.


This photo shows the decomp cable all in place, new spark plug cap and plug, new exhaust studs and the high pressure fuel line that we’re routing the wiring in. We might replace it with the genuine heat reistant material once it arrives as the fuel line wont fit into the plastic bracket that holds it and the oil line against the frame.


We ended up going for a new airbox. The old one was hacked up and had a few unessesary holes drilled into it.


We’re routing all the cables properly now, but getting them all into place in this photo after we re-wrapped and re-soldered some dodgy splicing that took place over the last 20 years. You can also see where we started to fit up the frame accessories (stand, peg mounts etc) as well at the gear shifter, brake pedal etc. A bit of work went into getting the brake pedal feeling ‘tight’ again, trying a few different shims and washer to space it out and getting it feeling new again.


Carby cleaned and back in place. Choke lever still broken – it’ll have to do.


We threw the muffler on to check everything cleared with the new airbox in place. You can see part of the updated chain guard as well. Also new grease nipples to the linkages and swing arm.


Trial fit of the new plastics. US model rear guard doesn’t have the light cut-out. I’m going to run a different setup on the numberplate holder, tail and brake though anyway. The flat rear guard adds to a smoother finish.


Case saver fitted. Sprocket all cleaned up, gear lever straightened and painted. Sprocket cover is being modified to fit over this for legalities and registration.


Rebuilt the throttle housing: It is a little worn with the ‘pull’ side cable hole a little more elongated than it should be. A good clean and grease and fresh coat of paint to seal it all back up.


Some goodies arrived in the post today from XRs Only. Awesome shipping…California to Sydney in 7 days. Very Happy.
I’ve picked up the rebuilt shock and fork from Tekniks. Nick showed me a project XR he’s working on too….that sounded exciting. Will get the springers fitted up on the weekend. It’s all coming together now.

More updates soon.
Scott.
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Old 11-18-2013, 05:35 PM   #26
empiredownhc OP
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Predicament

I need some input guys. Over the last few nights we’ve reassembled a lot of the bike. In doing so, we’ve now got the wheels on.
Here’s where the predicament begins:
Originally I went out of the way to throw new wheel bearings in it, but couldn’t fit the rear ones as the RHS bearing was seized – got local bike mech to sort it out, and being the top bloke he is – sorted it with minimum fuss, even making a spacer to fill the space where the bearing was so seized it was spinning in the hub :s.
Now, the wheels are in, and a quick check (I probably should have looked harder before I stripped it all down) and the wheels are buckled and flat spotted – ridable, but not nice, and the front disc is fairly warped.
What do I do?
Chase down another set of rims, and a new disc?
Go the whole hog and a new set of wheels $ ??
I’d like to throw a cush drive on it eventually, but didn’t plan on spending that much so soon.
Advice?

Cheers guys.
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Old 11-26-2013, 02:04 AM   #27
Kenno
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rim

I'd just throw an excel rim onto your old hub and keep going to keep costs down, excel rims are quite cheap and down the road a bit you can buy the rad cush and swap them over, just make sure to use a good anti sieze on the spoke threads so you can re-use them.
I do my own wheels but it's a bit like whittling wood and needs patience, I have a few bikes so I bought a cheap balancer($135) for lacing, truing and balancing.
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Old 11-27-2013, 05:52 AM   #28
dbarale
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Find someone who can try to true them by adjusting the spokes before you make a decision on replacing them. Amazing what a good trueing can do. Someone familiar with bicycle wheels may be able to help you, same process, larger scale.
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:14 AM   #29
Roadracer_Al
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If you're truly set on a cush drive, have a look at a DR650 rear hub. They should be cheap and plentiful at your local breakers/junkyard/eBay.

If you purchase the DR wheel, plan to replace the rim & spokes -- they are 17" from the factory, 18" gives a much better selection of tires, AND will net you a proper straight wheel.

You may need to source a rear brake caliper & hanger to fit the rear disk most easily, as well.

Regarding the front wheel: warped rotors get trashed. Period. They are too thin to turn or grind flat, and besides, they are part of the most important system on the bike. Going fast is fun but optional.... stopping is crucial.
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Old 01-20-2014, 12:35 AM   #30
empiredownhc OP
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Updates (December 2013)

Ok folks, so after a very busy Christmas period and not updating the build up for a while. Here goes the latest:


We retro-fitted a universal speedo to the standard mounting, which will do fine for the blue slip and down the track I plan on getting a digital unit with a few more functions. I’ve ‘borrowed’ the nice mirrors from my Husky.


I bit the bullet and got some new discs: RHK Quake wave discs Front and Rear. Nice.


A few of the Genuine Honda parts order. Oil return line, tank rubbers.


A beaut fork brace – billet. From RSW Racing in the states.


Nice new valve covers. You may have noticed the chipped one in previous photos.


I forget to take a step back every now and again to realise the overall progress – often getting caught up in the detail. After an afternoons work we could really see it coming together.


The Staintune headers had seen better days. We scrubbed, buffed and polished these guys to get them like this. Not bad eh!? New copper exhaust seals and new studs with anti-seize. You can also see the back of the cut down CR front guard here too.


Rear wheel assembly back together. New Disc. New Pads, Calliper sand blasted, cleaned then clear coated. Then rebuilt with new seals and polished pistons. Braided line. New wheel bearings.


Universal heated grips, new grips, and new donuts. Gotta figure out power for a accessories. Will tackle that later!


We got a new headlight and shroud from the states. I really like the look of it – keeping it original. Main problem is (didn’t think before ordering) US model is not road compliant so no high/low beam. Looking to retro fit H3 or H4 globe into that fitting. Might be interesting. Also threw on new JET barkbusters.


Here you can see the front brake master cylinder. Had a few drama’s getting this thing to bleed up. Full treatment on the caliper as per the rear. Braided line. New Disc. Borrowed an air powered ‘suction’ bleeder to get it happening, great invention.


Easy pull clutch perch. New cables. Heated grips LHS.


Shock in. Chainguard on. New braided line. You can see one of the new gussets we added here too.


I threw the rack on for a trial fit, and to figure out what to do with number plate locating, tail light etc.


While we re-wired the front end and tried to figure out a lighting solution I got to planning a custom dash to hold a few switches, a 12v cig socket for charging etc. Here we are getting ideas.


All of the wiring has been re-sleeved in a plastic tube/shielding. All non-factory connections have been tidied up with waterproof connections as well.



Here’s the ‘final’ colution for the number plate/tail light/blinker set up. Again, borrowing from the Husky, I got some nice blinkers. LED light from Supercheap Auto. Not bad I reckon.


We tidied up the rear end wiring too. We’ll tuck this away eventually – but just to show how we’re keeping it neat!


Progress on the dash.


And yes, here we are getting excited. First lot of oil since the pull down.



And finally a test fit up of the new outfit – shrouds, tank, headlight, windscreen.


We fitted up the tank the next day, checked oil levels and decided we’d see if she started. This is actually the first time my father heard it run…
Once we had the tank and everything on, we turned the fuel tap on only to see fuel flowing from the overflow. A stuck float bowl? That’s what we figured at first. We eventually got it sorted – took it off, stripped and cleaned again. Inspected the jets (#155 and #62) I’ll double check that…
But eventually she sparked up, only about 5 meaningful kicks actually. Used the old XR technique from back in the 250 days –and also the kill switch, full throttle and decomp in to clear it trick. Worked every time.

As you can see in the short clip I overlooked a couple of things, so may look like a bit of a goose in the clip (left choke on!)….but hey we were all excited to hear her fire up.
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