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Old 10-28-2013, 03:41 AM   #16
Laconic
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36 of those blocks? It should be a lot of fun getting all of those level with each other.
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:25 AM   #17
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36 of those blocks? It should be a lot of fun getting all of those level with each other.
Oh, if I follow through on moving my shed I'm using only 20 blocks, not 36. I think 36 is a stupid number.

Fortunately the blocks don't have to be level with each other. That's where the 4x4 posts come in. And I figure on leveling the platform on the four corners, then put the rest of the uprights in. Then I'll set the shed on top of the platform. (I'm trying to figure out a way to move and lift the shed without spending $300 on a roadable forklift.)
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:25 AM   #18
Ricardo Kuhn OP
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Do you have a truck you can use to get some gravel or crushed rock? Actually you could just load up some cheap rubbermaid tubs or buckets in a car. anyway, what I would do:

clear your spot down to flat bare ground, try not to overdig- you ideally want to go onto undisturbed soil.

Spread out a few inches of gravel

Build your shed on skids: 6x6 or 6x8 or 8x8 pressure treated fir. You'll want them running the 15' direction. If you bevel the bottoms of the ends, it would make your shed easier to relocate later by pulling it with tractor or truck or come along.

Then run your 2x6 in the 8' direction, with 2x6 rimjoists sitting on the outside of the skids, then ply that over with a 3/4 ply (osb is ok for the sidewalls, but either use cdx ply or something like advantech osb for the floor, where water might sit).

Around here, if I made something like that I would use pressure treated 2x6 for the floor framing. SLC is probably a cold/dry climate where you could get quite a long life out of standard framing lumber, especially with the gravel to keep things drained.

I think the big pressure treated timbers might cost a little more than the precast blocks, but it eliminates having to use any of the posts and beams, and the building will go much, much faster.
That sounds very simple to do, except I forgot to mention the patio is on a incline (about 1 1/2' drop in 8') so it needs to be mounted solid since every inch is different and the whole thing can slide downwards if I'm not careful..
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:26 AM   #19
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36 of those blocks? It should be a lot of fun getting all of those level with each other.
Yeah I know may as well make it 72 and cover the little gaps in concrete..
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:32 AM   #20
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That sounds very simple to do, except I forgot to mention the patio is on a incline (about 1 1/2' drop in 8') so it needs to be mounted solid since every inch is different and the whole thing can slide downwards if I'm not careful..
You may be better served by getting out the posthole digger and casting wire-reinforced cylindrical piers. You'll have to get past the frost line once you start digging, though.
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Old 10-28-2013, 09:48 AM   #21
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You may be better served by getting out the posthole digger and casting wire-reinforced cylindrical piers. You'll have to get past the frost line once you start digging, though.
I was trying to avoid this approach if possibles since I don't trust my measuring/digging skills and the concrete do give me a little wiggle room just in case I mess up a little....
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:45 PM   #22
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Oh, if I follow through on moving my shed I'm using only 20 blocks, not 36. I think 36 is a stupid number.

Fortunately the blocks don't have to be level with each other. That's where the 4x4 posts come in. And I figure on leveling the platform on the four corners, then put the rest of the uprights in. Then I'll set the shed on top of the platform. (I'm trying to figure out a way to move and lift the shed without spending $300 on a roadable forklift.)

That all sounds good, in theory. I can tell you from experience (bitter experience) that it's not that easy. Every one of those 4x4 posts will have to be perfect, otherwise you'll have a clusterfuck on your hands. The blocks have imperfections that will cause your posts to not be plumb. Also, because the blocks have a hole where the posts go, you can't just slip them in and out like it might seem. 4x4 posts sitting in those pockets don't offer any lateral stability, either.

This is a plastic, 15x8 shed? What does the floor structure look like? You might be better served to set 3 stringers on concrete piers opposite the floor structure and just drag the shed up onto it with a tractor, comealongs, etc..., it can't be that heavy.

Or, since it's plastic, grade the area, put down some crusher run and set the shed right on the ground.
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Old 10-28-2013, 01:34 PM   #23
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The OP's shed is plastic. Mine's wood, and whoever set it didn't put any supports down the middle, so it sags. It'll take awhile to un-sag after it is moved. I also have a slope, but I don't think mine is as steep as the OP's.
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Old 10-28-2013, 02:16 PM   #24
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Oh, got mixed up, too many sheds.

Anyway, I'd stay away from those pier blocks.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:16 PM   #25
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I sat both of my sheds on railroad ties.The one is over 20 yrs old now and a few years ago I pulled it off the ties to repaint it and put a new roof on it and the ties were still in good shape.Hooray for creosote.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:36 PM   #26
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I sat both of my sheds on railroad ties.The one is over 20 yrs old now and a few years ago I pulled it off the ties to repaint it and put a new roof on it and the ties were still in good shape.Hooray for creosote.
This is what I would do. Cheap, effective. If the shed settles over time, jack up the low spot and shim it. I think y'all are overengineering the project-it's a plastic shed, not a house.
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Old 10-28-2013, 03:53 PM   #27
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I've built a couple of sheds on supports that I made myself using a 5 gallon drywall bucket as a form, Sacrete mixed in a wheelbarrow, and four sticks or re-bar in each. I used PT 4x4 for posts. Just make sure the surface where each support is placed is level. These buildings tend to move a little over a winter, but not nearly as much as a sonotube. You can re-level by shimming if low or simply jumping on the high spot. A water level should help you get within "close enough" for this application. They're reasonably cheap to buy, or you can make your own. Everything I did had a pier at 4' on center, and it worked out fine.
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Old 10-28-2013, 04:09 PM   #28
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You may be better served by getting out the posthole digger and casting wire-reinforced cylindrical piers. You'll have to get past the frost line once you start digging, though.
^ This. Rent an auger from HD. The one on a trailer ideally, no reaction torque to rip your arms off. Cast an anchor bolt into each one and use a galvanized metal post/beam support. You can shim under these as necessary.
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:23 PM   #29
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First, a 15x8 plastic shed? Who makes it? Do you have a link?

Secondly, I'm with Slackmeyer. If you don't want to dig holes and use Sonotubes, and have something you can pick up and move, the skids are the way to go (most commercial built sheds use them). I built a lightweight 4'x6' chicken coop and put it on four solid concrete blocks (the type they put under oil tank legs), 3 are fine, one continuously sinks.
It won't sink or frost heave with the skids (do you have frost in SLC?).
Also, If you get a woodchuck digging below your shed, you can easily move the shed to make it easier to, erm, evict it.
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:45 PM   #30
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First, a 15x8 plastic shed? Who makes it? Do you have a link?
Sorry here is the link to the
Lifetime shed..


Quote:
Secondly, I'm with Slackmeyer. If you don't want to dig holes and use Sonotubes, and have something you can pick up and move, the skids are the way to go (most commercial built sheds use them). I built a lightweight 4'x6' chicken coop and put it on four solid concrete blocks (the type they put under oil tank legs), 3 are fine, one continuously sinks.
It won't sink or frost heave with the skids (do you have frost in SLC?).
Also, If you get a woodchuck digging below your shed, you can easily move the shed to make it easier to, erm, evict it.
I sincerely don't see the need to move the shed plus is not like I can get a "tractor" in the garden hell not even a crane since we have a bunch pf high voltage wires above the patio, on the other side I do like the idea of a continues foot print to spread the load even better, but I'm afraid the whole thing will slide downwards..

For sure to many options to think about..
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