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Old 11-06-2013, 07:06 AM   #1
mouthfulloflake OP
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Toyota 22re Broken rocker arm and now head bolt

1989 4runner

son said it made a bad noise and was low on power, he limped it home.

removed plugs 1-3 look perfect, plug #4 is sooty

compression test 155 in all 4 holes.

remove valve cover, see Ex valve rocker arm for cyl #4 is broken, cam looks fine.

in an attempt to remove the Rocker arm assembly one of the head bolts snapped just below the surface of the rocker arm support tower.

now I cant remove the rocker, cant remove the cylinder head..

wtf? any ideas?

the rusty hole is the broken head bolt, its soaking in PB blaster although I think that to be a futile attempt.
and yes I know its sludged up, I will put it back together with a much hotter thermostat.



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Old 11-06-2013, 07:58 AM   #2
30Bones
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My hack mentality would say to try an air hammer on the broken stud to free up the bond between the dissimilar metals. Also I have read that 1/2 and 1/2 acetone and ATF is a great penetrating oil

Are your plans to just get it back on the road cheap as possible or do you want to to a complete top end, cam, timing chain (use metal guides), water pump, etc. (better while it's off)

http://www.engnbldr.com/ is a great guy and will talk your ear off. I used his YEARS ago on my 22RE rebuild for my rockcrawler.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:12 AM   #3
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I put the enginebuilder timing set with metal guide and cover in about.... 5 years ago.

Id like to get back running as quickly and cheaply as possible ( it is my 16 year old sons daily driver now)

I am wondering now WHY did the rocker arm break, so I probably need to remove the head and see.

my initial plan was to simply remove the rocker arm assembly, and replace the one rocker arm before the head bolt snapped.

an air hammer might help.
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:29 AM   #4
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I think it needs a good cleaning anyway
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Old 11-06-2013, 08:48 AM   #5
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My method of cleaning is to block the radiator with a pizza box and drive it around town in low range for a while then change the oil.

I need to put a much hotter thermostat in there apparently.

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Old 11-06-2013, 08:52 AM   #6
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Run some ATF in with the oil, the detergent will break that crud free, but likely clog a passageway
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Old 11-06-2013, 11:02 AM   #7
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Some heat on that stanchion might help.
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Old 11-06-2013, 11:12 AM   #8
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I was afraid it would catch on fire, with all of that oil sludge, but you are right Tim, I will clean it up and heat it and see if that helps any.

thanks for the input
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:15 PM   #9
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so why can't you remove the rocker assby? whats holding it (hard to see through the goo). once the bolts are off the whole works should just lift away right?

anyway, I would get the rocker shafts off whatever it takes, including a cut off wheel if needed (replacement parts are cheap). then weld a nut to the stub with the MIG. you find a nut that lets see the stub through the hole. start welding from the stub to the nut, then hit it with the impact before it cools too much.
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:34 PM   #10
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Hey Beezer,

down in that rusty hole, about .375" down in there is where the bolt broke, and its stuck/rusted/corroded to that support tower of the rocker assembly.

i can lift the front two corners of the rocker assembly, but not the rearward portion because of that corroded bolt.

so your idea is to sacrifice the rocker assembly ( about $200 aftermarket) to try and get to the bolt without removing the cylinder head.

which MIGHT work
but that thing wasnt budging with a 1/2 drive ratcher and a cheater handle ( when it snapped)
I cant imagine being able to weld anything on it, or any type of vice grip that could put MORE rotational force on it?

but if its only corroded in the rocker support, then maybe the bottom half would spin.. but I am guessing it goes through a water passage in the head, and thats where the corrosion stems from.
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Old 11-06-2013, 12:47 PM   #11
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My guess is rust between the dissimilar metals over XX years of sitting in what looks like a poorly maintained old engine (no jabs below the belt meant)

soak it, heat it, soak it some more, heat it some more. Eventually it will break free. The hard part is getting leverage since you are banking on that rocker assembly breaking free by twisting it side to side. No easy task and I do not envy you. I would start searching for a used complete head to rape parts off of
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Old 11-06-2013, 01:39 PM   #12
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ok crazy idea..

what if I take a cutoff wheel.

cut that rocker arm free, ground enough of it off to get to the broken stud.
remove rocker assembly ( replace with used)

put the damn thing back together, with 9 of the 10 head bolts?

ive read many accounts of this exact same thing happening, that #8 bolt thru the water jacket, gets corroded all the way down to the block.

people use cherry pickers to try and get the head off, the water jacket is in the head, so the entire length of that bolt is likely siezed to the head.

ok..

obviously not the best idea, worst case is, it puts some coolant in the oil ?
then I know I have to tackle removing the head.

but I mean if its siezed that good now? maybe it will remain sealed for a while?

what do i have to loose at this point?
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Old 11-06-2013, 01:49 PM   #13
30Bones
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I say go for it and report back. It's been a long time ago, but I recall my head bolts being a PITA and crusty as well.

Cut a slit in the rocker arm vertically and leave that head bolt alone. If this works drive the truck into the ground
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:30 PM   #14
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I can contact his guy if you wish and play middle man. Cheap parts I would guess if you get to that point

http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/foru...09.0;topicseen
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Old 11-06-2013, 02:40 PM   #15
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Thanks 30Bones!

I think ive sourced a complete head locally for $50

Plan is to use this part of it, after i cut mine for removal.

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